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M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing

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shericom(at)rogers.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:14 pm Post subject: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing

Hi everyone, I have a question about the fiberglass

fairing on the rudder post of my M4 speedster.(under

construction) The construction manual says to cut

large enough holes in the fairing to get the attaching

bolts through the rudder tabs and tail post rod ends.

OK, I assume when the fabric is applied the holes need

to be cut out to provide access as stated above, My

question is, are these holes covered up in some way

after final assembly as they are quite large and will

certainly be  visible? I hope the makes sense to

someone but not to me! Looking forward to some help on

this one, Thanks, Don.



Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada

M4/1200-912 Speedster

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roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 3:18 pm Post subject: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing

Don mine are quite large and will be visable when the rudder is turned.  Ron 

NB Or



  do not archive



 	  Quote: 	
		  From: Donald STEVENSON <shericom(at)rogers.com>

Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com

To: Kitfox List <kitfox-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing Date: Fri, 27 Jan 

2006 16:10:32 -0500 (EST)






Hi everyone, I have a question about the fiberglass

fairing on the rudder post of my M4 speedster.(under

construction) The construction manual says to cut

large enough holes in the fairing to get the attaching

bolts through the rudder tabs and tail post rod ends.

OK, I assume when the fabric is applied the holes need

to be cut out to provide access as stated above, My

question is, are these holes covered up in some way

after final assembly as they are quite large and will

certainly be  visible? I hope the makes sense to

someone but not to me! Looking forward to some help on

this one, Thanks, Don.



Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada

M4/1200-912 Speedster

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cliffh(at)outdrs.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:32 pm Post subject: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing

My Kitfox is painted lemon yellow. I covered these holes on the rudder with 

yellow duct tape.



Floran H.

---

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szakreski(at)shaw.ca
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:29 pm Post subject: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing

No the holes are not covered, and yep... are definitely visible.  But to me

they add a high tech look to the rudder. I'm fairly picky, but they don't

bother me. 



SteveZ

Calgary (brother lives in Mono Mills!)

Classic IV/NSIEA81/CAP



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shericom(at)rogers.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 5:03 am Post subject: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing

Hi Steve, Sounds to me as if the holes in your rudder

post are much neater then mine, these were cut by the

original Pearson who started the build and did not or

could not do anything with any amount of finesse, I

have spent the last year re-doing a lot of his work

and will soon be ready to cover. My construction

manual has no detail on the holes, so I flying blind

so to speak. If you have anything you could send me

that would show how they should be done that would be

great!

Thanks for your help as well as others who replied. 

Best regards, Don



Don Stevenson, Caledon, Ontario, Canada

M4/1200-912 Speedster

--- Steve Zakreski <szakreski(at)shaw.ca> wrote:



[quote] 

 <szakreski(at)shaw.ca>

 

 No the holes are not covered, and yep... are

 definitely visible.  But to me

 they add a high tech look to the rudder. I'm fairly

 picky, but they don't

 bother me. 

 

 SteveZ

 Calgary (brother lives in Mono Mills!)

 Classic IV/NSIEA81/CAP

 

 --

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rkstevens(at)verizon.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 5:52 am Post subject: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing

One neat thing that I saw somebody do to cover the unsightly rudder post

access holes is to fabricate some aluminum covers.  Here's how it's done:



- Cut the access holes in the rudder post fairing as normal.  I actually cut

them a little oversize so it's easier to get to the bolt & nut on the

inside.

- Then fabricate a small aluminum cover that goes over the outside of the

access hole.  You'll need to cut a slot in the aluminum cover plate for the

rudder hinges.   But the rudder hinge holes can be very small & neat as

compared to the rudder access holes in the fiberglass fairing.  Use very

thin gauge aluminum that can be easily bent to the shape of the rudder

fairing.

- I used nutplates to attach the aluminum plates to the rudder post.  



After the aluminum plates are painted, the access holes virtually disappear.

Makes for a very neat installation.



Ron

Series 6



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dan(at)azshowersolutions.
Guest

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 6:13 am Post subject: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing

Does anyone have a picture of this?

  Dan

  www.azshowersolutions.com/Kitfox1.html



Ron Stevens <rkstevens(at)verizon.net> wrote:

  



One neat thing that I saw somebody do to cover the unsightly rudder post

access holes is to fabricate some aluminum covers. Here's how it's done:



- Cut the access holes in the rudder post fairing as normal. I actually cut

them a little oversize so it's easier to get to the bolt & nut on the

inside.

- Then fabricate a small aluminum cover that goes over the outside of the

access hole. You'll need to cut a slot in the aluminum cover plate for the

rudder hinges. But the rudder hinge holes can be very small & neat as

compared to the rudder access holes in the fiberglass fairing. Use very

thin gauge aluminum that can be easily bent to the shape of the rudder

fairing.

- I used nutplates to attach the aluminum plates to the rudder post. 



After the aluminum plates are painted, the access holes virtually disappear.

Makes for a very neat installation.



Ron

Series 6



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lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 9:04 am Post subject: M4 Speedster Rudder post Fairing

One thing I learned from the Lancair build - they use a lot of instant 

glue - temporary positioning of parts for drilling etc.  The bolt insertion 

issue is a problem there as well, as the airplanes are quite fast and having 

everything faired is a major issue.  The glue comes in handy as you can glue 

the bolt head to a strip of aluminum that is bent to allow for bolt 

insertion in a tight space and after the bolt is in place snap the strip 

off.  The only consideration  then  becomes the clearance for the wrench. 

And some will use a fine ratchet to minimize the need for a long throw.



One other trick they use in this area is to take several short lengths of 

metal rod the same diameter as the bolt and taper one end.  Then make a 

tight 90 degree bend near the tapered end and use that in the hinge to 

position everything first then one at a time remove that and insert the 

bolt.



When I built, I bet I spent hours putting that part together.



Lowell

---

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