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henrysfork1(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 6:09 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Have been considering a change in oil. The engine is a four stroke air cooled and manufacturer suggests using an Automotive type engine oil meeting SAE SE grade or above. It also goes on to say MIL-L-46152B Spec. is recommended??? I have been using Aero Shell 15W-50 since the engine was new. Winter is coming and the Aero Shell is hard to turn the engine in the cold. That is the reason I am considering the change. I have been looking at the synthetics. I would very much appreciate your thoughts on this matter.
Thanks
Dee Young
N345DY Model II
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pwmac(at)sisna.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:18 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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What kind of engine?
15w50 is very heavy duty oil like I use in my diesel truck.
15w50 is used in air cooled airplane engines that run hot and have
significant oil thinning at the high temps.
What are your oil temps at the high end for a worst case senerio?
How does your oil temp look under the high temp situation?
Do you have a sealed RG battery?
In any event synthetic is better for high temps and cold cranking but
its use depends on the fuel you are using and how much you want to
spend for more frequent changes of the pricey oil.
Paul
=================
At 08:08 AM 9/10/2006, you wrote:
Quote: | Have been considering a change in oil. The engine is a four stroke
air cooled and manufacturer suggests using an Automotive type engine
oil meeting SAE SE grade or above. It also goes on to say
MIL-L-46152B Spec. is recommended??? I have been using Aero Shell
15W-50 since the engine was new. Winter is coming and the Aero Shell
is hard to turn the engine in the cold. That is the reason I am
considering the change. I have been looking at the synthetics. I
would very much appreciate your thoughts on this matter.
Thanks
Dee Young
N345DY Model II
Do not archive.
|
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lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:55 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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Dee,
The value in a full synthetic is the higher temps they can tolerate, the hit
is their inability to keep the lead residues in suspension. If you fly
strictly with car gas, the synthetic should be fine. If you occasionally
use 100LL then you might want to avoid synthetics. This from the Rotax oil
recommendation bulletin. The Rotax 912 series engines use the same oil in
the engine as well as the gear box so they recommend a motorcycle engine oil
with the gear additive. If your engine is similar, you might want to check
the Rotax owners association website for info.
Lowell
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henrysfork1(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:37 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> I burn 100LL all the time so that takes car of the synthetic idea. Thanks for the response Lowell
Dee
Do Not Archiv
[quote] ---
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kr2(at)earthlink.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 2:41 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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Hi Dee,I have just switched to a fully synthetic oil and I also fly using 100LL,I was so impressed with what I had heard from a friend of mine that I thought I would try it,today will be the first flight with the new synthetic oil..so I will keep you posted on the results.I am using mobil 1, 10w40
in my VW mosler engine.
[quote] ---
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kr2(at)earthlink.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 2:46 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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Lowel what do you think about running fully synthetic oil in an air cooled
VW engine using 100LL,........I hope this is ok because I am fly this
morning to fuel up again with 100LL,This will be the first flight using
synthetic oil..............
Quote: | [Original Message]
From: Lowell Fitt <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
To: <kitfox-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: 9/10/2006 12:08:14 PM
Subject: Re: Question on oil
Dee,
The value in a full synthetic is the higher temps they can tolerate, the
hit
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Quote: | is their inability to keep the lead residues in suspension. If you fly
strictly with car gas, the synthetic should be fine. If you occasionally
use 100LL then you might want to avoid synthetics. This from the Rotax
oil
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Quote: | recommendation bulletin. The Rotax 912 series engines use the same oil
in
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Quote: | the engine as well as the gear box so they recommend a motorcycle engine
oil
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Quote: | with the gear additive. If your engine is similar, you might want to
check
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[quote] the Rotax owners association website for info.
Lowell
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lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:25 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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Mark,
All I know about this subject is from the Rotax bulletin on preferred oils
and the Rotax seminars.
Synthetics are recommended by them for unleaded fuels only. When using
occasional leaded fuels they recommend a synthetic blend or full mineral if
using 100LL.
If you would like to read their bulletin on this, follow the links below to
the numbered bulletin. When I change oil, I wipe down the oil tank with a
papertowl and without fail, if I have been using 100LL as in a long cross
country, I get a pasty residue from the tank. It is light gray colored.
With the exception of the gear additive recommended by Rotax because the
engine oil also lubricates the gear box, I am comfortable with their general
recommendations for all four stroke engine types.
It would be good of course to have other data from other engine types to
eliminate the need to extrapolate.
http://www.rotax-owner.com/
SERVICE DOCUMENT RETRIEVAL SYSTEM
SI-18-1997 (2004)
SI-912-016 (2006)
Lowell
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pwmac(at)sisna.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:57 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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Mark,
The issue with Full syn is sludge buildup with the leaded gas. The
prudent thing to do is to change the oil frequently and open the
valve covers at each oil change and look for sludge. Also dissect
your oil filter for the same examination. All this was discovered by
Rotax for their 9 series 4 stroke engines. They recommend a part syn
oil with 100LL
Regards, Paul
================
At 04:40 AM 9/15/2006, you wrote:
[quote]Hi Dee,I have just switched to a fully synthetic oil and I also fly
using 100LL,I was so impressed with what I had heard from a friend
of mine that I thought I would try it,today will be the first flight
with the new synthetic oil..so I will keep you posted on the
results.I am using mobil 1, 10w40
in my VW mosler engine.
---
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pwmac(at)sisna.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:10 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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I have been querying the racer guys who use heavily leaded gas (much
more lead than 100LL) with full synthetic. They all complain about
the lead deposits but just change the oil every race. Then when the
engine need freshening up the get all the sludge out of the pan and
valve covers. The sludge is significant for the low budget guys since
they go longer between rebuilds. I have seen these the inside of
these long term engines and the sludge is unbelievable. The big buck
guys don't give a hoot and rebuild for every race. Most of the racers
still use the full syn for the better lube and high temp properties.
Conclusion Rotax is right on.
BTW Amsoil sells a part syn engine oil. So does Penzoil and
Valvoline. Probably a all are better than Mobile1 IMO. I hope this helps
Regards, Paul
====================
At 08:25 AM 9/15/2006, you wrote:
[quote]Mark,
All I know about this subject is from the Rotax bulletin on
preferred oils and the Rotax seminars.
Synthetics are recommended by them for unleaded fuels only. When
using occasional leaded fuels they recommend a synthetic blend or
full mineral if using 100LL.
If you would like to read their bulletin on this, follow the links
below to the numbered bulletin. When I change oil, I wipe down the
oil tank with a papertowl and without fail, if I have been using
100LL as in a long cross country, I get a pasty residue from the
tank. It is light gray colored. With the exception of the gear
additive recommended by Rotax because the engine oil also lubricates
the gear box, I am comfortable with their general recommendations
for all four stroke engine types.
It would be good of course to have other data from other engine
types to eliminate the need to extrapolate.
http://www.rotax-owner.com/
SERVICE DOCUMENT RETRIEVAL SYSTEM
SI-18-1997 (2004)
SI-912-016 (2006)
Lowell
---
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john(at)leptron.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:56 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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Group,
The place the sludge show up in a 912 is the oil cooler. I power flush my
oil filter on every change (35 hours) and use Honda motorcycle Simi
synthetic oil. I can see the lead as it is flushed out of the cooler. I
would never use full synthetic with av fuel.
John Oakley
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lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:13 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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John, thanks for the post. I have been observing a slight increase in oil
temps over the past year or so. This might be the reason. Another is that
I got tired of replacing the temp sending unit from Westach every six months
or so and built my own - in my opinion, they are junk. I did a cursory hot
water test and found it close, but should do it again for a more positive
check. I may be reading high, but running normally.
Lowell
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pwmac(at)sisna.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:51 am Post subject: Question on oil |
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John,
Very good point The oil cooler it the prime place for the lead
deposits and sludge. However the racers experience indicates the most
sludge inside the valve covers and sump.
Paul
============
At 09:55 AM 9/15/2006, you wrote:
[quote]
Group,
The place the sludge show up in a 912 is the oil cooler. I power flush my
oil filter on every change (35 hours) and use Honda motorcycle Simi
synthetic oil. I can see the lead as it is flushed out of the cooler. I
would never use full synthetic with av fuel.
John Oakley
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john(at)leptron.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 12:28 pm Post subject: Question on oil |
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Lowell,
The sludge in the oil cooler is a real thing. We did testing and like I said
you can see it pour out under pressure. I usually leave pressure on until I
see clear oil. After changing oil and filling up, I ad 10lbs of pressure to
the oil tank overflow, then pull the ball pressure relief and spring. I
reinstall the ball and spring while the oil is flowing, this gets rid of the
air bubbles that rotax has warned about. You may have to add some vibration
to the cooler to loosen up sludge. I also got tired of the Wasatch items and
replaced all with the unit from GRT.
John Oakley
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john(at)leptron.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 12:31 pm Post subject: Question on oil |
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Paul,
I have never seen sludge in the valve covers on the rotax, as I have in my
racing days. It may be due to the fact there ore not pockets to settle out
in. the sump is a great settle out spot as designed by the engineers....
John Oakley
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