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plugging hole at rear of cylinders

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n616tb(at)btsapps.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 3:20 pm Post subject: plugging hole at rear of cylinders

Hi Listers,



I have mentioned about my high CHT's and got lots of replies.  I am working

on the front area around the inlets and upper ramps based on those replies.

However, I found something else to be addressed.  At the back side of

cylinder #3 right next to the case where the back baffle is.  There is a

hole that goes straight down not where the fins are but where the #3

cylinder is bolted to the case.  It looks like there is a tab on the bottom

of the rear baffle metal that was to be bent up.  I can't bend this now

because it contacts the case and much work to remove the whole thing for

trimming.



There is another hole on the other side next to cylinder #2.  It looks like

it might be too big to just use silicone in there, what are other options?

What have others done in this area?



Thanks

Tim Bryan

RV-6

0-360 A1A

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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
Guest

Posted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 8:34 pm Post subject: plugging hole at rear of cylinders

Tim Bryan wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  

Hi Listers,



I have mentioned about my high CHT's and got lots of replies.  I am working

on the front area around the inlets and upper ramps based on those replies.

However, I found something else to be addressed.  At the back side of

cylinder #3 right next to the case where the back baffle is.  There is a

hole that goes straight down not where the fins are but where the #3

cylinder is bolted to the case.  It looks like there is a tab on the bottom

of the rear baffle metal that was to be bent up.  I can't bend this now

because it contacts the case and much work to remove the whole thing for

trimming.



There is another hole on the other side next to cylinder #2.  It looks like

it might be too big to just use silicone in there, what are other options?

What have others done in this area?



Thanks

Tim Bryan

RV-6

0-360 A1A




	


Can you cut an oversize 'doubler' that will extend far enough to fill 

the gap? Pop rivet to the existing baffle material.

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walter(at)tondu.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:36 am Post subject: plugging hole at rear of cylinders

Fill all those gaps with red RTV.



-- 

Walter Tondu

http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying!

http://www.evorocket.com - Building

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n616tb(at)btsapps.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:40 am Post subject: plugging hole at rear of cylinders

Hi Charlie,



It is almost impossible to get to this spot without removing stuff.  I

suspect it would have been difficult to do when building the baffles in the

first place, but would have been possible.  I would like to just squirt some

silicone in there, but I think the opening is too big for it to stay put.

Possibly I could get some duct tape on the bottom of it, fill it with

silicone and removing the tape after it sets up.



I was wondering if it made sense to stuff something in there to close it up

but feel it is a little too hokey for me.  Surely I am not alone on this.

Maybe this hole is insignificant with regards to cooling, but it is the

biggest hole in my upper pressure area.  With cylinder head temps well above

400 degrees in the winter, I need to find something to change.



Thanks

Tim



[quote] --

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lhelming(at)sigecom.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:34 am Post subject: plugging hole at rear of cylinders

Dear Tim:  Sorry I don't have an answer for an easier fix.  The correct long 

term fix -- as painful and time consuming as it may seem to be -- is to 

remove the baffling, make the bend(s) to eliminate the hole so you can get 

good cooling and put it back together.  Probably a day's or two task at 

most.  Filling a large hole with RTV or some other non metal material will 

be subject to deterioration over time with the heat and vibration going on 

in the engine area.



Best wishes.  Indiana Larry.

---

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rv9jim(at)juno.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:44 pm Post subject: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders

Hey Walter

        There is a new high temp RTV from Permatex.  Its Grey in color

and matches my primer on my baffles.  It has the same high temp rating of

the red stuff.  This way it doesn't look bad when you apply it around the

gaps.  It blends in nicely.  Check your auto supply store as they have a

grey and a black and I believe they both are now high temp.  The "Ultra

Grey" (p/n 82194 or 599BR)  is rated for 625 deg F. 

        I found the gap on my #3 cyl. before I RTV'd it in place.  I

tried to look around every nook and cranny to fine out where air could

bypass.  I also found out the spacer / bolt that holds the rear baffle on

the #4 cyl side also had to be RTV'd.  I however had it done when I found

that area.  So I got our a long stemmed flat screw driver and put little

dabs of RTV on it and placed it down in the area to fill it up and stop

as much gap as I could.



Jim Nelson

RV9-A   FWF

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rv9jim(at)juno.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:46 pm Post subject: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders

Tim,  

        Also don't forget to close off the area under the "upper" fiber

glass inserts that we glass in on the upper cowl.  Air can bypass from

the pressure area over into the low pressure area of the cowl.

Jim Nelson

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ronlee(at)pcisys.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 3:01 pm Post subject: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders

 	  Quote: 	
		  

         Also don't forget to close off the area under the "upper" fiber

glass inserts that we glass in on the upper cowl.  Air can bypass from

the pressure area over into the low pressure area of the cowl.


	




I checked this on mine (RV-6A, O-360)and see no way that air can move from 

the high

pressure to low pressure side.



Ron Lee

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Terry Watson

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 290
Location: Seattle, WA USA

Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 4:20 pm Post subject: Plugging hole at rear of cylinders

I think this depends on exactly how you do the baffle seals at the front of

the engine. With mine it was obvious that it was going to be a huge leak of

pressure, so I glassed off one end of the inserts. I then looked at a

friends very similar setup, but he did the seals differently and sealing the

ends of the insert wasn't necessary.



Terry

RV-8A Aerosport Power O-360-B1B 180 hp

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