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Bus Bar Equivalent AWG

 
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Drum



Joined: 28 Jun 2020
Posts: 8
Location: Southport, CT

PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 4:10 am    Post subject: Bus Bar Equivalent AWG Reply with quote

Hi - I'm putting together a ground pwr jack for my RV-8. It's easier for me to connect two contactors using bus bar stock instead of AWG 4 wire. Would 0.5"x.025 brass bus bar stock on a 6'' run be acceptable? Can't find a table of brass bus bar loading data.

Thanks in advance.

Warm regards,

Drum


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Drum G
RV8 - Firewall Forward
Holly Hill, SC
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 4:35 am    Post subject: Bus Bar Equivalent AWG Reply with quote

Drum,
This would be a good time to think about how you are going to use your ground power jack, because that will inform how much current needs to flow through the jack, for how long, and will let you calculate the heat which would be generated. For instance, if you intend to use the jack to power the EFIS while you program it, update the database, etc, then the current is negligible. If you are going to hook up a battery maintainer, again, the current is negligible. If you are going to use it to jump start the airplane with a dead battery then you need to shove a lot of current, which warrants a fat wire or bus bar, but maybe removing the battery and charging it and then reinstalling it would be preferable. Even in this case, you have a lot of current but (hopefully) for a short time so not much heat.
    -- Art Z.
On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 7:23 AM Drum <dgrinalds(at)gmail.com (dgrinalds(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Quote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Drum" <dgrinalds(at)gmail.com (dgrinalds(at)gmail.com)>

Hi - I'm putting together a ground pwr jack for my RV-8.  It's easier for me to connect two contactors using bus bar stock instead of AWG 4 wire.  Would 0.5"x.025 brass bus bar stock on a 6' run be acceptable?  Can't find a table of brass bus bar loading data.
 

--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/If I am not for myself, who will be for me? If I am only for myself, what am I? If not now, when?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 5:25 am    Post subject: Bus Bar Equivalent AWG Reply with quote

Art makes a good point.
But directly to your question, #4 wire area is 0.03268...sq in. .5 x .025= 0.0125 sq in. Brass conductivity is quite a bit worse than copper. So you'd have roughly 1/3 the area, and brass has 28% of the conductivity of copper, if the area was the same.
[url=https://www.bluesea.com/resources/108/Electrical_Conductivity_of_Materials#:~:text=Brass%20is%20only%2028%25%20as,7%25%20as%20conductive%20as%20copper!&text=The%20higher%20the%20%25%20IACS%2C%20the,C%20(68%C2%B0F).]https://www.bluesea.com/resources/108/Electrical_Conductivity_of_Materials#:~:text=Brass%20is%20only%2028%25%20as,7%25%20as%20conductive%20as%20copper!&text=The%20higher%20the%20%25%20IACS%2C%20the,C%20(68%C2%B0F).[/url] 
Offsetting that is the very short distance for a bus bar (minimal total resistance). 
However, a thickness of 0.065" would give you the same area, and a piece of 3/8" copper tubing (available at your local hardware store), when flattened, would give you a 0.54" x 0.095" bar.

Charlie
On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 7:40 AM Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:

Quote:
Drum,
This would be a good time to think about how you are going to use your ground power jack, because that will inform how much current needs to flow through the jack, for how long, and will let you calculate the heat which would be generated. For instance, if you intend to use the jack to power the EFIS while you program it, update the database, etc, then the current is negligible. If you are going to hook up a battery maintainer, again, the current is negligible. If you are going to use it to jump start the airplane with a dead battery then you need to shove a lot of current, which warrants a fat wire or bus bar, but maybe removing the battery and charging it and then reinstalling it would be preferable. Even in this case, you have a lot of current but (hopefully) for a short time so not much heat.
    -- Art Z.
On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 7:23 AM Drum <dgrinalds(at)gmail.com (dgrinalds(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Quote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Drum" <dgrinalds(at)gmail.com (dgrinalds(at)gmail.com)>

Hi - I'm putting together a ground pwr jack for my RV-8.  It's easier for me to connect two contactors using bus bar stock instead of AWG 4 wire.  Would 0.5"x.025 brass bus bar stock on a 6' run be acceptable?  Can't find a table of brass bus bar loading data.
 

--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/If I am not for myself, who will be for me? If I am only for myself, what am I? If not now, when?



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 6:07 am    Post subject: Bus Bar Equivalent AWG Reply with quote

There are a couple more offsetting features of the bus bar. First, it is mounted away from everything else, so that air can circulate freely around it, helping dissipate heat. Second, it is an uninsulated piece of metal. It can get hot without damaging anything, in particular, it can get hot without melting insulation.
This is kind of a fun thought experiment but, unless you are going to crank and crank and crank your engine through that ground power jack and a set of jumper cables, I kind of doubt that the choice of a bus bar vs a #4 cable or even vs a piece of AWG 18 wire will make any practical difference.
    -- Art Z.
On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 8:42 AM Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Quote:
Art makes a good point.
But directly to your question, #4 wire area is 0.03268...sq in. .5 x .025= 0.0125 sq in. Brass conductivity is quite a bit worse than copper. So you'd have roughly 1/3 the area, and brass has 28% of the conductivity of copper, if the area was the same.
[url=https://www.bluesea.com/resources/108/Electrical_Conductivity_of_Materials#:~:text=Brass%20is%20only%2028%25%20as,7%25%20as%20conductive%20as%20copper!&text=The%20higher%20the%20%25%20IACS%2C%20the,C%20(68%C2%B0F).]https://www.bluesea.com/resources/108/Electrical_Conductivity_of_Materials#:~:text=Brass%20is%20only%2028%25%20as,7%25%20as%20conductive%20as%20copper!&text=The%20higher%20the%20%25%20IACS%2C%20the,C%20(68%C2%B0F).[/url] 
Offsetting that is the very short distance for a bus bar (minimal total resistance). 
However, a thickness of 0.065" would give you the same area, and a piece of 3/8" copper tubing (available at your local hardware store), when flattened, would give you a 0.54" x 0.095" bar.

Charlie
On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 7:40 AM Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:

Quote:
Drum,
This would be a good time to think about how you are going to use your ground power jack, because that will inform how much current needs to flow through the jack, for how long, and will let you calculate the heat which would be generated. For instance, if you intend to use the jack to power the EFIS while you program it, update the database, etc, then the current is negligible. If you are going to hook up a battery maintainer, again, the current is negligible. If you are going to use it to jump start the airplane with a dead battery then you need to shove a lot of current, which warrants a fat wire or bus bar, but maybe removing the battery and charging it and then reinstalling it would be preferable. Even in this case, you have a lot of current but (hopefully) for a short time so not much heat.
    -- Art Z.
On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 7:23 AM Drum <dgrinalds(at)gmail.com (dgrinalds(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Quote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Drum" <dgrinalds(at)gmail.com (dgrinalds(at)gmail.com)>

Hi - I'm putting together a ground pwr jack for my RV-8.  It's easier for me to connect two contactors using bus bar stock instead of AWG 4 wire.  Would 0.5"x.025 brass bus bar stock on a 6' run be acceptable?  Can't find a table of brass bus bar loading data.
 

--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/If I am not for myself, who will be for me? If I am only for myself, what am I? If not now, when?



--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/If I am not for myself, who will be for me? If I am only for myself, what am I? If not now, when?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 6:39 am    Post subject: Bus Bar Equivalent AWG Reply with quote

Quote:
However, a thickness of 0.065" would give you the same area, and a piece of 3/8" copper tubing (available at your local hardware store), when flattened, would give you a 0.54" x 0.095" bar.

Art and Charlie make excellent points. Another
possibility is to fabricate a 4AWG welding
cable jumper that's a 'bit too long' so that
it simply makes a graceful curve between the
studs.

The copper tube idea has been floated and
incorporated in projects here on the list
for decades. Copper is the bus bar material
of choice and you only need to flatten the ends
to facilitate joining at the studs. This
technique calls for attention to keeping
the two flats planar to each other.

My personal choice would be the welding
cable jumper. Easy to build, soft and
easy to work with. Does not conduct
mechanical forces between the studs.

I'm recalling an invitation I received from
an RV builder in Wichita to visit his project
in process on local airport. We had some
good discussion about various chapters of
his planning. While looking over stuff fire-wall-
forward, I noticed that he had grounded battery(-)
to the fire-wall sheet with a little chunk of aluminum
angle.

I brought this to his attention and suggested
that the thin stainless was a poor conductor
and that forcing it to carry battery recharge
and starter cranking currents offer potential
for serious ground-loop effects. But more important,
the battery mass was getting tied to airframe
by non-structural battery terminal by way
of a non-ferrous hunk of metal that was almost
guaranteed to be his first electrical system
failure.

I think he was rather fond of his short-n-
simple grounding idea . . . he got a bit incensed
but it was about time for me to depart anyhow.
Never did hear any follow-up on the project.
But it's an experience that reminds me to
ponder system rigidity between significant
chunks of hardware when making hard connection
to studs designed for terminating relatively
soft wires.


Bob . . .


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 7:12 am    Post subject: Bus Bar Equivalent AWG Reply with quote

On 7/2/2020 9:37 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:

Quote:
Quote:
However, a thickness of 0.065" would give you the same area, and a piece of 3/8" copper tubing (available at your local hardware store), when flattened, would give you a 0.54" x 0.095" bar.

  Art and Charlie make excellent points. Another
  possibility is to fabricate a 4AWG welding
  cable jumper that's a 'bit too long' so that
  it simply makes a graceful curve between the
  studs.

  The copper tube idea has been floated and
  incorporated in projects here on the list
  for decades. Copper is the bus bar material
  of choice and you only need to flatten the ends
  to facilitate joining at the studs. This
  technique calls for attention to keeping
  the two flats planar to each other.

  My personal choice would be the welding
  cable jumper. Easy to build, soft and
  easy to work with. Does not conduct
  mechanical forces between the studs.

  I'm recalling an invitation I received from
  an RV builder in Wichita to visit his project
  in process on local airport. We had some
  good discussion about various chapters of
  his planning. While looking over stuff fire-wall-
  forward, I noticed that he had grounded battery(-)
  to the fire-wall sheet with a little chunk of aluminum
  angle.

  I brought this to his attention and suggested
  that the thin stainless was a poor conductor
  and that forcing it to carry battery recharge
  and starter cranking currents offer potential
  for serious ground-loop effects. But more important,
  the battery mass was getting tied to airframe
  by non-structural battery terminal by way
  of a non-ferrous hunk of metal that was almost
  guaranteed to be his first electrical system
  failure.

  I think he was rather fond of his short-n-
  simple grounding idea . . . he got a bit incensed
  but it was about time for me to depart anyhow.
  Never did hear any follow-up on the project.
  But it's an experience that reminds me to
  ponder system rigidity between significant
  chunks of hardware when making hard connection
  to studs designed for terminating relatively
  soft wires.


  Bob . . .
I do try to put some variation of an 'S' curve in the flattened copper tubing, when I use that trick. Helps relieve flex stress in one direction, anyway...

Charlie
Virus-free. www.avast.com [url=#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2] [/url]


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Drum



Joined: 28 Jun 2020
Posts: 8
Location: Southport, CT

PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2020 7:42 am    Post subject: Re: Bus Bar Equivalent AWG Reply with quote

Thank you for your help. I will look for the welding cable jumper. My installation is aft. Turns out on the RV8, the battery tray has 4 nut plate attachment points for the contractors to sit. Forward, those would be the battery master and starter contactors but aft I am planning on using the locations for the battery master and ground power contactors.

Of course, since the two contactors are connected to the same rigid surface, there might not be so many large movements relative to one another, but there is enough movement to eventually create issues.

My two objectives here are to make sure there is not interference between wiring of battery and ground power and the elevator bellcrank/pitch servo which are located just aft of the battery in the RV8. Secondly, want to make it straightforward to disconnect the wiring from the battery to allow removal of the aft baggage floor permitting access to this area.

I will send pictures when I get the opportunity.

Thanks,

Drum


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RV8 - Firewall Forward
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2020 9:22 am    Post subject: Bus Bar Equivalent AWG Reply with quote

At 10:42 AM 7/5/2020, you wrote:
Quote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Drum" <dgrinalds(at)gmail.com>

Thank you for your help. I will look for the welding cable jumper. My installation is aft. Turns out on the RV8, the battery tray has 4 nut plate attachment points for the contractors to sit. Forward, those would be the battery master and starter contactors but aft I am planning on using the locations for the battery master and ground power contactors.

Of course, since the two contactors are connected to the same rigid surface, there might not be so many large movements relative to one another, but there is enough movement to eventually create issues.

My two objectives here are to make sure there is not interference between wiring of battery and ground power and the elevator bellcrank/pitch servo which are located just aft of the battery in the RV8. Secondly, want to make it straightforward to disconnect the wiring from the battery to allow removal of the aft baggage floor permitting access to this area.

I will send pictures when I get the opportunity.

great! thanks.



Bob . . .


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