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dantechy
Joined: 09 Sep 2018
Posts: 2
Location: Alpena, MI
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 Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 7:23 am Post subject: Firestar II Second seat option |
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I am a pilot and have always liked the kolb design. I have purchased
an unassembled Firestar kit #2 off Craigslist - 1999 model. About to purchase a kit #1 from
Kolb. My question is should I purchase the 2nd seat option? Will I need to modify the
cage? The cage is pristine - really don't want to touch it. Is the second seat option even
necessary - is it FAA paperwork? I do want the ability to take a passenger from time to time.
Newbie to this list and Kolb. I appreciate any advice.
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Richard Pike
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee
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| Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 12:25 pm Post subject: Re: Firestar II Second seat option |
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I suspect that the cages are different between the single seat FS and the FSII. But ~ I really don't know. So this:
First picture is a FSII cage with the pilot seat back in place; behind it is the space where the passenger seat normally goes. The front lower crossbar/seat attach point is the backrest brace for the pilot seat back. You can see the black seatback tube is up against the white horizontal cross brace tube.
The 2nd picture is a FSII cage being being modded to put both tanks where the 2nd seat normally goes: you can see where the back of the PIC's seat is, and the tray that is in there is the stock factory issued gas tank tray for the FSII, and holds two 5 gallon tanks.
By measuring the size of a standard 5 gallon Kolb-style fuel tank you can pretty closely estimate how much distance there is between the back of the seat of the PIC and the structure that the passenger's back has to be up against.
By looking at these pictures and comparing them to your cage you should be able to tell if your cage is suitable or not.
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_________________
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing. |
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dantechy
Joined: 09 Sep 2018
Posts: 2
Location: Alpena, MI
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| Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:13 am Post subject: Re: Firestar II Second seat option |
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Richard:
My frame/cage is very close to your first unmodded picture
with the gas tank platform in back. Without a doubt there is
a location for a passenger. Could the factory option for 2nd seat
be the seven rib wing instead of the five?
Thanks for the very nice pictures & advice.
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Richard Pike
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee
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| Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 11:36 am Post subject: Re: Firestar II Second seat option |
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The 5 rib wing was for the older models, carrying a passenger would require a 7 rib wing. If you have a 5 rib wing, and plan to carry any passengers, you have some serious modifications in your future.
http://forums.matronics.com/download.php?id=4440
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_________________
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing. |
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Jerry-TS-MkII
Joined: 23 Aug 2017
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
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| Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 7:40 am Post subject: Re: Firestar II Second seat option |
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I wanted to add a comment regarding the photos of repaired or re-welded joints. I don't know if the weld areas were cleaned first or not.. but just saying. For a Kolb.. maybe the application isn't too critical? But just for the sake of others who see the photos.. (Most owners will never do any welding on their kit Kolbs.. but if you do...)
It's very important to maintain the strength of the tubing during any welding. Any impurities will reduce the strength. The metal should be free of any rust, or paint, or oil that might have been used to prevent rusting. Paint remover works, or using a flame, then wire brush, or light sanding. Wipe the joint with a clean cloth and solvent as well. And most of this should be done right before any welding. I even run Scotch-brite over my welding rods to clean them as well. And while welding, try to keep the tip of the rod within the area of the flame (or for TIG, the inert gas). Pulling it back into open air will cause quick oxidation. It will then throw off small sparks when the rust is ignited. The puddle should be glassy with no sparking or popping. I'm right handed, so I hold the filler rod in my left hand, between my little finger and the next. That allows it to be held steady, yet to slip thru, while being pushed by my thumb and forefinger grip. This will make for smooth feeding of the rod, into the established puddle. I've used oxyacetylene, but can't afford the trick adjustable flame torches. So I use TIG, which covers the weld with inert gas.. and with a foot or thumb control, it's super easy to adjust the amount of heat needed. Be sure to coat the joint after it's cooled to prevent oxidation, until it's cleaned, primed and painted.
Keep em flying!
Jerry
If at first you don't succeed, then sky-diving might not be your best choice.
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