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eoinmaguire(at)hotmail.co
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 Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:02 am Post subject: Instrument Panel |
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Hi All
This may sound like a daft question but I’m trying to figure out how to access the back of our instrument panel.
I need to change out the asi which when I take our the four alan bolts holding it in will fall back into the panel.....if I’m right it’s a moulded panel so those the entire panel need to come away to get at it and if so how?
Kind Regards
Eoin
Sent from my iPhone
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DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:11 am Post subject: Instrument Panel |
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The full console is moulded but most builders have two aluminum faceplates. One for the instruments and the other for the radio stack. These each have mounting screws they allow you to remove each panel for modifications.
Is yours not built this way?
Mike Duane
Europa XS
Las Vegas, NV
Sent from my iPhone
| Quote: | On Oct 3, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Eoin Maguire <eoinmaguire(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi All
This may sound like a daft question but I’m trying to figure out how to access the back of our instrument panel.
I need to change out the asi which when I take our the four alan bolts holding it in will fall back into the panel.....if I’m right it’s a moulded panel so those the entire panel need to come away to get at it and if so how?
Kind Regards
Eoin
Sent from my iPhone
|
| | - The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List |
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JonathanMilbank
Joined: 14 Apr 2012
Posts: 388
Location: Aberdeen area
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| Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 10:47 am Post subject: Re: Instrument Panel |
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Eoin, I hope you're small-built like me. This is just about the worst job that I've ever had to do, including the removal of engine and gearbox from an original little Morris Mini car. In fact it's worse than that because if your panel doesn't have the removable facia described by Mike, then you're going to be "in a world of pain"!
The "binnacle" or console is attached to the firewall by screws inserted from the engine bay side, except for a few which are inserted from the cockpit side above the parcel shelf. Every time (6 times or so in 21 years) that I've done the ghastly job, I swear that the next time I won't replace it until I've modified the console with removable facia. But then I look at what's involved, chicken out and reinstall it telling myself that it'll never need to come out again. Idiot!
I recommend that you save yourself the frightful task of having to rub away scratches from the inside of the windscreen by first making a thick-ish cardboard sheet, shaped to fit inside the screen and tape it with masking tape to the surrounding framework and/or upholstery. This is a top tip, believe me! Another top tip is to remove the two control sticks from their sockets and then lay cushions ( I use my seat cushions ) into the wells so that they provide at least some protection for your back.
From here on in, you're on your own. Each time that I've done it I slide myself head-long down to the rudder pedals and lie face upwards. This acrobatic manoeuvre will need to be performed repeatedly in both foot wells. You'll probably need first to have removed whatever you can which projects up from the central tunnel and/or to have padded it to protect the under side of the console as you slide it out. A good light is a must!
YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED ANOTHER PAIR OF HANDS TO HELP YOU AT VARIOUS STAGES AND I SUGGEST THAT THEY SHOULDN'T BELONG TO YOUR WIFE. BAD LANGUAGE WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY FLOW PROFUSELY!
| | - The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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eoinmaguire(at)hotmail.co
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| Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 12:07 pm Post subject: Instrument Panel |
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Hi Mike
Nope unfortunately mine is old school and the original moulded instrument panel is still in place!
Kind Regards
Eoin
Sent from my iPhone
| Quote: | On 3 Oct 2018, at 19:14, Mike Christine Duane <DuaneFamly(at)aol.com> wrote:
The full console is moulded but most builders have two aluminum faceplates. One for the instruments and the other for the radio stack. These each have mounting screws they allow you to remove each panel for modifications.
Is yours not built this way?
Mike Duane
Europa XS
Las Vegas, NV
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 3, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Eoin Maguire <eoinmaguire(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi All
>
> This may sound like a daft question but I’m trying to figure out how to access the back of our instrument panel.
>
> I need to change out the asi which when I take our the four alan bolts holding it in will fall back into the panel.....if I’m right it’s a moulded panel so those the entire panel need to come away to get at it and if so how?
>
> Kind Regards
> Eoin
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
|
| | - The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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eoinmaguire(at)hotmail.co
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| Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 12:32 pm Post subject: Instrument Panel |
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Cheers Jonathan
Maybe the group might have a better solution to my problem so to save me what’s sounds like a horrendous job.
Long story short I bought the aircraft at the start of the year and have been working through a few tech issues before getting the aircraft permitted in Ireland.
The aircraft has both a standard asi and dynon d10 neither of which registered an airspeed during the flight. On stripping down of the route of the pitot/static plumbing I found multiple kinks and badly made connections so replumbed from pitot/static port under wing right into the cockpit. Under the dash the original pipes connected into a 5 pin festo connector which I’m assuming is used to split to feeds to the dynon and standard asi.
Does anyone know a way of identifying how to test the asi or effectively identifying the old pipes still in place to figure out which is the static and which is the pitot without damaging the instruments ?
Kind Regards
Eoin
Sent from my iPhone
| Quote: | On 3 Oct 2018, at 19:50, JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
Eoin, I hope you're small-built like me. This is just about the worst job that I've ever had to do, including the removal of engine and gearbox from an original little Morris Mini car. In fact it's worse than that because if your panel doesn't have the removable facia described by Mike, then you're going to be "in a world of pain"!
The "binnacle" or console is attached to the firewall by screws inserted from the engine bay side, except for a few which are inserted from the cockpit side above the parcel shelf. Every time (6 times or so in 21 years) that I've done the ghastly job, I swear that the next time I won't replace it until I've modified the console with removable facia. But then I look at what's involved, chicken out and reinstall it telling myself that it'll never need to come out again. Idiot!
I recommend that you save yourself the frightful task of having to rub away scratches from the inside of the windscreen by first making a thick-ish cardboard sheet, shaped to fit inside the screen and tape it with masking tape to the surrounding framework and/or upholstery. This is a top tip, believe me! Another top tip is to remove the two control sticks from their sockets and then lay cushions ( I use my seat cushions ) into the well so that they provide at least some protection for your back.
> From here on in, you're on your own. Each time that I've done it I slide myself head-long down to the rudder pedals and lie face upwards. You'll probably need first to have removed whatever you can which projects up from the central tunnel and/or to have padded it to protect the under side of the console as you slide it out. A good light is a must!
YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED ANOTHER PAIR OF HANDS TO HELP YOU AT VARIOUS STAGES AND I SUGGEST THAT THEY SHOULDN'T BELONG TO YOUR WIFE. BAD LANGUAGE WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY FLOW PROFUSELY!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483566#483566
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| | - The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List |
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JonathanMilbank
Joined: 14 Apr 2012
Posts: 388
Location: Aberdeen area
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| Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 12:53 pm Post subject: Re: Instrument Panel |
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Testing of the ASI, as opposed to proper calibration, can be done by VERY gently and carefully blowing into the pitot ( or hose leading from pitot to instrument ) then putting your tongue over the end to block it while somebody looks at the instrument in the cockpit. Hopefully it won't show reducing airspeed until the pitot is unblocked. An alternative is to use a syringe instead of your mouth. If your Dynon ( I have one too ) is switched on as well, it will serve as comparison for the analogue ASI. Mine are within 1 knot of each other.
What I suggested previously about removing the control sticks from their sockets was incomplete. To save your back as far as possible, the sockets should be unbolted from their forks and lain down on the cockpit floor.
| | - The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List |
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Burrilla
Joined: 25 Apr 2015
Posts: 184
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| Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 1:39 pm Post subject: Instrument Panel |
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| Quote: | >Does anyone know a way of identifying how to test the asi or effectively identifying the old pipes still in place to figure out which is the static and which is the pitot without damaging the instruments ?<<
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I successfully used a low volume syringe connected to each line to check which is which and consistance of deflection on more than one instrument.
Be careful and use a low volume syringe.
Alan
Sent from my iPad
| Quote: | On 3 Oct 2018, at 21:27, Eoin Maguire <eoinmaguire(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
Does anyone know a way of identifying how to test the asi or effectively identifying the old pipes still in place to figure out which is the static and which is the pitot without damaging the instruments ?
|
| | - The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List |
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dpark748(at)me.com
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2018 6:31 pm Post subject: Instrument Panel |
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My advise would be to get a dremel and cut the panel out and replace with removable panels available from Europa!!!!
The three panels pull fwd for access to instruments etc leave sufficient original panel round the edge to install fixed nuts.
Regards
Dave Park
| Quote: | On 3 Oct 2018, at 21:27, Eoin Maguire <eoinmaguire(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
Cheers Jonathan
Maybe the group might have a better solution to my problem so to save me what’s sounds like a horrendous job.
Long story short I bought the aircraft at the start of the year and have been working through a few tech issues before getting the aircraft permitted in Ireland.
The aircraft has both a standard asi and dynon d10 neither of which registered an airspeed during the flight. On stripping down of the route of the pitot/static plumbing I found multiple kinks and badly made connections so replumbed from pitot/static port under wing right into the cockpit. Under the dash the original pipes connected into a 5 pin festo connector which I’m assuming is used to split to feeds to the dynon and standard asi.
Does anyone know a way of identifying how to test the asi or effectively identifying the old pipes still in place to figure out which is the static and which is the pitot without damaging the instruments ?
Kind Regards
Eoin
Sent from my iPhone
> On 3 Oct 2018, at 19:50, JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>
> Eoin, I hope you're small-built like me. This is just about the worst job that I've ever had to do, including the removal of engine and gearbox from an original little Morris Mini car. In fact it's worse than that because if your panel doesn't have the removable facia described by Mike, then you're going to be "in a world of pain"!
>
> The "binnacle" or console is attached to the firewall by screws inserted from the engine bay side, except for a few which are inserted from the cockpit side above the parcel shelf. Every time (6 times or so in 21 years) that I've done the ghastly job, I swear that the next time I won't replace it until I've modified the console with removable facia. But then I look at what's involved, chicken out and reinstall it telling myself that it'll never need to come out again. Idiot!
>
> I recommend that you save yourself the frightful task of having to rub away scratches from the inside of the windscreen by first making a thick-ish cardboard sheet, shaped to fit inside the screen and tape it with masking tape to the surrounding framework and/or upholstery. This is a top tip, believe me! Another top tip is to remove the two control sticks from their sockets and then lay cushions ( I use my seat cushions ) into the well so that they provide at least some protection for your back.
>
>> From here on in, you're on your own. Each time that I've done it I slide myself head-long down to the rudder pedals and lie face upwards. You'll probably need first to have removed whatever you can which projects up from the central tunnel and/or to have padded it to protect the under side of the console as you slide it out. A good light is a must!
>
> YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED ANOTHER PAIR OF HANDS TO HELP YOU AT VARIOUS STAGES AND I SUGGEST THAT THEY SHOULDN'T BELONG TO YOUR WIFE. BAD LANGUAGE WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY FLOW PROFUSELY!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483566#483566
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| | - The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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budyerly(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2018 3:12 pm Post subject: Instrument Panel |
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Sorry Dave,
Lately half the matronics list is going to junk mail.
The Europa panels are just FRP and expensive. You can buy your own and make them as easy.
The pitot static check is best done by a professional avionics shop. Typical cost for us here in Florida is $250.
For quick and dirty checks:
From the EAA and Bingalis books pull one inch of mercury by mouth (raise the altimeter exactly 1000 feet via the static tube. On a stock Europa you can pull it at the wing pitot static but it is easier to remove the pitot tube and disconnect the static line..
VSI or VVI should show a climb and settle to zero.
ASI should indicate 135KIAS
Altimeter should read 1000 feet and be steady.
If leaking on the static, disconnect the VSI as they do fail.
Next the ASI,
If the altimeter is leaking, get it rebuilt.
Never blow into the static. If unsure, pull a slight vacuum on a line and check. If nothing moves it is most likely a pitot line. Use very light pressure, or a small manometer to pressurize the pitot line to one inch of water. If the airspeed doesn’t move, its broke.
I make all my panels to be easily removable. It takes me longer to pull the cowl off than pull the panel. With the brakes easy to drop down and the throttle back, I put a towel on the handles and rotate out the panel.
See other post.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of david park <dpark748(at)me.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2018 5:25:37 PM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: Instrument Panel
My advise would be to get a dremel and cut the panel out and replace with removable panels available from Europa!!!!
The three panels pull fwd for access to instruments etc leave sufficient original panel round the edge to install fixed nuts.
Regards
Dave Park
[img]cid:946cf8cf-3edc-4d76-93b2-b04fbe8d77d3(at)namprd02.prod.outlook.com[/img]
> On 3 Oct 2018, at 21:27, Eoin Maguire <eoinmaguire(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: Eoin Maguire <eoinmaguire(at)hotmail.com>
>
> Cheers Jonathan
>
> Maybe the group might have a better solution to my problem so to save me what’s sounds like a horrendous job.
>
> Long story short I bought the aircraft at the start of the year and have been working through a few tech issues before getting the aircraft permitted in Ireland.
>
> The aircraft has both a standard asi and dynon d10 neither of which registered an airspeed during the flight. On stripping down of the route of the pitot/static plumbing I found multiple kinks and badly made connections so replumbed from pitot/static port under wing right into the cockpit. Under the dash the original pipes connected into a 5 pin festo connector which I’m assuming is used to split to feeds to the dynon and standard asi.
>
> Does anyone know a way of identifying how to test the asi or effectively identifying the old pipes still in place to figure out which is the static and which is the pitot without damaging the instruments ?
>
> Kind Regards
> Eoin
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 3 Oct 2018, at 19:50, JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> --> Europa-List message posted by: "JonathanMilbank" <jdmilbank(at)yahoo.co.uk>
>>
>> Eoin, I hope you're small-built like me. This is just about the worst job that I've ever had to do, including the removal of engine and gearbox from an original little Morris Mini car. In fact it's worse than that because if your panel doesn't have the removable facia described by Mike, then you're going to be "in a world of pain"!
>>
>> The "binnacle" or console is attached to the firewall by screws inserted from the engine bay side, except for a few which are inserted from the cockpit side above the parcel shelf. Every time (6 times or so in 21 years) that I've done the ghastly job, I swear that the next time I won't replace it until I've modified the console with removable facia. But then I look at what's involved, chicken out and reinstall it telling myself that it'll never need to come out again. Idiot!
>>
>> I recommend that you save yourself the frightful task of having to rub away scratches from the inside of the windscreen by first making a thick-ish cardboard sheet, shaped to fit inside the screen and tape it with masking tape to the surrounding framework and/or upholstery. This is a top tip, believe me! Another top tip is to remove the two control sticks from their sockets and then lay cushions ( I use my seat cushions ) into the well so that they provide at least some protection for your back.
>>
>>> From here on in, you're on your own. Each time that I've done it I slide myself head-long down to the rudder pedals and lie face upwards. You'll probably need first to have removed whatever you can which projects up from the central tunnel and/or to have padded it to protect the under side of the console as you slide it out. A good light is a must!
>>
>> YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED ANOTHER PAIR OF HANDS TO HELP YOU AT VARIOUS STAGES AND I SUGGEST THAT THEY SHOULDN'T BELONG TO YOUR WIFE. BAD LANGUAGE WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY FLOW PROFUSELY!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.matronics.com%2Fviewtopic.php%3Fp%3D483566%23483566&data=02%7C01%7C%7C01c5de7cc75c4df59ca708d629a2595e%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636742174602061108&sdata=bmjd%2BehLasbKZbnHiwgc0e%2F%2FdnnW%2FH3OxbaW6I0RvFE%3D&reserved=0
>
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