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bressler(at)wyoming.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:20 am Post subject: Wing skin tension |
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Thread Users:
We are building a 601XL from a kit and are about to turn the first wing. The Photo Guide indicates that after installation of the nose ribs and leading edge skin, the wing is again turned and tension straps are used for making the final curvature. The instructions indicate that a 2x4 should be used to bring the skin into alignment. Our concern is that local lumber yards only handle grade 2 "construction grade" pine that will have warps and twists in a 12' length. How important is it that the 2x4 be straight and flat? Is there another method that others have used for load distribution?
Wes & Lurlene Bressler
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frank.hinde(at)hp.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:56 am Post subject: Wing skin tension |
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It certainly does not have to be completely flat but not horribly
twisted either....a standard #2 should be fine.
If your worried about it u could rip some strips of ply and glue them
together to make 1.5 thick but personally I think this is overkill.
Frank
601 HDS 390 hours
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BillHowerton Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:09 am Post subject: Wing skin tension |
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I'ts reallno not critical that the boards be perferct, as long as they
can lay flat on the skin. The main thing you need to think about is that
the skin be subjected to even pressure. Instead of 2X4's I used three
1X2's. That way, I was able to duct-tape them to the skin so they
wouldn't shift while the straps were tightened.
Bill
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doug kandle
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 33 Location: Boise ID
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:12 am Post subject: Wing skin tension |
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Wes & Lurlene:
I used lengths MDF and vinyl trim/moldings (trim used on exterior
doors is about 1 x 2 or a bit bigger). While neither of these are as
rigid as solid wood, they are dimensionally stable. They worked
well, especially the vinyl.
Doug Kandle, CH 701
At 08:15 AM 1/27/2006, you wrote:
Quote: |
<bressler(at)wyoming.com>
Thread Users:
We are building a 601XL from a kit and are about to turn the first
wing. The Photo Guide indicates that after installation of the nose
ribs and leading edge skin, the wing is again turned and tension
straps are used for making the final curvature. The instructions
indicate that a 2x4 should be used to bring the skin into alignment.
Our concern is that local lumber yards only handle grade 2
"construction grade" pine that will have warps and twists in a 12'
length. How important is it that the 2x4 be straight and flat? Is
there another method that others have used for load distribution?
Wes & Lurlene Bressler
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nfivesl(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:46 am Post subject: Wing skin tension |
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Hi Wes (and Lurlene):
Don't sweat it. As long as you can find something
that will press evenly across most of the length you
will be fine. I did it so many times I didn't use the
wood after it was drilled. I ripped a 2x4 in half so
I'd have two pieces. It's just there to spread out
the load. Here's a picture and you can see that my
timber was not perfectly flat:
http://www.cooknwithgas.com/2_25_04_Wing1.JPG
You will be a pro at this before it's over since
you'll get lots of practice.
Happy Building,
Scott Laughlin
www.cooknwithgas.com
--- Wes or Lurlene Bressler <bressler(at)wyoming.com>
wrote:
Quote: |
Bressler" <bressler(at)wyoming.com>
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Is there another method that others have
Quote: | used for load distribution?
Wes & Lurlene Bressler
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p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:15 am Post subject: Wing skin tension |
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Quote: | I guess we all missed the part about using 2x4's. I used 1x3's I
selected for their straight grain. I agree it is more important for
the boards to be flat than anything else. It doesn't matter if they
have holes in them or chips missing - only that they can lay flat on the skin.
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Good luck,
Paul
XL wings
Quote: | Thread Users:
We are building a 601XL from a kit and are about to turn the first
wing. The Photo Guide indicates that after installation of the nose
ribs and leading edge skin, the wing is again turned and tension
straps are used for making the final curvature. The instructions
indicate that a 2x4 should be used to bring the skin into alignment.
Our concern is that local lumber yards only handle grade 2
"construction grade" pine that will have warps and twists in a 12'
length. How important is it that the 2x4 be straight and flat? Is
there another method that others have used for load distribution?
Wes & Lurlene Bressler
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zodierocket(at)hsfx.ca Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 3:36 pm Post subject: Wing skin tension |
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DUCT TAPE !!! now why the hell didn't I think of that on my 1X2's The
shifting board act was akin to an episode of the keystone cops!!!
Mark Townsend Alma, Ontario
Zodiac 601XL C-GOXL, CH701 just started
www.ch601.org / www.ch701.com / www.Osprey2.com
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billn(at)velocity.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 3:52 pm Post subject: Wing skin tension |
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The hold-down doesn't "Bring the skin into alignment". Correct shim height,
making sure the shims can't move, and making sure you have the print correct
part in the print correct location does.
I found that the 1x3s I scavenged from the packing crate to be perfectly
suitable. Just make sure there are no exposed staples.
Bill
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nfivesl(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 4:43 pm Post subject: Wing skin tension |
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Shims? You lost me there. I must have missed
something because I didn't use any shims.
--- "William J. Naumuk" <billn(at)velocity.net> wrote:
Quote: |
Naumuk" <billn(at)velocity.net>
The hold-down doesn't "Bring the skin into
alignment". Correct shim height,
making sure the shims can't move, and making sure
you have the print correct
part in the print correct location does.
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bressler(at)wyoming.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 6:49 am Post subject: Wing Skin Tension |
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Thanks Guys:
Thanks for all the responses, it was nearly overwhelming. The many suggestions are greatly appreciated. We will try to get through our worrisome period and, as Nick would say " be productive". Do Not Archive
Wes & Lurlene Bressler
Laramie, WY
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