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tough or impossible floor pan rivets?

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CJohnston(at)popsound.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 10:39 am Post subject: tough or impossible floor pan rivets?

hey all - 



how has anyone handled the forward most outboard rivet on the F-1016C L/R floors?  i'm installing them, and i can't for the life of me see how to get either a pop rivet or a driven rivet in there.  very curious.  help!



cj

#40410

fuse

www.perfectlygoodairplane.net

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ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:40 pm Post subject: tough or impossible floor pan rivets?

G'day CJ,   

I installed machine screws/nuts/washers in those locations.   

cheers,  

Ron  

187 finishing   

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armywrights(at)adelphia.n
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 2:46 pm Post subject: tough or impossible floor pan rivets?

Unless you're planning on some pretty heavy pressure on that specific point

it'll do just as well to leave it out as mangle the pan and structure to get

a hole in there.  There seem to be enough rivets (and mechanical pressure)

holding the pan in place to worry on this one.  It really just holds the pan

there, no load bearing and no structural integrity.  As always Van's could

clue you in on the real engineering.



Rob

#392

Access Covers



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LarryRosen

Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 415
Location: Medford, NJ

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 1:39 am Post subject: tough or impossible floor pan rivets?

Here is one from the archives.

Good Luck

Hope yours comes out better than my mangled pop rivets.

Larry #356

--------------------------



This is bit of an old issue, but I recently won the battle against the 

"impossible rivets" on the rear seat pans and I thought I would share my 

method.

 

The forward-most hole is the problem because the front seat support gets 

in the way. I managed to set a solid rivet in these holes, but it took 

some trial and error. I ended up using a 12" piece of steel angle, with 

a hole drilled in one end to accept a 1/8" cupped set (I had to do some 

grinding on the end of the steel piece to get it to work out). I placed 

the cupped set on the rivet and blocked the aft end of the steel piece 

from the side panel with a piece of wood. Then I used a mushroom set in 

my rivet gun, placed it on the piece of steel as close to the rivet as 

possible and hammered away. I cranked up the PSI on the gun a bit. I 

used different pieces of wood to support the steel piece while I riveted 

to keep from scratching the floor and side panel aluminum.

 

As a bucking bar for all the floor pan rivets along the left and right 

sides of the fuselage, I used the long RV-10 bucking bar with a 2x4 

block taped in the middle (this gives you leverage against the outside 

skin for holding pressure on the back side of the rivets). It takes some 

adjusting of the size of the block, but once you get it right you can 

get through those rivets quickly. You might want to support the outside 

skin with something to keep it from denting as you're pushing on it.

 

Send me an email if you want to see a picture of the rivet set up.

 

Jim McGrew

RV-10 #134 - Just starting to wire fuse

 

 

 

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_________________
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
<http>

pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 9:02 am Post subject: tough or impossible floor pan rivets?

Larry Rosen wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Here is one from the archives.

 Good Luck

 Hope yours comes out better than my mangled pop rivets.

 Larry #356

 --------------------------



 This is bit of an old issue, but I recently won the battle against the 

 "impossible rivets" on the rear seat pans and I thought I would share 

 my method. 


	


Gives a new meaning to perseverance!  I've not seen where the rivet(s) 

are, so pardon the question.  What's so important about this particular 

hole that it HAS to be filled????  Just asking.

Linn

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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport
Guest

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 11:21 am Post subject: tough or impossible floor pan rivets?

I left mine open for better ventilation in the foot well area.....

-Mike 

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