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shilocom(at)mcmsys.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Sep 17, 2006 7:55 pm Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Does anyone have some pics or drawings with dimensions of the "airfoil" type empennage that I think was used on the Late model 4 and up? I think it was an option and used plywood ribs that were either bowed in like a symmetrical airfoil or maybe just bowed on top like the wing airfoil.
Also what was the Idea of using it as opposed to a "flat" surface on the empennage?
Was it used only on the horizontal and vertical stabs or did it include the rudder and elevator?
Is it still used today on the mod VII etc?
Blue Skies
Bob Unternaehrer
shilocom(at)mcmsys.com (shilocom(at)mcmsys.com)
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roncarolnikko(at)hotmail. Guest
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Posted: Sun Sep 17, 2006 8:40 pm Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Bob My Speedster has light plywood ribs in the stabs and elavator/rudder.
Non on the fuselage other than the wooden stringer along each side. Did
you ever get your valley redrive to work? Still tinkering with mine.
Ron NB Ore
Quote: | From: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom(at)mcmsys.com>
Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
To: "Kitfox List" <kitfox-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Airfoils on empanage
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 23:03:53 -0500
Does anyone have some pics or drawings with dimensions of the "airfoil"
type empennage that I think was used on the Late model 4 and up? I think
it was an option and used plywood ribs that were either bowed in like a
symmetrical airfoil or maybe just bowed on top like the wing airfoil.
Also what was the Idea of using it as opposed to a "flat" surface on the
empennage?
Was it used only on the horizontal and vertical stabs or did it include the
rudder and elevator?
Is it still used today on the mod VII etc?
Blue Skies
Bob Unternaehrer
shilocom(at)mcmsys.com
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lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:26 pm Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Bob,
The airfoil was not continuous across the Horizontal Stab - elevator, but
rather ribs that created a rough airfoil shape on the horizontal and
elevator separately converging at the tube diameters at the hinge line.
I created an overall airfoil shape largely due to ignorance as I had
purchased the trim tab cutout and didn't know how to create the room in the
horizontal stab for the servo and U-channel that was the hinge line at the
trim tab. I made the ribs of medium density foam with glass laminations on
the flats. The foam was 1/4" and there is a drawing on the Sportflight web
site of the gap seal design.
http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1041348095
Regarding the airfoil: There was talk on the Lancair list after a couple of
stall spin accidents where a suggestion was made that the elevator might
have stalled contributing to the inability of the pilot to recover from the
stall. I had never considered this, but the suggestion was made by several
of the gurus on that list that a properly designed airfoil would reduce the
tendency of the elevator to stall.
Lowell
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barry(at)pgtc.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 1:48 am Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Bob, it was an option on IV when I bought my kit in about 1996 and I didn't buy the option. I recall it was simply some ribs that formed bottom and top of the horizontal and both side of the verticle. I'm sure it was for drag reduction and also pretty sure it helped some. There were also false ribs for the bottom of the wing, not to change the shape but to keep the fabric from sinking in so much between the real ribs and also to reduce drag and help maintain the air foil type. Same thing for the fabric covered landing gear, there were ribs for that. My IV was very draggy, 95 mph max, even with the 912 S engine. I didn't even have fairings on the struts.
After flying it for 5 years, I fabricated fairings for the struts and picked up 5 mph.
If I had to do it all over again, I would get all that drag reduction stuff and the metal landing gear.
Barry West
[quote] ---
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jimlc(at)att.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 7:46 am Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Bob,
I have all of the foils on my Series 5 and will be working on my plane today. I will take pictures and send them to you. As I remember when I purchased my kit, they were standard on the Speedsters and an option for me. I think they might have even been called Speedster air foils.
Jim Crowder
At 10:03 PM 9/17/2006, you wrote:
[quote]Does anyone have some pics or drawings with dimensions of the "airfoil" type empennage that I think was used on the Late model 4 and up? I think it was an option and used plywood ribs that were either bowed in like a symmetrical airfoil or maybe just bowed on top like the wing airfoil.
Also what was the Idea of using it as opposed to a "flat" surface on the empennage?
Was it used only on the horizontal and vertical stabs or did it include the rudder and elevator?
Is it still used today on the mod VII etc?
Blue Skies
Bob Unternaehrer
shilocom(at)mcmsys.com (shilocom(at)mcmsys.com)
[b]
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Michel
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 966 Location: Norway
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Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 11:46 am Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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On Sep 18, 2006, at 7:24 AM, Lowell Fitt wrote:
Quote: | I had never considered this, but the suggestion was made by several of
the gurus on that list that a properly designed airfoil would reduce
the tendency of the elevator to stall.
|
This is an interesting subject, Lowell, and as you probably know, I
have experimented for years with airfoils in the X-Plane flight
simulator. It is the reason a French friend helped Kurt to make a good
profile for his wing struts.
From this "digital experience" I know that any profile has a
coefficient of lift, of drag and moment. Depending of the profile, the
stall angle may vary from 16 to 20 degrees. The simulator comes with a
good library of standard airfoils, most of them NACA. From that, it is
obvious that a good lifting airfoil will stall later than say, a flat
plate. But it is not very much, we are talking of a couple of degrees
of AoA.
However, the rudder and elevator is an airfoil that changes shape.
Stick and pedals will change the profile, making it with more or less
camber. How does that affect the angle of stall? Here, digital
modelling is more uncertain. A rudder with an angle is not like say, my
under-cambered wing.
Will a volumetric control surface work better than a flat plate?
Certainly because it will give more lift, which is then translated into
rotation moment in one or the other axis. Will the stalling of it be
delayed? I think so, but IMHO, only by a very small margin.
My sailboat is very special. The rudder is hanging from a small "keel"
called a skeg. The rudder and the skeg are shaped as a NACA profile,
the rudder being faired in the skeg, a bit like your foam and
glassfiber gap sealing. It creates a super powerful rudder and a ship
that can be steered with the little finger, even in a gale wind. So, an
good airfoil is better than a flat plate, that's for sure.
Cheers,
Michel
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janderson412(at)hotmail.c Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 1:06 pm Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Yes, the effort is surely worth it re drag reduction. I've gone to a bit of
effort on this and still air cruise is 100kts (GPS) Series V EA81
From: "Barry West" <barry(at)pgtc.com>
Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
To: <kitfox-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Airfoils on empanage
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 04:50:19 -0500
Bob, it was an option on IV when I bought my kit in about 1996 and I didn't
buy the option. I recall it was simply some ribs that formed bottom and top
of the horizontal and both side of the verticle. I'm sure it was for drag
reduction and also pretty sure it helped some. There were also false ribs
for the bottom of the wing, not to change the shape but to keep the fabric
from sinking in so much between the real ribs and also to reduce drag and
help maintain the air foil type. Same thing for the fabric covered landing
gear, there were ribs for that. My IV was very draggy, 95 mph max, even
with the 912 S engine. I didn't even have fairings on the struts.
After flying it for 5 years, I fabricated fairings for the struts and picked
up 5 mph.
If I had to do it all over again, I would get all that drag reduction stuff
and the metal landing gear.
Barry West
---
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smokey_bear_40220(at)yaho Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:23 pm Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Very well written Michel,
I don't have my airfoil book unpacked yet, but I seem
to remember a difference in stall around 4 degrees
between flat plate and a medium thin airfoil.
Thicker airfoils go to higher AOA's before stall.
Eventually you get round. Does a ball ever stall, or
is it always stalled? What is the AOA of a ball
anyway?
Leading edge geometry makes a big difference, but for
our tails, it is the same nose on a flat or profiled
tail.
The much modified, and I think improved, tail section
made by Lowell is on my computer as near ultimate
perfection for the job. His "eye balled engineering"
has made his plane go fast ya' know. What a gap seal!
Be interesting to do a wind tunnel comparison.
Remember the problems that the Cessna Cardinal had on
the first models? The tail would stall in the flare
and you'd land nose first. An inverted slot was added
to improve the downward lift before stalling and that
fixed it. If you look at an old F-4 tail, it has
inverted slots too, plus a multicurved profile.
Flat plates have a problem with a thicker boundry
layer that the elevator can hide in. Movement inside
of this boundry layer does little, making it feel like
the elevator is in the "loose stearing" mode. I
understand SS twisted the elevator to allow one side
to be at the top of the boundry layer while the other
side is at the bottom. This way, any movement got a
response. It reduces flutter too.
A profiled airfoil fills this boundry layer shadow and
keeps it thin and attached. Better elevator response
and less drag.
The big difference is when you displace the
elevator/rudder a large amount and try to keep the
lifting side (usually the bottom) from stalling. A
good curved profile will do better than a sudden
change in a flat plate.
Then there is that gap....
So a profiled tail should give a little better control
with a little less drag. A good gap seal should do
about as much good again, on top of that.
Results may vary....
Kurt S. S-5
--- Michel Verheughe <michel(at)online.no> wrote:
Quote: | On Sep 18, 2006, at 7:24 AM, Lowell Fitt wrote:
> I had never considered this, but the suggestion
was made by several of
> the gurus on that list that a properly designed
airfoil would reduce
> the tendency of the elevator to stall.
This is an interesting subject, Lowell, and as you
probably know, I
have experimented for years with airfoils in the
X-Plane flight
simulator. It is the reason a French friend helped
Kurt to make a good
profile for his wing struts.
From this "digital experience" I know that any
profile has a
coefficient of lift, of drag and moment. Depending
of the profile, the
stall angle may vary from 16 to 20 degrees. The
simulator comes with a
good library of standard airfoils, most of them
NACA. From that, it is
obvious that a good lifting airfoil will stall later
than say, a flat
plate. But it is not very much, we are talking of a
couple of degrees
of AoA.
However, the rudder and elevator is an airfoil that
changes shape.
Stick and pedals will change the profile, making it
with more or less
camber. How does that affect the angle of stall?
Here, digital
modelling is more uncertain. A rudder with an angle
is not like say, my
under-cambered wing.
Will a volumetric control surface work better than a
flat plate?
Certainly because it will give more lift, which is
then translated into
rotation moment in one or the other axis. Will the
stalling of it be
delayed? I think so, but IMHO, only by a very small
margin.
My sailboat is very special. The rudder is hanging
from a small "keel"
called a skeg. The rudder and the skeg are shaped as
a NACA profile,
the rudder being faired in the skeg, a bit like your
foam and
glassfiber gap sealing. It creates a super powerful
rudder and a ship
that can be steered with the little finger, even in
a gale wind. So, an
good airfoil is better than a flat plate, that's for
sure.
Cheers,
Michel
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smokey_bear_40220(at)yaho Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:41 pm Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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I used the plywood ribs for the H. Stab, but used a
copy machine and only the one largest rib as a
template for the V. Stab. I just resized the largest
rib down with the copier to fit in each smaller space
using the copy machine. Then I cut foam for the rib,
but you can stick to the plywood if you want.
Kurt S.
--- Bob Unternaehrer <shilocom(at)mcmsys.com> wrote:
Quote: | Does anyone have some pics or drawings with
dimensions of the "airfoil" type empennage that I
think was used on the Late model 4 and up? I think
it was an option and used plywood ribs that were
either bowed in like a symmetrical airfoil or maybe
just bowed on top like the wing airfoil.
Also what was the Idea of using it as opposed to a
"flat" surface on the empennage?
Was it used only on the horizontal and vertical
stabs or did it include the rudder and elevator?
Is it still used today on the mod VII etc?
Blue Skies
Bob Unternaehrer
shilocom(at)mcmsys.com
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dan(at)azshowersolutions. Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 4:31 pm Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Kurt, I just picked up this thread so forgive if redundancy occurs...I am about to put ribs in my vertical stab and wondered what kind of foam did you use and how thick? did you wrap them w/ anything?
Thanks,
Dan
kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
[quote]--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
I used the plywood ribs for the H. Stab, but used a
copy machine and only the one largest rib as a
template for the V. Stab. I just resized the largest
rib down with the copier to fit in each smaller space
using the copy machine. Then I cut foam for the rib,
but you can stick to the plywood if you want.
Kurt S.
--- Bob Unternaehrer wrote:
[quote] Does anyone have some pics or drawings with
dimensions of [quote][b]
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smokey_bear_40220(at)yaho Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 5:38 pm Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Hey Dan,
ACS has some great yellow foam something like SS used
for gap seals, but a little lighter. I think I used
2" thick and doubled where needed. A 4' x 4' piece.
I just shaped the foam in as a full leading edge piece
to the widest part, with 3 ribs - top, bottom and
middle - back from there. The top and bottom plywood
ribs were the sanding forms to shape to. Looks almost
solid. A big hotwire would have been easier....
You can epoxy some very light fiberglass over the
foam, but I just covered with fabric and left it that
way. It will probably destroy the foam when I need to
recover later though. The polybrush probably
penetrated the surface of the foam for a bit and I
expect it will rip out with the fabric in another 25
years. Always hangared.
Not a hard job to redo the foam though. Next time I
will use the epoxy and light glass over it. The model
hobby shops have the best light weight glass I found.
I weighed the parts, but forgot by now how much it
added. I seem to remember 6 oz max without the
fiberglass. You can hollow out the foam, careful to
leave a web, and offset the weight of the glass a
little. My tail still came in light and I am nose
heavy, so it wouldn't have been a problem to glass it.
If you haven't covered the H stab, now is the time to
put in a good gap seal. Just add a piece of foam to
the rear of the stab, front of the elevator, or both,
your choice, and leave enough room for the fabric.
Shape to allow full control movement and glass on.
I didn't do it and now have to use tape. The foam is
just a little more aerodynamic.
Kurt S.
--- Dan Billingsley <dan(at)azshowersolutions.com> wrote:
Quote: | Kurt, I just picked up this thread so forgive if
redundancy occurs...I am about to put ribs in my
vertical stab and wondered what kind of foam did you
use and how thick? did you wrap them w/ anything?
Thanks,
Dan
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Michel
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 966 Location: Norway
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Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 4:55 am Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Quote: | From: kurt schrader [smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com]
Remember the problems that the Cessna Cardinal had on
the first models?
|
Sir, no Sir! At the time I was only flirting with the sea - my first love - and cardinal were only the points of the compass rose!
Quote: | I understand SS twisted the elevator to allow one side
to be at the top of the boundry layer while the other
side is at the bottom.
|
Well, my Denney's model 3 has already that, Kurt. Maybe SkyStar increased it.
Quote: | A good curved profile will do better than a sudden
change in a flat plate.
|
Yes, and that's where simulation is doing a poor job because if standard NACA airfoils can be tested in a wind tunnel and the data transfered to a digital model, such oddity as an angled flat plate, cannot.
Likewise, an open or sealed gap is not modelable in a simulator. Unless one uses CFD (Computerized Fluid Dynamics) which would exclude real-time simulation since it is so complex and time consuming.
Then there is one last factor; a computer model is "clean." Reality never is. Do you remember that Mathias made a model for my "Avid" wing? It flew very well in the simulator. Too well! That's because our wings are never as perfect as a model. And how could they be with fabric on ribs?
Cheers,
Michel
<pre><b><font size color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
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dan(at)azshowersolutions. Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:01 am Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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Thanks for the info Kurt :>)
Dan
kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
[quote]--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
Hey Dan,
ACS has some great yellow foam something like SS used
for gap seals, but a little lighter. I think I used
2" thick and doubled where needed. A 4' x 4' piece.
I just shaped the foam in as a full leading edge piece
to the widest part, with 3 ribs - top, bottom and
middle - back from there. The top and bottom plywood
ribs were the sanding forms to shape to. Looks almost
solid. A big hotwire would have been easier....
You can epoxy some very light fiberglass over the
foam, but I just covered with fabric and left it that
way. It will probably destroy the foam when I need to
recover later though. The polybrush probably
penetrated the surface of the foam for a bit and I
expect it will rip out with the fabric in another 25
years. Always hangared.
Not a hard job to redo the foam though. Next time I
will use the epoxy and light glass over it. The model
hobby shops have the best light weight glass I found.
I weighed the parts, but forgot by now how much it
added. I seem to remember 6 oz max without the
fiberglass. You can hollow out the foam, careful to
leave a web, and offset the weight of the glass a
little. My tail still came in light and I am nose
heavy, so it wouldn't have been a problem to glass it.
If you haven't covered the H stab, now is the time to
put in a good gap seal. Just add a piece of foam to
the rear of the stab, front of the elevator, or both,
your choice, and leave enough room for the fabric.
Shape to allow full control movement and glass on.
I didn't do it and now have to use [quote][b]
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kerrjohna(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:11 am Post subject: Airfoils on empanage |
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I was in the aviation section of Walmart earlier this week and again saw the rolls of gap sealing tape (clear contact paper). One roll will do 10 Kitfoxes for under a $1 per plane. It is what I used 10 years ago and it is still in place.
John Kerr
[quote]-------------- Original message --------------
From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com>
[quote] --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
Hey Dan,
ACS has some great yellow foam something like SS used
for gap seals, but a little lighter. I think I used
2" thick and doubled where needed. A 4' x 4' piece.
I just shaped the foam in as a full leading edge piece
to the widest part, with 3 ribs - top, bottom and
middle - back from there. The top and bottom plywood
ribs were the sanding forms to shape to. Looks almost
solid. A big hotwire would have been easier....
You can epoxy some very light fiberglass over the
foam, but I just covered with fabric and left it that
way. It will probably dest roy th e foam when I need to
recover later though. The polybrush probably
penetrated the surface of the foam for a bit and I
expect it will rip out with the fabric in another 25
years. Always hangared.
Not a hard job to redo the foam though. Next time I
will use the epoxy and light glass over it. The model
hobby shops have the best light weight glass I found.
I weighed the parts, but forgot by now how much it
added. I seem to remember 6 oz max without the
fiberglass. You can hollow out the foam, careful to
leave a web, and offset the weight of the glass a
little. My tail still came in light and I am nose
heavy, so it wouldn't have been a problem to glass it.
If you haven't covered the H stab, now is the time to
put in a good gap seal. Just add a piece of foam to
the rear of the stab, front of the elevator, or b oth, < h & > [quote][b]
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