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EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:33 am Post subject: Questions Curing the Control bits. |
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Happy New Year Cums!
I am still lost in the endless sanding and dust of filling. Not too bad of a job actually. At times I think it might even be therapeutic!
Questions to the group.
1) It is my assumption that one should cure the epoxy of the control surfaces after the filling is completed?? Stands to reason since said material is also made of epoxy??
2) What about curing AFTER applying UV Smooth Prime? Yes? No?
3) Are you fine folk also bothering to cure the fuselage and the XS style wings? If so, Why?
Thanks in advance. If anyone is traveling close to the area and has a few hours of free time.......
Brian Skelly
Europa XS TriGear #A276
North Texas USA
You can see my build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
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astills(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:51 am Post subject: Questions Curing the Control bits. |
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Brian,
I cured mine after sanding, and then had to re cure after I painted. When
you cure...cure to 190 Deg's F and your's should be stable through the hot
summers. The summers here in Phoenix didn't like 160 Deg cures and the
alerons warped in the summer heat, hence, re cure. No I did not
cure the fuse but did the wings.( here in Phoenix I placed large "black"
plastic bags over wings,sealed, and let set out all day in the 115 Deg's
heat, and then
took back in in the evening after it cooled down. Haven't had a problem with
them.
Al Stills
N625AZ
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jimpuglise(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:33 am Post subject: Questions Curing the Control bits. |
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Al-
The plastic bag is a good idea. I should do mine also, probably using the same method. Did you put any means of monitoring the temp in the bag, and did you support the wings / ailerons in multiple places while they cured? Large plastic garbage bags shond like a good way to go.
Jim - A-283, Punta Gorda, FL
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astills(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 2:15 pm Post subject: Questions Curing the Control bits. |
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Jim,
Yes I supported the wings in the bags (didn't want any sagging) but did not
monitor temps in bags. I figured at 115 deg's ambient, in full sunlight
it got to be approx 160 in the (using my truck thermometer as a gauge) bags.
As for the flying surfaces, yes I did put a probe in the plywood tunnel I
built. I consulted a fiberglass expert
that I know about the warping of the ailerons and his suggesting was to take
to 190-200 deg's for 1 1/2 hr with the surfaces clamped for
straightness and then cool slowly, so that's what I did. Haven't had any
more movement in any of the surfaces since then. Here in Phoenix when
the temps get to 115 Deg's the tarmac temps can easily get to 150 degs and
160 degs in a enclosed hanger with no air movement, so cook all
your surfaces to more than you think, you'll need. It will save having to re
do later.
Al Stills
N625AZ
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte Guest
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Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 3:23 pm Post subject: Questions Curing the Control bits. |
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All
If you have foam wings and tail surfaces, (Classic) don't forget that
the foam is more sensitive than the resin. I once saw a flap inflated
like a balloon.
I don't know what the temperature limit should be, I would guess no more
than 55 deg C,
Neville, you know more than I about this?
Graham
Quote: |
Jim,
Yes I supported the wings in the bags (didn't want any sagging) but did not
monitor temps in bags. I figured at 115 deg's ambient, in full sunlight
it got to be approx 160 in the (using my truck thermometer as a gauge) bags.
As for the flying surfaces, yes I did put a probe in the plywood tunnel I
built. I consulted a fiberglass expert
that I know about the warping of the ailerons and his suggesting was to take
to 190-200 deg's for 1 1/2 hr with the surfaces clamped for
straightness and then cool slowly, so that's what I did. Haven't had any
more movement in any of the surfaces since then. Here in Phoenix when
the temps get to 115 Deg's the tarmac temps can easily get to 150 degs and
160 degs in a enclosed hanger with no air movement, so cook all
your surfaces to more than you think, you'll need. It will save having to re
do later.
Al Stills
N625AZ
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NevEyre(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:25 am Post subject: Questions Curing the Control bits. |
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Hi All,
Yes, Graham is correct, the temp' limit of all the blue foam components is about 55C, curing at higher temps than that, you are pushing your luck.It will refoam.
There is no need to post cure the premolded parts [ wings / fuselage] for structural reasons, but curing all filler to 55C will help prevent movement later.
Black bin liners left in the strong sunlight could push temps up higher than is safe on the foam components, you guys lucky to have sun at the moment [ remember I am stuck in Yorkshire !] do a ''car park check'' Put your hand on a white car that is in the sun.... cool to touch? Now put your hand on to a dark car, bet you will not be able to keep it on a black one for long? Try other colours [ note the correct spelling], you will see how the darker it is, the hotter it will be? [Silver gets hotter than you would think?]
Whatever way you chose to post cure the blue foam parts, ensure they cannot get warped. Clamp metal angle stock to the thin trailing edges, and where possible, leave them resting on the leading edge.
Good luck, send me a tin of sunshine!
Cheers,
Nev, [ cold and wet !]
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