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Modified Nose Wheel Upgrade

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ronko(at)att.net
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Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 7:42 am Post subject: Modified Nose Wheel Upgrade

Pulsar Friends,

After making the nose wheel modification with the 4160 steel tube and using a grade 5, 5/8-11 bolt, several years ago and over 150 sets of take off and landings since, I noticed after last Sunday's uneventful, smooth flight that when I was putting the Pulsar away in the hanger that the nose wheel seemed a bit tilted.  I raised the plane to take off the nose wheel to first notice that the Belleville washers were not doing anything, a gap had formed, and it was loose (surprising, I never noticed caster wobble on take off or landings).  Then when I pulled the cotter pin, removed the castle nut and removed the wheel and bolt, I found the 5/8" grade 5, bolt to be bent.  See attached picture.  The fork with the welded steel tube looked to be in perfect condition.  I showed my bent grade 5 bolt and wheel fork assembly to a car racing fanatic at the airport and he said, I would replace that bolt with a grade 8, that's what we used in our race cars for areas where ultimate strength is needed.  I also dialogued with Bob Hartunian and found out he has a grade 8 in his nose wheel modification.  I have a grade 8, bolt ready to go in but I should be getting the carbide tipped drill bit for drilling the hole for the cotter pin in this extremely hardend steel bolt.  2 brand new titanium nitride coated high speed drill bits could barely make a dent in the grade 8 bolt in a drill press with a drill press vise.

Note, I land on nicely paved runways, mains touch first under 60mph then hold off the nosewheel until the elevator looses compensation and have over 350 sets of take off and landing on the cheep lamb main tires.  I think the most abuse the nose wheel gets is taxing.  One taxi way at my airport is terrible, but fortunately I don't have to use it much.

I throw this out there, for those who have made the 5/8" bolt mod, to inspect the bolt for any signs of bending.

Best regards,

Ronko

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Chillyz

Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 9
Location: Poway, CA

Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 10:55 am Post subject: Re: Modified Nose Wheel Upgrade

Hi Ronko,

What model Pulsar are you flying? I'm building a Pulsar 3.  Is the nose gear mod a fit for this particular model? Can you provide photos of your nose gear section of your aircraft.  I'm still a long way from finishing but never hurts to modify to a stronger nose gear. All about safety.  Thanks,



Frank

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pilot623(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 11:41 am Post subject: Modified Nose Wheel Upgrade

Hi Frank,



I fly an AD Series 2 with Skystar's Series 3 firewall forward and can tell

you the nosegear that came with your kit is totally different than the ones

they've been talking about that have had various failures and revisions. I

have not heard of the Series 3 nosegear failing in any way. The nosegear and

fork were engineered somewhat beefier than its predecessors.



Jim



--

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lwheat2083

Joined: 03 Jan 2014
Posts: 33
Location: Moses Lake, Washington

Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 1:33 pm Post subject: Modified Nose Wheel Upgrade

I have finished and did fly the Pulsar III. It is now in Mesa Arizona at a new home. Let me say that the airplane is rock solid in the air. I have videos of all my test flights on YouTube, Just search Pulsar III test flights. Anyway, the nose gear on the Pulsar III is the latest and very strong gear. I did make a mod however and it involves changing the way the pivot strut is mounted. Instead of the stainless firewall I replaced it with a .035 piece of aluminum. I did not like the way the attachment of the gear was only 4 points which were the fiberglass perimeter of the fuselage. I anchored not only the four called for BUT also 3 more attach points vertical on the firewall. I then bolted the fire way around the circumference of the fuselage. This distributed the forces all around the fuselage instead of just 4 points. If you like I have a myriad of picks on the installation. Just a point to consider. Cheers, Larry N853LW J250 Moses Lake, Washington USA 206 819-2352

On Mar 28, 2016, at 11:55 AM, Chillyz <mypulsar3(at)gmail.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Hi Ronko,

 What model Pulsar are you flying? I'm building a Pulsar 3.  Is the nose gear mod a fit for this particular model? Can you provide photos of your nose gear section of your aircraft.  I'm still a long way from finishing but never hurts to modify to a stronger nose gear. All about safety.  Thanks,

 

 Frank

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=454272#454272

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Eclat2

Joined: 06 Sep 2013
Posts: 13
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA

Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 1:21 pm Post subject: Re: Modified Nose Wheel Upgrade

Common 'graded' hardware, like Grade 5 & 8, is pretty ordinary stuff available at most hardware stores.   It's not bleeding edge technology.   Grade 8 is stronger (harder / stiffer) than Grade 5,  but it's not really 'strong' in the overall spectrum of high strength hardware.   If you want strong, then don't buy from your local hardware store.



The major difference between Grades 5 & 8 is hardness,  and stiffness comes along with that.   When overstressed, Grade 5 will bend, but it won't break and fall off.   Ronko's nose wheel assembly bent, but it didn't fall off, and his last landing was an uneventful one... which is a good thing in many ways.



Had he used a Grade 8, the bolt probably wouldn't have bent when the Grade 5 one did.   But if it ever did receive a load that caused to to fail, it might have broken and parts might have fallen off.   Personally, I'd rather have a crooked wheel than no wheel.



The better solution than 'Graded' hardware would be to use a truly high-strength bolt, available from Aircraft Spruce, Leaf, Earl's, etc.   The downside there is that if everything else is built on the aircraft ragged edge of lightness, then the failure point would move on up into the landing gear leg somewhere.



Personally, I like the idea of having something that gives without breaking, like the Grade 5 bolt.   Couple that with regular inspections, and the chances of an actual 'break' failure should be minimized.   Replacing a bolt once in a while isn't a hardship if it also means nothing falls of in flight, and that I can count on having landing gear when I touch down.



I'm also into motorsports, and use Grade 5 suspension bolts.   If a Grade 5 bends too easily, I go to a larger Grade 5.   But I don't go to something brittle that might actually 'break' as a failure mode, and pitch me off into the weeds.



Just my opinion...

Tim

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