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Fred Klein
Joined: 26 Mar 2012 Posts: 503
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Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 12:01 pm Post subject: exhaust pipe clearance |
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Gentlemen…here’s a situation and a question:
I have maintained 1.50 inches clearance between the inside surface of my lower cowl and my engine exhaust pipes. I set this up w/ the assumption that this would be adequate considering that I have used a
high temperature flame retardant resin (HTR250FR, by Resin Services, Inc.) for my custom cowls. It maintains a “Flexural Modulus at 350 degrees F. of 6.25 x 36,000” (whatever that means).
Would anyone be willing to opine on the advisability of applying some “aluminized, adhesive-backed, heat barrier, to reflect radiant heat away from the cowl surface and back towards the engine and exhaust?
(This so-called “heat barrier” is a composite consisting of aluminum foil on a backing material which looks like burlap to which is applied an adhesive good for 350 degrees F.)
(I have a total of 10 sq. in. of inlet and 14 sq. in. of exit area for air circulation within the cowl.)
(Obviously, this is not a 9xx Rotax installation.)
Comments and opinions appreciated in advance,
Fred
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rehn(at)rockisland.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 1:32 pm Post subject: exhaust pipe clearance |
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Fred
First, I have a Rotax 914. I had a little discoloration from exhaust heat on the cowling near the exhaust pipe exit. Probably less than an inch clearance. I used simple aluminum backed tape on the cowling, it is usually good for 2 or 3 years before I replace it, works fine, is light, eliminates further Issues to cowling. Keep it simple and light. You may not even have an issue with an inch and a half clearance . Wait and see, you may have good circulation of air and your cowls sound robust for heat.
Can't wait to see you flying over Roche!😃
Sent from my iPad
Quote: | On Jun 10, 2015, at 12:59 PM, Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> wrote:
Gentlemen…here’s a situation and a question:
I have maintained 1.50 inches clearance between the inside surface of my lower cowl and my engine exhaust pipes. I set this up w/ the assumption that this would be adequate considering that I have used a
high temperature flame retardant resin (HTR250FR, by Resin Services, Inc.) for my custom cowls. It maintains a “Flexural Modulus at 350 degrees F. of 6.25 x 36,000” (whatever that means).
Would anyone be willing to opine on the advisability of applying some “aluminized, adhesive-backed, heat barrier, to reflect radiant heat away from the cowl surface and back towards the engine and exhaust?
(This so-called “heat barrier” is a composite consisting of aluminum foil on a backing material which looks like burlap to which is applied an adhesive good for 350 degrees F.)
(I have a total of 10 sq. in. of inlet and 14 sq. in. of exit area for air circulation within the cowl.)
(Obviously, this is not a 9xx Rotax installation.)
Comments and opinions appreciated in advance,
Fred
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Fred Klein
Joined: 26 Mar 2012 Posts: 503
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Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 3:36 pm Post subject: exhaust pipe clearance |
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Quote: | On Jun 10, 2015, at 2:31 PM, Jerry Rehn <rehn(at)rockisland.com (rehn(at)rockisland.com)> wrote:
Keep it simple and light.
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Jerry…apropos weight, here are my preliminary numbers subject to finish paint, ELT, and some tools:
Quote: | 2. XX Mar 14 using W. Munich’s acft scale w/ 4 qts oil + 1 gal. coolant placed top of cowl:
Main Wheel: 757.0#
Tail Wheel: 77.8#*
Total: 834.8#
* Includes blocking weighing __?__
C of G: 60.67”
NOTE: Batteries are mounted on FG platforms which have NOT as yet been bonded in place and are free to slide fore or aft in accordance w/ C of G requirements after ALL components have been installed.
NOTE: Engine requires 5 quarts of oil because of increased volume of oversized filter.
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All in all, I confess to having been both pleased and surprised…
F.
[quote][b]
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paul.the.aviator(at)gmail Guest
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Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 6:06 am Post subject: exhaust pipe clearance |
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Fred, the stuff works okay but the glue doesn't hold up. - Paul
On Wed, Jun 10, 2015 at 2:59 PM, Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com (fklein(at)orcasonline.com)> wrote:
[quote]--> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com (fklein(at)orcasonline.com)>
Gentlemen…here’s a situation and a question:
I have maintained 1.50 inches clearance between the inside surface of my lower cowl and my engine exhaust pipes. I set this up w/ the assumption that this would be adequate considering that I have used a
high temperature flame retardant resin (HTR250FR, by Resin Services, Inc.) for my custom cowls. It maintains a “Flexural Modulus at 350 degrees F. of 6.25 x 36,000” (whatever that means).
Would anyone be willing to opine on the advisability of applying some “aluminized, adhesive-backed, heat barrier, to reflect radiant heat away from the cowl surface and back towards the engine and exhaust?
(This so-called “heat barrier” is a composite consisting of aluminum foil on a backing material which looks like burlap to which is applied an adhesive good for 350 degrees F.)
(I have a total of 10 sq. in. of inlet and 14 sq. in. of exit area for air circulation within the cowl.)
(Obviously, this is not a 9xx Rotax installation.)
Comments and opinions appreciated in advance,
Fred
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