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erich weaver
Joined: 16 Jun 2016 Posts: 11
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:44 am Post subject: voltage fluctuations |
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I have my RV-7A wired per Z-13/8. I sometimes observe rapidly fluctuating voltage, varying from approximately 13.0 to 14.0 V, as indicated on my EFIS display. I figured it was just a loose connection at the EFIS, but I hooked up a voltage meter to the battery terminals and ran the engine and observed similar occasional fluctuations, so the problem lies elsewhere. I then tested voltage at pin 6 on my B&C LRC voltage regulator with the engine off and the master on, and observed a voltage of about 11.9 V. However, when I remove the wire from my master switch that feeds pin 6 and test voltage on it, I get the expected 13 V. The voltage drop is only observed after connecting the wire to the voltage regulator. B&C specs say the voltage drop should be 0.2V or less. Is my regulator bad and is this the cause of my voltage fluctuations?
thanks
Erich
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1922 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 2:14 pm Post subject: Re: voltage fluctuations |
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If I am interpreting your voltage measurements correctly, it sounds like the master switch contacts or terminals have high resistance. Make sure the terminals are tight and cycle the master switch on and off many times to wear away corrosion.
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_________________ Joe Gores |
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erich weaver
Joined: 16 Jun 2016 Posts: 11
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 5:24 pm Post subject: Re: voltage fluctuations |
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No, when I measure voltage at the regulator end of the wire, but with it disconnected from the regulator, I see the full 13 V. When I reconnect the wire to the regulator and measure the voltage again at the pin 6 terminal, it drops to 11.9 V. Measurements were repeated several times to confirm.
Erich
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1922 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 5:43 pm Post subject: Re: voltage fluctuations |
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OK Erich. That confirms my interpretation. There is a problem with the master switch or its connections. If you do not believe me, connect that wire to a test lamp instead of to regulator terminal 6. The lamp should be as high wattage as possible without blowing the fuse or tripping the breaker. If the voltage drops at the end of that wire, then there is resistance someplace in the circuit. If the connections are all good, then replace the master switch.
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ceengland7(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 6:37 pm Post subject: voltage fluctuations |
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If his VOM has a 10 amp DC current range, he could just put it in series
with that wire & check the current going through the regulator.
(I agree that it's probably a bad switch, or crimp, etc.)
On 11/6/2017 7:43 PM, user9253 wrote:
Quote: |
OK Erich. That confirms my interpretation. There is a problem with the master switch or its connections. If you do not believe me, connect that wire to a test lamp instead of to regulator terminal 6. The lamp should be as high wattage as possible without blowing the fuse or tripping the breaker. If the voltage drops at the end of that wire, then there is resistance someplace in the circuit. If the connections are all good, then replace the master switch.
--------
Joe Gores
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 7:20 am Post subject: voltage fluctuations |
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At 01:44 PM 11/6/2017, you wrote:
Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "erich weaver" <erich.weaver(at)aecom.com>
I have my RV-7A wired per Z-13/8. I sometimes observe rapidly fluctuating voltage, varying from approximately 13.0 to 14.0 V, as indicated on my EFIS display. I figured it was just a loose connection at the EFIS, but I hooked up a voltage meter to the battery terminals and ran the engine and observed similar occasional fluctuations, so the problem lies elsewhere. |
I am presuming that this is a new condition . . . that
you've enjoyed some period of normal operations from
your alternator system.
What was the voltage when the system was operating normally?
The legacy choice of set point for lead-acid systems and
RG batteries if 14.2 to 14.6V
Quote: | I then tested voltage at pin 6 on my B&C LRC voltage regulator with the engine off and the master on, and observed a voltage of about 11.9 V. However, when I remove the wire from my master switch that feeds pin 6 and test voltage on it, I get the expected 13 V. The voltage drop is only observed after connecting the wire to the voltage regulator. B&C specs say the voltage drop should be 0.2V or less. Is my regulator bad and is this the cause of my voltage fluctuations? |
Voltage drop in pin 6 power generally
don't cause large excursions of bus voltage.
This is power pin for field current . . .
not bus voltage sensing.
As an experiment, disconnect pins 6 and 3
from ship's wiring. Jumper 6 and 3 together.
Put a 10A fuse in a temporary line from
3/6 to the alternator B-terminal.
Start the engine. Alternator will come on
line immediately. Observe bus voltage. If
not 14.2 minimum, adjust LR regulator to
achieve 14.4 volts.
Turn on system loads and observe that
bus voltage is still 14.0 to 14.4 volts.
This will confirm/deny proper opreation of
your B&C equipment.
Bob . . .
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erich weaver
Joined: 16 Jun 2016 Posts: 11
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Posted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 2:55 pm Post subject: Re: voltage fluctuations |
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yes, I didnt see such fluctuations in the past, at least not as large. Ive noticed it recently because my EFIS warns me when voltage falls to 13 V.
I dont understand the logic behind the earlier posts indicating that there is likely a problem in the master switch or the the wire from it to pin 6 of the regulator. Not saying thats wrong, just that I dont understand it. The wire clearly is not at fault because I see no voltage drop from one end to the other when disconnected from the regulator; voltage drop only occurs when connected to the regulator.
As currently wired, there is a jumper between pin 3 and 6. During past "normal" operation I believe my indicated operating voltage was somewhere in the 13.5-14.0 range. I attributed the slightly low values to diodes within the Grand Rapids EFIS and/or EIS that dropped the voltage slightly. Not entirely sure that is correct however.
I will try Bob's suggestion of the temporary wire to the alternator B-terminal and monitoring buss voltage this weekend and report back.
thanks guys
Erich
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1922 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 4:49 pm Post subject: Re: voltage fluctuations |
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The logic is based on ohms law. E=IR In other words, voltage drop is equal to current times resistance. There should be very little resistance between the battery and terminal 6 of the voltage regulator. Let's call it zero ohms. So the voltage drop is equal to current times zero, or zero voltage drop. Since the voltage drop is actually 1 volt or more, then the resistance is not zero between the battery and terminal 6. The most likely places to find resistance is the master switch or its terminals or else a fuse or circuit breaker, whatever is in the circuit. The easiest way to find the voltage drop (and resistance) is with a voltmeter. Of course the voltage regulator needs to be turned on during this test. Connect the black meter lead to terminal 6 and probe the circuit with the red meter lead backwards towards the battery. If the voltmeter displays more than a couple of tenths of a volt, then the problem has been located.
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ceengland7(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 5:12 pm Post subject: voltage fluctuations |
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The logic is that if there's high series resistance (flaky contacts in a
switch, bad crimp, corrosion in a joint, etc), then there will be
voltage drop across that resistance when a load is applied. The amount
of the voltage drop will depend on the current demanded by the load.
When the load is removed completely (wire disconnected from the load),
there will be no voltage drop across the resistance.
Here's another check you can make for high resistance in that circuit:
While the system is on and operating, use your voltmeter to measure
between the a/c main bus and pin 6 of the regulator. You should measure
near zero volts. If the measurement is anything higher than a tenth of a
volt or so, you've got high resistance somewhere between the supply and
the regulator.
On 11/7/2017 4:55 PM, erich weaver wrote:
Quote: |
yes, I didnt see such fluctuations in the past, at least not as large. Ive noticed it recently because my EFIS warns me when voltage falls to 13 V.
I dont understand the logic behind the earlier posts indicating that there is likely a problem in the master switch or the the wire from it to pin 6 of the regulator. Not saying thats wrong, just that I dont understand it. The wire clearly is not at fault because I see no voltage drop from one end to the other when disconnected from the regulator; voltage drop only occurs when connected to the regulator.
As currently wired, there is a jumper between pin 3 and 6. During past "normal" operation I believe my indicated operating voltage was somewhere in the 13.5-14.0 range. I attributed the slightly low values to diodes within the Grand Rapids EFIS and/or EIS that dropped the voltage slightly. Not entirely sure that is correct however.
I will try Bob's suggestion of the temporary wire to the alternator B-terminal and monitoring buss voltage this weekend and report back.
thanks guys
Erich
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 6:14 pm Post subject: voltage fluctuations |
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Quote: | As currently wired, there is a jumper between pin 3 and 6. |
Aha! You really want to consider running separate
wires for Field supply (pin 6) and bus sense (Pin 3).
Separate power and sense paths are essential for meeting
the regulator's design goals. Furhter, if you trip the
ov system in the regulator with 3 tied to 6, you loose
low voltage warning.
Quote: | During past "normal" operation I believe my indicated operating voltage was somewhere in the 13.5-14.0 range. I attributed the slightly low values to diodes within the Grand Rapids EFIS and/or EIS that dropped the voltage slightly. Not entirely sure that is correct however. |
Are you running an e-bus? Is the EFIS on the main bus or e-bus?
The e-bus normal operating voltage is 0.5 to 0.7 volts LOWER than
the main bus so perhaps your EFIS does not speak with forked tongue.
Quote: | I will try Bob's suggestion of the temporary wire to the alternator B-terminal and monitoring buss voltage this weekend and report back. |
Okay, that's MAIN bus voltage, not E-BUS
Bob . . .
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erich weaver
Joined: 16 Jun 2016 Posts: 11
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Posted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:19 pm Post subject: Re: voltage fluctuations |
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Ok, will revise wiring to eliminate the pin 3 to pin 6 jumper. Did the wiring back in 2007 or so, and don't remember my reasoning for using the jumper, but I didn't make deviations from B&C instructions on a whim. Not important now.
The EFIS is powered from the e-bus, which I realize now will have a slight voltage drop due to the diode, so I should expect somewhere around 13.7 to 14 V at the buss with engine running. Still not sure if there would be additional voltage drop from a diode internal to the EFIS.
Thanks
E.
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:23 am Post subject: voltage fluctuations |
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At 12:19 AM 11/8/2017, you wrote:
Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "erich weaver" <erich.weaver(at)aecom.com>
Ok, will revise wiring to eliminate the pin 3 to pin 6 jumper. Did the wiring back in 2007 or so, and don't remember my reasoning for using the jumper, but I didn't make deviations from B&C instructions on a whim. Not important now. |
Jumpering 3/6 together will allow the LR3
to emulate a 3-wire, 'ford' regulator . . .
which is not necessarily bad . . . but it
fails to exploit a design feature of the
LR series regulators that improves regulation
performance -AND- wards off the 'galloping
ammeter' syndrome.
Quote: | The EFIS is powered from the e-bus, which I realize now will have a slight voltage drop due to the diode, so I should expect somewhere around 13.7 to 14 V at the buss with engine running. Still not sure if there would be additional voltage drop from a diode internal to the EFIS. |
No, they wouldn't do that. The bus voltage sample
to the EFIS will be a straight pipe line from
sample point to the analog/digital converter.
But unless there is a separate input pin labeled
"bus sense" or similar, then the EFIS has no
choice but to monitor and display the voltage
applied to the system power pin.
In this instance, powering from the e-bus would
produced an expected, normal voltage somewhat
lower than main bus . . . not a big deal 'cause
you KNOW what the drop is.
As part of the experiment, you can CLOSE the
alternate feed switch for the E-Bus which
would bypass the normal feed path diode.
The voltage drops you observe on the field supply
are a separate issue . . . but related to the
overall investigation. However, when 3/6 are tied
together, then a voltage drop on that line would
fool the LR3 into believing that the bus voltage is
LOW whereupon the regulator would BOOST the
bus, not depress it.
So there are things we still don't know/understand
about your observations. Let's confirm integrity
of the regulator/alternator hardware first.
Bob . . .
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erich weaver
Joined: 16 Jun 2016 Posts: 11
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 1:20 pm Post subject: Re: voltage fluctuations |
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I was able to work on this last weekend and found that there was indeed some voltage loss between main bus and master switch. Got that taken care of, got rid of the jumper between pins 3 and 6 on voltage regulator and added a dedicated bus voltage sense wire, and then monitored voltage at a number of locations with the engine running using my trusty Radio Shack multimeter: 14.08 V at battery; 14.06 at battery bus, 14.05 at main bus, and 13.31 at e-bus that is fed through a diode. With the e-bus alternate feed switch turned on, e-bus voltage jumps to 13.96. Voltage readings are now steady at the battery and bus locations.
EIS and two EFIS screen voltage values are only indicated in tenths of volts on the screens, and these values seem to fluctuate by 0.1 or 0.2 V; not sure why that is, but perhaps that isnt really a concern.
EIS (fed from e-bus) = 13.5 V
pilot EFIS, primary power source (fed from e-bus) 13.4 V
pilot EFIS, secondary power source (fed from main bus & TCW power stabilizer =13.8 V. So looks like my intended secondary power source for covering engine-start brown-outs is actually serving as my primary power source due to its higher voltage.
Copilot EFIS, primary power source (fed from e-bus) = 13.2 V (a bit low)
There is no secondary power source connected for the copilot EFIS.
So, all good overall, although thinking I should adjust the voltage regulator until I get 14.2 V at the battery so that it recharges a bit faster.
Thanks for the assistance guys.
Erich
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1922 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 3:23 pm Post subject: Re: voltage fluctuations |
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Good going Erich.
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 9:37 am Post subject: voltage fluctuations |
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I was able to work on this last weekend and found that there was indeed some voltage loss between main bus and master switch. Got that taken care of, got rid of the jumper between pins 3 and 6 on voltage regulator and added a dedicated bus voltage sense wire, and then monitored voltage at a number of locations with the engine running using my trusty Radio Shack multimeter: 14.08 V at battery; 14.06 at battery bus, 14.05 at main bus, and 13.31 at e-bus that is fed through a diode. With the e-bus alternate feed switch turned on, e-bus voltage jumps to 13.96. Voltage readings are now steady at the battery and bus locations.
Very good. This validates our hope that there
are no problems with the hardware.
EIS and two EFIS screen voltage values are only indicated in tenths of volts on the screens, and these values seem to fluctuate by 0.1 or 0.2 V; not sure why that is, but perhaps that isnt really a concern.
ALL digital dispalys are subject to some
degree of 'bobble' in the least significant
digit. Which has to do with the manner in which
DC votlages are filtered, sampled and converted
to binary values for furhter processing. Then
there are the effects of naturally occuring
variations in the bus votlage itself.
Unless the designer has gone to the trouble to
oversample, do running averaging or perhaps
convert to more digits and toss out the last
one . . . you're going to see this bobble.
As much as plus or minus two counts in the
least significant digit is of no concern.
Back in the days when the best voltmeters
installed might look like this:
You couldn't see the fluctuations . . . but they
were still there.
EIS (fed from e-bus) = 13.5 V
pilot EFIS, primary power source (fed from e-bus) 13.4 V
pilot EFIS, secondary power source (fed from main bus & TCW power stabilizer =13.8 V. So looks like my intended secondary power source for covering engine-start brown-outs is actually serving as my primary power source due to its higher voltage.
Copilot EFIS, primary power source (fed from e-bus) = 13.2 V (a bit low)
There is no secondary power source connected for the copilot EFIS.
So, all good overall, although thinking I should adjust the voltage regulator until I get 14.2 V at the battery so that it recharges a bit faster.
14.4 volts is not out of line. Reading from the
Hawkjer-Enersys manual on Odyssey batteries:
[img]cid:.0[/img]
It sounds like the power management philosophy for
the 'secondary power sources' could use some
refinement. Without detailed schematics describing
just how electrons are being herded through the
system, it's not possible to offer a detailed
assessment.
The take-away from this exercise was predicted
by one of my heros:
"When you can measure what you are speaking about, and
express it in numbers, you know something about it; but
when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in
numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory
kind; it may be the beginning of knowledge, but you have
scarcely in your thoughts advanced to the stage of science,
whatever the matter may be." -Lord Kelvin- 1864
Bob . . .
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 12:50 pm Post subject: voltage fluctuations |
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I almost forgot . . .
Quote: | So, all good overall, although thinking I should adjust the voltage regulator until I get 14.2 V at the battery so that it recharges a bit faster.
14.4 volts is not out of line . . . |
When setting your voltage regulator, adjust
for the desired magnitude AT THE REGULATOR'S
SENSE POINT.
In this case, at the main bus. Adjusting
for voltage at the battery does not account
for inevitable VARIATIONS in voltage drop
between the sense point and the battery. If
the battery is taking a charge, current through
the charge path DEPRESSES voltage at the
battery . . . which approaches zero as the battery
charges.
A fully charged battery's terminal voltage and
the sense point at the bus will be essentially
equal. So while cranking on the little screw, measure
from the bus.
Bob . . .
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erich weaver
Joined: 16 Jun 2016 Posts: 11
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Posted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 4:51 pm Post subject: Re: voltage fluctuations |
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Got it, thanks Bob.
Reading this forum and the Connection gave me the courage to wire my plane myself, something I’ve never regretted.
Erich
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