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stu_brown(at)juno.com
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 Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:09 am Post subject: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06 |
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Use care when removing the drain valve from your tank. It is possible
to rip or crack the nipple from an old tank that has lost it's elasticity.
I checked the tanks in my G-35, the bladders were manufacturered in
September 1955. Wish me luck.
Someone posted he changed the O-rings in the Curtis drain valve. Where
did you get the parts? I did not know Curtis offered replacement parts.
Stu Brown
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EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
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Beech-List Digest Archive
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Total Messages Posted Thu 10/12/06: 3
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Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:16 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Masterson, Fred)
2. 07:42 AM - Re: Main gear doorsMain gear doors (Murray Randall)
3. 08:18 AM - Re: cleveland brakes and gear doors (Rob Breitbarth)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 05:16:11 AM PST US
From: "Masterson, Fred" <Fred.Masterson(at)airliquide.com>
Subject: RE: cleveland brakes and gear doors
If you hold the drain to one side you can use a thin screwdriver to loosen
the clamp.
The hardest part is holding it to reinstall the drain.
I pulled both and put new o rings in last year.
Fred Masterson
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rob87b(at)earthlink.net
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| Posted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 6:36 am Post subject: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/12/06 |
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I got the drain valves from the beech dealer. No luck on replacement o-rings. Curtis does not supply them. Some people are using regular 0-rings, not the special shape Curtis. Don't know how they work. I have replaced two bladders so far. The other two are 1955 vintage. They are the ones that have leaky valves. The seal was gone in the one valve I just replaced. The other looks like it will be the same.
Watch close and replace if starts giving you trouble. It will only get worse. I was just on a cross country trip when one would not stop leaking. Had to defuel an aux tank to stop the leak.
rob.
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