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replacing acrylic window

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freddythek10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2022 5:51 pm Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Gents, 



Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.



Using a heat gun, I have successfully removed the shards with heat sufficient to soften the acrylic and break its bond with the Redux but without making the slightest impression in the Redux itself…it remains as a smooth film which is bonded to the recess in the door/window frame.



I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.



Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?



thanks,



Fred

A-194

peterz(at)zutrasoft.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2022 6:00 pm Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Careful use of a Dremel sanding drum?



Good luck!

PeteZ



 	  Quote: 	
		   On Aug 5, 2022, at 9:57 PM, Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 

 

 

 Gents, 

 

 Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.

 

 Using a heat gun, I have successfully removed the shards with heat sufficient to soften the acrylic and break its bond with the Redux but without making the slightest impression in the Redux itself…it remains as a smooth film which is bonded to the recess in the door/window frame.

 

 I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.

 

 Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?

 

 thanks,

 

 Fred

 A-194

freddythek10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2022 6:57 pm Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Pete…is this an idea…?…or a recommenation based on experience?



I’d be concerned about evenness…If grinding it away is the answer, I would think sandpaper would offer a more even result…



I’m hoping there’s another type of procedure…I always thought Redux softened with heat, but I don’t want to distort the window frame…



F>



 	  Quote: 	
		   On Aug 5, 2022, at 7:00 PM, Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> wrote:

 

 

 

 Careful use of a Dremel sanding drum?

 

 Good luck!

 PeteZ

 

> On Aug 5, 2022, at 9:57 PM, Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com> wrote:


	




 	  Quote: 	
		  > I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.

> 

> Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?

> 

> thanks,

> 

> Fred

> A-194

kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2022 8:43 pm Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Fred,



I would suggest a flap disc on an angle grinder. The coarseness of the flap disc subject to test but I’d try medium to start. 



Before I fitted my windows, I used this method to remove existing gelcoat in order to get maximum depth rebate for the window.  I approached the job thinking it would take several hours but much to my surprise it was done in no time.  I found the flap disc easy to control. 



Good luck mate



Kingsley



Sent from my iPhone



 	  Quote: 	
		   On 6 Aug 2022, at 11:56 am, Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 

 

 

 Gents, 

 

 Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.

 

 Using a heat gun, I have successfully removed the shards with heat sufficient to soften the acrylic and break its bond with the Redux but without making the slightest impression in the Redux itself…it remains as a smooth film which is bonded to the recess in the door/window frame.

 

 I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.

 

 Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?

 

 thanks,

 

 Fred

 A-194

RSheridan(at)specialist-a
Guest

Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2022 11:09 pm Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Hi Fred,

I would try this dremel attachment to regulate depth.

Rotary Multi Tool Cutting Guide with Drills Router Attachment Kit HSS Router Drill Bit Set https://amzn.eu/d/8s68s8r

Best wishes,

Roger

 	  Quote: 	
		   On 6 Aug 2022, at 05:47, Kingsley Hurst <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au> wrote:

 CAUTION: This email originated from outside your organization. Exercise caution when opening attachments or on clicking links from unknown senders.

 Fred,

 I would suggest a flap disc on an angle grinder. The coarseness of the flap disc subject to test but I’d try medium to start.

 Before I fitted my windows, I used this method to remove existing gelcoat in order to get maximum depth rebate for the window.  I approached the job thinking it would take several hours but much to my surprise it was done in no time.  I found the flap disc easy to control.

 Good luck mate

 Kingsley

 Sent from my iPhone

> On 6 Aug 2022, at 11:56 am, Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com> wrote:

>

> 

>

> Gents,

>

> Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.

>

> Using a heat gun, I have successfully removed the shards with heat sufficient to soften the acrylic and break its bond with the Redux but without making the slightest impression in the Redux itself…it remains as a smooth film which is bonded to the recess in the door/window frame.

>

> I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.

>

> Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?

>

> thanks,

>

> Fred

> A-194

Roger Sheridan

Line Pilot

+44 (0) 1737 822 885

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Area-51

Joined: 03 May 2021
Posts: 396

Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2022 12:46 am Post subject: Re: replacing acrylic window

Hi Fred, from experience i would invest in a mini belt sander and practice on some timber until you get the hang of it using one of your hand positions to maintain position and pressure and the other to move the tool in a linear direction (invest in a mid range unit, the bearings are better quality). Depending on how much material you are wanting to remove the belts are available from 80grit down to 800grit... 80grit will tear through panel steel and welds without batting an eyelid... for softer materials like composites 240g to 400g belts will probably be sufficient; if you want a real smooth surface with bonding strength you could finish to 800g... start with the lower grit numbers and really get a good handle on technique; you won't need very much pressure and be aware the belt can sometimes pull into the surface if your attention is distracted, regulate your speed, start slow and as you get more confident you can open up the trigger a bit more. Old surfboard would be good to practice on... And make sure to use a good 3M cartridge respirator.



The other option i might consider is a mini hand held router with a some kind of guide set up on the door frame; this would provide an even depth along the glass recess and you would have a lot more control over cutting depth... not quite sure what would provide a sufficient guide; you'd want at least a 1/4" height guide off the door surface i think; maybe MDF or architect's plywood.

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peterz(at)zutrasoft.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2022 4:22 am Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Indeed you are correct….extreme care would be required.  I have not used it on the door frame in your context, but have in others. Since the redux is softer and a different color, and the Dremel speed is adjustable, and using the dremel flex extension, with a steady hand i find it a great tool for carefully sculpting composite.



Lots of proviso’s



-PeteZ 



 	  Quote: 	
		   On Aug 5, 2022, at 11:01 PM, freddythek10(at)gmail.com wrote:

 

 

 

 

 Pete…is this an idea…?…or a recommenation based on experience?

 

 I’d be concerned about evenness…If grinding it away is the answer, I would think sandpaper would offer a more even result…

 

 I’m hoping there’s another type of procedure…I always thought Redux softened with heat, but I don’t want to distort the window frame…

 

 F>

 

> On Aug 5, 2022, at 7:00 PM, Pete <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com> wrote:

> 

> 

> 

> Careful use of a Dremel sanding drum?

> 

> Good luck!

> PeteZ

> 

>>> On Aug 5, 2022, at 9:57 PM, Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com> wrote:

> 

> 

>>> I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.

>> 

>> Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?

>> 

>> thanks,

>> 

>> Fred

>> A-194

budyerly@msn.com

Joined: 05 Oct 2019
Posts: 288
Location: Florida USA

Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2022 6:31 am Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Hi Fred,

Good answers all, but I find for that Redux thin film and sometimes thicker film removal does not require a power tool at all times.  I do the following:

I have a one inch and two inch sanding disk attachments for a drill with stick on Velcro pads or roll lock.  I have roll locks by 3M and other providers for 1, 2, and 3 inch sanders.  I think I spent 20 bucks and they are great for those nasty little corners.  I no longer put the small disks doing fine work on my 90 degree air tool as it cuts too fast for delicate/precision work.  I simply use 80 grit on the wheel to do the corners nicely.  A piece of .016 metal in the slot helps keeping the edges of the roll lock from edge cutting deeply. I will grind off the disk edge to prevent it from digging in and protect the edge of the flange with a bit of thin metal.  A sanding drum is hard to control the depth so I prefer a flap wheel on slow speed on my multitool.  The flap wheel is about 10mm /  3/8" so the width is about right and it doesn't grind into the corners as bad or cut too fast causing a rippled surface.



Otherwise, assorted stick on grits of sandpaper (normally I use 60, 80, 120 grits) attached to a FLAT STICK OR PIECE OF WOOD as a sanding block works quick and easy.  I initially use the 60 to 80 grit to break the top and finish with the 120 as I get to the gelcoat.  I normally am half way around a windscreen before one of the guys got the power tool ready.  The nice thing about a stick or block is I can set the paper on just shy of the edge of the block and the wood rides in the slot without cutting into the finished gelcoat area of the recess.  The corners can be a bear so a rotary disk on a slow 800 rpm drill and a deft hand works for me.  My son was very good with the oscillating Fein tool.  I never liked it as much as hand sanding the straight areas, and I have a tool for just about everything.  Dremel also made a good linear oscillating sander with many heads and of course genuine Dremel sanding pads, but it is no longer available.  Shame, as it was a very nice tool for detail work.



There is no fast way to do it.  High Speed Power tools can dig in and give an uneven surface but with practice and a deft hand, some metal guards to protect areas you don't want damaged by the edge of the tool, will work.  But from my experience, Redux with flox in it is quite sandable by hand.  Your fingers tell you how much force your putting on the paper and your eye will not allow you to dig in.  You will get a nice even cleaned and prepped surface.



Just my thoughts,

Bud Yerly



--

robzeelenberg1(at)gmail.c
Guest

Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2022 6:47 am Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Gents , Probebly not the right medium for this , but still ... hereby for sale my Europa Classic ,in The  Neteherlands  monowheel  # 157 PH-POP ,with trailer first flight 1999 , 675 hrs Rotax 912 ,80hp , Arplast PV50  any reasonable  offer  around Euro 15.000 

with kind regards  Rob .

Op za 6 aug. 2022 03:53 schreef Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com (freddythek10(at)gmail.com)>:



 	  Quote: 	
		  --> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com (freddythek10(at)gmail.com)>

 

 Gents, 

 

 Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.

 

 Using a heat gun, I have successfully removed the shards with heat sufficient to soften the acrylic and break its bond with the Redux but without making the slightest impression in the Redux itself…it remains as a smooth film which is bonded to the recess in the door/window frame.

 

 I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of the frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.

 

 Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?

 

 thanks,

 

 Fred

 A-194

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freddythek10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2022 12:19 pm Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Gents…many thanks to all respondents for all, very helpful, suggestions…



Onward,



Fred



 	  Quote: 	
		   On Aug 5, 2022, at 6:51 PM, Fred Klein <freddythek10(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 

 

 

 Gents, 

 

 Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.

erichdtrombley(at)juno.co
Guest

Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2022 9:58 am Post subject: replacing acrylic window

Hi Fred,



You might also try a soldering iron with an Exacto knife attachment.  I have successfully used this tool on other tasks and suspect it would work rather well on the redux.  I would use a chisel point blade and plunge cut from the top down to the window rebate.  Then come in from the side to heat and lift off the redux working your way around the window.  The localized heat from the iron should soften the redux without distorting the fiberglass window frame.  



Good luck with the task at hand,

Erich

N28ET Classic Mono 914

Fred Klein

Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 503

Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2022 7:46 pm Post subject: replacing acrylic window

The task of removing the shards of plexiglas was accomplished as follows:



- With the door frame still hinged to the fuselage, I closed the latch w/ the door frame in the closed and locked position…I did this to minimize the potential for the door frame to distort when heat was applied.



- Working from the exterior, I used a heat gun to apply heat directly to the acrylic along its edge in the area of a crack which extended to the edge of the window.



- In a remarkably short time, the acrylic softened enough to deform and break the bond between it and the bed of Redux in the recess, allowing me to remove a shard and open a gap around the window’s perimeter.



- The gap allowed me to grasp the edge of the acrylic with pliers while applying heat sufficient to radically deform the acrylic without even a hint of distortion to  the door frame or a softening of the now exposed bed of Redux.



- I also used a thin SS spatula to pry while applying heat to the acrylic…the acrylic popped out of the recess in segments.



- The heat sometimes caused the paint to bubble, but the bubbling was confined to the half inch of paint which was on the acrylic rather than upon the fiberglass door frame.



I will await arrival of the new window from LP Aero before dealing with the existing bed of Redux.



 	  Quote: 	
		   On Aug 7, 2022, at 10:57 AM, Erich Trombley <erichdtrombley(at)juno.com> wrote:

 

 

 

 Hi Fred,

 

 You might also try a soldering iron with an Exacto knife attachment.  I have successfully used this tool on other tasks and suspect it would work rather well on the redux.  I would use a chisel point blade and plunge cut from the top down to the window rebate.  Then come in from the side to heat and lift off the redux working your way around the window.  The localized heat from the iron should soften the redux without distorting the fiberglass window frame.  

 

 Good luck with the task at hand,

 Erich

 N28ET Classic Mono 914

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