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riddon(at)sent.com
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 Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 12:22 am Post subject: engine preservation |
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Due to other commitments I am laying my 912S up for an extended period. The Rotax engine manual calls for oil change, injection of ‘corrosion inhibiting oil’ into the carb’s whilst the engine is running, closing all holes such as exhaust etc and spraying the outside with corrosion inhibiting oil. What would the recommended oil be for this and, other than the steps above, is there anything else I should consider?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
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01/11/2006
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Paul Sistern
Joined: 03 Nov 2006
Posts: 9
Location: UK
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 2:15 am Post subject: Re: engine preservation |
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Hi Richard,
Enginewise do a 'Petrol Engine Lay-Up Kit' which includes everything for protecting the engine over extended periods, including dehydration plugs in 12mm size to replace one plug per cylinder. See www.partsforaircraft.co.uk or www.enginewise.co.uk for all sorts of anti-corrosion products.
Cheers,
Paul
G-CBKY
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alan(at)kestrel-insurance
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 2:40 am Post subject: engine preservation |
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Hi Richard,
Kate and I have just returned from the International Comanche Society Convention in Australia and whilst there we attended a lecture on this very subject given by a senior Lycoming exec.He told us that shell have just developed a new oil for this purpose. Apparently it leaves a coating on all the moving parts that remain attached for a considerable time, and prevents internal deterioration and corrosion. Sorry I can’t remember it’s exact name ( I was prob asleep by this stage) I think it was something like Aeroshell 30 but if you contact the Shell website I am sure they will advise.
Interestingly he also recommended removing the oil filler cap after running the engine to allow vapour to escape from the hot engine rather than remain inside , probably not as relevant to us given that we have a separate oil tank but still worth noting. The other important thing that came out of this lecture was the need to seal all external holes to prevent ingress.
Hope this helps, don’t stay grounded for too long.
Kind regards
Alan
Ps our twin commanche is currently being overhauled at ANT just round the corner from you! So we might see you at Blackpool shortly.
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon
Sent: 04 November 2006 08:22
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: engine preservation
Due to other commitments I am laying my 912S up for an extended period. The Rotax engine manual calls for oil change, injection of ‘corrosion inhibiting oil’ into the carb’s whilst the engine is running, closing all holes such as exhaust etc and spraying the outside with corrosion inhibiting oil. What would the recommended oil be for this and, other than the steps above, is there anything else I should consider?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
--
01/11/2006 0123456789012345
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riddon(at)sent.com
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:12 am Post subject: engine preservation |
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Alan.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll check the shell web site.
My bird is at home at present and I am heading back to my boat in Trinidad next week with a plan to head for Panama and maybe cross the Pacific next year so I don’t think there is much chance of bumping into you at Blackpool for a while.
Hope your plan to take yours to Florida comes off. I guess it is a lovely place to fly.
Regards.
Richard.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Burrows
Sent: 04 November 2006 10:39
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: engine preservation
Hi Richard,
Kate and I have just returned from the International Comanche Society Convention in Australia and whilst there we attended a lecture on this very subject given by a senior Lycoming exec.He told us that shell have just developed a new oil for this purpose. Apparently it leaves a coating on all the moving parts that remain attached for a considerable time, and prevents internal deterioration and corrosion. Sorry I can’t remember it’s exact name ( I was prob asleep by this stage) I think it was something like Aeroshell 30 but if you contact the Shell website I am sure they will advise.
Interestingly he also recommended removing the oil filler cap after running the engine to allow vapour to escape from the hot engine rather than remain inside , probably not as relevant to us given that we have a separate oil tank but still worth noting. The other important thing that came out of this lecture was the need to seal all external holes to prevent ingress.
Hope this helps, don’t stay grounded for too long.
Kind regards
Alan
Ps our twin commanche is currently being overhauled at ANT just round the corner from you! So we might see you at Blackpool shortly.
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon
Sent: 04 November 2006 08:22
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: engine preservation
Due to other commitments I am laying my 912S up for an extended period. The Rotax engine manual calls for oil change, injection of ‘corrosion inhibiting oil’ into the carb’s whilst the engine is running, closing all holes such as exhaust etc and spraying the outside with corrosion inhibiting oil. What would the recommended oil be for this and, other than the steps above, is there anything else I should consider?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
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01/11/2006 [/b][b]http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
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03/11/2006
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03/11/2006
[quote][b]
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riddon(at)sent.com
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:51 am Post subject: engine preservation |
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Oops sorry, that should have just gone to Alan.
Do not archive.
Richard
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon
Sent: 04 November 2006 11:11
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: engine preservation
Alan.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll check the shell web site.
My bird is at home at present and I am heading back to my boat in Trinidad next week with a plan to head for Panama and maybe cross the Pacific next year so I don’t think there is much chance of bumping into you at Blackpool for a while.
Hope your plan to take yours to Florida comes off. I guess it is a lovely place to fly.
Regards.
Richard.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Burrows
Sent: 04 November 2006 10:39
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: engine preservation
Hi Richard,
Kate and I have just returned from the International Comanche Society Convention in Australia and whilst there we attended a lecture on this very subject given by a senior Lycoming exec.He told us that shell have just developed a new oil for this purpose. Apparently it leaves a coating on all the moving parts that remain attached for a considerable time, and prevents internal deterioration and corrosion. Sorry I can’t remember it’s exact name ( I was prob asleep by this stage) I think it was something like Aeroshell 30 but if you contact the Shell website I am sure they will advise.
Interestingly he also recommended removing the oil filler cap after running the engine to allow vapour to escape from the hot engine rather than remain inside , probably not as relevant to us given that we have a separate oil tank but still worth noting. The other important thing that came out of this lecture was the need to seal all external holes to prevent ingress.
Hope this helps, don’t stay grounded for too long.
Kind regards
Alan
Ps our twin commanche is currently being overhauled at ANT just round the corner from you! So we might see you at Blackpool shortly.
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Iddon
Sent: 04 November 2006 08:22
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: engine preservation
Due to other commitments I am laying my 912S up for an extended period. The Rotax engine manual calls for oil change, injection of ‘corrosion inhibiting oil’ into the carb’s whilst the engine is running, closing all holes such as exhaust etc and spraying the outside with corrosion inhibiting oil. What would the recommended oil be for this and, other than the steps above, is there anything else I should consider?
Richard Iddon G-RIXS
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robneils(at)qwest.net
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 12:59 pm Post subject: engine preservation |
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Here’s an engine dehumidifier you can build to increase the probability that your engine will make it to TBO.
An Engine Dehumidifier
EAA Chapter 79 Spokane, WA ---Dave Barker
The only owners likely to reach TBO targets are those who use their aircraft on a nearly daily basis. Why? The reason is not the flying. It is the parking! The primary culprit for premature aircraft engine overhaul is corrosion caused by condensation within the engine cavity that occurs after shutdown. Aircraft engines that are used daily frequently reach their rated TBO because liquid condensate is boiled off on a regular basis. Low use results in reduced engine life. As the engine cools and the internal temperature drops below the dew point, liquid moisture condenses out of the vapor and clings to internal engine surfaces. This liquid water then resumes its ongoing process of eating up your engine from the inside out. However, if the dew point can be made sufficiently low, then liquid water will never form. The engine dehumidifier provides a continuous positive pressure injection of extremely dry air (dew point approximately -100°F) on a 24/7 continuous flow basis.
How it works:
The dehumidifier is connected the engine as soon after engine shutdown as possible before it cools. It is then run on a 24/7 basis. A small aquarium air pump forces ambient humid air thru a Plenum bottle containing Silica Gel, the stuff used in shipping and storing aircraft engines and electronics. The Silica Gel has a great affinity for moisture and literally sucks it out of the air. The dried air is filtered and injected into the engine crankcase.
Any moisture inside the engine vaporizes with the incoming dry air and is displaced overboard by the constant positive pressure from the air pump. At some point in time, the Silica Gel will absorb all the moisture it can hold and turns blue.
At that time: - Remove the Blue saturated Silica Gel from the bottle.
- Spread it out on a cookie sheet.
- Heat in oven at 350°F until it turns pinkish again.
- Cool and return to the plenum bottle.
That's' it.
The frequency of this recycle rate will depend up the humidity of the local environment varying from six months or more in dry regions down to just a few weeks in deeply humid climates. Adding more Silica Gel to the Plenum will extend the service interval.
Connection hookup:
Connect the drier output via Tygon plastic tubing to a convenient engine crankcase access port usually the crankcase blow-by vent. Alternately, a short standpipe may be added oil filler cap. I adapted a custom oil filler cap by drilling through the length of a 1/4" -20 carriage bolt. (I used a lathe to cut off the threads on the leading ½” of the bolt. This permits a slip fit of the Tygon dry air supply hose. The hollow bolt was then installed on the oil fill cap. Additionally I made a 11/4” -20 threaded Delrin plastic plug to cap this little standpipe for flight.
Please NOTE: If you chose to use the crankcase blow-by vent pipe as the input port you will have to also devise a temporary plug for the freeze-emergency blow-by slot located few inches up the blow-by vent pipe inside the aircraft engine nacelle. If this slot is not blocked~ then you will be dumping the dried air out of this slot instead of into the engine crankcase.
Dehumidifier Components consist of:
- Vibrating reed type aquarium air pump.*
- 2-liter plastic pop bottle.
- Airstone aquarium air bubbler
- Six feet of 1/8” bore Tygon plastic aquarium tubing.
- 12” of 3/16” o.d. (1/8” i.d.) rigid plastic tubing.
- 1 pound of silica gel pellets.
*Note: The low cost aquarium pumps do have an irritating 60 Hz buzzes caused by their vibrating reed design. So-called “silent” pumps are of the same design but are supported in a manner the will minimize noise. If you spend allot of time in the hangar get the “silent” pump.
Tools Required:
Exacto Knife
3/16” drill
Hot Glue Gun
Parts List:
Aquarium Air Pump (* Optional Silent Air Pump)
2 liter clear plastic pop bottle with screw on cap.
6’ Tygon aquarium tubing
l2" rigid 1/8"plastic tubing
Aquarium bubbler Air Stone
1 lb. Silica Gel Pellets or desiccant pellets or if you are at an absolute loss in scrounging Silica Gel, it can be purchased from the Michel's Craft Stores Chain. They sell it for drying flowers. It is highly overpriced. One of our chapter members scored 50 lbs of Silica Gel from our local airport engine conversion shop that installs P&W turbines on the Piper Malibu. The new turbines containers are packaged with Silica Gel.
Fabrication:
Drill 2 ea. 3/16" -1/4" off the center in the top of the bottle cap close enough to enter to allow easy tube clearance of the bottle neck interior wall. For the pump inlet input, insert a 2" length of the rigid tubing in one hole and hot glue in place.
Insert the remaining 10" rigid tube in the other hole and hot glue it so the bottom end of the tube is positioned about 2" from the bottom of the bottle. Use a 1" length of the Tygon flex tube to connect the aquarium bubbler Airstone to the end of the longer rigid tubing. The Airstone is used as a dust filter to keep Silica Gel articles out of the engine. The Airstone should lie on the bottom of the bottle.
Fill a clean dry 2-liter pop bottle with 1 pound of Silica Gel pellets or Granules. Insert Airstone/tube assembly, work it to the bottom of the bottle and tighten the cap. Use Tygon tubing to plumb the air pump to the short air input stub. Connect 5 feet or so of Tygon tubing to the Airstone equipped exit port and to the crankcase breather port or any other convenient access to the engine crankcase. Note: This must be a leak tight fit. Mating to a typical crankcase vent tube usually located near the firewall may be done by inserting a piece of the rigid tubing through a closed-cell-foam ball or a tight fitting rubber stopper.
[quote][b]
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
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| Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 1:32 pm Post subject: engine preservation |
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Rob
there is another way that some Lycosaurus boys use to prep their engines
for winter, (in Michigan) fill the engine completely with oil, that way
there's no room for air so no condensate.
The dehumidifier would be good for intermittent use, the oil fill for a
3 month shut down until the snow goes away.
Graham
Rob Neils, Ph.D. wrote:
| Quote: | Here’s an engine dehumidifier you can build to increase the
probability that your engine will make it to TBO.
*
*
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