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Lap solder or D-Sub Pins

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emrath(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:28 pm Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins

Bob:

I am in the process of wiring some K type thermal couples for my EGT and CHT

gage, the UBG-16 from Electronics International. The problem is the supplied

thermal couple type K wire is 6' and I really only need 3' or so between the

gage and the sensor. The ends of the wires came with pre-crimped 1/4"

fast-on connectors. The cable may be shorted as needed per EI and new

connectors crimped on.  I was thinking cutting the wires to length and then

cutting off the mating connector and putting on some solid D-sub pins and

cover with heat shrink in order to avoid the "snake swallowed the mouse"

look.  However, I'm wondering if just a "lap joint" as you show on your shop

articles isn't perhaps more robust for the job. I know that thermal couple K

wire is different from copper somehow, but can they be soldered like normal

copper wires?  This will all be under the cowling.



Marty RV-6A the long way.

Thanks for all you do!

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bob(at)bob-white.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:43 pm Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 20:27:20 -0500

"Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Bob:

 I am in the process of wiring some K type thermal couples for my EGT and CHT

 gage, the UBG-16 from Electronics International. The problem is the supplied

 thermal couple type K wire is 6' and I really only need 3' or so between the

 gage and the sensor. The ends of the wires came with pre-crimped 1/4"

 fast-on connectors. The cable may be shorted as needed per EI and new

 connectors crimped on.  I was thinking cutting the wires to length and then

 cutting off the mating connector and putting on some solid D-sub pins and

 cover with heat shrink in order to avoid the "snake swallowed the mouse"

 look.  However, I'm wondering if just a "lap joint" as you show on your shop

 articles isn't perhaps more robust for the job. I know that thermal couple K

 wire is different from copper somehow, but can they be soldered like normal

 copper wires?  This will all be under the cowling.

 

 Marty RV-6A the long way.

 Thanks for all you do!

 


	


Hi Marty,



I'm not the Bob you were asking, but I can answer your question.  In

general you can't solder thermocouple wire.  Particularly not the J and

K types commonly used for A/C temp measurements.  I think they will

silver solder or they could be spot welded but the simplest thing to

do is use the crimp connectors.  Either the fast-on or D-sub will work

OK.  You want to keep the temperature differential across the crimped

connections as low as possible to minimize errors.



Bob W.

 

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 

 


	




-- 

http://www.bob-white.com

N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (first engine start 1/7/06)

Custom Cables for your rotary installation -

http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/

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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 4:54 am Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins

At 08:27 PM 9/25/2006 -0500, you wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  



Bob:

I am in the process of wiring some K type thermal couples for my EGT and CHT

gage, the UBG-16 from Electronics International. The problem is the supplied

thermal couple type K wire is 6' and I really only need 3' or so between the

gage and the sensor. The ends of the wires came with pre-crimped 1/4"

fast-on connectors. The cable may be shorted as needed per EI and new

connectors crimped on.  I was thinking cutting the wires to length and then

cutting off the mating connector and putting on some solid D-sub pins and

cover with heat shrink in order to avoid the "snake swallowed the mouse"

look.  However, I'm wondering if just a "lap joint" as you show on your shop

articles isn't perhaps more robust for the job. I know that thermal couple K

wire is different from copper somehow, but can they be soldered like normal

copper wires?  This will all be under the cowling.


	


   Type J thermocouples will solder nicely with 63/37 with a

   reasonably active flux like Kester "44" or "285". You can

   try whatever solder you have to see if you can first "tin"

   the bare strand(s) and then twist them together and see how

   the solder flows over the twisted wires.



   Type K is best silver soldered or you can use the crimped

   d-sub pins mated together under a sleeve of heat-shrink

   as a splicing technique.



   Finally, consider cutting the existing fast-on terminals off,

   shortening the wires and installing new terminals. Use

   PIDG terminals and a ratchet-handled installation tool. See:



http://aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf



   for additional info on thermocouples.



   Bob . . .



      ---------------------------------------------------------

      < What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >

      < the authority which determines whether there can be   >

      < debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of   >

      < scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests     >

      < with experiment.                                      >

      <                            --Lawrence M. Krauss       >

      ---------------------------------------------------------

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emrath(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:23 pm Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins

Thanks Bob, Just the encouragement I needed to go "experimenting" by cutting

off the existin connectors and getting the soldering iron going.

Marty



Time: 05:54:37 AM PST US

From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>

Subject: Re: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins




--> <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>



At 08:27 PM 9/25/2006 -0500, you wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  



Bob:

I am in the process of wiring some K type thermal couples for my EGT 

and CHT gage, the UBG-16 from Electronics International. The problem is 

the supplied thermal couple type K wire is 6' and I really only need 3' 

or so between the gage and the sensor. The ends of the wires came with 

pre-crimped 1/4" fast-on connectors. The cable may be shorted as needed 

per EI and new connectors crimped on.  I was thinking cutting the wires 

to length and then cutting off the mating connector and putting on some 

solid D-sub pins and cover with heat shrink in order to avoid the 

"snake swallowed the mouse" look.  However, I'm wondering if just a 

"lap joint" as you show on your shop articles isn't perhaps more robust 

for the job. I know that thermal couple K wire is different from copper 

somehow, but can they be soldered like normal copper wires?  This will 

all be under the cowling.


	


   Type J thermocouples will solder nicely with 63/37 with a

   reasonably active flux like Kester "44" or "285". You can

   try whatever solder you have to see if you can first "tin"

   the bare strand(s) and then twist them together and see how

   the solder flows over the twisted wires.



   Type K is best silver soldered or you can use the crimped

   d-sub pins mated together under a sleeve of heat-shrink

   as a splicing technique.



   Finally, consider cutting the existing fast-on terminals off,

   shortening the wires and installing new terminals. Use

   PIDG terminals and a ratchet-handled installation tool. See:



http://aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf



   for additional info on thermocouples.



   Bob . . .

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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 4:40 am Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins

At 09:22 PM 9/27/2006 -0500, you wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  



Thanks Bob, Just the encouragement I needed to go "experimenting" by cutting

off the existin connectors and getting the soldering iron going.

Marty


	


  I think you mentioned K wire in your original posting. You'll need

  the mini-torch and silver solder for those. But if you cut the

  existing connectors off, then replacing them with crimped-on terminals

  will get rid of the excess wire and replace the connectors with

  as good or better than supplied from the factory.



  Bob . . .

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