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Filler wars - Part I

 
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Deems Davis



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 11:54 am    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

I've got the cabin cover off prior to match drilling it to the Fuse and
figured this would be a good time to smooth out the "varicous veins"
left from the vacum bagging and to otherwise sand and fill the
depressions/hills and valleys to make for a more ascethetic interior
appearance. I merrily began this process using Bondo for the deeper
'valleys' and a product called 'Icing' for the more shallow. John 'The
Turbinator" Cox who monitors this grasshoppers progress to keep me from
wandering too far afield from 'acceptable' practices. Noted what I was
doing and in an offline e-mail diplomatically informed me that both of
the 2 products I was using have histories of shrinking after 18-24
months of use, and particularly when exposed to high (120F) temps. >Surprised
! He sent me some pictures from some Lancair projects to dramatically
demonstrate the results.

So my question is: What 'aircraft grade' filler are people using? And
where did you obtain it from? I'd appreciate hearing experience
particularly from anybody that's already solved this problem. The
application I'm using it for, is definitely Non Structural, and cosmetic
only, so I don't need/want to use flox, epoxy and micro takes too long
to set up to be able to sand. as I'm finding that it takes many many
coats/layers of filler to get a smooth surface.

Let the games begin

Deems Davis # 406
Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/


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Rick S.



Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Location: Las Vegas

PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 12:22 pm    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

Only at 120 degrees Deems, press on cause it is only 120 for about 10 minutes in the morning then it's way past that for the rest of the day Wink

I heard the Evercoat lightweight Rage Gold filler was good. I hope cause I used it on my HS tips but alas I did use lightweight cloth prior to a very thin coat.

Rick S.
40185

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Rick S.
RV-10
40185
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acs(at)acspropeller.com.a
Guest





PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 3:14 pm    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

Deems, recommendations from the local Aero Structures group here..
Hysol EA934NA or EA960F. Check with Loctite Aerospace group www.loctite.com
they should have a data chart for cross referencing applications.
A question for you..... how well did your cabin cover align with your
tailcone top skin F-1074? I seem to have zero gap at the very top but up to
.125" at the side skin junctions (F1073) All else seems to be trimmed
John 40315

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Deems Davis



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 6:25 pm    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

Thanks John, it looks like I need EA960F (Fast). now if I can find a
place that distributes it. I can't say as how the cabin cover aligns
because I haven't put it on with the F1074 skin yet, I'll let you know
what it looks like when I do.

Deems Davis # 406
Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/


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speckter(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 3:50 am    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

For those of you new to composits there are two products that you should not
be without. Superfil by Poly-Fiber and UV Smooth Prime Filler. The first is
a body filler but it is light weight and sands easily. It goes on easy and
comes off easy. This is a must, for get the bondo. The second is for pin
holes in the composits. It to works great. Both are pricy but as they say
you get what you pay for. Spruce has both of them.

Gary
40274

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rvbuilder(at)sausen.net
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:00 am    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

Epoxy also has a tendency to let go of polyester parts after a while and
I believe the canopy is made from polyester resin. But I could be wrong
as I haven't seen my canopy in over a month. I need to get my new
workshop done!

Michael
Do not archive

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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:06 am    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

Most likely the canopy is acrylic.
Linn

RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:

[quote]

Epoxy also has a tendency to let go of polyester parts after a while and
I believe the canopy is made from polyester resin. But I could be wrong
as I haven't seen my canopy in over a month. I need to get my new
workshop done!

Michael
Do not archive

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rvbuilder(at)sausen.net
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:15 am    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

Actually the canopy/cabin lid/top/fiberglass looking thingy isn't in an
RV-10 but the windscreen and windows are. Wink

Do not archive.

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ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 5:51 pm    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

Guys,
Hate to state the obvious, but any reason why we would not follow the guidelines in Plans Section 5T (particularly 'Prepping the Cowling for Paint') for all of the glass work?? Unless there is a compelling reason not to, this is what I have planned for the lid (this coming weekend).
cheers,
Ron
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 3:56 am    Post subject: Filler wars - Part I Reply with quote

You can use the West System epoxy (products 105 and 205) mixed with West System product 410.  410 is a very light weight filler that sands well.  Mix the product dry for deep holes and a little wet for final filling to minimize pin holes. for the final coat, use all three products as a liquid slurry to fill the pin holes.
do not archive
Rob Kermanj



On Oct 3, 2006, at 3:53 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net (deemsdavis(at)cox.net)>
I've got the cabin cover off prior to match drilling it to the Fuse and figured this would be a good time to smooth out the "varicous veins" left from the vacum bagging and to otherwise sand and fill the depressions/hills and valleys to make for a more ascethetic interior appearance. I merrily began this process using Bondo for the deeper 'valleys' and a product called 'Icing' for the more shallow. John 'The Turbinator" Cox who monitors this grasshoppers progress to keep me from wandering too far afield from 'acceptable' practices. Noted what I was doing and in an offline e-mail diplomatically informed me that both of the 2 products I was using have histories of shrinking after 18-24 months of use, and particularly when exposed to high (120F) temps. >Surprised  ! He sent me some pictures from some Lancair projects to dramatically demonstrate the results.
So my question is: What 'aircraft grade' filler are people using? And where did you obtain it from? I'd appreciate hearing experience particularly from anybody that's already solved this problem. The application I'm using it for, is definitely Non Structural, and cosmetic only, so I  don't need/want to use flox, epoxy and micro takes too long to set up to be able to sand. as I'm finding that it takes many many coats/layers of filler to get a smooth surface.
Let the games begin
Deems Davis # 406
Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/


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