bobair8(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 8:47 pm Post subject: Three Fat Wires on Starter Contactor Bolt: How? |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Folks,
I'm building a GlaStar with the battery behind the baggage compartment. I've run (2) 2 AWG cables from the firewall to the battery area. I intend to terminate the (8 AWG) "B" alternator lead on the battery side of the starter contactor as it is shown on Z-11. I also want to run another 8 AWG from the same starter contactor bolt to the fuse panel to avoid running another fat wire all the way to the back.
But the starter contactor bolt isn't long enough to capture three lugs with lock washer and nut. I could gain some room by putting a thinner nut next to the contactor body but I'm afraid to start wrenching on that nut for fear of screwing up the contactor internals. I have two possible approaches and am looking for comments or alternatives.
First, crimp the two 8 AWG wires into a single lug (I have a good crimper for big lugs and will fill the cavity with solder). The space on the contactor bolt will be tight but should be feasible. I could gain even more room by using a metal stop nut and eliminating the lock washer. Second, fabricate a short buss bar out of heavy gauge brass and attach that to the contactor bolt and fasten the three lugs to the buss bar. My concern here is properly insulating and securing the buss bar. Any shorts here and I'd have a flying arc welder under my cowling. Would that dippable plastic coating material (Plasti-Kote?) work? How about the fuseable silicon tape?
(I've already used an uninsulated piece of brass to tie my ammeter shunt into the negative side. The brass bolt through the "forest-of-tabs" also captures the ground strap to the engine crankcase and one end of the brass bar. The ammeter shunt is attached to the other end of the brass bar and my 2 AWG negative return cable is attached to the other end of the ammeter shunt.)
Unrelated question: Is Ultra Tef-Gel conductive? I've been using it on some electrical connections on the assumption that it is conductive. If it isn't, I've got some rework to do.
Best regards,
Bob
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