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docclv(at)windstream.net
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 Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 10:49 am Post subject: Hot center channel |
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Our center channel would get so hot you didn't want to leave your hand
on it. I read a report of vapor locking in the fuel lines in the center
channel when we were building so, we put a piece of fire wall insulation
over the fuel lines and sealed the heat boxes with RTV silicone also to
try to keep any air flow out. Center channel was still "hot". Put fire
wall insulation from Wicks on fire wall. Center channel is only "warm"
now even in 90 plus degree weather. I am convinced the fire wall
insulation is the major thing to do to keep the center channel cool.
However, I would also recommend insulating the center channel, etc. You
also have to put insulation "mats" on each side of the engine cowling or
the eghaust heat will warp the cowling.
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 12:05 pm Post subject: Hot center channel |
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Do you have the pattern for firewall pieces that you can share?
Thanks
Do not archive
| Quote: | On Dec 8, 2018, at 1:47 PM, Doc <docclv(at)windstream.net> wrote:
Our center channel would get so hot you didn't want to leave your hand on it. I read a report of vapor locking in the fuel lines in the center channel when we were building so, we put a piece of fire wall insulation over the fuel lines and sealed the heat boxes with RTV silicone also to try to keep any air flow out. Center channel was still "hot". Put fire wall insulation from Wicks on fire wall. Center channel is only "warm" now even in 90 plus degree weather. I am convinced the fire wall insulation is the major thing to do to keep the center channel cool. However, I would also recommend insulating the center channel, etc. You also have to put insulation "mats" on each side of the engine cowling or the eghaust heat will warp the cowling.
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Albert Gardner
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ
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| Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 9:56 pm Post subject: Hot center channel |
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After reading the comments I'm wondering about making a removable
restrictor/air dam in front on the scat tube. Normally need very little heat
in Arizona although last winter in Missouri max heat was needed on very cold
days. I guess one could make a shutter like dam that could be operated from
the cockpit as opposed to having to remove the top cowl. I installed a
sliding restrictor to block heat on my side in the cabin since my wife
usually wants a lot more heat than I do.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
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_________________
RV-9A N872RV
RV-10 N991RV |
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Greg McFarlane
Joined: 12 Apr 2012
Posts: 57
Location: Albany Western Australia
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| Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 2:53 am Post subject: Re: Hot center channel |
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In mild climates really only heat is required to the front and not at all to the rear. One heat muff to supply the front only cuts the heat to the firewall and so the tunnel by half. (the firewall vent for the rear can be permanently sealed off and the air out of the unused heat muff can be dumped down, or that heat muff can be removed) For the front Using a T fitting incorporating a butterfly valve (available from Spruce) the heater air from the heat muff can be diverted via a scat down toward the bottom cowl instead of blasting away at the firewall all the time the heater is not required. (which of course includes Summer) Only two push pull controls are still required, one to control the T fitting and one at the firewall valve. Using this solution the firewall valve really only needs to be full open, heater on, or fully closed heater off, this reduces the likely introduction of unwanted fumes entering the cabin with a partly opened firewall valve, heat is regulated via the T fitting out of the heat muff, the heated air is still full flowing through the heat muff so no abnormal build up of heat by restriction. Just my solution which has kept the tunnel cool. Cheeers from Western Australia
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 3:44 am Post subject: Hot center channel |
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Here is a possibility.
[img]cid:44A92444-D7BB-42D1-9F4A-312408CB7276(at)flbb.net[/img] | Quote: | On Dec 9, 2018, at 12:53 AM, Albert <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com (ibspud(at)roadrunner.com)> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Albert" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com (ibspud(at)roadrunner.com)>After reading the comments I'm wondering about making a removablerestrictor/air dam in front on the scat tube. Normally need very little heatin Arizona although last winter in Missouri max heat was needed on very colddays. I guess one could make a shutter like dam that could be operated fromthe cockpit as opposed to having to remove the top cowl. I installed asliding restrictor to block heat on my side in the cabin since my wifeusually wants a lot more heat than I do.Albert GardnerRV-10 N991RVYuma, AZhttp://wiki.matronics.com
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872
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| Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2018 6:04 am Post subject: Hot center channel |
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I just use aluminum tape and cover about 1/3 of the inlet in the baffle.
It’s easy to remove when you want full flow.
Tim
| Quote: | On Dec 8, 2018, at 11:53 PM, Albert <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> wrote:
After reading the comments I'm wondering about making a removable
restrictor/air dam in front on the scat tube. Normally need very little heat
in Arizona although last winter in Missouri max heat was needed on very cold
days. I guess one could make a shutter like dam that could be operated from
the cockpit as opposed to having to remove the top cowl. I installed a
sliding restrictor to block heat on my side in the cabin since my wife
usually wants a lot more heat than I do.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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