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Fuel Mixture

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mike(at)vision499.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 8:16 am Post subject: Fuel Mixture

I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had

Zero hours since

 

I started the motor recently and there are loud “pops” out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.

 

Fuel pressure is good

 

I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.

 

Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

Mike Pienaar

mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)

Home: +1 250-999-8121

Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554

1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2

 

  	          		Virus-free. www.avast.com 		 	 [url=#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2] [/url]

sjbeaver(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 9:00 am Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Mike.

There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.



Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 



First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.



Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.



Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.



How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.



If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.



Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 



Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes) Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had

Zero hours since

 

I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.

 

Fuel pressure is good

 

I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.

 

Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

Mike Pienaar

mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)

Home: +1 250-999-8121

Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554

1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2

 



Virus-free. www.avast.com

mike(at)vision499.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 9:02 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Hello Steve,

 

Thanks you so very much for the detailed reply, I really appreciate it. I did not make myself very clear, I have the fuel pump with the adjustment nut at the rear and not the pump with the â€œpizza sliceâ€ but judging from what you said I donâ€™t think it will make a difference.

 

I will follow your testing procedure and let you know what happens

 

I just wanted some confirmation that it is safe to run the engine even though it is â€œpoppingâ€

 

I have the propeller with reverse thrust, under the reverse thrust control module there is what appears to be a solenoid and an oil leak developed at the solenoid seal that was due to an â€œoâ€ ring that had lost all elasticity. I was fearful that there may be more instances of this. Can you suggest anything else that I should replace or renew.

 

Do you think that I could remove the reverse thrust module completely and connect directly from the governor to the hub?

 

I have met with Pavel and he welded up my engine mount for me but have not had contact for a few years.

 

I have also heard that the magneto seals and harnesses are not good quality and should be replaced and would appreciate your opinion

 

Thanks again

 

Mike

 

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM

To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Mike.

 



There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.



 



Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 



 



First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.



 



Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.



 



Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.



 



How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.



 



If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.



 



Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 



 



Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189

 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had



Zero hours since



 



I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.



 



Fuel pressure is good



 



I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.



 



Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



Mike Pienaar



mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)



Home: +1 250-999-8121



Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554



1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2



 



 



Virus-free. www.avast.com

sjbeaver(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:56 am Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Hi Mike,

I'm afraid I know absolutely nothing about the reversing unit. It is not included in any of the manuals I have; operation, installation or overhaul. 



It is common practice to replace the ignition harness and spark plugs. Pavel developed a modification that uses NGK plugs and caps with modern stainless steel cored wire. People do this not because the existing harness is a source of problems (as far as I know) but because the 12mm PAL spark plugs are hard to find and expensive. I have converted quite a number of engines to NGK with excellent results and at less than US$2 each for the plugs it is an inexpensive mod. If replacement plugs are not a concern, I would leave it alone, however.



There is a modification that can be done to the magneto mounting boss that allows an o-ring to be installed which in turn prevents oil draining into the magneto. I have not done this partly because it requires machining and partly because I have never had a problem with the mags. At annual inspection time I remove the caps and wipe clean any oil mist I find, but I don't often find much. If your engine has been idle for a long time it might be worth checking the inside of the mags for oil and while you are there, cleaning and gapping the contacts. Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 19, 2020, at 1:01 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

Hello Steve,

 

Thanks you so very much for the detailed reply, I really appreciate it. I did not make myself very clear, I have the fuel pump with the adjustment nut at the rear and not the pump with the â€œpizza sliceâ€ but judging from what you said I donâ€™t think it will make a difference.

 

I will follow your testing procedure and let you know what happens

 

I just wanted some confirmation that it is safe to run the engine even though it is â€œpoppingâ€

 

I have the propeller with reverse thrust, under the reverse thrust control module there is what appears to be a solenoid and an oil leak developed at the solenoid seal that was due to an â€œoâ€ ring that had lost all elasticity. I was fearful that there may be more instances of this. Can you suggest anything else that I should replace or renew.

 

Do you think that I could remove the reverse thrust module completely and connect directly from the governor to the hub?

 

I have met with Pavel and he welded up my engine mount for me but have not had contact for a few years.

 

I have also heard that the magneto seals and harnesses are not good quality and should be replaced and would appreciate your opinion

 

Thanks again

 

Mike

 

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AMTo: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Mike.

 



There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.



 



Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 



 



First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.



 



Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.



 



Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.



 



How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.



 



If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.



 



Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 



 



Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had



Zero hours since



 



I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.



 



Fuel pressure is good



 



I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.



 



Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



Mike Pienaar



mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)



Home: +1 250-999-8121



Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554



1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2



 



 



Virus-free. www.avast.com

mike(at)vision499.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 7:25 am Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Thanks again Steve,

 

Does the spark plug conversion require new threads in the cylinder head?Â  Will try and get hold of Pavel and see about the harness replacement later.

 

Where are you situated?

 

Thanks and keep well

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 19, 2020 4:56 AM

To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Hi Mike,

 



I'm afraid I know absolutely nothing about the reversing unit. It is not included in any of the manuals I have; operation, installation or overhaul. 



 



It is common practice to replace the ignition harness and spark plugs. Pavel developed a modification that uses NGK plugs and caps with modern stainless steel cored wire. People do this not because the existing harness is a source of problems (as far as I know) but because the 12mm PAL spark plugs are hard to find and expensive. I have converted quite a number of engines to NGK with excellent results and at less than US$2 each for the plugs it is an inexpensive mod. If replacement plugs are not a concern, I would leave it alone, however.



 



There is a modification that can be done to the magneto mounting boss that allows an o-ring to be installed which in turn prevents oil draining into the magneto. I have not done this partly because it requires machining and partly because I have never had a problem with the mags. At annual inspection time I remove the caps and wipe clean any oil mist I find, but I don't often find much. If your engine has been idle for a long time it might be worth checking the inside of the mags for oil and while you are there, cleaning and gapping the contacts.



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 19, 2020, at 1:01 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve,



 



Thanks you so very much for the detailed reply, I really appreciate it. I did not make myself very clear, I have the fuel pump with the adjustment nut at the rear and not the pump with the â€œpizza sliceâ€ but judging from what you said I donâ€™t think it will make a difference.



 



I will follow your testing procedure and let you know what happens



 



I just wanted some confirmation that it is safe to run the engine even though it is â€œpoppingâ€



 



I have the propeller with reverse thrust, under the reverse thrust control module there is what appears to be a solenoid and an oil leak developed at the solenoid seal that was due to an â€œoâ€ ring that had lost all elasticity. I was fearful that there may be more instances of this. Can you suggest anything else that I should replace or renew.



 



Do you think that I could remove the reverse thrust module completely and connect directly from the governor to the hub?



 



I have met with Pavel and he welded up my engine mount for me but have not had contact for a few years.



 



I have also heard that the magneto seals and harnesses are not good quality and should be replaced and would appreciate your opinion



 



Thanks again



 



Mike



 



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM

To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Mike.



 

There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.

 

Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 

 

First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.

 

Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.

 

Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.

 

How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.

 

If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.

 

Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 

 

Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)

Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had

Zero hours since

 

I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.

 

Fuel pressure is good

 

I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.

 

Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

Mike Pienaar

mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)

Home: +1 250-999-8121

Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554

1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2

 

 







Virus-free. www.avast.com

sjbeaver(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 8:37 am Post subject: Fuel Mixture

No. The NGK plugs are the same thread as the originals. I can give you the ordering information/parts list when you are ready Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 19, 2020, at 11:24 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

Thanks again Steve,

 

Does the spark plug conversion require new threads in the cylinder head?  Will try and get hold of Pavel and see about the harness replacement later.

 

Where are you situated?

 

Thanks and keep well

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 19, 2020 4:56 AMTo: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Hi Mike,

 



I'm afraid I know absolutely nothing about the reversing unit. It is not included in any of the manuals I have; operation, installation or overhaul. 



 



It is common practice to replace the ignition harness and spark plugs. Pavel developed a modification that uses NGK plugs and caps with modern stainless steel cored wire. People do this not because the existing harness is a source of problems (as far as I know) but because the 12mm PAL spark plugs are hard to find and expensive. I have converted quite a number of engines to NGK with excellent results and at less than US$2 each for the plugs it is an inexpensive mod. If replacement plugs are not a concern, I would leave it alone, however.



 



There is a modification that can be done to the magneto mounting boss that allows an o-ring to be installed which in turn prevents oil draining into the magneto. I have not done this partly because it requires machining and partly because I have never had a problem with the mags. At annual inspection time I remove the caps and wipe clean any oil mist I find, but I don't often find much. If your engine has been idle for a long time it might be worth checking the inside of the mags for oil and while you are there, cleaning and gapping the contacts.

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 19, 2020, at 1:01 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve,



 



Thanks you so very much for the detailed reply, I really appreciate it. I did not make myself very clear, I have the fuel pump with the adjustment nut at the rear and not the pump with the â€œpizza sliceâ€ but judging from what you said I donâ€™t think it will make a difference.



 



I will follow your testing procedure and let you know what happens



 



I just wanted some confirmation that it is safe to run the engine even though it is â€œpoppingâ€



 



I have the propeller with reverse thrust, under the reverse thrust control module there is what appears to be a solenoid and an oil leak developed at the solenoid seal that was due to an â€œoâ€ ring that had lost all elasticity. I was fearful that there may be more instances of this. Can you suggest anything else that I should replace or renew.



 



Do you think that I could remove the reverse thrust module completely and connect directly from the governor to the hub?



 



I have met with Pavel and he welded up my engine mount for me but have not had contact for a few years.



 



I have also heard that the magneto seals and harnesses are not good quality and should be replaced and would appreciate your opinion



 



Thanks again



 



Mike



 



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AMTo: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Mike.



 

There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.

 

Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 

 

First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.

 

Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.

 

Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.

 

How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.

 

If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.

 

Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 

 

Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)



Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189





 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had

Zero hours since

 

I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.

 

Fuel pressure is good

 

I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.

 

Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

Mike Pienaar

mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)

Home: +1 250-999-8121

Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554

1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2

 

 







Virus-free. www.avast.com

mike(at)vision499.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2020 6:33 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Hello Steve,

 

I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.

 

I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?

 

Have not tried to start it again but will let you know

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM

To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Mike.

 



There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.



 



Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 



 



First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.



 



Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.



 



Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.



 



How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.



 



If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.



 



Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 



 



Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189

 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had



Zero hours since



 



I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.



 



Fuel pressure is good



 



I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.



 



Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



Mike Pienaar



mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)



Home: +1 250-999-8121



Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554



1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2



 



 



Virus-free. www.avast.com

sjbeaver(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2020 6:57 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing? Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

Hello Steve,

 

I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.

 

I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?

 

Have not tried to start it again but will let you know

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AMTo: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Mike.

 



There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.



 



Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 



 



First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.



 



Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.



 



Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.



 



How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.



 



If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.



 



Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 



 



Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had



Zero hours since



 



I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.



 



Fuel pressure is good



 



I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.



 



Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



Mike Pienaar



mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)



Home: +1 250-999-8121



Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554



1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2



 



 



Virus-free. www.avast.com

mike(at)vision499.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2020 8:06 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Hello Steve

 

I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere? 

 

Thanks for you help

 

Mike

 

 

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve,



 



I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.



 



I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?



 



Have not tried to start it again but will let you know



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM

To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Mike.



 

There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.

 

Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 

 

First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.

 

Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.

 

Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.

 

How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.

 

If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.

 

Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 

 

Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)

Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had

Zero hours since

 

I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.

 

Fuel pressure is good

 

I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.

 

Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

Mike Pienaar

mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)

Home: +1 250-999-8121

Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554

1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2

 

 







Virus-free. www.avast.com

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Filesize:

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Viewed:

15222 Time(s)

kalos53(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2020 8:10 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Is the LOM 332 still being sold in North America?

Seems to me this was a good engine that received poor factory support and marketing, and thus "failed" in the North American market.



On Sun, Aug 23, 2020 at 9:06 PM <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  

Hello Steve

Â 

I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere? 

Â 

Thanks for you help

Â 

Mike

Â 

Â 

Â 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

Â 

Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?



Steve

--Â 

Stephen Beaver

Tel: Â Â Â Â 614-937 4189



Â 



Â 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



Â 

Hello Steve,



Â 



I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.



Â 



I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?



Â 



Have not tried to start it again but will let you know



Â 



Thanks



Â 



Mike



Â 



From:Â owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)Â <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)>Â On Behalf OfÂ sjbeaver

Sent:Â August 18, 2020 10:00 AM

To:Â Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>

Subject:Â Re: Fuel Mixture



Â 



Mike.



Â 

There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.

Â 

Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 

Â 

First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . ) Â is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.

Â 

Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.

Â 

Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.

Â 

How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.

Â 

If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.

Â 

Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions.Â 

Â 

Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)

Steve

--Â 

Stephen Beaver

Tel: Â Â Â Â 614-937 4189



Â 







 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

Â 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had

Zero hours since

Â 

I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.

Â 

Fuel pressure is good

Â 

I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.

Â 

Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing.Â 

Â 

Thanks

Â 

Mike

Â 

Mike Pienaar

mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)

Home: +1 250-999-8121

Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554

1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2

Â 

Â 







Virus-free.Â www.avast.com

	


	




Â

sjbeaver(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 4:07 am Post subject: Fuel Mixture

That is a surprising amount of oil. In a normally functioning, current revision engine I would expect to see perhaps a table spoon of oil. In the older style pump with a filler port on the side, perhaps a cup. Then again I have never left the pump open overnight. There is a connection from the engine oil system to the pump in that one of the factors the pump uses to set the fuel mixture is oil pressure.

I would suggest proceeding as follows:



1.	Remove the drain plug/screen under the scavenge pump. How much oil do you see there? If you see a a cup or more then I would suggest all is well. If you see almost none then it would appear that the cam case oil is somehow leaking into the injection pump. This seems unlikely though



2.	Put everything back together and run the engine. Asses the performance per my previous email and then remove the oil drain plug in the pump again. How much oil this time? (Use something more scientific than the hangar floor to measure it  ) Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:04 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

Hello Steve

 

I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere? 

 

Thanks for you help

 

Mike

 

 

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PMTo: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve,



 



I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.



 



I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?



 



Have not tried to start it again but will let you know



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AMTo: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Mike.



 

There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.

 

Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 

 

First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.

 

Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.

 

Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.

 

How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.

 

If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.

 

Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 

 

Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)



Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189





 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had

Zero hours since

 

I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.

 

Fuel pressure is good

 

I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.

 

Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

Mike Pienaar

mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)

Home: +1 250-999-8121

Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554

1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2

 

 







Virus-free. www.avast.com



	


	


 



<OIL-DRAIN.JPG>

sjbeaver(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 4:26 am Post subject: Fuel Mixture

The engine is not currently in production, but the factory is tooling up to restart, possibly with an updated version featuring electronic ignition and a reduced overall length.

From my experience I would say that of the several parties that have "represented" LOM in the USA two of them were crooks and were actually convicted of various forms of fraud. The final one, Moravia of Thunder Bay, Canada provided very good service and support. I believe they did their best to serve the marked in an honest and proper manner.



Again in my opinion, there is, and always has been a certain naÃ¯vety in the relationship between some countries and the USA.



From the former Czech Republic, particularly in the 1990s and 2000s, the USA looks like the world's biggest aviation market with the skies full of wealthy aircraft owners and builders needing engines. The 1930s tractor technology we bolt to the front of our aircraft (there was no Rotax 912 at the time) is crude in the extreme while the LOM has multi-point sequential fuel injection, overhead cam, automatic mixture control, no hot-start problems, etc, etc. Clearly a superior product for a huge, hungry market. What could possibly go wrong?



From the USA, the Czech Republic looks like an ex-Communist country where they make crude, unreliable products. There is a sole source of parts thousands of miles away where they don't even speak English so buying anything from there is a huge risk. How could that possibly work?



Neither of the above are even close to being true, but it was always a divide that would be difficult to bridge. Let's hope things wok out better this time around. I would like to think that both parties are more enlightened these days, but I have my doubts.



 Modern communications do help. Today I can email a parts request to the factory and have them arrive in short order via UPS. Geography is not so important these days.

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:09 AM, Placeholder <kalos53(at)gmail.com (kalos53(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

Is the LOM 332 still being sold in North America?



Seems to me this was a good engine that received poor factory support and marketing, and thus "failed" in the North American market.

mike(at)vision499.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2020 3:28 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Hello 

 

I have been away for a while but back now.

 

I drained the sump on the Cam Cover and there was about a cup of oil.

 

There is a large plug on the side of the fuel pump and I assumed that this is the levelÂ  the oil is supposed to be that is mentioned in the manual. I filled the fuel pump to this level and it took about Â¼ cup or +/- 60ml

 

When I tried to start the engine there is now nothing, not even a â€œpoofâ€ or even one firing on the primer fuel. Â I tested for spark and that seems to be OK, and I can hear the Slickstart buzzing when I power it up

 

I removed all the plugs and fuel injector nozzles, I fitted a nut to one of the nozzles and rotated the prop by hand, I got one squirt of gas out of the nozzle but after that I only saw drops forming at the tip of the nozzle.

 

Is the return oil line that runs from the fuel pump to the sump equipped with a one way valve? I thought of running oil into the fuel pump and then checking if oil runs out of the sump plug cam case plug. Not sure if there is a direct connection, but there must be something that stops the cam case oil draining into the fuel pump.

 

The deposits at the rear of the exhaust manifold is darkish gray

 

Would appreciate you suggestions. 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 24, 2020 5:08 AM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

That is a surprising amount of oil. In a normally functioning, current revision engine I would expect to see perhaps a table spoon of oil. In the older style pump with a filler port on the side, perhaps a cup. Then again I have never left the pump open overnight. There is a connection from the engine oil system to the pump in that one of the factors the pump uses to set the fuel mixture is oil pressure.

 



I would suggest proceeding as follows:



 



1.Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Remove the drain plug/screen under the scavenge pump. How much oil do you see there? If you see a a cup or more then I would suggest all is well. If you see almost none then it would appear that the cam case oil is somehow leaking into the injection pump. This seems unlikely though



 



2.Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Put everything back together and run the engine. Asses the performance per my previous email and then remove the oil drain plug in the pump again. How much oil this time? (Use something more scientific than the hangar floor to measure it  )



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189

 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:04 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve



 



I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere? 



 



Thanks for you help



 



Mike



 



 



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?

Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189

 

 

 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



Hello Steve,

 

I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.

 

I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?

 

Have not tried to start it again but will let you know

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM

To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture





 

Mike.

 



There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.



 



Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 



 



First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.



 



Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.



 



Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.



 



How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.



 



If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.



 



Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 



 



Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189





 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had



Zero hours since



 



I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.



 



Fuel pressure is good



 



I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.



 



Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



Mike Pienaar



mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)



Home: +1 250-999-8121



Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554



1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2



 



 



Virus-free. www.avast.com



	


	




 



<OIL-DRAIN.JPG>

sjbeaver(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2020 11:39 am Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Mike,

Those are interesting results! You appear to have the older style pump and you are correct that it should be serviced with engine oil up to the level of the filler plugs.



If there is a spark (at about the correct time) and the primer is delivering fuel then it is hard to understand why it didn't fire to some extent. Could it have been flooded? Inverted engines are rather prone to flooding. You can try clearing the engine out by propping it backwards, but waiting for 20 minutes and trying again with the throttle about half way open is usually best.



I am confused by your reference to the "return oil line from the fuel pump". There should be three connections to the pump: fuel inlet, fuel return and fuel pressure. Older pumps may also have a hose nipple on the side to vent the oil system. This is usually connected to  small hose running upwards above the level of the and is open at the  top. Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Sep 6, 2020, at 7:28 PM, mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com) wrote:

Hello 

 

I have been away for a while but back now.

 

I drained the sump on the Cam Cover and there was about a cup of oil.

 

There is a large plug on the side of the fuel pump and I assumed that this is the level  the oil is supposed to be that is mentioned in the manual. I filled the fuel pump to this level and it took about Â¼ cup or +/- 60ml

 

When I tried to start the engine there is now nothing, not even a â€œpoofâ€ or even one firing on the primer fuel.  I tested for spark and that seems to be OK, and I can hear the Slickstart buzzing when I power it up

 

I removed all the plugs and fuel injector nozzles, I fitted a nut to one of the nozzles and rotated the prop by hand, I got one squirt of gas out of the nozzle but after that I only saw drops forming at the tip of the nozzle.

 

Is the return oil line that runs from the fuel pump to the sump equipped with a one way valve? I thought of running oil into the fuel pump and then checking if oil runs out of the sump plug cam case plug. Not sure if there is a direct connection, but there must be something that stops the cam case oil draining into the fuel pump.

 

The deposits at the rear of the exhaust manifold is darkish gray

 

Would appreciate you suggestions. 

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 24, 2020 5:08 AMTo: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

That is a surprising amount of oil. In a normally functioning, current revision engine I would expect to see perhaps a table spoon of oil. In the older style pump with a filler port on the side, perhaps a cup. Then again I have never left the pump open overnight. There is a connection from the engine oil system to the pump in that one of the factors the pump uses to set the fuel mixture is oil pressure.

 



I would suggest proceeding as follows:



 



1.            Remove the drain plug/screen under the scavenge pump. How much oil do you see there? If you see a a cup or more then I would suggest all is well. If you see almost none then it would appear that the cam case oil is somehow leaking into the injection pump. This seems unlikely though



 



2.            Put everything back together and run the engine. Asses the performance per my previous email and then remove the oil drain plug in the pump again. How much oil this time? (Use something more scientific than the hangar floor to measure it  )

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:04 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve



 



I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere? 



 



Thanks for you help



 



Mike



 



 



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PMTo: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?



Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189

 

 





 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



Hello Steve,

 

I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.

 

I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?

 

Have not tried to start it again but will let you know

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AMTo: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture





 

Mike.

 



There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.



 



Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 



 



First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.



 



Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.



 



Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.



 



How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.



 



If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.



 



Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 



 



Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had



Zero hours since



 



I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.



 



Fuel pressure is good



 



I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.



 



Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



Mike Pienaar



mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)



Home: +1 250-999-8121



Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554



1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2



 



 



Virus-free. www.avast.com





	


	


 



<OIL-DRAIN.JPG>

mike(at)vision499.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2020 2:01 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Thank you very much, I think it was flooded and then I took the spark plugs out and blew compressed air through the plug holes. When I tried again I might have been wary of flooding it again and did not prime enough. Will try again to-morrow.

 

Is there an easy way to check ignition timing?

 

When I mentioned the "return oil line from the fuel pump" I was referring to the oil passages that I presume run through the mounting flange between the fuel pump and the cam shaft sump. One to supply oil and one to drain.

 

Will let you know what happens to-morrow

 

Thanks again

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: September 7, 2020 12:39 PM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Mike,

 



Those are interesting results! You appear to have the older style pump and you are correct that it should be serviced with engine oil up to the level of the filler plugs.



 



If there is a spark (at about the correct time) and the primer is delivering fuel then it is hard to understand why it didn't fire to some extent. Could it have been flooded? Inverted engines are rather prone to flooding. You can try clearing the engine out by propping it backwards, but waiting for 20 minutes and trying again with the throttle about half way open is usually best.



 



I am confused by your reference to the "return oil line from the fuel pump". There should be three connections to the pump: fuel inlet, fuel return and fuel pressure. Older pumps may also have a hose nipple on the side to vent the oil system. This is usually connected to  small hose running upwards above the level of the and is open at the  top.



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Sep 6, 2020, at 7:28 PM, mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com) wrote:



 

Hello 



 



I have been away for a while but back now.



 



I drained the sump on the Cam Cover and there was about a cup of oil.



 



There is a large plug on the side of the fuel pump and I assumed that this is the level  the oil is supposed to be that is mentioned in the manual. I filled the fuel pump to this level and it took about Â¼ cup or +/- 60ml



 



When I tried to start the engine there is now nothing, not even a â€œpoofâ€ or even one firing on the primer fuel.  I tested for spark and that seems to be OK, and I can hear the Slickstart buzzing when I power it up



 



I removed all the plugs and fuel injector nozzles, I fitted a nut to one of the nozzles and rotated the prop by hand, I got one squirt of gas out of the nozzle but after that I only saw drops forming at the tip of the nozzle.



 



Is the return oil line that runs from the fuel pump to the sump equipped with a one way valve? I thought of running oil into the fuel pump and then checking if oil runs out of the sump plug cam case plug. Not sure if there is a direct connection, but there must be something that stops the cam case oil draining into the fuel pump.



 



The deposits at the rear of the exhaust manifold is darkish gray



 



Would appreciate you suggestions. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 24, 2020 5:08 AM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



That is a surprising amount of oil. In a normally functioning, current revision engine I would expect to see perhaps a table spoon of oil. In the older style pump with a filler port on the side, perhaps a cup. Then again I have never left the pump open overnight. There is a connection from the engine oil system to the pump in that one of the factors the pump uses to set the fuel mixture is oil pressure.



 

I would suggest proceeding as follows:

 

1.            Remove the drain plug/screen under the scavenge pump. How much oil do you see there? If you see a a cup or more then I would suggest all is well. If you see almost none then it would appear that the cam case oil is somehow leaking into the injection pump. This seems unlikely though

 

2.            Put everything back together and run the engine. Asses the performance per my previous email and then remove the oil drain plug in the pump again. How much oil this time? (Use something more scientific than the hangar floor to measure it  )

Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:04 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



Hello Steve

 

I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere? 

 

Thanks for you help

 

Mike

 

 

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture





 

Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve,



 



I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.



 



I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?



 



Have not tried to start it again but will let you know



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM

To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Mike.



 





There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.





 





Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 





 





First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.





 





Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.





 





Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.





 





How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.





 





If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.





 





Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 





 





Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)





Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:





 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had





Zero hours since





 





I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.





 





Fuel pressure is good





 





I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.





 





Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 





 





Thanks





 





Mike





 





Mike Pienaar





mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)





Home: +1 250-999-8121





Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554





1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2





 





 







Virus-free. www.avast.com





	


	




 

<OIL-DRAIN.JPG>

mike(at)vision499.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2020 2:11 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Hello again Steve, 

 

I was not aware that there is Â more than one style of pump available. Is the â€œnewâ€ an improvement and is it still possible to get a pump or other items

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: September 7, 2020 12:39 PM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Mike,

 



Those are interesting results! You appear to have the older style pump and you are correct that it should be serviced with engine oil up to the level of the filler plugs.



 



If there is a spark (at about the correct time) and the primer is delivering fuel then it is hard to understand why it didn't fire to some extent. Could it have been flooded? Inverted engines are rather prone to flooding. You can try clearing the engine out by propping it backwards, but waiting for 20 minutes and trying again with the throttle about half way open is usually best.



 



I am confused by your reference to the "return oil line from the fuel pump". There should be three connections to the pump: fuel inlet, fuel return and fuel pressure. Older pumps may also have a hose nipple on the side to vent the oil system. This is usually connected to  small hose running upwards above the level of the and is open at the  top.



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Sep 6, 2020, at 7:28 PM, mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com) wrote:



 

Hello 



 



I have been away for a while but back now.



 



I drained the sump on the Cam Cover and there was about a cup of oil.



 



There is a large plug on the side of the fuel pump and I assumed that this is the level  the oil is supposed to be that is mentioned in the manual. I filled the fuel pump to this level and it took about Â¼ cup or +/- 60ml



 



When I tried to start the engine there is now nothing, not even a â€œpoofâ€ or even one firing on the primer fuel.  I tested for spark and that seems to be OK, and I can hear the Slickstart buzzing when I power it up



 



I removed all the plugs and fuel injector nozzles, I fitted a nut to one of the nozzles and rotated the prop by hand, I got one squirt of gas out of the nozzle but after that I only saw drops forming at the tip of the nozzle.



 



Is the return oil line that runs from the fuel pump to the sump equipped with a one way valve? I thought of running oil into the fuel pump and then checking if oil runs out of the sump plug cam case plug. Not sure if there is a direct connection, but there must be something that stops the cam case oil draining into the fuel pump.



 



The deposits at the rear of the exhaust manifold is darkish gray



 



Would appreciate you suggestions. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 24, 2020 5:08 AM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



That is a surprising amount of oil. In a normally functioning, current revision engine I would expect to see perhaps a table spoon of oil. In the older style pump with a filler port on the side, perhaps a cup. Then again I have never left the pump open overnight. There is a connection from the engine oil system to the pump in that one of the factors the pump uses to set the fuel mixture is oil pressure.



 

I would suggest proceeding as follows:

 

1.            Remove the drain plug/screen under the scavenge pump. How much oil do you see there? If you see a a cup or more then I would suggest all is well. If you see almost none then it would appear that the cam case oil is somehow leaking into the injection pump. This seems unlikely though

 

2.            Put everything back together and run the engine. Asses the performance per my previous email and then remove the oil drain plug in the pump again. How much oil this time? (Use something more scientific than the hangar floor to measure it  )

Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:04 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



Hello Steve

 

I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere? 

 

Thanks for you help

 

Mike

 

 

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PM

To: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture





 

Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?



Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve,



 



I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.



 



I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?



 



Have not tried to start it again but will let you know



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaver

Sent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AM

To: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>

Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Mike.



 





There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.





 





Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 





 





First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.





 





Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.





 





Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.





 





How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.





 





If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.





 





Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 





 





Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)





Steve

-- 

Stephen Beaver

Tel:     614-937 4189



 



 	  Quote: 	
		  

On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:





 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had





Zero hours since





 





I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.





 





Fuel pressure is good





 





I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.





 





Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 





 





Thanks





 





Mike





 





Mike Pienaar





mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)





Home: +1 250-999-8121





Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554





1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2





 





 







Virus-free. www.avast.com





	


	




 

<OIL-DRAIN.JPG>

sjbeaver(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Sep 07, 2020 2:17 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

There have been a total of four pump styles I believe, but unless you are an active aerobatic competitor, there is really not that much to be gained by changing. I have the model after yours, but still not the current version. It performs perfectly well. Most of the changes were related to smoother transitions from upright to inverted flight. Attempts to eliminate what was known s "Zlin cough". Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Sep 7, 2020, at 6:11 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

Hello again Steve, 

 

I was not aware that there is  more than one style of pump available. Is the â€œnewâ€ an improvement and is it still possible to get a pump or other items

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: September 7, 2020 12:39 PMTo: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Mike,

 



Those are interesting results! You appear to have the older style pump and you are correct that it should be serviced with engine oil up to the level of the filler plugs.



 



If there is a spark (at about the correct time) and the primer is delivering fuel then it is hard to understand why it didn't fire to some extent. Could it have been flooded? Inverted engines are rather prone to flooding. You can try clearing the engine out by propping it backwards, but waiting for 20 minutes and trying again with the throttle about half way open is usually best.



 



I am confused by your reference to the "return oil line from the fuel pump". There should be three connections to the pump: fuel inlet, fuel return and fuel pressure. Older pumps may also have a hose nipple on the side to vent the oil system. This is usually connected to  small hose running upwards above the level of the and is open at the  top.

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Sep 6, 2020, at 7:28 PM, mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com) wrote:



 

Hello 



 



I have been away for a while but back now.



 



I drained the sump on the Cam Cover and there was about a cup of oil.



 



There is a large plug on the side of the fuel pump and I assumed that this is the level  the oil is supposed to be that is mentioned in the manual. I filled the fuel pump to this level and it took about Â¼ cup or +/- 60ml



 



When I tried to start the engine there is now nothing, not even a â€œpoofâ€ or even one firing on the primer fuel.  I tested for spark and that seems to be OK, and I can hear the Slickstart buzzing when I power it up



 



I removed all the plugs and fuel injector nozzles, I fitted a nut to one of the nozzles and rotated the prop by hand, I got one squirt of gas out of the nozzle but after that I only saw drops forming at the tip of the nozzle.



 



Is the return oil line that runs from the fuel pump to the sump equipped with a one way valve? I thought of running oil into the fuel pump and then checking if oil runs out of the sump plug cam case plug. Not sure if there is a direct connection, but there must be something that stops the cam case oil draining into the fuel pump.



 



The deposits at the rear of the exhaust manifold is darkish gray



 



Would appreciate you suggestions. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 24, 2020 5:08 AMTo: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



That is a surprising amount of oil. In a normally functioning, current revision engine I would expect to see perhaps a table spoon of oil. In the older style pump with a filler port on the side, perhaps a cup. Then again I have never left the pump open overnight. There is a connection from the engine oil system to the pump in that one of the factors the pump uses to set the fuel mixture is oil pressure.



 

I would suggest proceeding as follows:

 

1.            Remove the drain plug/screen under the scavenge pump. How much oil do you see there? If you see a a cup or more then I would suggest all is well. If you see almost none then it would appear that the cam case oil is somehow leaking into the injection pump. This seems unlikely though

 

2.            Put everything back together and run the engine. Asses the performance per my previous email and then remove the oil drain plug in the pump again. How much oil this time? (Use something more scientific than the hangar floor to measure it  )



Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189





 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:04 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



Hello Steve

 

I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere? 

 

Thanks for you help

 

Mike

 

 

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PMTo: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture





 

Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve,



 



I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.



 



I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?



 



Have not tried to start it again but will let you know



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AMTo: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Mike.



 





There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.





 





Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 





 





First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.





 





Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.





 





Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.





 





How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.





 





If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.





 





Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 





 





Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)



Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189

 





 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:





 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had





Zero hours since





 





I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.





 





Fuel pressure is good





 





I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.





 





Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 





 





Thanks





 





Mike





 





Mike Pienaar





mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)





Home: +1 250-999-8121





Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554





1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2





 





 







Virus-free. www.avast.com



	


	


 

<OIL-DRAIN.JPG>

sjbeaver(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2020 12:18 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

The method to check ignition timing is pretty simple. Run the engine at maximum RPM and test each mag. You should see a drop of 25 RPM. If not, adjust the mags as necessary to get that. Advancing the timing will give a smaller drop, retarding it a larger one (I think)

There can be no "one-way valve" because no oil actually flows anywhere. The pump is just sensing oil pressure.  Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 

  	  Quote: 	
		  On Sep 7, 2020, at 6:00 PM, mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com) wrote:

Thank you very much, I think it was flooded and then I took the spark plugs out and blew compressed air through the plug holes. When I tried again I might have been wary of flooding it again and did not prime enough. Will try again to-morrow.

 

Is there an easy way to check ignition timing?

 

When I mentioned the "return oil line from the fuel pump" I was referring to the oil passages that I presume run through the mounting flange between the fuel pump and the cam shaft sump. One to supply oil and one to drain.

 

Will let you know what happens to-morrow

 

Thanks again

 

Mike

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: September 7, 2020 12:39 PMTo: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture

 

Mike,

 



Those are interesting results! You appear to have the older style pump and you are correct that it should be serviced with engine oil up to the level of the filler plugs.



 



If there is a spark (at about the correct time) and the primer is delivering fuel then it is hard to understand why it didn't fire to some extent. Could it have been flooded? Inverted engines are rather prone to flooding. You can try clearing the engine out by propping it backwards, but waiting for 20 minutes and trying again with the throttle about half way open is usually best.



 



I am confused by your reference to the "return oil line from the fuel pump". There should be three connections to the pump: fuel inlet, fuel return and fuel pressure. Older pumps may also have a hose nipple on the side to vent the oil system. This is usually connected to  small hose running upwards above the level of the and is open at the  top.

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Sep 6, 2020, at 7:28 PM, mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com) wrote:



 

Hello 



 



I have been away for a while but back now.



 



I drained the sump on the Cam Cover and there was about a cup of oil.



 



There is a large plug on the side of the fuel pump and I assumed that this is the level  the oil is supposed to be that is mentioned in the manual. I filled the fuel pump to this level and it took about Â¼ cup or +/- 60ml



 



When I tried to start the engine there is now nothing, not even a â€œpoofâ€ or even one firing on the primer fuel.  I tested for spark and that seems to be OK, and I can hear the Slickstart buzzing when I power it up



 



I removed all the plugs and fuel injector nozzles, I fitted a nut to one of the nozzles and rotated the prop by hand, I got one squirt of gas out of the nozzle but after that I only saw drops forming at the tip of the nozzle.



 



Is the return oil line that runs from the fuel pump to the sump equipped with a one way valve? I thought of running oil into the fuel pump and then checking if oil runs out of the sump plug cam case plug. Not sure if there is a direct connection, but there must be something that stops the cam case oil draining into the fuel pump.



 



The deposits at the rear of the exhaust manifold is darkish gray



 



Would appreciate you suggestions. 



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 24, 2020 5:08 AMTo: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



That is a surprising amount of oil. In a normally functioning, current revision engine I would expect to see perhaps a table spoon of oil. In the older style pump with a filler port on the side, perhaps a cup. Then again I have never left the pump open overnight. There is a connection from the engine oil system to the pump in that one of the factors the pump uses to set the fuel mixture is oil pressure.



 

I would suggest proceeding as follows:

 

1.            Remove the drain plug/screen under the scavenge pump. How much oil do you see there? If you see a a cup or more then I would suggest all is well. If you see almost none then it would appear that the cam case oil is somehow leaking into the injection pump. This seems unlikely though

 

2.            Put everything back together and run the engine. Asses the performance per my previous email and then remove the oil drain plug in the pump again. How much oil this time? (Use something more scientific than the hangar floor to measure it  )



Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189





 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:04 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

 



Hello Steve

 

I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere? 

 

Thanks for you help

 

Mike

 

 

 

From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 23, 2020 7:57 PMTo: lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture





 

Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?

Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189



 



 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



 

Hello Steve,



 



I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.



 



I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?



 



Have not tried to start it again but will let you know



 



Thanks



 



Mike



 



From: owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of sjbeaverSent: August 18, 2020 10:00 AMTo: Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>Subject: Re: Fuel Mixture



 



Mike.



 





There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.





 





Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 





 





First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . )  is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.





 





Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.





 





Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.





 





How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.





 





If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.





 





Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions. 





 





Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)



Steve-- Stephen BeaverTel:     614-937 4189

 





 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:





 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had





Zero hours since





 





I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.





 





Fuel pressure is good





 





I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.





 





Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing. 





 





Thanks





 





Mike





 





Mike Pienaar





mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)





Home: +1 250-999-8121





Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554





1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2





 





 







Virus-free. www.avast.com



	


	


 

<OIL-DRAIN.JPG>

mikepienaar09(at)gmail.co
Guest

Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 8:16 pm Post subject: Fuel Mixture

Thanks again for your help, got my engine started and will check oil level in fuel pump again when I have run it again.



I cannot visualise what the oil does in the fuel pump. I have model 5151.03 and the manual mentions oil in through pressure reducing valve (29)

with the level controlled by a drain hole (31) and out to the scavenge pumpÂ  (32) YouÂ  say "The pump is just sensing oil pressure"

May I ask you to explain again.Â 

If it is not too much trouble is there a convenient time for us to chat on the phone?

Thanks again and keep well

Mike

On Thu, Sep 10, 2020 at 1:19 PM sjbeaver <sjbeaver(at)gmail.com (sjbeaver(at)gmail.com)> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  The method to check ignition timing is pretty simple. Run the engine at maximum RPM and test each mag. You should see a drop of 25 RPM. If not, adjust the mags as necessary to get that. Advancing the timing will give a smaller drop, retarding it a larger one (I think)



There can be no "one-way valve" because no oil actually flows anywhere. The pump is just sensing oil pressure.Â 

 

Steve

--Â 

Stephen Beaver

Tel: Â Â Â Â 614-937 4189

 

 

 	  Quote: 	
		  On Sep 7, 2020, at 6:00 PM, mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com) wrote:



Thank you very much, I think it was flooded and then I took the spark plugs out and blew compressed air through the plug holes. When I tried again I might have been wary of flooding it again and did not prime enough. Will try again to-morrow.

Â 

Is there an easy way to check ignition timing?

Â 

When I mentionedÂ the "return oil line from the fuel pump" I was referring to the oil passages that I presume run through the mounting flange between the fuel pump and the cam shaft sump. One to supply oil and one to drain.

Â 

Will let you know what happens to-morrow

Â 

Thanks again

Â 

Mike

Â 

From:Â owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)Â <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)>Â On Behalf OfÂ sjbeaver

Sent:Â September 7, 2020 12:39 PM

To:Â lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject:Â Re: Lom-List: Fuel Mixture

Â 

Mike,

Â 



Those are interesting results! You appear to have the older style pump and you are correct that it should be serviced with engine oil up to the level of the filler plugs.



Â 



If there is a spark (at about the correct time) and the primer is delivering fuel then it is hard to understand why it didn't fire to some extent. Could it have been flooded? Inverted engines are rather prone to flooding. You can try clearing the engine out by propping it backwards, but waiting for 20 minutes and trying again with the throttle about half way open is usually best.



Â 



I am confused by your reference to the "return oil line from the fuel pump". There should be three connections to the pump: fuel inlet, fuel return and fuel pressure. Older pumps may also have a hose nipple on the side to vent the oil system. This is usually connected to Â small hose running upwards above the level of the and is open at the Â top.



Steve

--Â 

Stephen Beaver

Tel: Â Â Â Â 614-937 4189



Â 



Â 





 	  Quote: 	
		  On Sep 6, 2020, at 7:28 PM,Â mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)Â wrote:



Â 

HelloÂ 



Â 



I have been away for a while but back now.



Â 



I drained the sump on the Cam Cover and there was about a cup of oil.



Â 



There is a large plug on the side of the fuel pump and I assumed that this is the levelÂ  the oil is supposed to be that is mentioned in the manual. I filled the fuel pump to this level and it took about Â¼ cup or +/- 60ml



Â 



When I tried to start the engine there is now nothing, not even a â€œpoofâ€ or even one firing on the primer fuel.Â  I tested for spark and that seems to be OK, and I can hear the Slickstart buzzing when I power it up



Â 



I removed all the plugs and fuel injector nozzles, I fitted a nut to one of the nozzles and rotated the prop by hand, I got one squirt of gas out of the nozzle but after that I only saw drops forming at the tip of the nozzle.



Â 



Is the return oil line that runs from the fuel pump to the sump equipped with a one way valve? I thought of running oil into the fuel pump and then checking if oil runs out of the sump plug cam case plug. Not sure if there is a direct connection, but there must be something that stops the cam case oil draining into the fuel pump.



Â 



The deposits at the rear of the exhaust manifold is darkish gray



Â 



Would appreciate you suggestions.Â 



Â 



Thanks



Â 



Mike



Â 



From:Â owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)Â <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)>Â On Behalf OfÂ sjbeaver

Sent:Â August 24, 2020 5:08 AM

To:Â lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject:Â Re: Fuel Mixture



Â 



That is a surprising amount of oil. In a normally functioning, current revision engine I would expect to see perhaps a table spoon of oil. In the older style pump with a filler port on the side, perhaps a cup. Then again I have never left the pump open overnight. There is a connection from the engine oil system to the pump in that one of the factors the pump uses to set the fuel mixture is oil pressure.



Â 

I would suggest proceeding as follows:

Â 

1.Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Remove the drain plug/screen under the scavenge pump. How much oil do you see there? If you see a a cup or more then I would suggest all is well. If you see almost none then it would appear that the cam case oil is somehow leaking into the injection pump. This seems unlikely though

Â 

2.Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Put everything back together and run the engine. Asses the performance per my previous email and then remove the oil drain plug in the pump again. How much oil this time? (Use something more scientific than the hangar floor to measure it  )

Steve

--Â 

Stephen Beaver

Tel: Â Â Â Â 614-937 4189





Â 







 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 24, 2020, at 12:04 AM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:

Â 



Hello Steve

Â 

I also thought it was impossible, I drained it from a small plug at the bottom of the fuel pump, the plug only needs a 12mm wrench so is small. Working forward from the rear of the pump there is a small slotted screw and then the plug. These are the only fittings on the bottom of the fuel pump. I can see a large nut on the camshaft cover that I assumed to be the drain under the scavenge pump, I did not open that. Could this oil have siphoned from somewhere?Â 

Â 

Thanks for you help

Â 

Mike

Â 

Â 

Â 

From:Â owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)Â <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)>Â On Behalf OfÂ sjbeaver

Sent:Â August 23, 2020 7:57 PM

To:Â lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)

Subject:Â Re: Fuel Mixture





Â 

Three pints seems impossible. Did you drain that from the pump, or from the screen at the rear of the camshaft housing?



Steve

--Â 

Stephen Beaver

Tel: Â Â Â Â 614-937 4189



Â 



Â 





 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:33 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:



Â 

Hello Steve,



Â 



I drained the oil from the fuel pump. I removed the plug and oil came out very slowly so I left it overnight. Fortunately I put a small container under the drain hole as this morning I found that about 3 pints had drained out.



Â 



I cannot imagine where there is room for that amount of oil. Could it be that my scavenge pump is not doing itâ€™s job?



Â 



Have not tried to start it again but will let you know



Â 



Thanks



Â 



Mike



Â 



From:Â owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)Â <owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-lom-list-server(at)matronics.com)>Â On Behalf OfÂ sjbeaver

Sent:Â August 18, 2020 10:00 AM

To:Â Lom-List Digest Server <lom-list(at)matronics.com (lom-list(at)matronics.com)>

Subject:Â Re: Fuel Mixture



Â 



Mike.



Â 





There are no o-rings in the fuel inject system to be concerned about and I would suggest that you do not disassemble it. It is a complex and very precise device! - What you might do, however, is remove the drain plug on the underside of the unit and allow any accumulated oil to drain out. If sitting for a long time excess oil can accumulate in the pump and interfere with the mixture.





Â 





Let me run through some of the other items you might check. I am not implying that there is any part of the manual you have not digested. Just making sure I don't omit anything 





Â 





First and foremost (If I had a $ for every time I explain this . . . ) Â is the automatic mixture system. People used to operating American engines seem to think that the engine should always be operated at the most rich setting available. That is just not the case with the LOM and doing so so will have serval rather bad consequences.





Â 





Look closely at the mixture control arm that extends from the side of the fuel injection pump. There is a slot in the arm, inside of which is a small pointer. Also on the side of the pump is a shiny metal plate shaped like a pizza slice on which are marked the mixture settings. Something like +3, +2, +1, N, -1, -2 with the -2 being nearest the top. Adjust your mixture control mechanism so that the "normal" (all phases of operation below 10,000') corresponds to the pointer being aligned with the 'N' mark. - Actually 'N' inside a circle. Now you know the mixture is set exactly as it should be. Again - do not operate the engine at the full rich setting. Doing so will disable the automatic mixture system, foul the plugs, wash lubricant from the cylinder walls and other bad things.





Â 





Next, start the engine and let it warm up for an extended period. When the oil temp is up in the 100F area, carefully and with the appropriate precautions run the engine at full power (super charger engaged) Switch from both to magneto 1. What RPM drop do you see? Go back to both, then magneto 2. Again, what RPM drop do you see? I would expect a drop in the 25-35 RPM area. Anything other than that suggests your ignition timing is a little out. It is a simple matter to loosen the magneto clamps and rotate the mags a little until the 25-35 RPM drop is observed. Why not just time the mags with a buzz box in the traditional manner? For two reasons: 1) This is how the manual says to do it and 2) these magnetos have automatic advance and retard systems so static timing means almost nothing.





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How that the mixture and the ignition timing are up to snuff, you can do some testing. Operate the engine for as long as is reasonable at a cruise sort of power setting. Say 25" of manifold pressure. (It doesn't matter if the super charger is engaged or not). Now shut down and observe the exhaust pipes. Are they back and sooty, a very light gray (almost white) or a nice mid gray, the color of a slate roof? - We want the slate color.





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If in doubt, remove the spark plugs and see what they look like.





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Another useful trick (if you have straight pipes) is to run the engine in the dark and look into the exhaust pipes of the running engine. At medium power settings look for a nice blue flame tinged with yellow to indicate the ideal running conditions.Â 





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Finally, since I see you are in BC, you could contact Pavol Novak who now resides at Qualcom Beach on Victoria Island. He is a Czech LOM factory trained technician and expert on the engines (and Zlin airframes)





Steve

--Â 

Stephen Beaver

Tel: Â Â Â Â 614-937 4189

Â 







 	  Quote: 	
		  On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:14 PM, <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> <mike(at)vision499.com (mike(at)vision499.com)> wrote:





Â 



I have the 4 cylinder engine with supercharger, fuel injection and automatic mixture control. The motor was factory reconditioned in 2003 and has had





Zero hours since





Â 





I started the motor recently and there are loud â€œpopsâ€ out of the exhaust. An AME on the field thought that it was running lean.





Â 





Fuel pressure is good





Â 





I see that I can adjust the mixture at the fuel pump but want to ask if there is something else I should check for first.





Â 





Has anybody opened the fuel pump, are there any seals that would have deteriorated. From the drawing I cannot see if there are any seals that may need replacing.Â 





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Thanks





Â 





Mike





Â 





Mike Pienaar





mike(at)vision499.com (ike(at)vision499.com)





Home: +1 250-999-8121





Mike cell: +1 250-885-0554





1-1100 Tulip Ave, Victoria, BC, V8Z 0A2





Â 





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Virus-free.Â www.avast.com



	


	


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