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I HATE PINHOLES

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rv9jim(at)juno.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:06 am Post subject: I HATE PINHOLES

Poly fiver is the supplier of "Smooth Prime"



Jim

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Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 1:28 pm Post subject: I Hate Pinholes

You can get "Smooth Prime " from Aircraft Spruce.  Look in the  fibreglas 

section of their catalog - not in paint & primer.

Mix it in small (2 oz.) or so batches, it goes a long way and is too  

expensive to waste.

Prepare for a snow storm in the shop,it sands off in lots of white  stuff.

 

 

Bob Olds RV-4  , N1191X

A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor

Charleston,Arkansas

Real  Aviators Fly Taildraggers

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rv9jim(at)juno.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 4:11 pm Post subject: I HATE PINHOLES

Hi Jeff

        You sand the first coatings down to the base material after

letting it dry for 6 to 8 hours.  Then reapply another 3 to 5 coats and

let it dry over night.  In the morning, sand it down again. With the

black lacquer misted over the coating before you sand, the black lacquer

will indicate where you have a low area.  Continue this way until you

have the surface that you want.  I had some areas on my Europa  that

required some extra filling so I probably coated some areas 5 or 6 times

to bring it to the level and finish I wanted.  I used a random orbital

sander to knock the smooth prime down.  It comes off quickly with 180

grit (? if I remember- its been 4 years ago).  It will be pin hole free

and look great.  As I mentioned before, when you reach the end, let it

dry completely.  At that point, you can put the primer coat on for the

paint you have chosen. There are many primer/fillers but most of them are

solvent  based.  The smooth prime is water based which is great.  Only

required the stink paint primer once with a small bit of sanding and then

on to the colors---

Jim

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rv9jim(at)juno.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 4:20 pm Post subject: I HATE PINHOLES

Jeff,

        Yes, the black lacquer is the indicator for low and hi spots.  If

you are doing straight areas, then a sanding board will keep things flat.

Other than that, I used a small mouse pad like foam pad that I used

sticky back sanding paper attached to do the curvy portions.  Some times,

fingers were necessary in some small areas.  Its not all that bad. 

considering I'm trying to bend the da-- frame on my slider to match the

curvature of the fuselage.  Now that is (at)%

*$#(.   I decided to slit the

square tubing in several places to get it to be in shape and then get it

welded back.  

Jim

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khorton01(at)rogers.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 5:42 pm Post subject: I HATE PINHOLES

On 22 Jan 2006, at 19:08, James H Nelson wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Hi Jeff

         You sand the first coatings down to the base material after

 letting it dry for 6 to 8 hours.  Then reapply another 3 to 5 coats  

 and

 let it dry over night.


	


How accurate do you need to be when you mix the two parts of the  

Smooth Prime?  The directions make it seem like you need to be very  

precise, which doesn't seem easy if you do many batches.

Kevin Horton         RV-8 (finishing kit)

Ottawa, Canada

http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8

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deruiteraircraftservices(
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:42 am Post subject: I HATE PINHOLES

Akzo Aerospace Finishes does a product called "static conditioner". It's a 

white milky thick liquid that is applied by brush in circular motions or by 

squeegee. Let it dry for about an hour and remove excess by scotchbrite. Do 

not use blown gun but use a tackrag. Then apply a coat of Laminar X500 

surfacer which will seal in the static conditioner and provide a real hard 

surface to sand or paintprep on so that one doesn't sand into the fibers of 

the cloth. Maybe not cheap, but fast and effective. It's used among other on 

Boeing and Bombardier compositesamong other applications.

The static conditioner is applied straight out of the tin, just stir before 

use. A litre of each should be sufficient for both cowlings and the roof 

(RV10) and wingtips



If you use any other filler, make sure it's in near liquid state so that the 

product can be either forced into the pinhole or run into it. If not, the 

product will "bridge" the hole and when you ssand open up again, with the 

added bonus of eventually damaging the fibers by repeating the procedure a 

number of times.



For effective filling, use a crosscoat system,similar to when you're 

spraying.

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rv9jim(at)juno.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 6:49 am Post subject: I HATE PINHOLES

Kevin,

        I believe that Poly Fiber provides a measuring device to get the

correct blend.  I used a paint mixer on my drill to mix it completely. 

Then washed it off to keep it clean.  If you don't, it hardens and you

have to scrape it off.  (     I did my applications in small batches

to keep it from getting hard while applying.  I used Home despot for

trays and rollers to put the smooth prime on.

Jim

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