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carl.froehlich(at)verizon Guest
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 1:47 pm Post subject: Distance from ground level to wing tie downs |
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While others may disagree, for several reasons I never like the "bolt into the tie down" approach for jacking up the plane. Attached photos show what I did. The padded 2x6 is centered under the wing spar. The jack rod is captured by the pipe flange on the bottom of the 2x6. Note the 1/4" thick aluminum plate between the flange and the 2x6. This is there to prevent the jack rod from poking a hole in the 2x6. The flange provides movement between the jack rod and the 2x6 to adjust to the wing spar as needed, but is deep enough to prevent the rod from slipping out. In other words the 2x6 is always flat against the wing spar.
While you can get by with one, I made two for those special occasions where I wanted both main gear off the ground. These have proven to be very stable on several RVs over the years.
Carl
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Albert Gardner
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 455 Location: Yuma, AZ
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:32 pm Post subject: Distance from ground level to wing tie downs |
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Well, I like the idea on attaching the plane to the jack. Drill the holes in the top of the ram oversize and use a short length of all-threaded rod and it can't fall off. The all-threaded rod is somewhat soft and could bend so the dihedral is not a factor. Mine have never bent however.
On the other hand, different strokes for different folks! Looks like they all work for the purpose.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
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_________________ RV-9A N872RV
RV-10 N991RV |
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rnewman(at)tcwtech.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:35 pm Post subject: Distance from ground level to wing tie downs |
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If your airplane is on a hard surface, like a concrete hangar floor then the following from harbor freight works great for all jacking exercises without any modification. The hydraulic lifting table. http://m.harborfreight.com/1000-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-69148.html
Works great. Just park it under the wing spar, add a carpet square or moving blanket and lift the plane. The table is plenty deep to easily reach the spar without the handle hitting the leading edge of the wing. I've used it countless times during building and servicing the plane. It's fast,stable, easy to reposition. I've even used it on the front of the plane to lift the nose wheel off the ground. You can get a good bit of the table right under the firewall bulkhead. With a moving blanket on the table, very nicely distribute the load.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
610-928-3420
[quote] On Jan 4, 2016, at 3:44 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> wrote:
While others may disagree, for several reasons I never like the "bolt into the tie down" approach for jacking up the plane. Attached photos show what I did. The padded 2x6 is centered under the wing spar. The jack rod is captured by the pipe flange on the bottom of the 2x6. Note the 1/4" thick aluminum plate between the flange and the 2x6. This is there to prevent the jack rod from poking a hole in the 2x6. The flange provides movement between the jack rod and the 2x6 to adjust to the wing spar as needed, but is deep enough to prevent the rod from slipping out. In other words the 2x6 is always flat against the wing spar.
While you can get by with one, I made two for those special occasions where I wanted both main gear off the ground. These have proven to be very stable on several RVs over the years.
Carl
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