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Rotax 582 Start Current

 
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Guy Buchanan



Joined: 16 Jul 2006
Posts: 1204
Location: Ramona, CA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:04 am    Post subject: Rotax 582 Start Current Reply with quote

The short question is: What is the approximate start current for a Rotax 582?

Why do I ask? Because today I fried the shunt on my 30A ammeter. This
shunt operates in line between the battery and starter.

I've noticed lately that starting has been slower and I attributed it
to lower battery capacity. Today I checked the voltage at 13.1V, then
tried starting. I got three very slow turn-overs followed by a click,
then nothing. It turns out the click was the shunt separating. I've
got probably 100 starts on this system over the last year. I did a
resistance check of the starter across the "big" wires and got only
0.3 ohms. Is it possible the starter is shorted? How can I tell if
the starter is bad? Do I dare simply attach the battery to the
starter directly to see if it works? I could also simply by-pass the
shunt to see if it works, then I could use the start switch. I'm
concerned, however, that if the starter is shorted I could blow the
battery. Is that a possibility?

Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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dave



Joined: 22 Sep 2006
Posts: 1382

PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:17 am    Post subject: Rotax 582 Start Current Reply with quote

I would guess alot more than 30 amps .
And when cold even more as your gearbox oil is thicker.
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Tom Jones



Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 752
Location: Ellensburg, WA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 3:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Rotax 582 Start Current Reply with quote

Hi Guy, I have the instillation instructions for the Rotax two stroke electric starter. Believe it or not, it says initial draw is 200 amps, decreasing to approx 50 amps at 500 RPM. They emphasize using a good flexible multistrand #4 wire. Due to the high draw I suspect. These instructions do not include installing a link or fuse in the solinoid to starter wire.

Tom Jones


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torgemor(at)online.no
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 4:21 pm    Post subject: Rotax 582 Start Current Reply with quote

Guy,

The shunt should not be used between the starter and the battery, the
shunt must be installed between your main fuse (20 Amp?) and the bus bar.

In this way your ampere meter only show the flow between normal users
radio, light etc. and charging. If you actually is charging the battery a
little, you'll have a positive reading, but drawing to much give a
negative reading due too high load for your generator -so time to switch
off some extra load. Smile
Torgeir.

On Thu, 08 Feb 2007 20:04:04 +0100, Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com> wrote:

Quote:


The short question is: What is the approximate start current for a Rotax
582?

Why do I ask? Because today I fried the shunt on my 30A ammeter. This
shunt operates in line between the battery and starter.

I've noticed lately that starting has been slower and I attributed it to
lower battery capacity. Today I checked the voltage at 13.1V, then tried
starting. I got three very slow turn-overs followed by a click, then
nothing. It turns out the click was the shunt separating. I've got
probably 100 starts on this system over the last year. I did a
resistance check of the starter across the "big" wires and got only 0.3
ohms. Is it possible the starter is shorted? How can I tell if the
starter is bad? Do I dare simply attach the battery to the starter
directly to see if it works? I could also simply by-pass the shunt to
see if it works, then I could use the start switch. I'm concerned,
however, that if the starter is shorted I could blow the battery. Is
that a possibility?

Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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Guy Buchanan



Joined: 16 Jul 2006
Posts: 1204
Location: Ramona, CA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 6:22 pm    Post subject: Rotax 582 Start Current Reply with quote

At 03:15 PM 2/8/2007, you wrote:
Quote:
Believe it or not, it says initial draw is 200 amps, decreasing to
approx 50 amps at 500 RPM.

Tom,
Thanks. That's just what I was looking for. So I guess the
30 amp shunt's not going to work, eh? I wonder how it worked this
long! I'm sure glad it didn't decide to fail in the desert! Now it's
back to the drawing board for the ammeter installation.

Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.

Do not archive


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