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[Non-DoD Source] Re: Re: Air charging valve?

 
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 8:55 am    Post subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Re: Air charging valve? Reply with quote

As explained to me by a few Russians, some would use the chart, and some would not. One procedure was to activate the switch with the engine running at idle. Keep the switch held until you saw the very beginning of a slight reduction in oil pressure, then stop and immediately shut off the engine. Of course (as was said below) adding fuel to the oil lowered the viscosity until the next start. AFTER the next start, you remained at idle until oil temp was fully up to operating temperature, with the assumption that at that point the fuel would have been "burnt off" (per se) and you were left with pure oil again. If there is no other way to go, this is a viable method. The bad side being that oil that is too thick is bad... but then so is oil that is too thin. I don't know of anyone that is using this system, and mine is REMOVED. (Fewer hoses to go bad).

However, we do have other ways to go! EZ-HEAT pads on the oil tank, the sump and the oil cooler, along with a veritherm installed in the oil cooler are a much safer way to go.

This topic has been discussed at length in the past, you might want to look at the archives.

Mark
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jbsoar(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 12:42 pm    Post subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Re: Air charging valve? Reply with quote

Mark-I'm thinking of perhaps removing mine as well.  Yes, fewer hoses.  Too, a simple on-off switch could then energize the shower-of-sparks, providing one less thing to mess up in the cockpit.  Is there a fitting on the engine that can be removed?  Or just hoses that are removed?
John B
On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 9:53 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)> wrote:
[quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>

As explained to me by a few Russians, some would use the chart, and some would not.  One procedure was to activate the switch with the engine running at idle.  Keep the switch held until you saw the very beginning of a slight reduction in oil pressure, then stop and immediately shut off the engine.  Of course (as was said below) adding fuel to the oil lowered the viscosity until the next start.  AFTER the next start, you remained at idle until oil temp was fully up to operating temperature, with the assumption that at that point the fuel would have been "burnt off" (per se) and you were left with pure oil again.   If there is no other way to go, this is a viable method.   The bad side being that oil that is too thick is bad... but then so is oil that is too thin.   I don't know of anyone that is using this system, and mine is REMOVED. (Fewer hoses to go bad).

However, we do have other ways to go!  EZ-HEAT pads on the oil tank, the sump and the oil cooler, along with a veritherm installed in the oil cooler are a much safer way to go.

This topic has been discussed at length in the past, you might want to look at the archives.

Mark


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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 1:16 pm    Post subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Re: Air charging valve? Reply with quote

Most people remove and cap all the hoses and fittings for that system.

" Too, a simple on-off switch could then energize the shower-of-sparks, providing one less thing to mess up in the cockpit"

Ok, you lost me on that one. I'm not sure why you want to do that? The shower of sparks is wired to the start switch so that you energize it, at the same time you open the start air solenoid. The shower of sparks is fed to a unique connection on the mag cap rotor, which in turn provides a retarded spark for easier starting. Once the engine starts and the mag is providing spark, releasing the starter button turns off shower of sparks and the mag is providing spark at "normal" advance, the actual value being dependent on exactly what model of mag you have installed.

" Is there a fitting on the engine that can be removed? Or just hoses that are removed"

Typically the hoses are removed and screw-on caps are put on the fittings that remain on the engine. That being said, you could also remove the fittings and put in threaded plugs I suppose. For me it was just easier to cap the fittings that remained on the engine.

Mark
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cjpilot710(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 3:10 pm    Post subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Re: Air charging valve? Reply with quote

God I love aviation!!!  Been in 60 years AND still learning the old stuff.  Leave it to the Cannooks (God.bless'm) to figure it out.
Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S® 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>
Date: 1/26/2016 16:12 (GMT-05:00)
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Yak-List: Re: Air charging valve?

--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>

Most people remove and cap all the hoses and fittings for that system.  

" Too, a simple on-off switch could then energize the shower-of-sparks, providing one less thing to mess up in the cockpit"

Ok, you lost me on that one.  I'm not sure why you want to do that?  The shower of sparks is wired to the start switch so that you energize it, at the same time you open the start air solenoid.   The shower of sparks is fed to a unique connection on the mag cap rotor, which in turn provides a retarded spark for easier starting.  Once the engine starts and the mag is providing spark, releasing the starter button turns off shower of sparks and the mag is providing spark at "normal" advance, the actual value being dependent on exactly what model of mag you have installed. 

" Is there a fitting on the engine that can be removed?  Or just hoses that are removed"

Typically the hoses are removed and screw-on  caps are put on the fittings that remain on the engine.  That being said, you could also remove the fittings and put in threaded plugs I suppose.  For me it was just easier to cap the fittings that remained on the engine. 

Mark
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cjpilot710(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 3:15 pm    Post subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Re: Air charging valve? Reply with quote

BTW I used my dilution valve as part of my smoke system.  Hooked in series with my smoke pump, it opens when I turn on my pump.
Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S® 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>
Date: 1/26/2016 16:12 (GMT-05:00)
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Yak-List: Re: Air charging valve?

--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>

Most people remove and cap all the hoses and fittings for that system.  

" Too, a simple on-off switch could then energize the shower-of-sparks, providing one less thing to mess up in the cockpit"

Ok, you lost me on that one.  I'm not sure why you want to do that?  The shower of sparks is wired to the start switch so that you energize it, at the same time you open the start air solenoid.   The shower of sparks is fed to a unique connection on the mag cap rotor, which in turn provides a retarded spark for easier starting.  Once the engine starts and the mag is providing spark, releasing the starter button turns off shower of sparks and the mag is providing spark at "normal" advance, the actual value being dependent on exactly what model of mag you have installed. 

" Is there a fitting on the engine that can be removed?  Or just hoses that are removed"

Typically the hoses are removed and screw-on  caps are put on the fittings that remain on the engine.  That being said, you could also remove the fittings and put in threaded plugs I suppose.  For me it was just easier to cap the fittings that remained on the engine. 

Mark
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 8:18 am    Post subject: [Non-DoD Source] Re: Re: Air charging valve? Reply with quote

Excellent idea!

However, I have to give the Russians credit for thinking of it first. They use the same exact valve on the SU-26 for their smoke system as well. The Russian smoke system is pretty unique. They tap the high pressure air tank, insert an air pressure regulator to take the pressure down to 13 PSI or so, then run to a valve going into the smoke tank, and then another valve coming OUT of the smoke tank that is near the oil nozzles themselves at the exhaust stacks. The initial turn-on takes about two seconds for smoke as the tank pressurizes, but after that it is almost instantaneous, and when you turn it off, there is very little residual flow because you have that 2nd valve right near the nozzles. Very well thought out and works GREAT, as long as the pressure regulator is up to snuff, which oftentimes it is not.

Smile

Mark
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