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stick grips

 
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rosestar(at)sonic.net
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 7:56 pm    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

Has anyone made their own stick grips? I have been "shopping" and many
of the commercial brands seem expensive. Has anyone made some out of
wood, aluminum, leather, or bicycle handlebar tape? I have flown
Zodiacs with the Ray Allen G205 and the Ray Allen G3. The foams look to
wear quickly and plastics get very sweaty on hot days. I am looking for
an alternative. Any ideas?

Brad DeMeo
Zodiac XL N601BD


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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:35 pm    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

I decided to use ones from joy sticks for computer games. I haven't flown
with them put it seems like it will work. This is the one I chose: Item
number: 180109958458. Just so happens that the company sells grips for
aircraft also. I'm planning on covering them with leather.

Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
do not archive

[quote]--


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planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:03 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

where does that item number come from? I spoke with one of the owners of CH Products, makers of gaming and industrial joysticks ansd they hav 3 models of stick grip for full scale aircraft as well:

http://www.chproducts.com/oem/aircraft.html
raymondj <raymondj(at)frontiernet.net> wrote:[quote] --> Zenith-List message posted by: "raymondj"

I decided to use ones from joy sticks for computer games. I haven't flown
with them put it seems like it will work. This is the one I chose: Item
number: 180109958458. Just so happens that the company sells grips for
aircraft also. I'm planning on covering them with leather.

Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
do not archive

[quote]--


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p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 3:27 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

Hi David,

I took a look at the CH web site for stick grips. The aircraft grips
look very nice, but they only have 22 gauge wiring. I presume they
also only have switches to handle a similar current. This might be a
problem for some of the motors on the Zodiac. I know the flap motor
requires 15 amps which would call for something like 16 gauge wire.

If we use a grip like this it may be necessary to install relays to
control the larger current motors. This makes for a weight penalty
and a real potential failure increase.

Paul
XL fuselage


At 02:00 AM 4/24/2007, you wrote:
Quote:
I spoke with one of the owners of CH Products, makers of gaming and
industrial joysticks ansd they hav 3 models of stick grip for full
scale aircraft as well:

http://www.chproducts.com/oem/aircraft.html


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bill_dom(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:11 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

I’ve been entertaining the idea of making them out of fiberglass. First to make a plug with either wood or ceramic and then make a mold out of it. Use the mold to create two perfectly equal grips. The only concern is that it will need paint, and it might wear out with time.

William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami, Florida


Rosestar <rosestar(at)sonic.net> wrote:[quote] --> Zenith-List message posted by: Rosestar

Has anyone made their own stick grips? I have been "shopping" and many
of the commercial brands seem expensive. Has anyone made some out of
wood, aluminum, leather, or bicycle [quote][b]


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dredmoody(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:30 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

My experience with the Ray Allen products is that they are definitley intended to be used with relays which handle the higher current when needed. Not sure how much weight penalty that imposes.

Dred

---- Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> wrote:
Quote:
Hi David,

I took a look at the CH web site for stick grips. The aircraft grips
look very nice, but they only have 22 gauge wiring. I presume they
also only have switches to handle a similar current. This might be a
problem for some of the motors on the Zodiac. I know the flap motor
requires 15 amps which would call for something like 16 gauge wire.

If we use a grip like this it may be necessary to install relays to
control the larger current motors. This makes for a weight penalty
and a real potential failure increase.

Paul
XL fuselage


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demeo(at)sonic.net
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:42 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

Has anyone used Robbie Attaway's grips? They look great. He didn't
get much by way of business so he's got a few in boxes for sale in
different colors. Check out his website at Attawayair.com and look at
the interior pictures of the blue Van's he built. You'll see the grips
there. The grips are made of aluminum and look nice.

Brad

On Tuesday, April 24, 2007, at 06:08 AM, William Dominguez wrote:

Quote:
I’ve been entertaining the idea of making them out of fiberglass.
First to make a plug with either wood or ceramic and then make a mold
out of it. Use the mold to create two perfectly equal grips. The only
concern is that it will need paint, and it might wear out with time.
 
William Dominguez
Zodiac 601XL Plans
Miami, Florida
Rosestar <rosestar(at)sonic.net> wrote:



Has anyone made their own stick grips? I have been "shopping" and many
of the commercial brands seem expensive. Has anyone made some out of
wood, aluminum, leather, or bicycle

Bradford J. DeMeo

Attorney At Law
Estates and Trusts
565 West College Avenue
Santa Rosa, CA 95401
(707) 545-3232

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rickpitcher



Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 76

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:54 am    Post subject: Re: stick grips Reply with quote

rosestar(at)sonic.net wrote:
Has anyone made their own stick grips? I have been "shopping" and many
of the commercial brands seem expensive. Has anyone made some out of
wood, aluminum, leather, or bicycle handlebar tape? I have flown
Zodiacs with the Ray Allen G205 and the Ray Allen G3. The foams look to
wear quickly and plastics get very sweaty on hot days. I am looking for
an alternative. Any ideas?

Brad DeMeo
Zodiac XL N601BD


I used the Ray Allen "hat switch" for trim control. Yes, it requires a relay to handle the load requirements of the motor, all of the switches that I looked at require a relay.
I mounted it inside a plastic gearshift knob available at Pep Boys. I added 2 pushbuttons to the assembly: a red one on the thumb side to transmit and a black one on top to toggle radio freq's . I'll attach a picture, you can see the 3 switches on the stick and the position indicators just to the left on the panel. http://www.lightflyers.com/zpanel.jpg

Rick
N601ZR


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planecrazydld(at)yahoo.co
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:33 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

accurate comment Paul;
Since I have not yet gotten there, does the drawing set not use relays to control motors? I would have never even considered running power current through the switch.

Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> wrote:
[quote]--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz

Hi David,

I took a look at the CH web site for stick grips. The aircraft grips
look very nice, but they only have 22 gauge wiring. I presume they
also only have switches to handle a similar current. This might be a
problem for some of the motors on the Zodiac. I know the flap motor
requires 15 amps which would call for something like 16 gauge wire.

If we use a grip like this it may be necessary to install relays to
control the larger current motors. This makes for a Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out [url=http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;_ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM-]new cars at Yahoo! Autos.[/url] [quote][b]


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mtherr(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:35 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

I did...

I bought foam grips from Reid Tools and some chair leg
end caps from local hardware store. The PTT button
comes from a local surplus electronic store. Cheap,
simple and looks good.

http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/DCP01831.JPG

The PTT button is now a bigger red button.

Michel

--- Rosestar <rosestar(at)sonic.net> wrote:

Quote:

<rosestar(at)sonic.net>

Has anyone made their own stick grips? I have been
"shopping" and many
of the commercial brands seem expensive. Has anyone
made some out of
wood, aluminum, leather, or bicycle handlebar tape?
I have flown
Zodiacs with the Ray Allen G205 and the Ray Allen
G3. The foams look to
wear quickly and plastics get very sweaty on hot
days. I am looking for
an alternative. Any ideas?

Brad DeMeo
Zodiac XL N601BD


browse
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http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby

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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:09 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

Sorry, the item number is from eBay.

Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
do not archive
[quote] --


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dredmoody(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:34 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

I have never used the "hat" switch from Ray Allen but I have used their grip with a four button array for several years. The buttons are directly cabled to the Ray Allen trim servo annd require no intervening relays since the servos draw so little current.

Dred


Quote:

I used the Ray Allen "hat switch" for trim control. Yes, it requires a relay to handle the load requirements of the motor, all of the switches that I looked at require a relay.
I mounted it inside a plastic gearshift knob available at Pep Boys. I added 2 pushbuttons to the assembly: a red one on the thumb side to transmit and a black one on top to toggle radio freq's . I'll attach a picture, you can see the 3 switches on the stick and the position indicators just to the left on the panel. http://www.lightflyers.com/zpanel.jpg

Rick
N601ZR


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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:55 am    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

Quote:
I know the flap motor requires 15 amps which would call for something like
16 gauge wire.


The flap motor wiring may call for a 15 amp fuse (page 6-B-20 of the plans)
but the motor doesn't draw anything like that (remember that fuses protect
wiring). With no mechanical load I've measured it a 3-4 amps. Given the gear
reduction I don't think the flaps present much of a load to the motor. For
up to 5 amps you can use the Ray Allen panel-mounted rocker switch RS2-5
(not the plain RS2):

www.rayallencompany.com/products/switches.html

The push button switches in the RAC G2xx grips are rated to 5 amps and can
directly drive RAC's trim servos. The only time you need a relay deck is if
you want to control one servo with two sticks:

"The modern design G205 and G207 stick grips use four, flush fitting
pushbutton switches to control one or two axis electric trim. These SPDT,
momentary contact switches are rated at 5 amps. They can be wired directly
to Ray Allen trim servos, eliminating the need to wire relays in your trim
system when one grip is used. However, if two grips are used, you will need
either relays or a switch to transfer the control of trims from one grip to
the other."
www.rayallencompany.com/products/stickgrips.html

The "hat" switch in the G3xx grips are rated to 15 amps. The optional
surrounding switches have these ratings: push button - 2 amps (at) 28 VDC (so
they can switch more at 14 VDC), toggle - 5 amps at 28 VDC:

"The new G303, G305 and G307 stick grips feature four individual SPDT
momentary contact switches to control one or two axis electric trim. The
switches are triggered via a traditional 4-way "hat" type activator. These
switches are high quality, 15 amp Honeywell Microswitches specifically
chosen for their superior tactile characteristics. The slotted one or two
axis faceplates also adds to the very positive switching action."

"The four trim switches can be wired directly to Ray Allen servos,
eliminating the need to wire relays in your trim system when one grip is
used. However, if two grips are used, you will need either relays or a
switch to transfer the control of trims from one grip to the other."
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/stickgripsG3.html

-- Craig


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p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 12:48 pm    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

Hi David,

As far as I can tell the drawings are silent on wiring for the trim system. They do show a heavy switch and circuit breaker for the flap motor.

Let me also comment on another issue - the size of the flap motor switch. I feel if a 15 amp circuit breaker is required then a 15 amp switch is also indicated. If there is some sort of overload you want the circuit breaker to open the circuit rather than causing damage to an under-rated switch. I understand the no load current for the flap motor is considerably lower than 15 amps, but if there is some obstruction for the linkage or possibly a heavy load from excess airspeed on the flaps then the motor current will increase. Somebody who worked on the design decided 15 amps was a reasonable limit and I would rather respect that decision than try to second guess it.

Paul
XL fuselage


At 08:26 AM 4/24/2007, you wrote:
[quote]accurate comment Paul;
Since I have not yet gotten there, does the drawing set not use relays to control motors? I would have never even considered running power current through the switch.

Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> wrote:
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz

Hi David,

I took a look at the CH web site for stick grips. The aircraft grips
look very nice, but they only have 22 gauge wiring. I presume they
also only have switches to handle a similar current. This might be a
problem for some of the motors on the Zodiac. I know the flap motor
requires 15 amps which would call for something like 16 gauge wire.

If we use a grip like this it may be necessary to install relays to
control the larger current motors. This makes for a

[b]


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bryanmmartin



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1018

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:14 pm    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

Also make sure it's a 15A DC rated switch not 15A AC. There's not
much difference between AC current and DC current in the steady
state, but there's a big difference when you try to interrupt the
current. Breaking the DC current flow is harder on the switch than AC.
On Apr 24, 2007, at 5:47 PM, Paul Mulwitz wrote:

Quote:
Let me also comment on another issue - the size of the flap motor
switch. I feel if a 15 amp circuit breaker is required then a 15
amp switch is also indicated. If there is some sort of overload
you want the circuit breaker to open the circuit rather than
causing damage to an under-rated switch. I understand the no load
current for the flap motor is considerably lower than 15 amps, but
if there is some obstruction for the linkage or possibly a heavy
load from excess airspeed on the flaps then the motor current will
increase. Somebody who worked on the design decided 15 amps was a
reasonable limit and I would rather respect that decision than try
to second guess it.


--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.


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_________________
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive.
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craig(at)craigandjean.com
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:16 pm    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

The limit switches that come bolted to the flap motor (and are shown wired directly to the motor in 6-B-20) are marked with DC limits of "1/2 A 125 VDC, 1/4 A 250 VDC" (note linear derating at increased voltages). The markings on the switches inside of the RAC G3xx grip are the same. Both are classic Micro Switch parts.

I measured the current drawn by the flap motor with and without a load. Unloaded it draws about 4 amps. Lifting a 34 pound bucket of sand it draws about 4.5 amps.

-- Craig
[quote][b]


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amyvega2005(at)earthlink.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:36 pm    Post subject: stick grips Reply with quote

by the way to all that put the Bar B Que, great job, it was nice to get to know the other builders.

Juan Vega

--


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