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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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 Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:10 am Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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Anybody have any problems setting these to .281 shophead diameter? I'm getting to like .260 before it seems to get work hardened at which point I don't want to overdo it.
I tried a few on less pressure at first (90psi) as well as a lot of pressure (130 psi) and either way it seems to get work hardened at about .260".
Thanks
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planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:48 am Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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Do the rivets you are using have a single small dimple in the factory head?
If so:
What is the hole diameter?
How long is the tail undriven?
How are you driving them? If using an air hammer, they should be driven in about 6-8 impacts. If driving them using a manual table riveter setup like the RV guys like then a larger mass hammer is the only way to reduce the number of impacts (that is why the various "X" values are available in rivet guns - they drive different size rivets with similar exposure).
Keep in mind that the design mechanical properties of the hard rivets are developed by the combination of the alloy and temper of the rivet, the diameter of the hole, the depth of the hole to be filled, and the amount of work hardening that occurs when you upset the .280" tail length into the .280" diameter shop head.
The mass of the bucking bar and the rivet gun setting are the driving variables. When you have everythign set at optimum you can set the rivets with 6-8 strokes of the rivet gun in a single burst. During that burst, you can learn to hear the hardness as the timbre of the impacts is raised as the head forms and the rivet work hardens.
When you say they are work hardening, Why? the shop head should be a right rectangular cylinder with a uniform bulge on the periphery - no taper or splits. If they are tapered or split, they are over hardened (usually caused only by underdriving due to too many light hits or the wrong alloy/temper of rivet).
The AC43.13 manuals have the "gospel" on diameter and geometry of the shop heads for driven rivets - as well as everything else needed to guarantee a known quality of instaled fastener.
[b][i]ashontz Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know. [quote][b]
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:53 am Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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[quote="planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co"]Do the rivets you are using have a single small dimple in the factory head?
If so:
What is the hole diameter?
How long is the tail undriven?
How are you driving them? If using an air hammer, they should be driven in about 6-8 impacts. If driving them using a manual table riveter setup like the RV guys like then a larger mass hammer is the only way to reduce the number of impacts (that is why the various "X" values are available in rivet guns - they drive different size rivets with similar exposure).
Keep in mind that the design mechanical properties of the hard rivets are developed by the combination of the alloy and temper of the rivet, the diameter of the hole, the depth of the hole to be filled, and the amount of work hardening that occurs when you upset the .280" tail length into the .280" diameter shop head.
The mass of the bucking bar and the rivet gun setting are the driving variables. When you have everythign set at optimum you can set the rivets with 6-8 strokes of the rivet gun in a single burst. During that burst, you can learn to hear the hardness as the timbre of the impacts is raised as the head forms and the rivet work hardens.
When you say they are work hardening, Why? the shop head should be a right rectangular cylinder with a uniform bulge on the periphery - no taper or splits. If they are tapered or split, they are over hardened (usually caused only by underdriving due to too many light hits or the wrong alloy/temper of rivet).
The AC43.13 manuals have the "gospel" on diameter and geometry of the shop heads for driven rivets - as well as everything else needed to guarantee a known quality of instaled fastener.
[b][i]ashontz Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know.
I'm using what Zenith specified, off the top of my head MS20470-AN-6-14, through two 1/4 inch bars and an .040 web and .040 spar cap angle for a total of 1/2 inch plus .080, so they should be the right length and all that. The riveter I'm using had no trouble setting the AN5s quickly. I believe the hammer is up to snuff.
Yes, I have that book too. Just wondering if anyone else had trouble setting these Zenith specified rivets.
The shop head looks correct too. Flat, no taper, square sides. It just seems to stop setting around .260 something. I tried going a longer time with the riveter on a few just as a test. I'm assuming they're work hardened at that point. I'm using my highest PSI (130- 140) setting from the get go too. The bucking bar is pretty substantial. In fact it's just a block of hardened steel about 4or 5 pounds.
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 11:04 am Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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[quote="planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co"]Do the rivets you are using have a single small dimple in the factory head?
If so:
What is the hole diameter?
How long is the tail undriven?
How are you driving them? If using an air hammer, they should be driven in about 6-8 impacts. If driving them using a manual table riveter setup like the RV guys like then a larger mass hammer is the only way to reduce the number of impacts (that is why the various "X" values are available in rivet guns - they drive different size rivets with similar exposure).
Keep in mind that the design mechanical properties of the hard rivets are developed by the combination of the alloy and temper of the rivet, the diameter of the hole, the depth of the hole to be filled, and the amount of work hardening that occurs when you upset the .280" tail length into the .280" diameter shop head.
The mass of the bucking bar and the rivet gun setting are the driving variables. When you have everythign set at optimum you can set the rivets with 6-8 strokes of the rivet gun in a single burst. During that burst, you can learn to hear the hardness as the timbre of the impacts is raised as the head forms and the rivet work hardens.
When you say they are work hardening, Why? the shop head should be a right rectangular cylinder with a uniform bulge on the periphery - no taper or splits. If they are tapered or split, they are over hardened (usually caused only by underdriving due to too many light hits or the wrong alloy/temper of rivet).
The AC43.13 manuals have the "gospel" on diameter and geometry of the shop heads for driven rivets - as well as everything else needed to guarantee a known quality of instaled fastener.
[b][i]ashontz Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know.
I'm using what Zenith specified, off the top of my head MS20470-AN-6-14, so they should be the right length and all that. The riveter I'm using had no trouble setting the AN5s quickly. I believe the hammer is up to snuff.
Yes, I have that book too. Just wondering if anyone else had trouble setting these Zenith specified rivets.
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planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 2:22 pm Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/Specs.htm
Hopefully,there was no offense taken from my comments earlier. Plese review the attached files. They were copied from the AC65-15A Airframe Handbook. These are the officially accepted hole diameter limits for the AN470AD and MS20470AD driven rivets. Since the rivets you refer to are 7/8" long we assume that the joint stack is 11/16" thick, clamped. If the hole for tat fastener were drilled with a 3/16" bit (0.188"ø) the rivet will be too long and not only will the rivet be difficult to drive with the requisite 1.5ø x 0.65d height shop head but teh strength will be somewhat substandard due to a lack of proper work hardening.
The weight for the bucking bars are also important as they directly contribute to the number of impacts needed to upset the shop head.
Again, none of my comments were intended to offend.
ashontz <ashontz(at)nbme.org> wrote:
[quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz"
[quote="planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co"]Do the rivets you are using have a single small dimple in the factory head?
If so:
What is the hole diameter?
How long is the tail undriven?
How are you driving them? If using an air hammer, they should be driven in about 6-8 impacts. If driving them using a manual table riveter setup like the RV guys like then a larger mass hammer is the only way to reduce the number of impacts (that is why the various "X" values are available in rivet guns - they drive different size rivets with similar exposure).
Keep in mind that the design mechanical properties of the hard rivets are developed by the combination of the alloy and temper of the rivet, the diameter of the hole, the depth of the hole to be filled, and the amount of work hardening that occurs when you upset the .280" tail length into the .280" diameter shop head.
The mass of the bucking bar and the rivet gun setting are the driving variables. When you have everythign set at optimum you can set the rivets with 6-8 strokes of the rivet gun in a single burst. During that burst, you can learn to hear the hardness as the timbre of the impacts is raised as the head forms and the rivet work hardens.
When you say they are work hardening, Why? the shop head should be a right rectangular cylinder with a uniform bulge on the periphery - no taper or splits. If they are tapered or split, they are over hardened (usually caused only by underdriving due to too many light hits or the wrong alloy/temper of rivet).
The AC43.13 manuals have the "gospel" on diameter and geometry of the shop heads for driven rivets - as well as everything else needed Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 3:56 pm Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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1. Yes, the correct rivets have a center mark.
2. For me, working diameter was more related to the length of the rivet
rather than the hardness. Don't know about an XL, but HDSs use different
length rivets. Predominantly one size, but I had to buy 1/4 lb of two other
lengths and use a couple depending on the overall thickness of the sheet
component stackups.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
---
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 4:25 pm Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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[quote="planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co"]http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/Specs.htm
Hopefully,there was no offense taken from my comments earlier. Plese review the attached files. They were copied from the AC65-15A Airframe Handbook. These are the officially accepted hole diameter limits for the AN470AD and MS20470AD driven rivets. Since the rivets you refer to are 7/8" long we assume that the joint stack is 11/16" thick, clamped. If the hole for tat fastener were drilled with a 3/16" bit (0.188"?e rivet will be too long and not only will the rivet be difficult to drive with the requisite 1.5?.65d height shop head but teh strength will be somewhat substandard due to a lack of proper work hardening.
The weight for the bucking bars are also important as they directly contribute to the number of impacts needed to upset the shop head.
Again, none of my comments were intended to offend.
ashontz <ashontz> wrote:
| Quote: | --> Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz"
[quote="planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co"]Do the rivets you are using have a single small dimple in the factory head?
If so:
What is the hole diameter?
How long is the tail undriven?
How are you driving them? If using an air hammer, they should be driven in about 6-8 impacts. If driving them using a manual table riveter setup like the RV guys like then a larger mass hammer is the only way to reduce the number of impacts (that is why the various "X" values are available in rivet guns - they drive different size rivets with similar exposure).
Keep in mind that the design mechanical properties of the hard rivets are developed by the combination of the alloy and temper of the rivet, the diameter of the hole, the depth of the hole to be filled, and the amount of work hardening that occurs when you upset the .280" tail length into the .280" diameter shop head.
The mass of the bucking bar and the rivet gun setting are the driving variables. When you have everythign set at optimum you can set the rivets with 6-8 strokes of the rivet gun in a single burst. During that burst, you can learn to hear the hardness as the timbre of the impacts is raised as the head forms and the rivet work hardens.
When you say they are work hardening, Why? the shop head should be a right rectangular cylinder with a uniform bulge on the periphery - no taper or splits. If they are tapered or split, they are over hardened (usually caused only by underdriving due to too many light hits or the wrong alloy/temper of rivet).
The AC43.13 manuals have the "gospel" on diameter and geometry of the shop heads for driven rivets - as well as everything else needed Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit. |
No offense taken, just explaning the situation I have. I just went by the rivets they specified. Just trying to figure out what the problem is (if there is really) given that I made it per their specs and used the rivet indicated and this is the result.
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:03 pm Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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| naumuk(at)alltel.net wrote: | 1. Yes, the correct rivets have a center mark.
2. For me, working diameter was more related to the length of the rivet
rather than the hardness. Don't know about an XL, but HDSs use different
length rivets. Predominantly one size, but I had to buy 1/4 lb of two other
lengths and use a couple depending on the overall thickness of the sheet
component stackups.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
--- |
Yeah, I several different sizes. This is the size specified for that hole with the thicknesses involved. Just wondering if I really have a problem on my hands or not. Talked with Dave Clay and he said he used to sweat each rivet size but his tech counselor said what he was getting was not a problem. Just looking for other opinions to corroborate. Last thing I feel like doing is either drilling out all of these rivets for the sake of another .020 - .030" shophead diameter if it's not REALLY necessary. Just getting opinions. I may go out there and try riveting the she-ite out of one in a test piece just to see what happens. See if it goes any further or if that's it. I have not observed any cracking or deformities. In fact the rivets look perfect, they're just not going any further. The shape is nice, just not expanding anymore, nor are they compressing anymore. They're like .030 high and .030 undersized in diameter when finished.
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:46 pm Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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Picture's worth a thousand words. Here's a few thousand words. Most come to about .262. A few are up to .274 as seen and a picture of one of the bad ones .249, plus a side shot of the rivets for inspection of the heads. I placed a rivet on top in the pix to see the shank of the original rivet (.187). The holes have been reamed to .1895.
I can go back and try hitting the not so good rivets again, I just don't want to work harden it too much and make it weak. Is it possible to heat treat them to get rid of some of the hardness, and them hit them again?
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 6:28 pm Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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For shits+giggles, try a slightly longer rivet. If you don't increase
your working diameter, the next thing is to check your bucking bar.
Awful hard to diagnose by remote control. Just trying to reason things
out logically. Got to be something screwy, because I set mine by hand. Not
perfectly the first time, mind you, but I didn't have to drill them all out,
just a few here and there.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
---
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planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:18 pm Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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They actually look good. I still suspect both of my earlier observations. The minimum hole ream size should be 0.191 for a 3/16 AD driven rivet so the slightly small bore will contribute to slightly tall shop heads.
What you have is grossly superior to the result of trying to drill out and replace the fasteners. They are probably within 5% of nominal mechanicals as is.
You can always go back and set them a little more - but they look as though you need a bigger gun or heavier bucking bar.
Keep in mind that this plane was designed to be built by amateurs - and CH is noted for making accomodations for the builders varying levels of skill.
Overall, I would not lose a lot of sleep over them. I haev seem many, many, many worse in virtually all manufacturer's products - Boeing included...
ashontz <ashontz(at)nbme.org> wrote:
[quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz"
Picture's worth a thousand words. Here's a few thousand words. Most come to about .262. A few are up to .274 as seen and a picture of one of the bad ones .249, plus a side shot of the rivets for inspection of the heads. I placed a rivet on top in the pix to see the shank of the original rivet (.187). The holes have been reamed to .1895.
I can go back and try hitting the not so good rivets again, I just don't want to work harden it too much and make it weak. Is it possible to heat treat them to get rid of some of the hardness, and them hit them again?
--------
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97524#97524
Attachments: Harleysville (SE) PA
Zodiac 601XL/Corvair?
[url=http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=49678/*http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL] Get your own web address.[/url]
Have a HUGE year through
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Ron Lendon
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 8:03 pm Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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I was having the same problem so I just hit them a couple more times. I used a hammer and a arbor press setup. You can see what I did between October and November in 2006 at mykitlog.com/rlendon.
What I did was make them come out within tolerance. Some needed a couple more smacks to get the height right. The holes were all reamed to the mean diameter of the tolerance.
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_________________
Ron Lendon
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
CH 601 XLB
N601LT - Flying
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:00 am Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I think I'll leave them and maybe try to set a few of them a little more with the air hammer. The hammer may be a little anemic. But the results overall was pretty consistent. The spring set up helped alot with that. Check my website for details on that. The whole assembly sat on about 6 springs which let the rivet shophead just kiss the bucking bar. No cumbersome handling of the assembly was needed to move the setup closer to the bar as the rivet was set, just push from underneath with two fingers at first to keep the manufacturers head flush when first riveting, then once it starts to set, just push down with the rivet gun and the springs did their thing. Like I said, out of 150+, only two got messed up and that was because I goofed up with the gun briefly, once not letting go of the trigger before pulling the gun away, and once having the gun set on high for the large rivets and then forgetting to set the pressure back down and going back to doing small rivets, the gun jumped right off the rivet head. Otherwise, the other 99% look as you see them.
When I messed around trying to make a homemade rivet squeezer I did shear a few rivets with that setup, so I know it doesn't take much to mess up a rivet, that's why I'm interested to know what's best at this point for these rivets. I agree, what I have is vastely superior to trying to drill them out. If I was going to do that I'd just rebuild the spar. Wouldn't be worth it.
I may try a longer rivet, but at the same time, the set I'm getting is slightly high as it is, so theoretically, it's the right size rivet seeing as how I have more to squash down and more to expand outward. The one pictured that's set at .274, is only slighty higher than the .5 x shank spec.
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Flydog1966(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 4:39 pm Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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In a message dated 2/26/2007 9:29:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, naumuk(at)alltel.net writes:
| Quote: | In fact
| Quote: | , they're just not going any further. The shape is
nice, just not expanding anymore, nor are they compressing anymore.
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do not archive
No matter how work hardened your rivets are,(or what size bucking bar your using) you should be able to flatten them puppies flatter than a pancake !
Do you have a regulator on your compressor? Turn it up more.
Same if there is a regulator on your gun.
Watch the regulator gauge as you drive a test rivet.Does the pressure drop to low?
Or just fer shins-n-grigles, take the gun,and test piece, to your local garage where they have a real compressor,and ask them if you can try it there. That is if your using one of those small tank "home" compressors. I'm not saying they wont work,I have used them just fine,but maybe your model will not.
I just can not believe that a good rivet gun,with adequate air pressure ,and flow rate, will not pound the
crap out of them.
Phil Day
701 scrap builder
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more 326657x4311227241x4298082137/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com" href="http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/1615326657x4311227241x4298082137/aol?redir=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eaol%2Ecom" target="_blank">AOL.com. [quote][b]
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 6:28 pm Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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[quote="Flydog1966(at)aol.com"]In a message dated 2/26/2007 9:29:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, naumuk(at)alltel.net writes:
| Quote: | In fact
| Quote: | , they're just not going any further. The shape is
nice, just not expanding anymore, nor are they compressing anymore.
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do not archive
No matter how work hardened your rivets are,(or what size bucking bar your using) you should be able to flatten them puppies flatter than a pancake !
Do you have a regulator on your compressor? Turn it up more.
Same if there is a regulator on your gun.
Watch the regulator gauge as you drive a test rivet.Does the pressure drop to low?
Or just fer shins-n-grigles, take the gun,and test piece, to your local garage where they have a real compressor,and ask them if you can try it there. That is if your using one of those small tank "home" compressors. I'm not saying they wont work,I have used them just fine,but maybe your model will not.
I just can not believe that a good rivet gun,with adequate air pressure ,and flow rate, will not pound the
crap out of them.
Phil Day
701 scrap builder
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Thanks for the tips. My compressor goes up to 150 psi and has about a 10 gallon tank. Not sure about the rating on the riveter, but it's a reall one, not some Home Depot cheapy. I thought about trying the bucking bar on the floor rather than the table. May make a difference.
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planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 3:16 am Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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if it is a wood frame floor it likely will do no good - still will recoil in the time frame of the rivet gun blow. The reccomended minimum weights for bucking bars related to the rivet diamet chart that I sent earlier deals directly withthis cause/effect and this is why in todays world you can buy tungsten bucking bars (if you are of the unlimited pocket sort!). http://www.johnston-tool.com/index.htm When you drive rivets in the conventional way with the gun in one hand and the bar in the other (or with a partner on the other side of the panel) you are exerting a counter force that is a supplement to the mass of the bar and allows the recoil to be managed to a greated degree.
ashontz <ashontz(at)nbme.org> wrote: [quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz"
[quote="Flydog1966(at)aol.com"]In a message dated 2/26/2007 9:29:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, naumuk(at)alltel.net writes:
| Quote: | In fact
> , they're just not going any further. The shape is
> nice, just not expanding anymore, nor are they compressing anymore.
>
|
do not archive
No matter how work hardened your rivets are,(or what size bucking bar your using) you should be able to flatten them puppies flatter than a pancake !
Do you have a regulator on your compressor? Turn it up more.
Same if there is a regulator on your gun.
Watch the regulator gauge as you drive a test rivet.Does the pressure drop to low?
Or just fer shins-n-grigles, take the gun,and test piece, to your local garage where they have a real compressor,and ask them if you can try it there. That is if your using one of those small tank "home" compressors. I'm not saying they wont work,I have Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit. [quote][b]
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 5:16 am Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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[quote="planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co"]if it is a wood frame floor it likely will do no good - still will recoil in the time frame of the rivet gun blow. The reccomended minimum weights for bucking bars related to the rivet diamet chart that I sent earlier deals directly withthis cause/effect and this is why in todays world you can buy tungsten bucking bars (if you are of the unlimited pocket sort!). http://www.johnston-tool.com/index.htm When you drive rivets in the conventional way with the gun in one hand and the bar in the other (or with a partner on the other side of the panel) you are exerting a counter force that is a supplement to the mass of the bar and allows the recoil to be managed to a greated degree.
ashontz <ashontz> wrote: [quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: "ashontz"
[quote="Flydog1966(at)aol.com"]In a message dated 2/26/2007 9:29:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, naumuk(at)alltel.net writes:
| Quote: | In fact
> , they're just not going any further. The shape is
> nice, just not expanding anymore, nor are they compressing anymore.
>
|
do not archive
No matter how work hardened your rivets are,(or what size bucking bar your using) you should be able to flatten them puppies flatter than a pancake !
Do you have a regulator on your compressor? Turn it up more.
Same if there is a regulator on your gun.
Watch the regulator gauge as you drive a test rivet.Does the pressure drop to low?
Or just fer shins-n-grigles, take the gun,and test piece, to your local garage where they have a real compressor,and ask them if you can try it there. That is if your using one of those small tank "home" compressors. I'm not saying they wont work,I have Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
The floor is concrete. My table is wood. I had no problem setting the AN5 on the table. The wood table may be the problem with the AN6s.
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 4:14 pm Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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Hey, guys-
Go back to the start of the string, I didn't say this!! I'm the one who originally figured the rivet was too short. When the poster said it was the correct length rivet, the only thing I could think of was the bucking bar wasn't stout enough.
I tried setting mine by hand using a wimpy piece of metal for backing and had the same problem until I went with a chunk of steel big enough to be an anvil.
I have enough stupid observations in the archives. I don't need help to become a legend- I can do it myself!!
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
[quote] ---
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ashontz
Joined: 27 Dec 2006
Posts: 723
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| Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 6:00 pm Post subject: Re: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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[quote="naumuk(at)alltel.net"]Hey, guys-
Go back to the start of the string, I didn't say this!! I'm the one who originally figured the rivet was too short. When the poster said it was the correct length rivet, the only thing I could think of was the bucking bar wasn't stout enough.
I tried setting mine by hand using a wimpy piece of metal for backing and had the same problem until I went with a chunk of steel big enough to be an anvil.
I have enough stupid observations in the archives. I don't need help to become a legend- I can do it myself!!
? ? do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
The bucking bar I have is pretty substantial, as is the table, even if it is wood, but the table may be contributing to not getting a full set on the rivet. I'll try it with the bar on the concrete floor.
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rickpitcher
Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 76
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| Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 9:21 am Post subject: Solid riveting spar - setting solid AN6 rivets |
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