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Strobes, part II

 
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 3:41 pm    Post subject: Strobes, part II Reply with quote

Bryan-
Yeah, they're pretty much in a completed airframe. My outboards are all wired for standard postion lights since I figured on just a belly strobe from the get-go. (re: earlier posting on my relief at not having to re-do my pitot tube for a Dynon EFIS.) I'm just trying to think far enough ahead to make the job as easy as possible.
Cut to the chase. My rear fuse is in the stage where I have as much access as I'll ever have, but not for long. I'm going with the belly strobe alone. Three questions:
1. Do I need any additional bracing?
2. Should I install the strobe unit before attaching the rear fuse top skin, or is access no big deal?
3. What's the best bang for the buck for a new belly strobe unit and power pack?
All input appreciated.
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Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
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Jaybannist(at)cs.com
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 4:45 pm    Post subject: Strobes, part II Reply with quote

Bill, Access depends a lot on whether you have the bottom access panel or not. The rear & middle top skins can't be installed until you have installed the baggage floor. Once that baggage floor and top rear skin are installed, the only access to the bottom of the fuselage behind the seats is through the openings behind the seats or through the large bottom access door. Either option requires some contortion, but you should be used to that by now.

Jay in Dallas
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"Bill Naumuk" <naumuk(at)alltel.net> wrote:

Quote:
Bryan-
Yeah, they're pretty much in a completed airframe. My outboards are all wired for standard postion lights since I figured on just a belly strobe from the get-go. (re: earlier posting on my relief at not having to re-do my pitot tube for a Dynon EFIS.) I'm just trying to think far enough ahead to make the job as easy as possible.
Cut to the chase. My rear fuse is in the stage where I have as much access as I'll ever have, but not for long. I'm going with the belly strobe alone. Three questions:
1. Do I need any additional bracing?
2. Should I install the strobe unit before attaching the rear fuse top skin, or is access no big deal?
3. What's the best bang for the buck for a new belly strobe unit and power pack?
All input appreciated.
do not archive

Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa


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Tim Juhl



Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 488
Location: "Thumb" of Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 5:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Strobes, part II Reply with quote

The type of belly strobe I had went into a ring that was bolted or riveted to the skin. A stiffener wouldn't hurt (unless it is really light) but at the very least I would mount it close to a cross member.

Tim


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georgerace



Joined: 25 Oct 2006
Posts: 788
Location: Albion, MI

PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:09 am    Post subject: Strobes, part II Reply with quote

Hi Bill:

Here are a some strobes for you to consider. www.aristuff.com has them.

Bright Star SR901C Clear Lens $49.00
Kuntzleman Strobe Double Wink KU001 $138.00
Illusion Strobe ILA25 $119.00

Several different styles to choose from.

George
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:02 pm    Post subject: Strobes, part II Reply with quote

Thanks, George, I'll look into it.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:17 pm    Post subject: Strobes, part II Reply with quote

Jay-
Based on everyone's input, I'm going to decide on a strobe and complete
the bracing, mounting holes, rivnuts/plates ASAP. Then the only contorting I
have to do is for the final installation. Don't think it's a good thing
having the glass and guts hanging out in the open while I'm jockeying
everything around the shop.
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Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
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