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FSII Dihedral

 
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jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 6:34 am    Post subject: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

At 07:11 AM 11/19/06 -0500, you wrote:
Quote:


It flies hands off, you can drive it around with rudder only, and it seems
to handle very well. Flown it like that for a year, no negatives. I put my
MKIII in the garage yesterday, it is getting longer wing struts and we'll
see how it does.

Richard,

It seems like it would require additional rudder to side or forward slip.
This could be a factor for cross wind landings. Have you noticed any
difference? What is the actual dihedral in degrees? Has it influenced
roll rate?

Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN


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David.Lehman



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 265
Location: "Lovely" Fresno CA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 6:41 am    Post subject: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

Oops... Aren't Kolbs supposed to have dihedral?... Mine does, although I've never measured how many degrees...

DVD

do not archive


On 11/19/06, Jack B. Hart <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net (jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net)> wrote: [quote]--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Jack B. Hart" < jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net (jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net)>

At 07:11 AM 11/19/06 -0500, you wrote:
Quote:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org (richard(at)bcchapel.org)>

It flies hands off, you can drive it around with rudder only, and it seems
to handle very well. Flown it like that for a year, no negatives. I put my
MKIII in the garage yesterday, it is getting longer wing struts and we'll
see how it does.

Richard,

It seems like it would require additional rudder to side or forward slip.
This could be a factor for cross wind landings. Have you noticed any
difference? What is the actual dihedral in degrees? Has it influenced
roll rate?

Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN

[b]


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Bill Vincent



Joined: 30 Jan 2006
Posts: 84

PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 7:54 am    Post subject: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

Hi Gang
My FS II flies perfect with just a little bit of dihedral. I used to own a TO-Bird, which had a lot of dihedral, I could fly it "hands off" but I paid for it with a lot of adverse Yaw, meaning if I give it left rudder the nose would go right.
Bill Vincent
FS II
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Do Not Archive
[quote] ---


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Firestar II
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
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Richard Pike



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee

PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:38 am    Post subject: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

---

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Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0

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planecrazzzy
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 3:21 pm    Post subject: Re: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

Hi Dave,
They say that there's No Dihedral in the wing....But in the builders manual it sez how to go about setting the wings and measuring the lift strut length....and it sez you'll get an inch or so of Dihedral....

"I" snuck just a little more....and I've seen others that took "ALOT" more.
My next plane ( Tailwind ) has no dihedral either.... I wonder if I'll sneak a little in there.... I don't know yet....
.
.
.
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
.
.
.

[/quote]

David.Lehman wrote:
Oops... Aren't Kolbs supposed to have dihedral?... Mine does, although I've never measured how many degrees...

DVD

do not archive




[b]


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AirworthinessInspection 023.jpg
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Although from this picture I can't really see the dihedral that I added
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AirworthinessInspection 023.jpg


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David.Lehman



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 265
Location: "Lovely" Fresno CA

PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:28 pm    Post subject: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

Hi Mike...

Mine's not real noticable, in fact, I didn't realize it was there until I tried to install a "connecting" tube between the two leading edge tubes and found that the tubes pointed down...

DVD

do not archive


On 11/19/06, planecrazzzy <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com)> wrote: [quote]--> Kolb-List message posted by: "planecrazzzy" <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com)>

Hi Dave,
They say that there's No Dihedral in the wing....But in the builders manual it sez how to go about setting the wings and measuring the lift strut length....and it sez you'll get an inch or so of Dihedral....

"I" snuck just a little more....and I've seen others that took "ALOT" more.
My next plane ( Tailwind ) has no dihedral either.... I wonder if I'll sneak a little in there.... I don't know yet....
.
.
.
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
.
.
.
[quote="David.Lehman"]Oops... Aren't Kolbs supposed to have dihedral?... Mine does, although I've never measured how many degrees...

DVD

do not archive
[b]


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vincenic1(at)earthlink.ne
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 7:55 pm    Post subject: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

Previous message:

Quote:
> It seems like it would require additional rudder to side or forward
> slip.
> This could be a factor for cross wind landings. Have you noticed any
> difference? What is the actual dihedral in degrees? Has it influenced
> roll rate?
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN

I wrote a couple of notes about the flight characteristics with

increased dihedral. The notes are partially copied below from the
archive for those who might be interested.

Vince Nicely
Firestar II

do not archive

Part of Note 1 - Aug 98

*My Firestar II is mostly a rudder airplane, but it was not always that way.
Let me explain. When first setup as nearly as I could follow the Kolb
builders manual, my airplane gave an unusual rudder response compared to my
GA experience. Specifically, on application of rudder, it would slow, pitch
nose up and eventually could ususally be made to stall if rudder was held
full over. Furthermore, if the airplane was in a bit of a bank, the rudder
alone would not lift the wing or cause the airplane to unbank, but caused
the other responses noted above.

I decided to add more dihedral because that seemed like it had a chance to
make the responses more conventional compared to GA planes which I wanted.
Three degrees (3.6 degrees actually, VAN 11/06) of dihedral makes my Firestar II able to fly all day without
touching the stick. Slight rudder inputs provide all the roll control that
is needed. It can be brought out of a fairly steep (say 20-30 degree) bank
with rudder alone. It has just about neutral spiral stability, i.e., when
put in a bank it will approximately hold or slightly lower the bank angle
without control inputs.

When my plane is stalled, the rudder is very effective at lifting a wing (or
in the other direction for putting it into a spin). I have not tried the
ailerons near stall, so can't comment until I fly it again. However, I
might not want to start using the ailerons because if it became a habit I
think that can complicate
the stall situation in many GA aircraft which I fly some times. Also, I
understand that in some aerobatic aircraft, at least, flat or knife-edge
spins are initiated by how the ailerons are held at spin entry.

At any rate, it would appear from my experience the details of setup can
make some difference in how they fly.

Vince*

Note 2 in Answer to Some Questions -

*>Vince: Very interesting. I only have experience with wings rigged to
Quote:
Homer's standards. By increasing dihedral, have you decreased performance?
How much increase in inches to get 3 degree increase in dihedral measured
at the outboard rib?

john h
A very reasonable question. Sorry I didn't think to include that information

the first time.

I raised the outer tip of the wing 10" above the inboard edge. This turns
out to be about 3.5 degrees I think. By the way, on my Firestar II that
means the lift struts needed to be 2-1/4" longer than the standard setup.
Because my plane is folded in storage, I can't easily measure at the
outboard rib at this time, but it will be about 9" or a little more.

You are right that I have given up a little performance. At the time, I
made some estimates and as I recall it was a trivial amount. The amount of
dihedral was not optimized, either. Because I had to purchase parts to make
the new lift struts, I made them at the longest I could imagine would be
needed so they could be shortened if needed. I liked the way it flew with
the 2-1/4" longer strut and did not experiment further.

As you can imagine, the wings are noticeably canted up. Some have wondered
if this is a problem in a cross wind with getting the wind under the wing
and raising it. I have set the plane sidewise to an 11 knot wind on an
airport ramp to see what happens. Then by trying to lift the up-wind and
down-wind wing tip, I decided the wind at 11 knots puts little lift on the
up-sloped wing.

Regards,
Vince*


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Dave Bigelow



Joined: 29 Jan 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Kamuela, Hawaii

PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 1:15 am    Post subject: Re: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

The FS II rigged with only a few inches of dihedral from the plans has spiral instability. If you let go of the stick and get bumped into a little bit of bank, the bank will continue to increase until you provide a correction. Some people confuse this with roll responsiveness, since it takes very little stick input to start a roll, however it takes a lot more input to stop or reverse the roll. An aircraft with spiral instability that has powerful ailerons is not unsafe, but does require a constant hand on the stick to keep the wings level. It's kind of like driving an automobile that does not have the front wheel camber, caster, and toe in set correctly.

I added dihedral to my FS II until I could fly it hands off, and if rudder was held in either direction, the aircraft would gradually start a bank in that direction. It makes for a much more pleasant flying aircraft, and I notice no appreciable difference in performance. If you add too much dihedral, it can reduce the roll rate. Here's how it goes:

1. Add dihedral - more roll stability; more adverse yaw when moving the ailerons; more yaw/roll coupling when you move the rudder.

2. Remove dihedral - less roll stability; less adverse yaw when moving the ailerons; less yaw/roll coupling when moving the rudder.

Too much one way, and the aircraft gets twitchy and harder to fly. Too much the other way, and it becomes a truck. Look for the sweet spot in the middle somewhere.


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FS2, HKS 700E
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leecannon(at)telus.net
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 7:53 am    Post subject: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

I recently purchased a Twinstar which the builder added dihedral to.(
about the same as the subject FS II) He also added a full wrap aluminum
leading edge skin. I called Homer Kolb and asked his opinion on these
changes and he didn't seem too alarmed. I believe he said something like, "
Maybee he planned on doing some cross country flying" (referring to the
builder). If you look at many planes from the past ( champ, cub, t craft,
beaver ) they have a bunch of built in dihedral - it's a good thing .
Actually, when I first looked at Kolbs I was surprized that there was no
dihedral - I still don't really get it? Why don't Kolbs have dihedral?
cheers, Rob Cannon, Saltspring Island, B.C.
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jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 9:34 am    Post subject: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

At 01:15 AM 11/20/06 -0800, you wrote:
Quote:


1. Add dihedral - more roll stability; more adverse yaw when moving the ailerons; more yaw/roll coupling when you move the rudder.

2. Remove dihedral - less roll stability; less adverse yaw when moving the airlerons; less yaw/roll coupling when moving the rudder.

Too much one way, and the aircraft gets twitchy and harder to fly. Too much the other way, and it becomes a truck. Look for the sweet spot in the middle somewhere.


Dave,

My FireFly was the twitchy truck variety with the Kolb plan specified
dihedral. The reason it was a truck was because cause of excessive aileron
chord that lead to high control forces in roll. One could not displace
the ailerons at cruise. This doomed one to kicking rudders to keep the
wings level. By changing the wing chord from fifteen inches to nine inches
and changing the crank to push rod leverage points the truck became a
twitchy sports car.

Removing all slack from the aileron control system and adding VG's the
twitchiness has disappeared. If one lets go of the stick it will slowly
roll off to one side. Stick pressure required to keep the wings level in
rough air is very light. It is nimble and quick and goes where it supposed
to. And best of all, I can fly it an hour in the middle of the day and have
enough energy left to get right back in it and do it again.

Adding dihedral to compensate for aileron high dynamic loading will make the
aircraft more stable in roll. But it will require more pilot effort to fly
in the middle of the day or cross country than a plane with reasonable sized
ailerons.

Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN


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Dave Bigelow



Joined: 29 Jan 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Kamuela, Hawaii

PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 6:35 pm    Post subject: Re: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

Jack,

The heavy aileron control force problem you describe with the Firefly has little to do with dihedral. The Firestar has responsive and easy to move ailerons. Adding some dihedral adds little extra control force unless you go to extremes.

Almost any aircraft will slowly start a roll to one side or other if you stay off the controls long enough. If it has spiral instability, it will continue to roll off to a high angle of bank. If it has the proper amount of spiral stability, the bank will stabilize at 20 - 30 degrees.

Don't confuse light control forces with stability - not the same thing.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:35 am    Post subject: FSII Dihedral Reply with quote

At 06:35 PM 11/20/06 -0800, you wrote:
Quote:

The heavy aileron control force problem you describe with the Firefly has little to do with dihedral. The Firestar has responsive and easy to move ailerons. Adding some dihedral adds little extra control force unless you go to extremes.


Dave,

I agree. As long as the in flight cg is below the wing the wing with a
little dihedral will in, in most cases, right its self in roll.

I guess the point I was trying to make is that if you are going to increase
dihedral compensate for heavy roll stick forces, there are other options.

First, you can accept it as it is. If you want to fly with low energy
input, this limits flying to the quiet times. If you want to fly during
the mid-day times, you can bulk up your shoulder through strength training
and attempt to keep the wings level. If you do not want to end up with a
sore shoulder, you can let it roll. I have done this, but after an hour of
kicking rudder pedals to help pick up the wing, I was close to up chucking.
Even though I told my self that I would not apply side pressure to the
stick, I could not refrain from trying to keep the wings level with the
horizon. This resulted in a sore right shoulder.

Second, you can add dihedral, and wing will right itself more quickly in
rough air. But roll stick forces will remain high. On cross countries it
will be a little bit more comfortable, but in my case I would arrive with
sore shoulder. On a FireFly this means you have to replace four struts.

Third, you can add spades with their additional weight.

Fourth, you can reduce aileron chord and modify the aileron linkages to
reduce roll stick forces. This lets you fly in the middle of the day with
low pilot energy output. This is extremely important to me because I am an
"old guy" who rarely gets to the airport before 2 PM. Dropping a few inches
off the aileron chord saves some weight on the FireFly.

Fifth, you can sell your aircraft and purchase or build something that is
more fun to fly.

In my case, my choice was the fourth option. After the addition of VG's and
removing all slack from the roll control components, the FireFly is a pure
delight to fly. In rough air, I do not have to kick a rudder to pick up a
wing. I just apply a little side pressure to the stick and the FireFly
plows straight ahead and the wing remains level. It will bob up and down a
little, but this is not bothersome if the seat belts are tight enough to
keep your back on the seat.

Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN


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