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dlm34077
Joined: 10 Feb 2007 Posts: 115 Location: AZ
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carl.froehlich(at)verizon Guest
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 3:57 pm Post subject: cable lengths |
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I still use the Van’s cables but I have always run them inside a small diameter fire sleeve where they pass under the engine – same with the alternator and starter cables. This has worked well over 14 years.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 7:33 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: cable lengths
You might want to special order some cables from aircraft spruce. They make a Teflon core version about $200 each, but you will not have to change them since the internal cores do not melt and become stiff and unmovable. Also add 1-2” to Vans length, better an inch too much than an inch too little depending on your routing. It is a pain to change a cable with the engine in place. Be sure and use the stainless/aluminum fixture to better seal the
FF heat out of the cabin.
Virus-free. www.avast.com
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007 Posts: 2879
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 5:00 pm Post subject: cable lengths |
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This is from my RV-14 install that I just did, it's basically what Carl is talking about.
I got silver firesleeve just like you use on hoses. 1/2" fit well over the cable.
Sealed the ends with high temp RTV.
http://www.myrv14.com/buildlog/20160428/RV14160420-173853-076.jpg
Then on Amazon is this 3/4" silver wrap that says it's good for 1000F continuous,
and 2000F intermittent if I remember right. The silver does a good job of
rejecting the heat.
I wish I would have done this on my original RV-10 install.
Tim
On 5/13/2016 6:54 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
Quote: | v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} <![endif]--> <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
I still use the Van’s cables but I have always run them inside a small diameter fire sleeve where they pass under the engine – same with the alternator and starter cables. This has worked well over 14 years.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 7:33 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: cable lengths
You might want to special order some cables from aircraft spruce. They make a Teflon core version about $200 each, but you will not have to change them since the internal cores do not melt and become stiff and unmovable. Also add 1-2” to Vans length, better an inch too much than an inch too little depending on your routing. It is a pain to change a cable with the engine in place. Be sure and use the stainless/aluminum fixture to better seal the
FF heat out of the cabin.
Virus-free. www.avast.com
|
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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Lenny Iszak
Joined: 23 Mar 2008 Posts: 270
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Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 5:45 pm Post subject: Re: cable lengths |
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Just removed my cables. They are all sticky, but the cover at the end of the mixture cable is melted. The next set will be firesleeved as Tim suggested.
Van's cables would have worked just fine if i would have protected them from heat. They used to be nice and smooth for about 20-30 hours.
Lenny
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 10:35 pm Post subject: cable lengths |
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Tim
Do you have any photos of your fire sleeved mixture, throttle and/or pitch cables please?
Would you recommend doing all three?
Warm regards
Patrick
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Sun May 15, 2016 10:39 pm Post subject: cable lengths |
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Please disregard my previous email Tim, thank you for the image.
Have you fire sleeved all three cables?
Warm regards
Patrick
On 14 May 2016, at 10:59, Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)> wrote:
Quote: | This is from my RV-14 install that I just did, it's basically what Carl is talking about.
I got silver firesleeve just like you use on hoses. 1/2" fit well over the cable.
Sealed the ends with high temp RTV.
http://www.myrv14.com/buildlog/20160428/RV14160420-173853-076.jpg
Then on Amazon is this 3/4" silver wrap that says it's good for 1000F continuous,
and 2000F intermittent if I remember right. The silver does a good job of
rejecting the heat.
I wish I would have done this on my original RV-10 install.
Tim
On 5/13/2016 6:54 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
Quote: | v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} <![endif]--> <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
I still use the Van’s cables but I have always run them inside a small diameter fire sleeve where they pass under the engine – same with the alternator and starter cables. This has worked well over 14 years.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 7:33 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: cable lengths
You might want to special order some cables from aircraft spruce. They make a Teflon core version about $200 each, but you will not have to change them since the internal cores do not melt and become stiff and unmovable. Also add 1-2” to Vans length, better an inch too much than an inch too little depending on your routing. It is a pain to change a cable with the engine in place. Be sure and use the stainless/aluminum fixture to better seal the
FF heat out of the cabin.
Virus-free. www.avast.com
|
|
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007 Posts: 2879
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Posted: Mon May 16, 2016 1:58 am Post subject: cable lengths |
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On the RV10 I believe I did 2 or 3'of them. I can't remember off hand. I would probably do any of them that come within 8-12" of the exhaust. It can't hurt but may help just for longevity: on the RV14 I am doing I did them all for sure.
Tim
On May 16, 2016, at 1:35 AM, Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au (rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au)> wrote:
Quote: | Please disregard my previous email Tim, thank you for the image.
Have you fire sleeved all three cables?
Warm regards
Patrick
On 14 May 2016, at 10:59, Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)> wrote:
Quote: | This is from my RV-14 install that I just did, it's basically what Carl is talking about.
I got silver firesleeve just like you use on hoses. 1/2" fit well over the cable.
Sealed the ends with high temp RTV.
http://www.myrv14.com/buildlog/20160428/RV14160420-173853-076.jpg
Then on Amazon is this 3/4" silver wrap that says it's good for 1000F continuous,
and 2000F intermittent if I remember right. The silver does a good job of
rejecting the heat.
I wish I would have done this on my original RV-10 install.
Tim
On 5/13/2016 6:54 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
Quote: | v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} <![endif]--> <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
I still use the Van’s cables but I have always run them inside a small diameter fire sleeve where they pass under the engine – same with the alternator and starter cables. This has worked well over 14 years.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 7:33 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: cable lengths
You might want to special order some cables from aircraft spruce. They make a Teflon core version about $200 each, but you will not have to change them since the internal cores do not melt and become stiff and unmovable. Also add 1-2” to Vans length, better an inch too much than an inch too little depending on your routing. It is a pain to change a cable with the engine in place. Be sure and use the stainless/aluminum fixture to better seal the
FF heat out of the cabin.
Virus-free. www.avast.com
|
|
|
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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