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jcohen@post.com
Joined: 10 Mar 2022
Posts: 17
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 Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2023 10:59 am Post subject: Ground Block Mounting questions |
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I am building an RV7 and have the BandC GB48 48 tab ground block. It appears to have only one pass thru bolt for mounting (pic attached). My questions are:
1. Do people recommend soldering the entire piece ( 0.04” flat brass stock ) to the stainless steel firewall for mounting and good conductivity, in addition to the pass thru bolt provided? If so, just regular solder with flux? And a whopping big iron needed for the heat sink issues?
2. Any reason not to just rivet the brass plate to the firewall? Like dissimilar metal issues between copper and stainless steel?
3. I assume I can flip the bolt direction of the attached picture, to have the pass through bolt head on the interior cockpit side with the tabs, and the protruding stud on the engine side of the firewall, near the battery ground post, so a short ground cable can run from the battery to this ground block stud. But in searching for application pics, I don’t see this. I see most people just ground the battery negative post to a nearby firewall bolt hole, Not directly to the ground block. Why not? Package issues? Servicing issues?
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Jeff |
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Ceengland
Joined: 11 Oct 2020
Posts: 391
Location: MS
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2023 11:21 am Post subject: Ground Block Mounting questions |
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On Thu, Jun 15, 2023 at 2:03 PM jcohen(at)post.com (jcohen(at)post.com) <jcohen(at)post.com (jcohen(at)post.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "jcohen(at)post.com (jcohen(at)post.com)" <jcohen(at)post.com (jcohen(at)post.com)>
I am building an RV7 and have the BandC GB48 48 tab ground block. It appears to have only one pass thru bolt for mounting (pic attached). My questions are:
1. Do people recommend soldering the entire piece ( 0.04” flat brass stock ) to the stainless steel firewall for mounting and good conductivity, in addition to the pass thru bolt provided? If so, just regular solder with flux? And a whopping big iron needed for the heat sink issues?
2. Any reason not to just rivet the brass plate to the firewall? Like dissimilar metal issues between copper and stainless steel?
3. I assume I can flip the bolt direction of the attached picture, to have the pass through bolt head on the interior cockpit side with the tabs, and the protruding stud on the engine side of the firewall, near the battery ground post, so a short ground cable can run from the battery to this ground block stud. But in searching for application pics, I don’t see this. I see most people just ground the battery negative post to a nearby firewall bolt hole, Not directly to the ground block. Why not? Package issues? Servicing issues?
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Jeff
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I suspect that the tabs would start falling off the plate before you could get it hot enough to solder to something else. Do you have room on the other end to drill for a smaller bolt; say an AN3? I home-brewed my tabs plate, and used a bolt at each end to attach it. The primary bolt is a longer 5/16" from the plumbing isle of the local Ace Aviation supply (  ) that I ran through the plate, then firewall, nutted, then used as my FWF ground stud, like you're describing.
FWIW...
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jluckey(at)pacbell.net
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2023 11:36 am Post subject: Ground Block Mounting questions |
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Hello Jeff,
1. Don't solder it to firewall. A bolted connection is the correct way to attach it (PS, you can't solder stainless)
2. Don't rivet it either. The typical method is to thru bolt it using 2 big brass bolts. 5/16 or 3/8 bolts.
3. What you said. Battery neg directly to one of the big grounding-block mounting-bolts with a big wire. From that bolt I would also run the engine grounding strap/cable directly to the block, usually near the starter motor.
Jeff Luckey
KCMA
On Thursday, June 15, 2023 at 12:06:33 PM PDT, jcohen(at)post.com <jcohen(at)post.com> wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "jcohen(at)post.com" <jcohen(at)post.com (jcohen(at)post.com)>
I am building an RV7 and have the BandC GB48 48 tab ground block. It appears to have only one pass thru bolt for mounting (pic attached). My questions are:
1. Do people recommend soldering the entire piece ( 0.04� flat brass stock ) to the stainless steel firewall for mounting and good conductivity, in addition to the pass thru bolt provided? If so, just regular solder with flux? And a whopping big iron needed for the heat sink issues?
2. Any reason not to just rivet the brass plate to the firewall? Like dissimilar metal issues between copper and stainless steel?
3. I assume I can flip the bolt direction of the attached picture, to have the pass through bolt head on the interior cockpit side with the tabs, and the protruding stud on the engine side of the firewall, near the battery ground post, so a short ground cable can run from the battery to this ground block stud. But in searching for application pics, I don’t see this. I see most people just ground the battery negative post to a nearby firewall bolt hole, Not directly to the ground block. Why not? Package issues? Servicing issues?
--------
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=510975#510975
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/groundblock_gb48_911.jpeg
http://www.matr===================
http://wiki.matronics.co======================
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Eric Page
Joined: 15 Feb 2017
Posts: 245
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| Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2023 11:52 am Post subject: Re: Ground Block Mounting questions |
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My homemade solution is much like what Charlie described, but with one brass bolt in the center. I plan to use a single small bolt elsewhere on the plate just to prevent rotation.
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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jcohen@post.com
Joined: 10 Mar 2022
Posts: 17
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| Posted: Fri Jun 16, 2023 9:56 am Post subject: Re: Ground Block Mounting questions |
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I do have room to drill a second bolt; will do. And I'll run the battery neg cable directly to the big 5/16 bolt. Thanks to all for your replies.
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