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Kelvin Weston
Joined: 14 Apr 2010 Posts: 90 Location: Hampshire, UK
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 2:12 am Post subject: Door and Windscreen Glass |
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Hi All
Just glued the Door glass, went easier than expected.
I have seen on this forum that some have put a thin layer of weave over the glued joint on the outside to prevent paint cracking.
How many have done this?
How many have seen this cracking in the paintwork after long service?
Over the years I have looked at many Europas but I have never noticed this cracking in the paintwork.
I intend to fill over the joint but does anyone recommend the extra protection of a thin strip of fibreglass?
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_________________ Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
kelv@kdweston.co.uk |
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davidjoyce(at)doctors.org Guest
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 2:28 am Post subject: Door and Windscreen Glass |
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Kelv, Not worth it IMHO. Mine has remained uncracked for 20 years. David Joyce GXSDJ
On 2020-11-17 10:12, Kelvin Weston wrote: Quote: | --> Europa-List message posted by: "Kelvin Weston" <kelv(at)kdweston.biz (kelv(at)kdweston.biz)>Hi AllJust glued the Door glass, went easier than expected.I have seen on this forum that some have put a thin layer of weave over the glued joint on the outside to prevent paint cracking.How many have done this?How many have seen this cracking in the paintwork after long service?Over the years I have looked at many Europas but I have never noticed this cracking in the paintwork.I intend to fill over the joint but does anyone recommend the extra protection of a thin strip of fibreglass?--------RegardsKelv WestonKit 497kelv(at)kdweston.biz (kelv(at)kdweston.biz)Read this topic online here:http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopicEuropa-List" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.matrobsp;--> p;--> http://========================
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Duncan McFadyean
Joined: 18 Jan 2011 Posts: 219
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 2:41 am Post subject: Door and Windscreen Glass |
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The clear coat that I have (which is the same stuff as the recommended white paint but without pigmentation) has cracked in a few places over the 'glass' and in a couple of other high-flex areas over composite.
Was advised at the time not to plasticise the clear coat, but wish I had. The 'cracks' over the glass are of no consequence and don't bother me.
Duncan McF.
Quote: | On 17 November 2020 at 10:12 Kelvin Weston <kelv(at)kdweston.biz> wrote:
Hi All
Just glued the Door glass, went easier than expected.
I have seen on this forum that some have put a thin layer of weave over the glued joint on the outside to prevent paint cracking.
How many have done this?
How many have seen this cracking in the paintwork after long service?
Over the years I have looked at many Europas but I have never noticed this cracking in the paintwork.
I intend to fill over the joint but does anyone recommend the extra protection of a thin strip of fibreglass?
--------
Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
kelv(at)kdweston.biz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499402#499402
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budyerly@msn.com
Joined: 05 Oct 2019 Posts: 286 Location: Florida USA
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 12:23 pm Post subject: Re: Door and Windscreen Glass |
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Kelvin,
It is nice to hear that you installed your glass trouble free. Trim, fit, practice the install and properly block it to get an even bond and it lays fairly nice. A slight gap that is filled with Redux between the glass and skin rarely will leave a crack, but there will be a hump or a lot of blending for a truly fine show finish. If you leave a trough or sharp ridge, the filler may crack due to material expansion/change.
The slight miss match in height is due to the newer slightly thicker glass we have now. I normally use expand cell and patience. The windscreen and doors rarely crack around the joint rim when filled up on to the glass then covered with good 2 part urethane. If the glass has no filler sometimes there is a bit of a transition hump or ridge.
For only those who want a very smooth job and or have used the optional 1/4 inch windscreen: The use of 2 oz glass over the initial fill will allow a smoother finish and less of a chance of cracking of the extra filler. This same technique can be used to HELP prevent cracking at the spar and wing fillet walkway (or butt seat area) of the trigear. In the area of the leading edge between the root rib and first rib forward of the spar of the XS flexes under "butt" pressure on trigear ingress gymnastics. Glass over the filler can help. I've used carbon fiber layers and standard Rutan 7725 Bid to try to prevent this but the area near the spar will flex and a filler crack can happen. Document it to appease inspectors.
Why worry about the cracks: In selling a used aircraft, the new owner and more importantly the new inspector/repairman, will question the crack and then want to grind out, inspect and fix any cracks, thereby decreasing your resale value.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
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Kelvin Weston
Joined: 14 Apr 2010 Posts: 90 Location: Hampshire, UK
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 2:34 pm Post subject: Re: Door and Windscreen Glass |
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Thanks all for the good advice and experiences.
I trimmed for a nice gap all around and had several dry-runs before applying the glue. Also hot glued some spacers onto the door to aid accurate location of the glass. Worked out ok.
Bud
I removed all the gel-coat from the door flange and also rounded the outside edge of the glass. I used a rounded lolly stick to remove the excess redux and formed a nice fillet between the outside edge of the door and the glass.
The height difference between the door and glass is quite small, about 0.5mm.
Looking at it with a straight edge across the from the door to glass, I am hoping the filler when applied across the join and sanded will just transition up onto the rounded edge of the glass.
Fingers crossed.
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_________________ Regards
Kelv Weston
Kit 497
kelv@kdweston.co.uk |
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budyerly@msn.com
Joined: 05 Oct 2019 Posts: 286 Location: Florida USA
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Posted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 3:18 pm Post subject: Re: Door and Windscreen Glass |
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Way to go.
As far as cosmetics of the slight difference in height, the choice is yours.
Use good filler and feather it out is all you can do. Adding glass is just more work for little payback except it really looks smooth.
Thin Bid Glass is only really needed for cracking if the filler is thick, say 1/8 inch or the skin is flexing such as that pesky lower rudder hinge, the inner aileron hinge sometimes and the walkway area just forward of the spar. Inspectors go batty when seeing cracks around hinges that are glued in and painted or spars. Can't blame them as it bothers me also.
I know I should have put some glass over the rivets of my classic wing and my cowl as I can see the rivets with changing temperatures. The aileron hinge in cold weather when pegged at the stop on a roll will crack my paint so I know the skin is flexing. Abuse is never good.
Bud
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