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kingsnjan(at)westnet.com. Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 3:41 am Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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I have a plain vanilla 80HP Mono Classic. Plumbing of the coolant radiators are as per the book and the oil cooler is mounted underneath the spinner as recommended by Europa.
Cylinder head and Oil temps were totally unsatisfactory until I made two ugly fixed cowl flaps (temporary ones) that allow a better air exit path. Today, with a ground temp of 38C ((at)400 ASL) I climbed from ground level to 8,500 ft at 80kts IAS on full throttle and 5500 RPM. Max CHT and Oil Temps reached were 102C and 116C respectively. In cruise at 8500 ft on full throttle (22" MAP) and 5000 RPM with OAT of 17C, the temps dropped to 70C and 84C respectively which is a bit cool but easily fixed. I'm happy with the cooling at this moment but am unsure how it will be in the hot conditions of North Western Queensland where the ground temp is often around 42C to 45C but I digress.
After shutting down today, the OAT was 39C. CHT was 91C and Oil temp 88C. After opening the hatches on top of the cowl, I felt the temps of the two coolant radiators in the front of the cowl and one was noticeably hotter than the other. This is understandable as both radiators are in series.
Ignoring the complexity of the required plumbing, I then contemplated what might happen if the coolant radiators were connected in parallel.
I reasoned that if in parallel :-
- The temperature differential (deltaT?) between the coolant temp and the OAT would be maximum on both radiators giving more efficient cooling as opposed to different differentials in the series set-up .
- The flow rate through each radiator would be halved so coupled to the higher deltaT, I assume better cooling as a result.
My question,
Does anybody have first hand experience with such a set-up and if so, do you have any documented evidence of improved cooling as a result?
Cheers and all the best for the Festive Season to all.
Kingsley in Oz.
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ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 9:44 am Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Hi! Kingsley, Firstly congratulations on you first flight.
Have you the water radiator set 2” below the oil cooler ? and the gap below and to the side of both matrices closed up?
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kingsley Hurst
Sent: 24 December 2017 11:40
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Cooling a Mono Classic
I have a plain vanilla 80HP Mono Classic. Plumbing of the coolant radiators are as per the book and the oil cooler is mounted underneath the spinner as recommended by Europa.
Cylinder head and Oil temps were totally unsatisfactory until I made two ugly fixed cowl flaps (temporary ones) that allow a better air exit path. Today, with a ground temp of 38C ((at)400 ASL) I climbed from ground level to 8,500 ft at 80kts IAS on full throttle and 5500 RPM. Max CHT and Oil Temps reached were 102C and 116C respectively. In cruise at 8500 ft on full throttle (22" MAP) and 5000 RPM with OAT of 17C, the temps dropped to 70C and 84C respectively which is a bit cool but easily fixed. I'm happy with the cooling at this moment but am unsure how it will be in the hot conditions of North Western Queensland where the ground temp is often around 42C to 45C but I digress.
After shutting down today, the OAT was 39C. CHT was 91C and Oil temp 88C. After opening the hatches on top of the cowl, I felt the temps of the two coolant radiators in the front of the cowl and one was noticeably hotter than the other. This is understandable as both radiators are in series.
Ignoring the complexity of the required plumbing, I then contemplated what might happen if the coolant radiators were connected in parallel.
I reasoned that if in parallel :-
- The temperature differential (deltaT?) between the coolant temp and the OAT would be maximum on both radiators giving more efficient cooling as opposed to different differentials in the series set-up .
- The flow rate through each radiator would be halved so coupled to the higher deltaT, I assume better cooling as a result.
My question,
Does anybody have first hand experience with such a set-up and if so, do you have any documented evidence of improved cooling as a result?
Cheers and all the best for the Festive Season to all.
Kingsley in Oz.
Virus-free. www.avg.com
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budyerly(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 3:02 pm Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Kingsley,
Congrats. My favorite mono is a Classic. Light and fun.
I have two suggestions on how to cool the Europa Classic standard install.
Kim Prout is in Southern California with a 912 (80 HP) Mono and Whirlwind constant speed prop. He modified his cowl.
Smaller inlets, larger outlet it looks, and attention to detail on the cowl inlets and everywhere else.
Also with a successful mono is Creighton Smith (912 Mono, Airmaster) in southern Florida. Creighton flies from Canada to Key West Florida. We opened up Creightons cowl exit as the standard is a bit small for our hot weather, and put on my close fitting firewall for more exit area still, and we really should have put in cowl flaps. He has a Lenovo oil/glycol heat exchanger so his radiators cool both the oil and coolant. On extended climbs he has to stair step his climb. It was fine to about 5500 feet but the extended climb with the Airmaster pulls more torque and consequently climb and cruise are good, but the cowl flaps in our opinion would allow unrestricted climb. He has leaned his engine over standard a bit by moving the needles and installed a Hacman mixture control. Excellent cruise considering the his stock airframe. He emailed me today and here is an excerpt:
“In a hundred or so hours, including the longish eclipse trip to Wyoming, We’ve noticed a few things.
To wit:
The mixture control is kind of wonky and, as advertised, the Bing carbs do a fine job up to about 4000ft or so. I did raise the needle.
On some of our longer legs we slalomed around buildups at 10500 and it did a fine job and provided a tas of about 125kt even on 80hp and almost 1450lb. You have to wait for the egts to stabilize and kind of sneak up on peak and then richen 50 or so. The amount you have to screw the mixture needle out at WOT and 12000ft density altitudes is a LOT more than WOT at 7500. Forgetting to richen before reducing throttle will get your attention.
Fuel flows at 10-12k were in the high 3s.
The Long Ranger aux tank is wonderful for the flying I often do. It is also really useful for tankering mogas and avoiding 100LL.
The radiators are too small. Climb temps go disturbingly close to redline even at 95-100kt. Of course I step climb. At altitude in the northern winter temps are a bit low at cruise and pretty low in descent. I need a cowl flap.
The delta T is 20degF water to oil.
For snoring around Florida on 100nm legs I’ve discovered that 4700rpm and 26in results in lower fuel flows, smooth engine and 112ktias. Good for rubbernecking.
Man oh man, that Airmaster prop is worth its weight in platypuses, or whatever they have in New Zealand.
I’ve had carb ice on startup several times (I ran into this on several occasions with CV motorcycle carbs)(duh) and on descent once. A blip of throttle cleared it.
I think motorcycles are always moving the throttle and for this reason are not prone to enroute icing.”
Both planes to my knowledge have had similar issues as you. In my opinion, movable cowl flaps are essential in every airplane to increase speed, improve high power cooling, and keep cruise temps in the warm range. Also is a tight fit between the cowl and radiators. Never leave the air have a way to get around a radiator. It kills efficiency. Both of these guys have installed modified cold air plenums or half plenums to the carbs but have fixed modified cowl ramp exits. If your exit and firewall are stock, I believe your first option for major mods is a pair of movable cowl flaps. I believe in a fixed cowl flap for experimenting but it is a speed brake at cruise.
As far as parallel or series radiator plumbing to enhance cooling, I think it will be a bit of a plumbing nightmare as there is not much room in the Classic. I think your idea has merit as the coolant will flow slower through the radiators and make them more efficient, but with a Y to each inlet and a tee back to the water pump, fit will be difficult. To start your experimenting I would suggest you make sure you have installed the radiators tightly to the cowl. You can tape up the gaps around the radiator for temporary experimental air gap sealing.
If the engine is new, expect it to run hotter until fully broke in of course.
Watch your oil temp if using the stock oil cooler behind the port radiator. If you installed the oil cooler low under the spinner, it may need a larger oil cooler also.
Both Creighton and Kim are avid experimenters have great flying airplanes and have worked out their issues over a number of years. They also are mechanically very-very good.
Email me direct if you have need of links to the equipment mentioned above.
I’m probably in trouble with both Kim and Creighton for offering up their services but they are good hot weather Classic references on the fly.
Merry Christmas to all of you down under. Don’t forget your sun tan lotion.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Bob Harrison <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2017 12:43:39 PM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Cooling a Mono Classic
Hi! Kingsley, Firstly congratulations on you first flight.
Have you the water radiator set 2” below the oil cooler ? and the gap below and to the side of both matrices closed up?
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kingsley Hurst
Sent: 24 December 2017 11:40
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Cooling a Mono Classic
I have a plain vanilla 80HP Mono Classic. Plumbing of the coolant radiators are as per the book and the oil cooler is mounted underneath the spinner as recommended by Europa.
Cylinder head and Oil temps were totally unsatisfactory until I made two ugly fixed cowl flaps (temporary ones) that allow a better air exit path. Today, with a ground temp of 38C ((at)400 ASL) I climbed from ground level to 8,500 ft at 80kts IAS on full throttle and 5500 RPM. Max CHT and Oil Temps reached were 102C and 116C respectively. In cruise at 8500 ft on full throttle (22" MAP) and 5000 RPM with OAT of 17C, the temps dropped to 70C and 84C respectively which is a bit cool but easily fixed. I'm happy with the cooling at this moment but am unsure how it will be in the hot conditions of North Western Queensland where the ground temp is often around 42C to 45C but I digress.
After shutting down today, the OAT was 39C. CHT was 91C and Oil temp 88C. After opening the hatches on top of the cowl, I felt the temps of the two coolant radiators in the front of the cowl and one was noticeably hotter than the other. This is understandable as both radiators are in series.
Ignoring the complexity of the required plumbing, I then contemplated what might happen if the coolant radiators were connected in parallel.
I reasoned that if in parallel :-
- The temperature differential (deltaT?) between the coolant temp and the OAT would be maximum on both radiators giving more efficient cooling as opposed to different differentials in the series set-up .
- The flow rate through each radiator would be halved so coupled to the higher deltaT, I assume better cooling as a result.
My question,
Does anybody have first hand experience with such a set-up and if so, do you have any documented evidence of improved cooling as a result?
Cheers and all the best for the Festive Season to all.
Kingsley in Oz.
Virus-free. www.avg.com
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kingsnjan(at)westnet.com. Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 3:20 pm Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Hello Bob,
Mine is a Classic mate . . . . a completely different animal from yours with respect to cooling.
If I can get hold of the necessary parts one day, I will consider changing to the XS FWF but for now I’m stuck with the original set-up.
Cheers
Kingsley
do not archive
From: Bob Harrison
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2017 3:43 AM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Cooling a Mono Classic
Hi! Kingsley, Firstly congratulations on you first flight.
Have you the water radiator set 2” below the oil cooler ? and the gap below and to the side of both matrices closed up?
Regards
Bob H G-PTAG
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kingsnjan(at)westnet.com. Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 3:53 pm Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Many thanks Bud, I appreciate your response.
I’m tied up for a few days but will reply as soon as I can.
Have a good Christmas and all the best for the New Year.
Cheers
Kingsley
do not archive
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phillik747
Joined: 04 Apr 2012 Posts: 73 Location: Birminham, AL USA
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Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 6:56 pm Post subject: Re: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Kingsley,
From the very first flight of my Uncle's Europa (Kim Prout) he had temp issues. The fist mod was the oil cooler moved to its own inlet below the spinner. There have been many mods after.
In this link, the first 7 photos, you will see the current cowling mod of my Uncle's plane. On page 4 the last two photos you can see the plane behind two knuckleheads. I hope these photos will be helpful.
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=99627&g2_page=1
Kyle
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_________________ Kyle
Europa Tri-gear (under construction) |
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kingsnjan(at)westnet.com. Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:55 am Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Many thanks Phil. I wasn't aware Kim had ongoing cooling problems.
I have had a few photos of Kim's aircraft for many years but they were all taken prior to the mods you have made me aware of. I also have a Europa news article where Ivan Shaw and Kim flew to Oshkosh. The article explained oil cooling issues and how they finally settled on relocation of the oil cooler to under the spinner. This was the reason I put mine under the spinner.
Thanks again Phil.
Best regards
Kingsley
Quote: |
Kingsley,
> From the very first flight of my Uncle's Europa (Kim Prout) he had temp issues. The fist mod was the oil cooler moved to its own inlet below the spinner. There have been many mods after.
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pjeffers(at)talktalk.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 3:46 am Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Hi Kyle,
I am not quite sure of your current configuration. Please confirm engine ie
912UL or ULS. From your photos you seem to be Classic Mono with I think a
912UL.
In 1996 when I first flew my Classic Mono with Rotax 912UL (80 hp)we,
together with a number of other builders, had cooling issues such as you
mention.
The fix we all discovered in those days was to provide additional exit air
from the cowlings. In essence all we did was to fit aprox 1" spacers between
the bottom of the lower cowling and the fuselage. This enabled greater exit
air from cowling and immediately gave 10 degrees centigrade reduction in
both oil and water temps.
This is just an idea that may help you but on the other hand you may already
have tried this.
Pete Jeffers
--
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phillik747
Joined: 04 Apr 2012 Posts: 73 Location: Birminham, AL USA
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 6:26 am Post subject: Re: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Hello Pete,
The engine is a 912UL.
You are correct on the cowling spacers. The lower lip was dropped a bit to allow air to exit. However, I'm not sure the spacers are still there with the new mod due to the larger exit area.
I live over 2000 miles away from my Uncle but I can get details if needed.
Thanks,
Kyle
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Fred Klein
Joined: 26 Mar 2012 Posts: 503
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 10:38 am Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Quote: | On Dec 24, 2017, at 3:01 PM, Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com)> wrote:
In my opinion, movable cowl flaps are essential in every airplane to increase speed, improve high power cooling, and keep cruise temps in the warm range.
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Bud,
Might you have some drawings or pixs of the control rod linkage or cables or servos you’ve used to open and close cowl flaps?
Merry Christmas,
Fred
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r.vogel(at)ggs.ch Guest
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 12:40 am Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Hi Kingsley
I have had temperature problems just during the first flight with my Classic 912S,
although temperatures in Switzerland are normally much lower as in your country.
The engine stopped in about 120m AGL because vapour lock. You could read the full
story in the Europa Flyer December 2016. There was no time for checking the
temperatures. But I think the oil temperature was about 120°C after take off,
because the cooling effect during taxi and run up was not enough.
This has been confirmed by additional tests.
After some modification to the cowling the problem was fixed.
See this link: http://www.theeuropaclub.org/building/cowl-and-cooling "Cooling 101 for Europa"
This modification has been done to the cowling:
- Enlarges the inlets for cylinders and radiators
- Enlarge the duct ramp about 5cm each sides
- Add a temperature sensor (LM335) on top inside the cowling for monitoring
the temperature around the fuel system and contact to the MGL EFIS aux. input.
That's all. Everything with temperatures seems to be OK now.
Kind regards from fogy Switzerland.
Ruedi Vogel, HB-YJF
Am 24.12.2017 um 12:40 schrieb Kingsley Hurst:
Quote: | I have a plain vanilla 80HP Mono Classic. Plumbing of the coolant radiators are as per the book and the oil cooler is mounted underneath the spinner as recommended by Europa.
Cylinder head and Oil temps were totally unsatisfactory until I made two ugly fixed cowl flaps (temporary ones) that allow a better air exit path. Today, with a ground temp of 38C ((at)400 ASL) I climbed from ground level to 8,500 ft at 80kts IAS on full throttle and 5500 RPM. Max CHT and Oil Temps reached were 102C and 116C respectively. In cruise at 8500 ft on full throttle (22" MAP) and 5000 RPM with OAT of 17C, the temps dropped to 70C and 84C respectively which is a bit cool but easily fixed. I'm happy with the cooling at this moment but am unsure how it will be in the hot conditions of North Western Queensland where the ground temp is often around 42C to 45C but I digress.
After shutting down today, the OAT was 39C. CHT was 91C and Oil temp 88C. After opening the hatches on top of the cowl, I felt the temps of the two coolant radiators in the front of the cowl and one was noticeably hotter than the other. This is understandable as both radiators are in series.
Ignoring the complexity of the required plumbing, I then contemplated what might happen if the coolant radiators were connected in parallel.
I reasoned that if in parallel :-
- The temperature differential (deltaT?) between the coolant temp and the OAT would be maximum on both radiators giving more efficient cooling as opposed to different differentials in the series set-up .
- The flow rate through each radiator would be halved so coupled to the higher deltaT, I assume better cooling as a result.
My question,
Does anybody have first hand experience with such a set-up and if so, do you have any documented evidence of improved cooling as a result?
Cheers and all the best for the Festive Season to all.
Kingsley in Oz.
--
Ruedi Vogel
Wiesenweg 6
CH-3380 Wangen a.A.
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Roland
Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Posts: 334 Location: EDLE
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Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 12:06 am Post subject: Re: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Hi Ruedi,
I've read the thrilling story about vapour lock in the EF. You've certainly handled the emergency as well as possible. Most important you went away from the scene unhurt despite the very dangerous U-turn after the EFATO. Thanks very much for sharing this experience at this point.
As for the high oil temperature (120°C after take off on maximum power), I think this shouldn't be a general problem (as apposed to vapour lock of course for obvious reasons), especially in summer. The redline is 130°C and I see oiltemperatures approaching and sometimes even exceeding 120°C in extended climbs on a regular basis with the 914 Turbo.
Rotax wants the oiltemperature to reach 100°C MINIMUM at least once on each flight to boil the moisture out. So my understanding is, that oiltemperatures too low are much more critical and that was also confirmed by Rotax stuff in a chat on the AERO in Friedrichshafen. A modern semi synthetic oil should be well capable to deal with high temperatures - that's what it was also designed for. Full synthetic oil even more so, which I do not (yet) use for the single reason, that I sometimes can't avoid 100LL when travelling.
That said in my Europa the CHT's were the critical bit before I finally found a perfect set up with almost all cooling air forced through the radiator, a water thermostat and the (7-row) oil cooler partly blanked in winter.
Regards
Roland
PH-ZTI
XS TG 914
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davidjoyce(at)doctors.org Guest
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Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 1:41 am Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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I am much in favour of improving the internal efficiency of the cooling system, but it is perhaps worth reminding folk that the efficiency of the propeller can also transform cooling. Those of you in the club can read the report of my change from a low twist prop to a high twist one in edition 65 of the Europa Flyer, p4 archived on the club website. In essence most propeller blades seen on Europas (but not on WW2 fighters, turbo props or Red Bull Racers) have low twist, perhaps 12 degrees difference in blade pitch between the tip and 1/3 radius. This is not nearly enough and means that at any speed above idling on the ground the inner part of the blade is not keeping up with the air flow and is effectively diverting air away from the cooling air inlets of the Europa. Any plane optimised for speed has prop twist in the 24 to 26 degree range, and fitting such a prop totally transformed/abolished my cooling issues with my 914, as well as improving performance to a degree equivalent to an added 7.5 HP. Happy New Year, David Joyce, GXSDJ
On 2017-12-27 08:06, Roland wrote: Quote: | Quote: | --> Europa-List message posted by: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de (schmidtroland(at)web.de)>
Hi Ruedi,
I've read the thrilling story about vapour lock in the EF. You've certainly handled the emergency as well as possible. Most important you went away from the scene unhurt despite the very dangerous U-turn after the EFATO. Thanks very much for sharing this experience at this point.
As for the high oil temperature (120°C after take off on maximum power), I think this shouldn't be a general problem (as apposed to vapour lock of course for obvious reasons), especially in summer. The redline is 130°C and I see oiltemperatures approaching and sometimes even exceeding 120°C in extended climbs on a regular basis with the 914 Turbo.
Rotax wants the oiltemperature to reach 100°C MINIMUM at least once on each flight to boil the moisture out. So my understanding is, that oiltemperatures too low are much more critical and that was also confirmed by Rotax stuff in a chat on the AERO in Friedrichshafen. A modern semi synthetic oil should be well capable to deal with high temperatures - that's what it was also designed for. Full synthetic oil even more so, which I do not (yet) use for the single reason, that I sometimes can't avoid 100LL when travelling.
That said in my Europa the CHT's were the critical bit before I finally found a perfect set up with almost all cooling air forced through the radiator, a water thermostat and the (7-row) oil cooler partly blanked in winter.
Regards
Roland
PH-ZTI
XS TG 914
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budyerly(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 4:58 am Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Fred,
I’ll draw some up and send a photo or two when I’m back after family visits.
Regards,
Bud
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2017 2:01:45 AM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Cooling a Mono Classic
Quote: | On Dec 24, 2017, at 3:01 PM, Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com)> wrote:
In my opinion, movable cowl flaps are essential in every airplane to increase speed, improve high power cooling, and keep cruise temps in the warm range.
|
Bud,
Might you have some drawings or pixs of the control rod linkage or cables or servos you’ve used to open and close cowl flaps?
Merry Christmas,
Fred
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Fred Klein
Joined: 26 Mar 2012 Posts: 503
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Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 12:14 pm Post subject: Cooling a Mono Classic |
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Quote: | On Dec 29, 2017, at 4:58 AM, Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com)> wrote:
I’ll draw some up and send a photo or two when I’m back after family visits.
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Bud..thanks for the kind offer…didn’t intend to put you to such trouble…a brief narrative description would suffice, and anything beyond that would be very much appreciated.
Because we’re talking about cowl flaps in the (removable) lower cowl, simplicity would be a big plus…
Happy New Year,
Fred
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