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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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 Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 11:54 am Post subject: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
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I'm a kit builder but it looks like I'm going to have to scratch build a
custom replacement for one on the bulkheads on my 601XL. I believe I know
the basics after listening to all the messages on scratch building on this
list over the years. But does anyone know of a good tutorial or step-by-step
on the web for making a form block from the plans and then using it?
Yes, I know about the Home Built Help DVDs but I was hoping to built the
part this weekend.
-- Craig
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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| Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 2:44 pm Post subject: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
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Craig-
I should have taken pictures of part forming. Check out Larry
MacFarland's site, but make your "Dimple reliefs" even deeper. Start with
good plywood, 7 ply or the equivalent.The important part is to make sure you
have the 7 degree backangle. Edge radius can be put in by hand.
Contact me for more help. Come to think of it, Greg Boothe just finished
making all his C section ribs- you might want to contact him.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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| Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 2:54 pm Post subject: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
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Thanks for the advice. I'm trying MDF instead of plywood. I looked around
Larry's photos and couldn't find any on forming blocks. I'll work through
his log and see if there is a link.
I intend to build a simple trial piece before tackling 6B-12-2 (the baggage
area bulkhead).
-- Craig
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larry(at)macsmachine.com
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| Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 4:46 pm Post subject: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
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Hi Craig,
The baggage bulkhead is a good starter for forming blocks. I was lucky
because initially many of my form blocks were obtained from a gentleman
in Indiana named John Shirley who had nearly completed his HDS. He
bought a few parts and had a different fuel system than I so I had to
make a lot of forms anyway and remake some to correct what he’d used to
make his wings and fuselage. I’ve now nearly two sets of wing rib forms.
The ones I made for my fuselage and fuel tanks and tank ribs were
initially laid out on the plywood using the plans provided data points.
Getting an accurate cut out for the bulkhead is important because it
will set between the bows and rear bulkhead in the tail and provide the
straight line between them in three dimensions. Anyway, trust the data
points and make it accurate.
A band saw would be handy here, and a sanding disk for bringing the
material down to the line. Once you’ve got the plywood cut out, put a
nice 1/16-inch radius on the side you intend to place the aluminum. On
the opposite side, cut or sand about 7 degrees of back angle so the
aluminum can be over-bent during forming and it will straighten to a
near 90-degree angle. At locations that do not interfere with the rivet
spacing, put crimping notches in the back angled edge that do not get
into the opposing 1/16^th bend radius. The notch locations are either
spelled out or are positioned to not interfere with aligning rivets in
progressive bulkheads. (This is more important for wing ribs than any
other parts.) Make a clamping blank that matches the bending former so
that you have a means of holding the aluminum as you bend the flanges.
Use the form blank to layout your aluminum piece by tracing it using ink
marker. Estimate 20mm or 13/16th inch from the traced line and again
follow the former around to get the flange marked out.
At this time, match center-marks to locate each notch on the flange as
well. Cut the aluminum blank 1/8 inch larger than the flange edge and
then trim it down to the line. De burr the edges. Sandwich the aluminum
piece leaving the flange hanging out and mark bottom corner intersects.
Use a Whitney punch to knock out a 3/16ths hole on center of these
intersections. Cut the 90 degree intersect corner off the flange to the
holes. Trim so the flanges being bent will not interfere with each other
nor touch after bending. Drill and bolt the clamped sandwich two places
so that the orientation doesn’t shift during forming. Place the bolted
sandwich in a vise and using a rubber mallet, begin working the flange
about the small radius to an even 45 degrees all round and then place
starting crimps in the radius of the flange at the notch positions. Put
a plastic headed hammer to the flange to bring it around the rest of the
way after crimping has been established. The crimps are carefully
deepened and eventually punched into the notches with a hammer and a
piece of rod the same diameter. When the flange surface has been leveled
all round and seems to hug the former, it’s time to unbolt the bulkhead
and remove it and make minor adjustments to get the slight over-bend
angle needed to go from one bulkhead to the next or match the fuselage
taper. Usually, a little more crimping and tapping with the plastic
hammer will get it there. The rivet hole pattern should be known before
bending or crimping anything.
Don't be afraid to do all this again if you need better dimensions. We
all have had to do things more than once to get it right.
There you have it. Best of luck,
Larry C. McFarland – 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Craig Payne wrote:
| Quote: |
I'm a kit builder but it looks like I'm going to have to scratch build a
custom replacement for one on the bulkheads on my 601XL. I believe I know
the basics after listening to all the messages on scratch building on this
list over the years. But does anyone know of a good tutorial or step-by-step
on the web for making a form block from the plans and then using it?
Yes, I know about the Home Built Help DVDs but I was hoping to built the
part this weekend.
-- Craig
|
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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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| Posted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 5:30 pm Post subject: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
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Wow, thanks for the detailed reply! One thing I'm still fuzzy on are the
notches in the forming block. What radius are they? Do they extend through
the entire thickness of the block? Or vary from their maximum radius on the
side of the block away from the metal to nothing on the working face? Do I
just file them into the form with a round file? Dave Clay's web site show
him tapping the metal into a notch using the shaft of a socket extension.
That would imply a radius of a bit more than that shaft:
www.daves601xl.com/Wings/wings2/rib1/rib2/rib3/rib7.html
-- Craig
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larry(at)macsmachine.com
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| Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:59 am Post subject: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
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Craig,
The back angle which is 7 degrees has to be filed so that from the end
of the 1/16 inch radius there
begins a round notch of 3/8 inch or so. It's easily done with a round
file and should be something
like 45 degrees. Socket extension makes a good tool for banging in
final crimping. I used a cone
shaped stone in a Dremel tool to quickly put in the notches and filed
them as needed.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/12gsafety.gif
See the image of my top bulkheads and the crimps with flanges forward.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Craig Payne wrote:
| Quote: |
Wow, thanks for the detailed reply! One thing I'm still fuzzy on are the
notches in the forming block. What radius are they? Do they extend through
the entire thickness of the block? Or vary from their maximum radius on the
side of the block away from the metal to nothing on the working face? Do I
just file them into the form with a round file? Dave Clay's web site show
him tapping the metal into a notch using the shaft of a socket extension.
That would imply a radius of a bit more than that shaft:
www.daves601xl.com/Wings/wings2/rib1/rib2/rib3/rib7.html
-- Craig
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Ron Lendon
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI
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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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| Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2006 8:03 pm Post subject: On-line info on making and using form blocks? |
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Thanks. But unless you used invisible ink the links didn't make it into the
message.
-- Craig
--
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Ron Lendon
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI
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