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email(at)jaredyates.com
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 Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2021 1:41 am Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on?
Thanks!
Jared
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2021 9:55 am Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
| Quote: | If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on?
|
Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
your hands on.
In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
will never see service under duress. Alternator system
failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
The system has an EXPECTED service
life of thousands of hours but needed only
minutes over it's total existence in your
project. It is lightly used but often tested.
Likelihood that it would become unavailable
when needed is on the same order of probability
of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
All that extra cash will buy you a couple
trips worth of fuel which is a positive
return on investment.
Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
function of a 2-10 switch.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2021 10:43 am Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
| Quote: | If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
|
use the cheaper one. ancillary features over and
above rudimentary voltage regulation are
superfluous.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
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email(at)jaredyates.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2021 5:30 pm Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example?
On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
| Quote: | If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on?
|
 Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
 your hands on.
 In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
 will never see service under duress. Alternator system
 failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
 It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
 and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
 The system has an EXPECTED service
 life of thousands of hours but needed only
 minutes over it's total existence in your
 project. It is lightly used but often tested.
 Likelihood that it would become unavailable
 when needed is on the same order of probability
 of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
 A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
 system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
 a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
 All that extra cash will buy you a couple
 trips worth of fuel which is a positive
 return on investment.
Â
 Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
 function of a 2-10 switch.
 Bob . . .
 Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
 survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
 out of that stuff?"
|
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Ceengland
Joined: 11 Oct 2020
Posts: 391
Location: MS
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| Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2021 5:41 pm Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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|
Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than your B lead size.
Charlie
On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
| Quote: | Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example?
On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
| Quote: | If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on?
|
 Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
 your hands on.
 In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
 will never see service under duress. Alternator system
 failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
 It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
 and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
 The system has an EXPECTED service
 life of thousands of hours but needed only
 minutes over it's total existence in your
 project. It is lightly used but often tested.
 Likelihood that it would become unavailable
 when needed is on the same order of probability
 of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
 A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
 system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
 a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
 All that extra cash will buy you a couple
 trips worth of fuel which is a positive
 return on investment.
Â
 Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
 function of a 2-10 switch.
 Bob . . .
 Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
 survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
 out of that stuff?"
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N38CW
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 57
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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| Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 1:40 am Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse link?
Thank you,
Bill.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than your B lead size.
Charlie
On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
| Quote: |
Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example?
On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
| Quote: |
At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
| Quote: |
If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on? |
Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
your hands on.
In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
will never see service under duress. Alternator system
failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
The system has an EXPECTED service
life of thousands of hours but needed only
minutes over it's total existence in your
project. It is lightly used but often tested.
Likelihood that it would become unavailable
when needed is on the same order of probability
of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
All that extra cash will buy you a couple
trips worth of fuel which is a positive
return on investment.
Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
function of a 2-10 switch.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
|
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This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
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_________________
Bill Settle
RV-8 Fuselage |
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Ceengland
Joined: 11 Oct 2020
Posts: 391
Location: MS
|
| Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 5:32 am Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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|
The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wire installation will melt long before the wire melts.
Get BlueMail for Android
On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net (billsettle(at)bellsouth.net)> wrote: | Quote: |
What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse link?
Thank you,
Bill.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than your B lead size.
Charlie
On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
| Quote: |
Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example?
On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
| Quote: |
At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
| Quote: |
If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on?
|
Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
your hands on.
In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
will never see service under duress. Alternator system
failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
The system has an EXPECTED service
life of thousands of hours but needed only
minutes over it's total existence in your
project. It is lightly used but often tested.
Likelihood that it would become unavailable
when needed is on the same order of probability
of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
All that extra cash will buy you a couple
trips worth of fuel which is a positive
return on investment.
Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
function of a 2-10 switch.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
|
|
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
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| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
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_________________
Charlie |
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johnbright
Joined: 14 Dec 2011
Posts: 166
Location: Newport News, VA
|
| Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 7:48 am Post subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
|
|
| email(at)jaredyates.com wrote: | | Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example? |
AFAIK the smallest FLW available in small quantities is 20 awg. I infer this is why Bob Nuckolls changed the FLW from main bus to alternator switch to 20 awg on newer Z dwgs in 2020 whereas older Z dwgs showed 22 awg hookup wire covered with fiberglass tubing to contain the fire. The storebought FLW is a convenience because you don't have to make your own with the fiberglass sheath.
Pico brand FLW is commonly available on Amazon and at Summit Racing.
FLW installed is nominally 6" long.
BTW when the FLW comes with a rubber flag molded on, that is simply a label.
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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_________________
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
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email(at)jaredyates.com
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 7:55 am Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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Thank you Charlie! There is also a point depicted on Z101 labeled as the "Fat wire tie point" which is where the aux bus, battery bus, engine bus, standby alternator B line, and a short run from the battery all come together. Has anyone found an elegant piece of hardware to accomplish that point?
On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 8:38 AM Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wire installation will melt long before the wire melts.
Get BlueMail for Android
On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net (billsettle(at)bellsouth.net)> wrote: | Quote: |
What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse link?
Â
Thank you,
Bill.
Â
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
Â
Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than your B lead size.
Charlie
On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
| Quote: |
Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example?
Â
On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
| Quote: |
At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
| Quote: |
If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on?
|
 Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
 your hands on.
 In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
 will never see service under duress. Alternator system
 failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
 It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
 and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
 The system has an EXPECTED service
 life of thousands of hours but needed only
 minutes over it's total existence in your
 project. It is lightly used but often tested.
 Likelihood that it would become unavailable
 when needed is on the same order of probability
 of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
 A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
 system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
 a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
 All that extra cash will buy you a couple
 trips worth of fuel which is a positive
 return on investment.
Â
 Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
 function of a 2-10 switch.
 Bob . . .
 Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
 survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
 out of that stuff?"
|
|
Â
Â
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
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Ceengland
Joined: 11 Oct 2020
Posts: 391
Location: MS
|
| Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 9:29 am Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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|
The terminal on the contactor itself can work pretty well, if the area around it allows a 'star' of ring terminals. If you use the battery bus as shown, you could divide the stack between the contactor terminal and the battery bus terminal, as long as you upsize the wire between the contactor terminal & the bus to handle the total of the loads fed off the bus terminal. If you include the battery bus and have room to upsize it, you could use the extra fuse positions to feed the other 'destinations' that are shown attached to the tie point. I'm sure there are dedicated tie point devices out there, but I've never needed to search for them.Â
Charlie
On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 9:58 AM Jared Yates <email(at)jaredyates.com (email(at)jaredyates.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thank you Charlie! There is also a point depicted on Z101 labeled as the "Fat wire tie point" which is where the aux bus, battery bus, engine bus, standby alternator B line, and a short run from the battery all come together. Has anyone found an elegant piece of hardware to accomplish that point?
On Wed, Dec 22, 2021 at 8:38 AM Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com (ceengland7(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wire installation will melt long before the wire melts.
Get BlueMail for Android
On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net (billsettle(at)bellsouth.net)> wrote: | Quote: |
What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse link?
Â
Thank you,
Bill.
Â
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
Â
Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than your B lead size.
Charlie
On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
| Quote: |
Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example?
Â
On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
| Quote: |
At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote:
| Quote: |
If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on?
|
 Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
 your hands on.
 In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
 will never see service under duress. Alternator system
 failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
 It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
 and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
 The system has an EXPECTED service
 life of thousands of hours but needed only
 minutes over it's total existence in your
 project. It is lightly used but often tested.
 Likelihood that it would become unavailable
 when needed is on the same order of probability
 of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
 A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
 system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
 a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
 All that extra cash will buy you a couple
 trips worth of fuel which is a positive
 return on investment.
Â
 Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
 function of a 2-10 switch.
 Bob . . .
 Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
 survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
 out of that stuff?"
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Â
Â
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N38CW
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 57
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
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| Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 2:09 pm Post subject: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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Thank you, Sir!
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com> On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2021 8:31 AM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
The link insulation is designed to contain the melting wire; regular wire installation will melt long before the wire melts.
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On Dec 22, 2021, at 3:44 AM, Bill Settle <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net (billsettle(at)bellsouth.net)> wrote: | Quote: |
What physically is the difference between a 12 ga wire and a 12 ga fuse link?
Thank you,
Bill.
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com) <owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com)> On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 8:46 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators
Sorry if I haven't followed this thread closely enough, but if you're talking about protecting the alternator B-lead, you can get fusible link wire from Amazon, as well as (probably) auto parts stores.
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=fusible+link+wire&crid=1PLYTS1HT90M0&sprefix=fusible+link+wire%2Caps%2C166&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Ignore the 1st couple of bizarre hits, and scroll down for the wire products. Just use a link gauge 4 numbers (bigger number) smaller than your B lead size.
Charlie
On 12/21/2021 7:27 PM, Jared Yates wrote:
| Quote: |
Thank you Bob, I've been hearing about using an off-the-shelf fuse link product instead of the ones made from a short piece of wire. What is the latest plan in that regard, and if using a produced product, do you have a link to an example?
On Sun, Dec 19, 2021 at 1:01 PM Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
| Quote: |
At 03:39 AM 12/19/2021, you wrote: | Quote: |
If a person was going to use a B&C regulator for the standby alternator (SD-20, now BC410-H) instead of the Ford regulator, would it be better to use the LR3D or the SB1B?Â
Also, relating the old switch terminology to Z101, are the master/alt and aux bus/aux alt switches what we would have called the 2-10, on-on-on? |
Suggest you use the cheapest one you can put
your hands on.
In the vast majority of installations, the s/b regulator
will never see service under duress. Alternator system
failures are rare. The s/b system is just that: 'stand by'.
It should be preflight tested every flight cycle
and then sit dormant the rest of the time.
The system has an EXPECTED service
life of thousands of hours but needed only
minutes over it's total existence in your
project. It is lightly used but often tested.
Likelihood that it would become unavailable
when needed is on the same order of probability
of being brought down by a failure of prop bolts.
A full-featured alternator controller in the s/b
system secures no benefit. That's why z101 suggests
a $15, Smiley Jack's Auto Parts regulator.
All that extra cash will buy you a couple
trips worth of fuel which is a positive
return on investment.
Yes, that symbol is unique to the on-on-on
function of a 2-10 switch.
Bob . . .
Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"
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Bill Settle
RV-8 Fuselage |
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johnbright
Joined: 14 Dec 2011
Posts: 166
Location: Newport News, VA
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| Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 3:48 pm Post subject: Re: Z101 with two B&C Regulators |
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| email(at)jaredyates.com wrote: | | ... depicted on Z101 labeled as the "Fat wire tie point" which is where the aux bus, battery bus, engine bus, standby alternator B line, and a short run from the battery all come together. Has anyone found an elegant piece of hardware to accomplish that point? |
You could crimp or solder multiple wires into a single terminal in cases where studs are not long enough to accommodate your stack of terminals.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=496373#496373
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_________________
John Bright, RV-6A, at FWF, O-360
Z-101 single batt dual alt SDS EM-5-F.
john_s_bright@yahoo.com, Newport News, Va
N1921R links |
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