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Bell Crank Brass Bushing

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jfogarty(at)tds.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:26 am Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to  receive the AN4 bolt on the RV9 bell crank for the aileron.  I think this  should be done with my drill press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing  straight, please let me know what you think and how you did it.   Thanks.

  

 Jim

   [quote][b]

dale1rv6(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:13 am Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

I would use a lathe. There should be someone nearby that would be glad to help you, does not have to be an airplane builder. Or a machine shop would not charge much.  

Dale  

         

  

From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty

 Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 1:25 PM

 To: rv-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing  

  

     

What is the best way to size the bushing to 1/4" to receive the AN4 bolt on the RV9 bell crank for the aileron.  I think this should be done with my drill press, however, it is hard to keep the bushing straight, please let me know what you think and how you did it.  Thanks.  

    

   

    

Jim  

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bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:44 am Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

Use a reamer in a hand held drill, with lubricant at very low speed. You can clamp it in a vise with padded jaws. Reams are available at Cleaveland, Brown, Avery and machine tool dealers.  

   

Pax,  

   

Ed Holyoke  

   

--

Michael Wynn

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 148
Location: San Ramon, CA

Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:30 pm Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

Hi Jim

  

 I tried using a reamer in my drill press.  Mucked it up pretty  well.  I went to my riveting buddy who is an amateur machinist.  We  used the reamer on a metal lath.  Very slick and perfectly round.   However, that was sort of overkill.  The bolt really just needs to be down  the bushing, fairly centrally.  The actual bearing surface is the outside  of the bushing against the inside of the bellcrank.  So, having a perfectly  reamed interior is not really crucial.  What is crucial is that you don't  scrape up the exterior of the bushing while trying to hold it still to ream the  interior.   

 Regards,



Michael Wynn

RV-8, Fuselage

San Ramon,  California

  [quote][b]

_________________
Michael Wynn
RV 8
San Ramon, CA

Vanremog(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:36 pm Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

I've used a standard reamer backing it thru the bushing, shaft end first,  then chuck up to something you can turn at hand speed as you back ream the  bushing.   

 GV (RV-6A  N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 822hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)  



  [quote][b]

jconnell(at)rconnect.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:39 am Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

Hi Jim,

  

 When I did mine (it's been a few years) I initially  put

 the bushing material in the drill press (hand tighten  only.)

 I had marked the approximate length with the Sharpie  pen.

 The drill was run at a slow speed and the Sharpie  mark

 was visible as it turned.  I used a Dremel tool with a  cut-off

 wheel (one of those with a fiberglass mesh imbedded to  keep

 the wheel from coming apart.  Once this was done I  lowered

 the bushing onto some emery paper to square and polish  the

 end.

              

 If the bolt would not fit in the bushing I would use a  de-burring tool

 to make sure there was no ridge at either end.  The  bushing was placed

 in a padded vise and a reamer was slowly run through the  bushing.



            

 I used a reamer on the bellcrank to insure the hole was  true

 after is was welded and powder-coated.  If the bronze  bushing

 was tight I would put a bolt through the bushing and  mount

 the bolt in the drill press chuck (hand tighten.)  I'd  run the

 drill a little faster and use some emery paper to as a  tool to

 remove a bit from the gushing.  I could do a trial fit  with the bellcrank

 while the bushing was still in the drill press...

  

 Joe Connell

 Stewartville, MN

 RV-9A  FAB and carb fitting

   [quote][b]

Bob Collins

Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 470
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to ream out the bushing. And I held it with a pair of pliars after wrapping it with a cloth. I don't think I got it perfectly centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt to slip in nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it on the Scotchbrite Wheel (fine).   I'm sure the ways suggested would yield a perfect result, but I've seen nothing in the operation of the bellcrank as installed to indicate I've created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method. Of course, the plane isn't flying yet.

_________________
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/

Brad Oliver

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 6
Location: Livermore, CA

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 1:25 pm Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

I haven't done this yet, so I should probably just keep my head down and

my mouth shut, but it is a slow day at work.    Here is what I am

*thinking* of doing when the time comes, which should be very soon.  It

may seem convoluted, but it should only take a few minutes.  Please,

somebody tell me I am crazy, or shoot holes in my proposed method. 



1. On the the drill press, drill a small (3" square or so) scrap piece

of wood with drill bit that is equal to or slightly smaller than the OD

of the bushing.  If you have a drill press vise, this step may not be

necessary.

2. Cut the wood in half bisecting the circle you just drilled

3. Insert bushing between pieces of wood and clamp (in drilled hole). 

Cutting the wood in half should have removed enough material to allow

you to clamp the bushing so it won't move, if not, sand away some of

the wood along where you just cut to allow it to clamp the bushing.

4. Locate a drill bit that is equal to the ID of the bushing, and insert

it into the drill press (hopefully it is a common size).

5. Put the clamped bushing assembly onto drill press table and crank

down the bit (while drill press is off) into the bushing to center the

clamped bushing assembly on the drill bit, then while the bit is

holding the assembly centered, clamp the the assembly to the table.

6. Release the handle and remove the bit, then insert the appropriate

reamer and ream away.  Theoretically, the reamer should be centered

perfectly (I hope).



If someone is brave enough to try this before I get to it, please let me

know how it works out. 



Cheers,

Brad Oliver

RV-7 | Livermore, CA

www.RV7Factory.com







[quote] ------

gerf(at)gerf.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 1:42 pm Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

It is worth getting this right - because you follow a very 

similar process in the fuselage kit for the control stick 

bushing.  I goofed mine up trying to use a regular drill bit in 

drill press.  The upshot is that my control stick wobbles 

around like a p**** in a bucket.  Needless to say I'll be 

re-doing the bushing shortly.



I think the idea behind the reamer in an hand drill is that the 

existing hole in the bushing will "guide" the reamer into a 

coaxial position, I think 



g



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 

 I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to 

 ream out the bushing. And I held it with a pair of pliars after 

 wrapping it with a cloth. I don't think I got it perfectly 

 centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt to slip in 

 nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it 

 on the Scotchbrite Wheel (fine).   I'm sure the ways suggested 

 would yield a perfect result, but I've seen nothing in the 

 operation of the bellcrank as installed to indicate I've 

 created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method. Of 

 course, the plane isn't flying yet.

 

 --------

 Bob Collins

 St. Paul, Minn.

 RV Builder's Hotline (free!)

 http://home.comcast.net/~rvnewsletter/

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=78236#78236

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


	


-- 

__g__



========================================================== 

Gerry Filby                                  gerf(at)gerf.com

----------------------------------------------------------

Bob Collins

Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 470
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 2:38 pm Post subject: Re: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

Sure, but I guess my point is, what is right? Like I said, I did it a quick way at the time -- I didn't have a drill press, nor a set of reamers -- and it came out OK and the control stick bushings came out the same way. As near as I can tell, there's no binding that's occurring, the bolt fits in snugly, but fits and everything seems OK.  I'd certainly be interested in how others - especially old-timers - have approached this part.

_________________
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/

jmsears(at)adelphia.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 2:54 pm Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

 	  Quote: 	
		  > Sure, but I guess my point is, what is right? Like I said, I did it a 

> quick way at the time -- I didn't have a drill press, nor a set of 

> reamers -- and it came out OK and the control stick bushings came out the 

> same way. As near as I can tell, there's no binding that's occurring, the 

> bolt fits in snugly, but fits and everything seems OK.  I'd certainly be 

> interested in how others - especially old-timers - have approached this 

> part.<<


	


I didn't have a lathe or reamers, either.  I put mine in a vice, started 

with a bit that just barely cut metal, and increased bits in size by a 

little on each drill pass until the hole was just big enough for the bolt to 

pass through nicely.  My process took several passes per bushing.  I also 

drilled out the weldment to allow the bushing to fit inside that.  So far, 

I've done this on three RVs with no problems.



Now, to add another twist, so to speak.  My IA buddy told me the preferred 

method for the bushing is to make the bushing stationary in the weldment and 

allow the assembly to rotate around the bolt.  That way, the bolt wears out 

instead of the weldment.  That's what I did in my first RV.  I did the more 

popular method of letting the bushing rotate in the last two.  Which is 

better, I have no idea.  It will probably take more than my lifetime to 

prove either out.  Both work smoothly; and, I guess that's the main thing.



Jim Sears in KY

RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)

RV-7A #70317  (Fuselage on hold due to pure laziness.)

EAA Tech Counselor

dan(at)rvproject.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 4:00 pm Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

Bob,



You done good.  Press on.



This is one of those items where obsessing over a clean hole is irrelevant. 

The stick/bellcrank rotates around the stationary brass bushing, AS PER 

PLANS (RV-7[A]).  The hole through the middle of the bushing can be ratty 

and burry and all that and it doesn't make a bit of difference.  If you can 

get a bolt through, you're done.



do not archive

)_( Dan



---

hooverra(at)verizon.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 5:21 pm Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

Brad,

    I have used your method many times prior to owning a lathe with one 

variation. Make the block longer about 4 x 1.5 x 3/4, cut the slot first 

and then clamp the slot closed. Now drill your hole = to the bushing OD, 

now when you un-clamp the block the  bushing will fit and can be clamped 

tight.  If the saw kerf is too wide just clamp it partially closed  

prior to drilling (a piece of thin cardboard helps). Now proceed as you 

describe.

    Good luck.



Ralph Hoover

RV7A (wiring)

rv8builder(at)earthlink.n
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 7:10 pm Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

I too, used a hand drill to ream out the bushings.  Except, I hand held the bushing while wearing a leather glove.  The bushings ended up looking decent considering the crude method!



Dale Ellis, building a RV-8 and 2 bids, one check-ride and 91 days from retirement

--

bo124rs(at)hotmail.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 4:21 am Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

Brad, , what you posted will work fine.  Reamer, drill bit, whatever will 

center itself good enough fo this application.  Drill, ream and move on.  

Don't spend excess money or lose sleep over this, it "ain't" much.



Dana Overall

Richmond, KY i39

RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"

O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4

http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg

http://rvflying.tripod.com

do not archive





[quote]From: Brad Oliver <brad(at)rv7factory.com>

Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com

To: rv-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: RE: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 14:24:15 -0700






I haven't done this yet, so I should probably just keep my head down and

my mouth shut, but it is a slow day at work.    Here is what I am

*thinking* of doing when the time comes, which should be very soon.  It

may seem convoluted, but it should only take a few minutes.  Please,

somebody tell me I am crazy, or shoot holes in my proposed method. 



1. On the the drill press, drill a small (3" square or so) scrap piece

of wood with drill bit that is equal to or slightly smaller than the OD

of the bushing.  If you have a drill press vise, this step may not be

necessary.

2. Cut the wood in half bisecting the circle you just drilled

3. Insert bushing between pieces of wood and clamp (in drilled hole).

Cutting the wood in half should have removed enough material to allow

you to clamp the bushing so it won't move, if not, sand away some of

the wood along where you just cut to allow it to clamp the bushing.

4. Locate a drill bit that is equal to the ID of the bushing, and insert

it into the drill press (hopefully it is a common size).

5. Put the clamped bushing assembly onto drill press table and crank

down the bit (while drill press is off) into the bushing to center the

clamped bushing assembly on the drill bit, then while the bit is

holding the assembly centered, clamp the the assembly to the table.

6. Release the handle and remove the bit, then insert the appropriate

reamer and ream away.  Theoretically, the reamer should be centered

perfectly (I hope).



If someone is brave enough to try this before I get to it, please let me

know how it works out. 



Cheers,

Brad Oliver

RV-7 | Livermore, CA

www.RV7Factory.com







 > ------

ghinman(at)mts.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:35 pm Post subject: Bell Crank Brass Bushing

To ream out the inside of the brass bushings , Insert the

  reamer backwards through the bushing , then insert the reamer in the drill

 chuck, pull the reamer through the bushing backwards.

 

   



I probably shouldn't admit this but I just used a hand drill to ream out the bushing.

And I held it with a pair of pliars after wrapping it with a cloth. I don't

think I got it perfectly centered.. it took a little work to get the bolt

to slip in nicely. And afterwards I cleaned up the outside by running it on the

Scotchbrite Wheel (fine).   I'm sure the ways suggested would yield a perfect

result, but I've seen nothing in the operation of the bellcrank as installed

to indicate I've created any sort of problem doing it via the fast method. Of

course, the plane isn't flying yet.



--------

Bob Collins



                 



-- 



George H. Inman

ghinman(at)mts.net

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