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emrath(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:28 pm Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins |
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Bob:
I am in the process of wiring some K type thermal couples for my EGT and CHT
gage, the UBG-16 from Electronics International. The problem is the supplied
thermal couple type K wire is 6' and I really only need 3' or so between the
gage and the sensor. The ends of the wires came with pre-crimped 1/4"
fast-on connectors. The cable may be shorted as needed per EI and new
connectors crimped on. I was thinking cutting the wires to length and then
cutting off the mating connector and putting on some solid D-sub pins and
cover with heat shrink in order to avoid the "snake swallowed the mouse"
look. However, I'm wondering if just a "lap joint" as you show on your shop
articles isn't perhaps more robust for the job. I know that thermal couple K
wire is different from copper somehow, but can they be soldered like normal
copper wires? This will all be under the cowling.
Marty RV-6A the long way.
Thanks for all you do!
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bob(at)bob-white.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:43 pm Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins |
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On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 20:27:20 -0500
"Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> wrote:
Quote: |
Bob:
I am in the process of wiring some K type thermal couples for my EGT and CHT
gage, the UBG-16 from Electronics International. The problem is the supplied
thermal couple type K wire is 6' and I really only need 3' or so between the
gage and the sensor. The ends of the wires came with pre-crimped 1/4"
fast-on connectors. The cable may be shorted as needed per EI and new
connectors crimped on. I was thinking cutting the wires to length and then
cutting off the mating connector and putting on some solid D-sub pins and
cover with heat shrink in order to avoid the "snake swallowed the mouse"
look. However, I'm wondering if just a "lap joint" as you show on your shop
articles isn't perhaps more robust for the job. I know that thermal couple K
wire is different from copper somehow, but can they be soldered like normal
copper wires? This will all be under the cowling.
Marty RV-6A the long way.
Thanks for all you do!
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Hi Marty,
I'm not the Bob you were asking, but I can answer your question. In
general you can't solder thermocouple wire. Particularly not the J and
K types commonly used for A/C temp measurements. I think they will
silver solder or they could be spot welded but the simplest thing to
do is use the crimp connectors. Either the fast-on or D-sub will work
OK. You want to keep the temperature differential across the crimped
connections as low as possible to minimize errors.
Bob W.
--
http://www.bob-white.com
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 (first engine start 1/7/06)
Custom Cables for your rotary installation -
http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/
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nuckollsr(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 4:54 am Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins |
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At 08:27 PM 9/25/2006 -0500, you wrote:
Quote: |
Bob:
I am in the process of wiring some K type thermal couples for my EGT and CHT
gage, the UBG-16 from Electronics International. The problem is the supplied
thermal couple type K wire is 6' and I really only need 3' or so between the
gage and the sensor. The ends of the wires came with pre-crimped 1/4"
fast-on connectors. The cable may be shorted as needed per EI and new
connectors crimped on. I was thinking cutting the wires to length and then
cutting off the mating connector and putting on some solid D-sub pins and
cover with heat shrink in order to avoid the "snake swallowed the mouse"
look. However, I'm wondering if just a "lap joint" as you show on your shop
articles isn't perhaps more robust for the job. I know that thermal couple K
wire is different from copper somehow, but can they be soldered like normal
copper wires? This will all be under the cowling.
|
Type J thermocouples will solder nicely with 63/37 with a
reasonably active flux like Kester "44" or "285". You can
try whatever solder you have to see if you can first "tin"
the bare strand(s) and then twist them together and see how
the solder flows over the twisted wires.
Type K is best silver soldered or you can use the crimped
d-sub pins mated together under a sleeve of heat-shrink
as a splicing technique.
Finally, consider cutting the existing fast-on terminals off,
shortening the wires and installing new terminals. Use
PIDG terminals and a ratchet-handled installation tool. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
for additional info on thermocouples.
Bob . . .
---------------------------------------------------------
< What is so wonderful about scientific truth...is that >
< the authority which determines whether there can be >
< debate or not does not reside in some fraternity of >
< scientists; nor is it divine. The authority rests >
< with experiment. >
< --Lawrence M. Krauss >
---------------------------------------------------------
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emrath(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:23 pm Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins |
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Thanks Bob, Just the encouragement I needed to go "experimenting" by cutting
off the existin connectors and getting the soldering iron going.
Marty
Time: 05:54:37 AM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins
--> <nuckollsr(at)cox.net>
At 08:27 PM 9/25/2006 -0500, you wrote:
Quote: |
Bob:
I am in the process of wiring some K type thermal couples for my EGT
and CHT gage, the UBG-16 from Electronics International. The problem is
the supplied thermal couple type K wire is 6' and I really only need 3'
or so between the gage and the sensor. The ends of the wires came with
pre-crimped 1/4" fast-on connectors. The cable may be shorted as needed
per EI and new connectors crimped on. I was thinking cutting the wires
to length and then cutting off the mating connector and putting on some
solid D-sub pins and cover with heat shrink in order to avoid the
"snake swallowed the mouse" look. However, I'm wondering if just a
"lap joint" as you show on your shop articles isn't perhaps more robust
for the job. I know that thermal couple K wire is different from copper
somehow, but can they be soldered like normal copper wires? This will
all be under the cowling.
|
Type J thermocouples will solder nicely with 63/37 with a
reasonably active flux like Kester "44" or "285". You can
try whatever solder you have to see if you can first "tin"
the bare strand(s) and then twist them together and see how
the solder flows over the twisted wires.
Type K is best silver soldered or you can use the crimped
d-sub pins mated together under a sleeve of heat-shrink
as a splicing technique.
Finally, consider cutting the existing fast-on terminals off,
shortening the wires and installing new terminals. Use
PIDG terminals and a ratchet-handled installation tool. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
for additional info on thermocouples.
Bob . . .
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nuckollsr(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2006 4:40 am Post subject: Lap solder or D-Sub Pins |
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At 09:22 PM 9/27/2006 -0500, you wrote:
Quote: |
Thanks Bob, Just the encouragement I needed to go "experimenting" by cutting
off the existin connectors and getting the soldering iron going.
Marty
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I think you mentioned K wire in your original posting. You'll need
the mini-torch and silver solder for those. But if you cut the
existing connectors off, then replacing them with crimped-on terminals
will get rid of the excess wire and replace the connectors with
as good or better than supplied from the factory.
Bob . . .
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