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Instrument panel

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wowens(at)darientel.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 3:13 pm Post subject: Instrument panel

I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up canopy 

fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel centers the 

ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone just put up with 

offset instruments?

Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long including the 

harness  (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of  the instrument panel and the 

bulkhead  is only about 9 inches. Do you  have to hack holes in the 

bulkhead.

Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios?



Wayne Owens

yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 3:50 pm Post subject: Instrument panel

Wayne:



My answer to your questions would be no and yes.  I had to move the  

braces about 5 inches to the right on the right side and about 4  

inches left on the left side.

I had to cut a hole in the bulk head to accommodate the radio stack  

and the glove compartment.  I then supported and braced the weakened  

areas with angle  aluminum.

I also used the larger  panel which was an inch or so deeper and made  

of thicker stock.  You can see my panel at steinair.com.



good luck --- it seems to take a bit of cutting and tweeking to get  

it right.



dave



On Feb 22, 2007, at 3:10 PM, Wayne wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I just clecoed the instrument panel and front cover on my tip up  

 canopy fuselage. It appears that the brace to the instrument panel  

 centers the ideal location for an attitude indicator. Does everyone  

 just put up with offset instruments?

 Also the radios in my current plane are about 11 inches long  

 including the harness  (SL 30 and SL 60). The space ahead of  the  

 instrument panel and the bulkhead  is only about 9 inches. Do you   

 have to hack holes in the bulkhead.

 Do Vans designers have broken necks? Do they use very short radios?



 Wayne Owens

jc(at)INFONET.COM.BR
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:59 pm Post subject: Instrument panel

Helo Wayne:

I´ve got this problem too. What I did was to cut a hole in the rear panel to fit the radio

and reinforced the panel with a frame made of 1/2" L beans.

The brace had to be cutted too, in order to install the airspeed in a simetric good position.

Another L reinforced was rivetted on the brace.

No problem , till now.

RV-9A

90997

flying

165 h

-- 

JC - Aracaju - Brasil

matthew(at)n523rv.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 4:41 pm Post subject: Instrument panel

Wayne,

  

 I did the modification to move the support ribs  over several inches to allow for a 'centering' of the  instruments.    It was a bit of work and I probably wouldn't do  it again.  Primarily because it puts that center instrument dead in line  with the support rib between the fw and subplanel.  On my panel, right  below the AH I have a KI-209A CDI that is fairly long and I had a helluva time  getting the connector attached to it because the wires couldn't come straight  into the back.  

  

 Personally, stick with the stock setup and just  offset the instruments a bit.  It may save you some headache down the  road.

  

 Matthew

RV-9A :: N523RV

www.n523rv.com

    [quote][b]

chenoweth(at)gwi.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:59 am Post subject: Instrument panel

Matthew,

 I think that's great advice - plan to follow  it.

 Bill

 Albion, Maine

 RV9 last third (I hope) of fuselage)

  

 [quote]   ---

bill(at)repucci.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 1:06 pm Post subject: Instrument panel

Gang,

  

 Moving  that rib is easy, very easy.

  

 Check  out the entries on this page: http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html,  starting at 1/9/06.

  

 FWIW, I did not install the rib to the right of my Dynon, only the  left rib.

  

 Another local builder (-7A) simply used a  small section of angle to attach the 1/2 rib in  place.

  

 Good luck,

 Bill

 www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html

  

  --

bill(at)repucci.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 1:15 pm Post subject: Instrument panel

Wayne,



Somewhere in the instructions they tell you that it is acceptable to cut

as many holes in that sub-panel as you need.



The trick is to support the radios and anything else that passes through

it.



This picture will give you a good idea of how I supported my radio and

transponder: http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/radio%20stack%202.jpg



FYI, I made every effort to mount as much of my gear on the forward side

of the sub panel so you wouldn't see it with the canopy up.  (I am

building a tip-up.)  Because of this, I have mounted everything with

plate nuts and cap screws.  Here is a picture of my Dynon blind encoder:

http://www.repucci.com/bill/instruments.html.  If you blow it up, you

will see the black cap screws holding it in place.



Another trick I did was to put plate nuts on the bottom of the ribs and

sub panel lip so I could use Adel clamps and cap screws to hold all the

wires in place.  Check out this picture:

http://www.repucci.com/bill/panel/ems%20wiring.jpg



Good luck,

Bill



--

aurbo(at)ak.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 6:22 am Post subject: Instrument panel

Bill, Wayne,



Bill, Great Photos and ideas. I have used many of your ideas in the wiring 

of my RV-9. I especially found useful the idea about the Adel clamps on the 

bottom of the ribs.



Many thanks,



Mike Ice

wiring done, slider canopy under construction



---

russra(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:28 am Post subject: Instrument panel

Wayine:  It's not the length of the radio it's the location in the

panel. Purchase the glove box and put it in.  That will give you good

experience on how to cut the hole.  Ron Russ EAA 286



--

bill(at)repucci.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:35 am Post subject: Instrument panel

Thanks Mike.



FYI - The reason I suggest using cap screws is so that they can be

easily removed in places you can't see to get a screw driver on a

Philips head screw.



I HIGHLY recommend this set from Sears:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purp

ose&pid=00947477000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes



Although the set does not come with a hex bit, it does accept standard

size bits, so you might already have one in your shop.



I have also elected to use stainless steel 8-32 cap screws for my fuel

tank covers.  By using this tool, the screws are very easy to insert and

remove.



Just another tip I thought I would pass along.



Bill



--

BAGSTERJR(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 7:40 pm Post subject: Instrument panel

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->  Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you  are talking about??  Thanks  Bill

 [quote]   ---

gbrasch

Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 866
Location: Arizona

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:06 pm Post subject: Instrument panel

Ditto for me too...



Glenn Brasch, Tucson, Arizona, KRYN.

RV-9A Finish kit #90623, 1953 Piper Tri-Pacer

Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles

http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/



--

_________________
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Owner, "Airport Courtesy Cars" Website www.airportcourtesycars.com

streiker

Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 13

Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:11 pm Post subject: Instrument panel

If you paste both halves of the link together in the URL line of the brower you’ll get the right page.  

         

  

From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM AGSTER

 Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 7:38 PM

 To: rv9-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: Instrument panel  

  

       

Sears link is not working, do you have a catalog # to reference the set you are talking about??  Thanks  Bill  

  [quote]    

---

_________________
Stephen D Streiker

aurbo(at)ak.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 7:39 am Post subject: Instrument panel

Wayne,



I put in the map box and ended up removing it. That sucker takes up a lot of 

panel space. Cutting holes in the sub panels is not that hard. Make some 

lines and fire up your die grinder with a cut off wheel and go for it.After 

you get the holes cut use some angle stock as a brace to reinforce where 

ever you cut.



Mike Ice



---

bill(at)repucci.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:04 am Post subject: Instrument panel

It  looks like the Sears site is down.

  

 I  think the part number might be: 00947477000

  

 However, to help  out I took a picture of my tool set and posted on my web site: http://www.repucci.com/bill/images/Craftsman%20Key.jpg

  

 Oh, sorry, wrong tool.   

  

 This is the correct one: http://www.repucci.com/bill/things/sears%20tools%202.jpg

  

 The bits are replaceable and the wrenches are  reversible.

  

 Hope that helps.

 Bill

  

 

 --

bill(at)repucci.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:18 am Post subject: Instrument panel

The  Sears site is back up.

  

 Go to  www.sears.com and enter in the part number  listed below (00947477000)  for details.

  

 Bill

  

  

 

 --

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