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rleffler
Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680
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 Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:43 am Post subject: Some more newbie questions |
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For those that went the alumiprep, alodine, akzo prime (no primer war
discussion), what quantity of these should be initially ordered? Is the
shelf life long enough to order quantities for the entire aircraft?
Is there a better source for these other than Aircraft Spruce?
I understand that alodine can also be obtained in a powder form. Is it cost
effective for us in the quantities needed for the RV10? If so, where is a
good source to obtain the powder form?
What quantities and sizes of "oops" rivets should I order?
I'm also looking for recommendations on a spray gun to use for priming. I
don't have any experience with HVLP guns, so I am looking for what has
worked well for others.
Thanks,
Bob
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_________________
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler |
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Rick S.
Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Location: Las Vegas
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:47 am Post subject: Some more newbie questions |
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What I find the most interesting about the use of primer is that I see on
several web pages and on some of the parts where I actually primed, I did it
to a solid color. When I got my quick build fuse and wings, the primer they
shot looks more like overspray and not a solid, filled in color.
Consider weight when you use it.
JohnG
Do Not Archive
| Quote: | From: "Bob Leffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Some more newbie questions
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 08:42:01 -0500
For those that went the alumiprep, alodine, akzo prime (no primer war
discussion), what quantity of these should be initially ordered? Is the
shelf life long enough to order quantities for the entire aircraft?
Is there a better source for these other than Aircraft Spruce?
I understand that alodine can also be obtained in a powder form. Is it
cost
effective for us in the quantities needed for the RV10? If so, where is a
good source to obtain the powder form?
What quantities and sizes of "oops" rivets should I order?
I'm also looking for recommendations on a spray gun to use for priming. I
don't have any experience with HVLP guns, so I am looking for what has
worked well for others.
Thanks,
Bob
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 3:59 pm Post subject: Some more newbie questions |
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John, I forget what you used to prime but I'm using the same product
(Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash P60) as Vans uses on the QBs. Vans
says that the only difference is the gold tint on QB versus the green
tint on the product that is distributed in the US.
I just spent some time with my EAA Tech Counselor and he inspected
both my primed parts and the QB parts. He had no experience with this
product but observed that it appeared to have been applied by foam brush
on the QB and had more than adequate coverage even though it was
transparent/translucent and would look like overspray from a different
product. He immediately noted that some of my parts did not have
adequate coverage and we concluded I was applying it too lightly (you
could see a silvery color from the aluminum shining through). I had
been trying to keep it light and had lightened up the setup on my spray
gun after my first batch. Just sharing this FWIW.
I would note that the SW product would have to be applied very heavily
in multiple coats in order to be a solid color. While the 2 part epoxy
used at the Alexander Tech Center appeared solid even with relatively
light coats. My conclusion is that it would be very difficult to get a
solid color with the SW product used on the QB and I'm sure that it
would be very heavy. OTOH, it appears that some of the 2 part epoxies
will result in a solid color coat even when applied lightly and
correctly - and if applied too heavily too.
But I don't know what I'm talking about here. Just sharing.
John Gonzalez wrote:
| Quote: |
What I find the most interesting about the use of primer is that I see
on several web pages and on some of the parts where I actually primed,
I did it to a solid color. When I got my quick build fuse and wings,
the primer they shot looks more like overspray and not a solid, filled
in color.
Consider weight when you use it.
JohnG
Do Not Archive
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:17 pm Post subject: Some more newbie questions |
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| Quote: | From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Some more newbie questions
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 18:57:29 -0500
John, I forget what you used to prime but I'm using the same product
(Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash P60) as Vans uses on the QBs. Vans says
that the only difference is the gold tint on QB versus the green tint on
the product that is distributed in the US.
I just spent some time with my EAA Tech Counselor and he inspected both
my primed parts and the QB parts. He had no experience with this product
but observed that it appeared to have been applied by foam brush on the QB
and had more than adequate coverage even though it was
transparent/translucent and would look like overspray from a different
product. He immediately noted that some of my parts did not have adequate
coverage and we concluded I was applying it too lightly (you could see a
silvery color from the aluminum shining through). I had been trying to
keep it light and had lightened up the setup on my spray gun after my first
batch. Just sharing this FWIW.
I would note that the SW product would have to be applied very heavily in
multiple coats in order to be a solid color. While the 2 part epoxy used
at the Alexander Tech Center appeared solid even with relatively light
coats. My conclusion is that it would be very difficult to get a solid
color with the SW product used on the QB and I'm sure that it would be very
heavy. OTOH, it appears that some of the 2 part epoxies will result in a
solid color coat even when applied lightly and correctly - and if applied
too heavily too.
But I don't know what I'm talking about here. Just sharing.
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
>What I find the most interesting about the use of primer is that I see on
>several web pages and on some of the parts where I actually primed, I did
>it to a solid color. When I got my quick build fuse and wings, the primer
>they shot looks more like overspray and not a solid, filled in color.
>
>Consider weight when you use it.
>
>JohnG
>Do Not Archive
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 10:53 pm Post subject: Some more newbie questions |
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Opps sorry for that.
Your observations are exactly as I see it. I have not used the SW product,
but it does look completely different than the PPG metal primer I've used.
My QB has the greenish tint and it looks like you could see through it. The
PPG is solid in color as I have discussed. As you say it must be the
difference in the product appearence regardlesss of application thickness.
JOhn G.
| Quote: | From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Some more newbie questions
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 18:57:29 -0500
John, I forget what you used to prime but I'm using the same product
(Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash P60) as Vans uses on the QBs. Vans says
that the only difference is the gold tint on QB versus the green tint on
the product that is distributed in the US.
I just spent some time with my EAA Tech Counselor and he inspected both
my primed parts and the QB parts. He had no experience with this product
but observed that it appeared to have been applied by foam brush on the QB
and had more than adequate coverage even though it was
transparent/translucent and would look like overspray from a different
product. He immediately noted that some of my parts did not have adequate
coverage and we concluded I was applying it too lightly (you could see a
silvery color from the aluminum shining through). I had been trying to
keep it light and had lightened up the setup on my spray gun after my first
batch. Just sharing this FWIW.
I would note that the SW product would have to be applied very heavily in
multiple coats in order to be a solid color. While the 2 part epoxy used
at the Alexander Tech Center appeared solid even with relatively light
coats. My conclusion is that it would be very difficult to get a solid
color with the SW product used on the QB and I'm sure that it would be very
heavy. OTOH, it appears that some of the 2 part epoxies will result in a
solid color coat even when applied lightly and correctly - and if applied
too heavily too.
But I don't know what I'm talking about here. Just sharing.
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
>What I find the most interesting about the use of primer is that I see on
>several web pages and on some of the parts where I actually primed, I did
>it to a solid color. When I got my quick build fuse and wings, the primer
>they shot looks more like overspray and not a solid, filled in color.
>
>Consider weight when you use it.
>
>JohnG
>Do Not Archive
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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rleffler
Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680
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Some of my helpers dinged a rivet or two. I got plenty of them.