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terrycalloway(at)mac.com
Guest

Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 12:52 pm Post subject: Yak-List:

I recommend Avcraft in Columbus, NE. Ask for Keith or Bob. 402-564-7884. 

Been using them for years.  The do a great job. 

Pumper



Sent from my iPad



On May 20, 2016, at 3:25 PM, Robert Schwartz <schwartzcompany(at)att.net (schwartzcompany(at)att.net)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Looking for an experienced yak 52 mechanic in chicago Midwest region. Any suggestions. 



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Ernie

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 513

Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 2:03 pm Post subject: Yak-List:

Hmmmm, prior to my purchasing my airplane, those guys injected ACF-50 into my air system, ultimately dissolving all the rubber in the check valves, and other air components. No speculation, they thought it was such a good idea they put in the log book.



Ernie

On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 4:51 PM, Terry Calloway <terrycalloway(at)mac.com (terrycalloway(at)mac.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  I recommend Avcraft in Columbus, NE. Ask for Keith or Bob. [url=tel:402-564-7884]402-564-7884[/url]. 

Been using them for years.  The do a great job. 

Pumper



Sent from my iPad



On May 20, 2016, at 3:25 PM, Robert Schwartz <schwartzcompany(at)att.net (schwartzcompany(at)att.net)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Looking for an experienced yak 52 mechanic in chicago Midwest region. Any suggestions. 



Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

terrycalloway(at)mac.com
Guest

Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 2:55 pm Post subject: Yak-List:

I'm sure they appreciate the complement from such a knowledgable source and stand by the original recommendation. Avcraft does a great job. 

TC



Sent from my iPad



On May 20, 2016, at 5:02 PM, Ernest Martinez <erniel29(at)gmail.com (erniel29(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Hmmmm, prior to my purchasing my airplane, those guys injected ACF-50 into my air system, ultimately dissolving all the rubber in the check valves, and other air components. No speculation, they thought it was such a good idea they put in the log book.



Ernie

On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 4:51 PM, Terry Calloway <terrycalloway(at)mac.com (terrycalloway(at)mac.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  I recommend Avcraft in Columbus, NE. Ask for Keith or Bob. [url=tel:402-564-7884]402-564-7884[/url]. 

Been using them for years.  The do a great job. 

Pumper



Sent from my iPad



On May 20, 2016, at 3:25 PM, Robert Schwartz <schwartzcompany(at)att.net (schwartzcompany(at)att.net)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Looking for an experienced yak 52 mechanic in chicago Midwest region. Any suggestions. 



Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

Ernie

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 513

Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 5:46 pm Post subject: Yak-List:

Why thank you for that heart felt endorsement of my insights to aircraft maintenance. I bet you're a Trump Supporter as well 😬



On Friday, May 20, 2016, Terry Calloway <terrycalloway(at)mac.com (terrycalloway(at)mac.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  I'm sure they appreciate the complement from such a knowledgable source and stand by the original recommendation. Avcraft does a great job. 

TC



Sent from my iPad



On May 20, 2016, at 5:02 PM, Ernest Martinez <[url=javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','erniel29(at)gmail.com');]erniel29(at)gmail.com[/url]> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Hmmmm, prior to my purchasing my airplane, those guys injected ACF-50 into my air system, ultimately dissolving all the rubber in the check valves, and other air components. No speculation, they thought it was such a good idea they put in the log book.



Ernie

On Fri, May 20, 2016 at 4:51 PM, Terry Calloway <[url=javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','terrycalloway(at)mac.com');]terrycalloway(at)mac.com[/url]> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  I recommend Avcraft in Columbus, NE. Ask for Keith or Bob. [url=tel:402-564-7884]402-564-7884[/url]. 

Been using them for years.  The do a great job. 

Pumper



Sent from my iPad



On May 20, 2016, at 3:25 PM, Robert Schwartz <[url=javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','schwartzcompany(at)att.net');]schwartzcompany(at)att.net[/url]> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Looking for an experienced yak 52 mechanic in chicago Midwest region. Any suggestions. 



Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
Guest

Posted: Tue May 31, 2016 7:02 am Post subject: Yak-List:

Unfortunately, the rivets on the outside of the cover have to be removed.  There are 10mm nuts on the other side of the countersunk screws.  (



Dennis



       From: "schwartzcompany(at)att.net" <schwartzcompany(at)att.net>

 To: yak-list(at)matronics.com 

 Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 10:35 AM

 Subject: 

  

 



 I have a question. Does the outside of the wheel, Part facing away from hub come off. I need to access the nuts to remove the brake drum from the wheel. There are some clips on outside of hubcap side of wheel. Or do rivets have to be drilled out to access from that side

 Thanks



  

  

  

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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
Guest

Posted: Tue May 31, 2016 7:06 am Post subject: Yak-List:

I forgot to mention, if you remove the cover, you'll have two choices.  1 - reinstall the cover and if you choose this option you may want to try drilling and tapping out the rivets with a 4mm tape.  Reinstall the cover using 4mm button head screws.  Makes for easy removal should you ever have to do it again.  Option 2 - fabricate an inner disc, large enough to cover the felt seal and attach it to the hub using the above drill and tap method.  You'll need to do this to make sure the felt grease seal is in place.

Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Dennis



       From: "schwartzcompany(at)att.net" <schwartzcompany(at)att.net>

 To: yak-list(at)matronics.com 

 Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 10:35 AM

 Subject: 

  

 



 I have a question. Does the outside of the wheel, Part facing away from hub come off. I need to access the nuts to remove the brake drum from the wheel. There are some clips on outside of hubcap side of wheel. Or do rivets have to be drilled out to access from that side

 Thanks



  

  

  

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L29delfin(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Tue May 31, 2016 7:43 am Post subject: Yak-List:

Is there a special wrench for accessing these nuts without splitting wheel  

  

On May 31, 2016 10:13:11 AM "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net> wrote:  	  Quote: 	
		   Unfortunately, the rivets on the outside of the cover have to be removed.  There are 10mm nuts on the other side of the countersunk screws.  (



Dennis



       From: "schwartzcompany(at)att.net" <schwartzcompany(at)att.net>

 To: yak-list(at)matronics.com 

 Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 10:35 AM

 Subject: 

  

 



 I have a question. Does the outside of the wheel, Part facing away from hub come off. I need to access the nuts to remove the brake drum from the wheel. There are some clips on outside of hubcap side of wheel. Or do rivets have to be drilled out to access from that side

 Thanks



  

  

  

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dougsappllc(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Tue May 31, 2016 8:05 am Post subject: Yak-List:

You really do not need to remove the hubcap to change out the drake drums, but you will need to fashion a special 90 degree wrench.  

The "rivets" are not rivets, they are steel drive pins, not unlike the ones used to attach data tags on Lyc and Cont. engines.  If you try to drill them out you will, unless everything goes 100% correctly and you are real good with a drill, ruin the wheel or at the least make it impossible to reinstall the hubcap properly.  To properly remove the drive pins you will need a pair of end cut wire cutters.  Grind the face flat so that the jaws contact the head of the drive pin as close to the hub cap as possible.  Squeeze down firmly but not hard enough to cut off the head, and turn the cutters counter clockwise and the pins will unscrew out of the wheel.



Hope this helps.

Doug

On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 7:35 AM,  <schwartzcompany(at)att.net (schwartzcompany(at)att.net)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

 

I have a question. Does the outside of the wheel, Part facing away from hub come off. I need to access the nuts to remove the brake drum from the wheel. There are some clips on outside of hubcap side of wheel. Or do rivets have to be drilled out to access from that side

 Thanks

 

 

  

   

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L29delfin(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Tue May 31, 2016 8:25 am Post subject: Yak-List:

Thanks  

  

On May 31, 2016 11:16:49 AM doug sapp <dougsappllc(at)gmail.com> wrote:  	  Quote: 	
		   You really do not need to remove the hubcap to change out the drake drums, but you will need to fashion a special 90 degree wrench.  

The "rivets" are not rivets, they are steel drive pins, not unlike the ones used to attach data tags on Lyc and Cont. engines.  If you try to drill them out you will, unless everything goes 100% correctly and you are real good with a drill, ruin the wheel or at the least make it impossible to reinstall the hubcap properly.  To properly remove the drive pins you will need a pair of end cut wire cutters.  Grind the face flat so that the jaws contact the head of the drive pin as close to the hub cap as possible.  Squeeze down firmly but not hard enough to cut off the head, and turn the cutters counter clockwise and the pins will unscrew out of the wheel.



Hope this helps.

Doug

On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 7:35 AM,  <schwartzcompany(at)att.net (schwartzcompany(at)att.net)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

 

I have a question. Does the outside of the wheel, Part facing away from hub come off. I need to access the nuts to remove the brake drum from the wheel. There are some clips on outside of hubcap side of wheel. Or do rivets have to be drilled out to access from that side

 Thanks

 

 

  

   

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cjpilot710(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Tue May 31, 2016 1:16 pm Post subject: Yak-List:

I wish someone had told me this years ago when I 

"drilled" out my  pins.

 Jim "Pappy" Goolsby

  

  In a message dated 5/31/2016 12:05:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  dougsappllc(at)gmail.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		        You really do not need to remove the hubcap to change out the drake    drums, but you will need to fashion a special 90 degree wrench.  

   



The "rivets" are not rivets, they are steel drive pins, not    unlike the ones used to attach data tags on Lyc and Cont. engines.  If    you try to drill them out you will, unless everything goes 100% correctly and    you are real good with a drill, ruin the wheel or at the least make it    impossible to reinstall the hubcap properly.  To properly remove the    drive pins you will need a pair of end cut wire cutters.  Grind the face    flat so that the jaws contact the head of the drive pin as close to the hub    cap as possible.  Squeeze down firmly but not hard enough to cut off the    head, and turn the cutters counter clockwise and the pins will unscrew out of    the wheel.    



   Hope this helps.

   



   Doug



   

   On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 7:35 AM, <schwartzcompany(at)att.net (schwartzcompany(at)att.net)> wrote:

    	  Quote: 	
		       

     

I have a question. Does the outside of the wheel, Part facing      away from hub come off. I need to access the nuts to remove the brake drum      from the wheel. There are some clips on outside of hubcap side of wheel. Or      do rivets have to be drilled out to access from that side

Thanks

     

     

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Dawg

Joined: 19 May 2013
Posts: 355

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 12:14 pm Post subject: Yak-List:

Bigger hammer



Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.



-------- Original message --------

From: schwartzcompany(at)att.net 

Date:06/03/2016  12:47  (GMT-07:00) 

To: yak-list(at)matronics.com 

Cc:  

Subject: Yak-List: 

Trying to install new inner outer main wheels grease seals yak 52. I can't get the metal center piece back in after new outer seal. Seems to thick. Suggestions? 

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_________________
Dawg

rmhou(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:50 pm Post subject: Yak-List:

For Dennis website:

Maintenance



        <![endif]-->    <![endif]-->       

    <![endif]-->              Maintenance  

             

 

    On Monday, June 6, 2016 2:39 PM, "schwartzcompany(at)att.net" <schwartzcompany(at)att.net> wrote:



  



  

 Can someone post the emergency gear blow down test on jacks procedure to avoid the gear slamming down or up. I recall first bleed main air to equal or lower than emergency side

 Bob

  

  

  

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richard.goode(at)russiana
Guest

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 3:50 am Post subject: Yak-List:

While I suspect there are good sources of this in the US, it took us a lot of research to find a European source for high quality homes when our Russian supplies dried up. But we now have a good source, and charge Euro 45 – today $58 for sufficient material for the 18 tubes. They are 2 mm smaller outside diameter, so we have a supply nice plated clamps which are Euro 32 ($41) for 18.

 

Richard Goode Aerobatics

Rhodds Farm

Lyonshall

Hereford

HR5 3LW

 

Tel:  +44 (0) 1544 340120

Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129

www.russianaeros.com

 

From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Schwartz

Sent: 08 June 2016 21:22

To: yak-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Yak-List:



 

Looking for a source of fresh high quality metric hose for the pushrods on yak 52 engine

Thanks

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