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jonlaury
Joined: 06 Nov 2006 Posts: 336
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Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 1:51 pm Post subject: Soldered lap splice has more resistance? |
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Not exactly off-topic, but the question arises from an automotive application.
I have an intermittent START fault that doesn't show up on the dealer computer (3 different dealers). In their investigation, they found some rodent damage to wiring that powers the in-tank fuel pump in a VW Jetta TDI. The dealer wanted $756 to fix it
I declined.
I retrieved my car, cut out the damage and performed the typical lap splice to the 4 damaged wires, that Bob N. recommends. Specifically, mechanically binding the two lapped wire ends with 2 strands of the conductor, filling the bundle with solder, and covering with heat shrink. It didn't fix the starting fault, but the pump runs fine.
When talking to the dealer again about this, and that I repaired the wiring damage as described, he claimed that soldering the wires together as described would add more resistance to the circuit and could start a fire. I coughed, and sputtered, as my BS meter pegged and exploded.
He said only the VW butt splice method was acceptable. I asked for more details and was told that the VW method uses Crimp and Solder Sealed Butt connectors. I asked if he heard the word "solder" in there. That ended our discussion.
So I think I know the answer to my question, but would like the group's verification.
Thanks,
JOHN
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lyleapgmc
Joined: 19 Feb 2014 Posts: 57
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Posted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 2:14 pm Post subject: Soldered lap splice has more resistance? |
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Just another ploy to get more money from the uninformed. There is
simply too much of this going on but it has been going on for a long,
long time. That $756 sounds like a flat rate book figure. It includes
removing all the seats, the windshield and the left front wheel. An
experienced auto electrician will make a ton of money doing that repair
all day long.
This example is why buyers must do their research. Research the dealer
and research the contemplated repair. Then do it yourself.
Lyle
On 11/5/2016 4:51 PM, jonlaury wrote:
Quote: |
Not exactly off-topic, but the question arises from an automotive application.
I have an intermittent START fault that doesn't show up on the dealer computer (3 different dealers). In their investigation, they found some rodent damage to wiring that powers the in-tank fuel pump in a VW Jetta TDI. The dealer wanted $756 to fix it
I declined.
I retrieved my car, cut out the damage and performed the typical lap splice to the 4 damaged wires, that Bob N. recommends. Specifically, mechanically binding the two lapped wire ends with 2 strands of the conductor, filling the bundle with solder, and covering with heat shrink. It didn't fix the starting fault, but the pump runs fine.
When talking to the dealer again about this, and that I repaired the wiring damage as described, he claimed that soldering the wires together as described would add more resistance to the circuit and could start a fire. I coughed, and sputtered, as my BS meter pegged and exploded.
He said only the VW butt splice method was acceptable. I asked for more details and was told that the VW method uses Crimp and Solder Sealed Butt connectors. I asked if he heard the word "solder" in there. That ended our discussion.
So I think I know the answer to my question, but would like the group's verification.
Thanks,
JOHN
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462096#462096
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alec(at)alecmyers.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 3:49 am Post subject: Soldered lap splice has more resistance? |
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If solder had a high resistance, someone would invent a better one that didn't.
The conductivity of 60/40 solder is (I read) 153 nanoohm metres.
Pure copper is 17 nanoohm metres.
This suggests that the very very thin layer of solder that separates the wires in a soldered lap-joint has the same resistance as a layer of copper 9 times as thick. 9 times very vey thin is still very very thin, and negligible compared to the length of the wire itself.
I don't believe there's any reason to think the wire-solder interfaces will have any greater resistance than the various solid metal to metal interfaces in a correctly made crimp.
Quote: | On Nov 5, 2016, at 6:13 PM, Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net> wrote:
Just another ploy to get more money from the uninformed. There is simply too much of this going on but it has been going on for a long, long time. That $756 sounds like a flat rate book figure. It includes removing all the seats, the windshield and the left front wheel. An experienced auto electrician will make a ton of money doing that repair all day long.
This example is why buyers must do their research. Research the dealer and research the contemplated repair. Then do it yourself.
Lyle
> On 11/5/2016 4:51 PM, jonlaury wrote:
>
>
> Not exactly off-topic, but the question arises from an automotive application.
>
> I have an intermittent START fault that doesn't show up on the dealer computer (3 different dealers). In their investigation, they found some rodent damage to wiring that powers the in-tank fuel pump in a VW Jetta TDI. The dealer wanted $756 to fix it
> I declined.
>
> I retrieved my car, cut out the damage and performed the typical lap splice to the 4 damaged wires, that Bob N. recommends. Specifically, mechanically binding the two lapped wire ends with 2 strands of the conductor, filling the bundle with solder, and covering with heat shrink. It didn't fix the starting fault, but the pump runs fine.
>
> When talking to the dealer again about this, and that I repaired the wiring damage as described, he claimed that soldering the wires together as described would add more resistance to the circuit and could start a fire. I coughed, and sputtered, as my BS meter pegged and exploded.
>
> He said only the VW butt splice method was acceptable. I asked for more details and was told that the VW method uses Crimp and Solder Sealed Butt connectors. I asked if he heard the word "solder" in there. That ended our discussion.
>
> So I think I know the answer to my question, but would like the group's verification.
>
> Thanks,
> JOHN
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462096#462096
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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rampil
Joined: 04 May 2007 Posts: 870
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jonlaury
Joined: 06 Nov 2006 Posts: 336
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