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John Ackerman
Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 130
Location: Prescott, AZ
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 Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:48 am Post subject: Baggage door channel |
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"The book" has you machine countersink the upper baggage door seal
channel for the platenut attach rivets, but it's very thin (0.025, I
think). I tried to squeeze a dimple in there with the separated dies
from my pop-rivet dimple, and just messed it up. Countersinking was
worse - when I tried to get deep enough, I enlarged the hole.
Here's an approach that works:
Drill #40 the rivet holes as instructed, but continue all the way
through the back of the piece. Enlarge the holes in the back to 9/64"
to pass the nail head of the pop rivet dimpler. Insert the nail a
little way, slip on the female die, and continue as usual.
FWIW
John Ackerman
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:10 am Post subject: Baggage door channel |
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Next tell us how you squeeze the rivets.
Do Not Archive
| Quote: | From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Baggage door channel
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 08:47:45 -0700
"The book" has you machine countersink the upper baggage door seal
channel for the platenut attach rivets, but it's very thin (0.025, I
think). I tried to squeeze a dimple in there with the separated dies from
my pop-rivet dimple, and just messed it up. Countersinking was worse -
when I tried to get deep enough, I enlarged the hole.
Here's an approach that works:
Drill #40 the rivet holes as instructed, but continue all the way through
the back of the piece. Enlarge the holes in the back to 9/64" to pass the
nail head of the pop rivet dimpler. Insert the nail a little way, slip on
the female die, and continue as usual.
FWIW
John Ackerman
|
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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John Ackerman
Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 130
Location: Prescott, AZ
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| Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:34 am Post subject: Baggage door channel |
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All joking aside, I'm thinking about enlarging the access hole a bit
more and driving solid rivets using a big drift punch as bucking
bar... I really don't want a Big hole back there, though. We'll see
when the replacement part gets here.
I used the original to verify the dimpling technique, may use it to
try to set a rivet or 2 for practice.
Comments, anybody? What am I missing?
John Ackerman
On Jan 29, 2007, at 9:09 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
| Quote: |
<indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Next tell us how you squeeze the rivets.
Do Not Archive
> From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Baggage door channel
> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 08:47:45 -0700
>
>
> <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
>
> "The book" has you machine countersink the upper baggage door
> seal channel for the platenut attach rivets, but it's very thin
> (0.025, I think). I tried to squeeze a dimple in there with the
> separated dies from my pop-rivet dimple, and just messed it up.
> Countersinking was worse - when I tried to get deep enough, I
> enlarged the hole.
>
> Here's an approach that works:
> Drill #40 the rivet holes as instructed, but continue all the way
> through the back of the piece. Enlarge the holes in the back to
> 9/64" to pass the nail head of the pop rivet dimpler. Insert the
> nail a little way, slip on the female die, and continue as usual.
> FWIW
> John Ackerman
>
>
|
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:51 am Post subject: Baggage door channel |
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I alterred the back side with a dremel tool to allow the access. Can't
remember whether I back rivetted or used rthe pneumatic rivetter. It's not
structural and anyone really wanting to get in is going to really get in no
matter what.
John G.
Do not archive
| Quote: | From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Baggage door channel
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 09:33:29 -0700
All joking aside, I'm thinking about enlarging the access hole a bit more
and driving solid rivets using a big drift punch as bucking bar... I
really don't want a Big hole back there, though. We'll see when the
replacement part gets here.
I used the original to verify the dimpling technique, may use it to try
to set a rivet or 2 for practice.
Comments, anybody? What am I missing?
John Ackerman
On Jan 29, 2007, at 9:09 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
>Next tell us how you squeeze the rivets.
>
>Do Not Archive
>>From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
>>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Baggage door channel
>>Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 08:47:45 -0700
>>
>>
>>
>>"The book" has you machine countersink the upper baggage door seal
>>channel for the platenut attach rivets, but it's very thin (0.025, I
>>think). I tried to squeeze a dimple in there with the separated dies
>>from my pop-rivet dimple, and just messed it up. Countersinking was
>>worse - when I tried to get deep enough, I enlarged the hole.
>>
>>Here's an approach that works:
>>Drill #40 the rivet holes as instructed, but continue all the way
>>through the back of the piece. Enlarge the holes in the back to 9/64"
>>to pass the nail head of the pop rivet dimpler. Insert the nail a
>>little way, slip on the female die, and continue as usual.
>>FWIW
>>John Ackerman
>>
>>
>>
>>
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LloydDR(at)wernerco.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:57 am Post subject: Baggage door channel |
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Blind rivets? As they are behind the striker plate?
No body will know if you do not tell them....oops
Dan
N289DT
--
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:40 pm Post subject: Baggage door channel |
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I just rememberred what I did about the countersinking for the nutplates. I
too felt that the material was too thin to countersink so what I did was to
make a piece of hardwood that fit inside the the channel. I thin clamped it
down so it would not move then drilled the #40 rivet holes and then
countersank them. The idea being that the holes in the hardwood keep the
countersinking bit alighned. There was no issue with the bit wondering and
the depth of the countersink did not blow out the hole.
I reshaped the back of the channel for the smallest die on the pnuematic
riveter.
It worked out great for me. Turn down the valve on the compressor hose so
the pneumatic goes slow because if you are out of alignment, you ruin your
part.
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