chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
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 Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:14 pm Post subject: Using Alodine on an assembled aircraft was Re: Re: Iridite |
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Doug,
My suggestion for applying both the etch and the Alodine would be to purchase several small, "kiddie wading" pools. Also purchase a solvent spray gun from Snap On or Harbor Freight. Here is one very over priced idea.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=11586&group_ID=1544&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
I think I paid about $30 for this tool. Of course that was 30 years ago, but I still have it. Harbor Freight sells a much more reasonably priced item.
Put a pool under the area you want to etch. Add AlumiPrep (or similar) to the pool. Place the siphon tube into the pool. Connect your shop air hose to the sprayer. Spray the AlumiPrep onto the area (say the tail cone of your fuselage as an example) until it is clean. Most of the excess fluid will run back into the kiddie pool.
Remove the pool (with AlumiPrep) from under the area cleaned. Quickly rinse off the area with a garden hose. Slide another kiddie pool under the area. Add Alodine and repeat the process. Work by sections until you are done. Do this on a cloudy day or somewhere under shade if possible. Alodine, Iridite, DoradoKote, etc, are all photo chemically reactive. The sun ruins the chemicals. They will work the first day, but if used in strong sun light, will be useless the next day (assuming you don't finish in one day).
Just an idea and worth what you paid for it.
Charlie Kuss
[quote]--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
How would I alodine the outside skin prior to painting?
I am thinking of sloshing it on with a cloth rag from a bucket or is
there a better way?
Doug Gray
On Thu, 2006-09-14 at 12:18 -0700, chaztuna(at)adelphia.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
>
> Vini,
> Yes 1201 has a gold colored dye in it. The dye helps you determine when the part has been exposed to the chemicals for the correct amount of time. Alodine 1200 is clear, and therefore much harder for the beginner to use.
> I would suggest checking with businesses who sell chemicals for the plating trade (ie chrome plating, cadmium plating, anodizing, etc). My local supplier of MacDirmid's Iridite 14-2, is:
>
> Allied Plating Supply
> Hialeah, Florida
> USA
>
> Note that the company's name tells you that they sell plating supplies. Perhaps a Google search under PLATING SUPPLIES GERMANY would yield results?
> Good luck and let me know if you find a supplier.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> ---- Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com> wrote:
> > Charlie Thanks for info. I will try to contact Henkel in Germany, You say
> > Alodine 1201 is the product I need.
> > Vini
> >
> >
> > 2006/9/14, Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>:
> > >
> > > Try
> > > http://www.eldoradochem.com/conversion-coatings.htm
> > >
> > >
> > > *Vinod Wahi <vinod.wahi(at)googlemail.com>* wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Every body,
> > > This my first mail. I am first time builder, started with 9A emp. Can any
> > > one advise me where I can buy alodine powder in Germany.
> > > Thanks.
> > > Vini
> > >
> > >
> > > 2006/9/13, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com>:
> > > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> > > >
> > > > I may have some powdered alodine that I might be willing to part
> > > > with. I'd have to look up my original price to even have a guess
> > > > at it's value, but I'm sure I have enough to make a few gallons
> > > > anyway. Contact me off-list if you think you might be interested
> > > > and I'll try to figure out what quantity I have.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> > > > do not archive
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <
> > > > rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
> > > > >
> > > > > I also saw the same effect with the older solution. I keep it in a
> > > > 32
> > > > > gallon Rubbermaid trash can that doubles as the dip tank. As it
> > > > > approached 6 months old it was taking forever for it to convert a
> > > > layer
> > > > > on the aluminum. I guessed that it was mainly due to the chemicals
> > > > > precipitating out and was apparently correct. I added a couple
> > > > aquarium
> > > > > style circulating power heads and it was like new after that. Going
> > > > on
> > > > > 1.5 years on the same original batch and completed the majority of
> > > > parts
> > > > > on my RV-10. I also keep it covered and out of direct sunlight.
> > > > >
> > > > > Michael Sausen
> > > > > -10 #352 Fuselage
> > > > >
> > > > > --
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