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Under Sized Wire

 
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user9253



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 1927
Location: Riley TWP Michigan

PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 3:34 am    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

On page 20 of the October 2016 issue of Kitplanes Magazine, the author wrote,
Quote:
"On one very nicely equipped RV-10, there was a 14 AWG wire being used as the main feed from the alternator. It was not only improperly sized, but also a potential fire hazard, as it was attached to a 60-amp alternator breaker. Clearly, the wire would have melted before the breaker could have activated."
I agree that the wire was very undersized and would get very hot. But would it actually melt?


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racerjerry



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 4:05 am    Post subject: Re: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

The REAL problem is smoke in the cockpit, shortly followed by incapacitation. Incapacitation happens long before the wire insulation turns to snot.

Aircraft wire MUCH BETTER - avoid auto parts store PVC insulated wire.

Use AC 43.13-1B as a guide and you will not go wrong.
Available here:
http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentID/99861


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Kellym



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 7:07 am    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

Not sure whether the builder ever saw Van's wiring diagram for the
RV-10, and certainly could not have purchased the optional wiring kit.
it uses AWG 8 aircraft wire for alternator to bus, and 8 AWG for starter
relay to bus, so both battery feed and alternator feed to bus is
appropriate. Master relay to starter relay is 2 AWG. My RV-10 runs about
15 amps with everything in the panel plus strobes and nav lights,
landing lights or pitot heat each add about 10 amps. Battery recharge
after start will up the flow to a bit over 40 amps for a few minutes.
Never have seen the current output of alternator get close to the rated
60 amps. I suppose a night start with landing lights needed could get there.

On 8/28/2016 5:05 AM, racerjerry wrote:
Quote:


The REAL problem is smoke in the cockpit, shortly followed by incapacitation. Incapacitation happens long before the wire insulation turns to snot.

Aircraft wire MUCH BETTER - avoid auto parts store PVC insulated wire.

Use AC 43.13-1B as a guide and you will not go wrong.
Available here:
http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentID/99861

--------
Jerry King


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=459975#459975




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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 7:29 am    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

Just FYI, after losing my first two alternators I upgraded to the Plane
Power 70 amp. I left the 60amp breaker in the feed line. Worked
fine....until I was on a long trip to FLA and it tripped the breaker. Three
times......after take off and I think it was related to keying up the mic.
Also, it happened on the second leg of the day....hot day....engine heat
soaked.

I upgraded to a 70 AMP breaker.....all is fine.

My amp meter measures the flow to and from the main battery. So no real
help there in determining if I was really seeing 70 amps. My calculated max
load is nowhere near that....

Rene'
801-721-6080

--


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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 7:35 am    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

Note that all context was lost in replying to an email that only
included advice to avoid PVC insulated wire (which isn't really that big
a deal; there's just better stuff available now).

On the subject of using 14awg wire on a 60 amp alternator: The point is
not what is a typical draw; it's what the wire could potentially see.
The mantra is: size the wire for the load (which can be a bit more than
the *rated* capacity of the alternator, if the battery happened to be
really low, or there were lots of loads like landing lights, pitot heat,
etc), then fuse to protect the wire.

And none of us has answered the original question: Would the wire melt?
I don't know the answer for sure, but I do recall the rule of thumb for
fuseable links: make the link 4 wire sizes under the wire size you're
protecting. Ex: a #12 fuseable link wire protects a #8 wire. So, if a #8
is actually needed, #14 sounds like a quick blow fuse to me.

Charlie

On 8/28/2016 10:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
Quote:

<kellym(at)aviating.com>

Not sure whether the builder ever saw Van's wiring diagram for the
RV-10, and certainly could not have purchased the optional wiring kit.
it uses AWG 8 aircraft wire for alternator to bus, and 8 AWG for
starter relay to bus, so both battery feed and alternator feed to bus
is appropriate. Master relay to starter relay is 2 AWG. My RV-10 runs
about 15 amps with everything in the panel plus strobes and nav
lights, landing lights or pitot heat each add about 10 amps. Battery
recharge after start will up the flow to a bit over 40 amps for a few
minutes. Never have seen the current output of alternator get close to
the rated 60 amps. I suppose a night start with landing lights needed
could get there.

On 8/28/2016 5:05 AM, racerjerry wrote:
>
> <gnking2(at)verizon.net>
>
> The REAL problem is smoke in the cockpit, shortly followed by
> incapacitation. Incapacitation happens long before the wire
> insulation turns to snot.
>
> Aircraft wire MUCH BETTER - avoid auto parts store PVC insulated wire.
>
> Use AC 43.13-1B as a guide and you will not go wrong.
> Available here:
> http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentID/99861
> --------
> Jerry King


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 7:58 am    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

At 06:34 AM 8/28/2016, you wrote:
Quote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "user9253" <fransew(at)gmail.com>

On page 20 of the October 2016 issue of Kitplanes Magazine, the author wrote,
> "On one very nicely equipped RV-10, there was a 14 AWG wire being used as the main feed from the alternator. It was not only improperly sized, but also a potential fire hazard, as it was attached to a 60-amp alternator breaker. Clearly, the wire would have melted before the breaker could have activated."
I agree that the wire was very undersized and would get very hot. But would it actually melt?

Interesting question. You may recall the experiment
I conducted on a 20 AMP load through a 22AWG Tefzel
wire on the workbench some years back.

While the wire did run hot (and voltage drop was
no doubt higher than one would like) the jacket
temperature stabilized well below maximum ratings for
the insulation.

http://tinyurl.com/6qr72fr

I suspect a 14AWG hanging out in open
air would not be seriously challenged for
survival at 60A . . . but running the
wire into bundles of other wires would
have a profound influence on its
ability to reject heat.

Wire ratings are not so much a function
of the copper but of the insulation,
energy dissipated in the wire, temperature
rise due to dissipation of that energy
and ability to dump BTUs off into the
environment. Insulation . . . and materials
in contact with that insulation are the
potential victims at risk.


Bob . . .


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 8:06 am    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

Yes the wire will melt -or-not depending on its gauge and the amount of overload.

If my memory serves me correctly the fanles specify that a particular gauge will handle a particular amperage and with these variables will increase its temperature by so many degrees

The wire won't melt until the temperature gets to the melting point of copper or whatever material it is made of. However the heat rise can cause all types of hurt as it starts to degrade the insulation and you get the characteristic electrical fire smell.
Bundled wires have a smaller rating as the heat produced can effect adjacent wires

So with a slight overload the wires will
Probably not melt

A larger gauge will of course maintain more heat and possibly become a greater hazard

Now add the situation of an undersized wire and a large current flow and it will indeed melt explosively-- or "fuse" which will Break the circuit. In fact thrall is what a fuse or fusable link is. The difference is that they are usually thermally protected and placed in a safe access able area

Rich

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Aug 28, 2016, at 10:37 AM, Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> wrote:



Note that all context was lost in replying to an email that only included advice to avoid PVC insulated wire (which isn't really that big a deal; there's just better stuff available now).

On the subject of using 14awg wire on a 60 amp alternator: The point is not what is a typical draw; it's what the wire could potentially see. The mantra is: size the wire for the load (which can be a bit more than the *rated* capacity of the alternator, if the battery happened to be really low, or there were lots of loads like landing lights, pitot heat, etc), then fuse to protect the wire.

And none of us has answered the original question: Would the wire melt? I don't know the answer for sure, but I do recall the rule of thumb for fuseable links: make the link 4 wire sizes under the wire size you're protecting. Ex: a #12 fuseable link wire protects a #8 wire. So, if a #8 is actually needed, #14 sounds like a quick blow fuse to me.

Charlie

> On 8/28/2016 10:05 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>
> Not sure whether the builder ever saw Van's wiring diagram for the RV-10, and certainly could not have purchased the optional wiring kit. it uses AWG 8 aircraft wire for alternator to bus, and 8 AWG for starter relay to bus, so both battery feed and alternator feed to bus is appropriate. Master relay to starter relay is 2 AWG. My RV-10 runs about 15 amps with everything in the panel plus strobes and nav lights, landing lights or pitot heat each add about 10 amps. Battery recharge after start will up the flow to a bit over 40 amps for a few minutes. Never have seen the current output of alternator get close to the rated 60 amps. I suppose a night start with landing lights needed could get there.
>
>> On 8/28/2016 5:05 AM, racerjerry wrote:
>>
>>
>> The REAL problem is smoke in the cockpit, shortly followed by incapacitation. Incapacitation happens long before the wire insulation turns to snot.
>>
>> Aircraft wire MUCH BETTER - avoid auto parts store PVC insulated wire.
>>
>> Use AC 43.13-1B as a guide and you will not go wrong.
>> Available here:
>> http://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/advisory_circulars/index.cfm/go/document.information/documentID/99861
>>
>> --------
>> Jerry King







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Kellym



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 1:11 pm    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

I never saw the context with regard to PVC insulation. Not in the
Kitplanes article,nor other messages here. The subject line was and is
undersized wire. 14 AWG will carry 60 amps, especially if the run is
short, for some period of time, probably not a long time. Question is
whether the resistance generates more heat than the insulation can
dissipate, and melts the insulation. Likely the load IS quite variable
and steady state is no more than 80 percent of alternator capacity, more
likely 30 percent.

On 8/28/2016 8:37 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Quote:

<ceengland7(at)gmail.com>

Note that all context was lost in replying to an email that only
included advice to avoid PVC insulated wire (which isn't really that big
a deal; there's just better stuff available now).


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 5:37 pm    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

At 10:28 AM 8/28/2016, you wrote:
Quote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>

Just FYI, after losing my first two alternators I upgraded to the Plane
Power 70 amp. I left the 60amp breaker in the feed line. Worked
fine....until I was on a long trip to FLA and it tripped the breaker. Three
times......after take off and I think it was related to keying up the mic.
Also, it happened on the second leg of the day....hot day....engine heat
soaked.

I upgraded to a 70 AMP breaker.....all is fine.

My amp meter measures the flow to and from the main battery. So no real
help there in determining if I was really seeing 70 amps. My calculated max
load is nowhere near that....

This kinda has the 'smell' of a faulty
breaker . . . what kind was it and do
you still have it?

Bob . . .


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rene(at)felker.com
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 6:24 pm    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

I might…..I will check at the hanger the next time I am out there.

From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2016 7:35 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Re: Under Sized Wire

At 10:28 AM 8/28/2016, you wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com (rene(at)felker.com)>

Just FYI, after losing my first two alternators I upgraded to the Plane
Power 70 amp. I left the 60amp breaker in the feed line. Worked
fine....until I was on a long trip to FLA and it tripped the breaker. Three
times......after take off and I think it was related to keying up the mic.
Also, it happened on the second leg of the day....hot day....engine heat
soaked.

I upgraded to a 70 AMP breaker.....all is fine.

My amp meter measures the flow to and from the main battery. So no real
help there in determining if I was really seeing 70 amps. My calculated max
load is nowhere near that....

This kinda has the 'smell' of a faulty
breaker . . . what kind was it and do
you still have it?
Bob . . .


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 5:07 am    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

At 09:20 PM 8/28/2016, you wrote:
Quote:
I might…..I will check at the hanger the next time I am out there.

Cool.



Bob . . .


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user9253



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 1927
Location: Riley TWP Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2016 5:48 am    Post subject: Re: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

In reference to my original question about 14 AWG wire melting at 60 amp, below are some links related to the subject.

Calculate the dissipated watts:
http://mustcalculate.com/electronics/wireproperties.php?mat=cu&l=1&area=2.08&areae=mm2&i=60&temp=20

All About Circuits forum discussion:
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/how-to-calculate-heat-in-wires.108314/

WIRE AND CABLE MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE AND RISE IN AIR
DESIGN NOTE November 1996, Updated September 2009
by Douglas P. Arduini - Consultant
TABLE 3. MAXIMUM WIRE CURRENT FOR SINGLE COPPER WIRE IN FREE AIR
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ZTG2VpCuDRR0VkRGpidG5DcTA
14 AWG at 43 amps = 125 degrees C temp rise
14 AWG at 47 amps =150 degrees C temp rise
14 AWG at 54 amps = 200 degrees C temp rise

Conclusion: 14 AWG wire would not melt at 60 amps


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2016 10:10 am    Post subject: Under Sized Wire Reply with quote

WIRE AND CABLE MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE AND RISE IN AIR
DESIGN NOTE    November 1996, Updated September 2009
by  Douglas P. Arduini - Consultant
TABLE 3. MAXIMUM WIRE CURRENT FOR SINGLE COPPER WIRE IN FREE AIR
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ZTG2VpCuDRR0VkRGpidG5DcTA
14 AWG at 43 amps = 125 degrees C temp rise
14 AWG at 47 amps =150 degrees C temp rise
14 AWG at 54 amps = 200 degrees C temp rise

Conclusion: 14 AWG wire would not melt at 60 amps
 
              At 60 amps the temperature would be about 480 deg F!!
              I would say that you would see some flowing of the wire
              insulation and a bit of smoke.  Not what I would call an
              ideal airborne situation!

              Roger


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