ceengland7(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2016 6:37 pm Post subject: Fwd: Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors |
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-------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: Re: Problems Soldering DB-25 Connectors Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2016 21:21:24 -0500 From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> (ceengland7(at)gmail.com) To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)
On 9/21/2016 7:33 PM, Art Zemon wrote:
| Quote: | Folks,
I am trying to solder 20 gauge wire into DB-25 connectors and having a tough time. The conductors just barely fit into the cups on the backs of the pins when everything is "dry," before tinning. After I tin either one, pin or wire, I cannot get all of the conductors into the cup. I end up with something like this:
I'm afraid that those are not acceptable. What do you think?
If they are not acceptable, what is the solution? Can I trim a few conductors away so that the remainder will slip into the cup? Or should I just give up and switch to crimp pins? Or what?
Thanks,
-- Art Z.
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
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Hi Art,
For background, I went through several careers & a hobby or two with a soldering iron in my hand. When I started wiring my RV-7, I saw no need to spend the (relatively) big bucks on crimp style sub d's. After hours of work with a soldering iron, and a couple of minor revisions to the wiring, I threw in the towel & bought a batch of shells & machined pins. I've obviously got the skills to do everything with the iron, but crimped pins are *much* faster, and as others have mentioned, much easier to make revisions/corrections to the wiring.
If you decide to stick with solder, I'd suggest tinning the wire, but not the terminal cup. Instead, try a dab of electronics grade flux paste in the cup before inserting the wire. Make sure you've got a hot iron with a clean & tinned tip. (Low heat and/or poor heat transfer can damage components before solder flows properly.) I like to mate the connector to a spare mate before starting the soldering process. That way, if the plastic insulating body gets a bit too hot, the 'mate' will keep the pins aligned. If you can keep the stripped area short enough, you shouldn't need shrink over the pins.
Good luck,
Charlie
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