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Heat shieding ideas

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eddiemoranii(at)yahoo.com
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Posted: Fri May 11, 2007 1:11 pm Post subject: Heat shieding ideas

Hi,  My exhaust stack is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling on the bottom.  I see a future problem there.  Yes I can cut a "little" off and still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too much......... but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put on the fiberglass there to keep it cool?  Metal?  Some type of filler?  Ideas?

   

  I did a couple of high speed taxis today and could never get to max power due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at 2200 rpm.

   

  Eddie Moran



  [quote][b]

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singleberry(at)hotmail.co
Guest

Posted: Fri May 11, 2007 3:17 pm Post subject: Heat shieding ideas

Eddie-  

   

Depending on the definition of “close”  there are several options.  I work for a composite airframe manufacturer and we successfully dissipate heat by the use of stainless steel sheet separated from the composite surface by a layer of fiberfrax (refractory ceramic insulation).  The shield stands about .3” from the surface of the composite once assembled, and extends beyond the heat source to aid in heat dissipation.  The sheet can be fastened or bonded to the composite at the edges to secure the fiberfrax insulation.  High temp rtv works well to seal the edges if it is kept at a reasonable distance from the heat source.  Aircraft spruce carries it, and it is relatively inexpensive.  

If the cowl is really close, and can’t afford to install thick shields, perhaps a ceramic fire paint (google search “fire paint” or “fire free”) would provide the insulation needed.  I am familiar with the use of Ocean Fire Retardant #447 2-part epoxy, and it works quite well.  

   

Cheers,  

Jake Singleton        

  

From: owner-m14pengines-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eddie Moran

 Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:11 PM

 To: m14pengines-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Heat shieding ideas  

  

     

Hi,  My exhaust stack is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling on the bottom.  I see a future problem there.  Yes I can cut a "little" off and still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too much......... but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put on the fiberglass there to keep it cool?  Metal?  Some type of filler?  Ideas?  

    

   

    

I did a couple of high speed taxis today and could never get to max power due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at 2200 rpm.  

    

   

    

Eddie Moran  

  

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       [quote][b]

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eddiemoranii(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Fri May 11, 2007 4:42 pm Post subject: Heat shieding ideas

Jake, thanks.  

   

  It is pretty close.  I would estimate 1/4" or so.  I will look into the ceramic fire paint.

   

  That might work better than the other option for two reasons.  First the cowl is "really close" and second...........I have no idea what you were talking about in the first option.

   

   

   

  Thanks again,

  Eddie



Jake Singleton <singleberry(at)hotmail.com> wrote:

  [quote]      v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}  o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}  w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}  shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}                Eddie-<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

   

  Depending on the definition of “close”  there are several options.  I work for a composite airframe manufacturer and we successfully dissipate heat by the use of stainless steel sheet separated from the composite surface by a layer of fiberfrax (refractory ceramic insulation).  The shield stands about .3” from the surface of the composite once assembled, and extends beyond the heat source to aid in heat dissipation.  The sheet can be fastened or bonded to the composite at the edges to secure the fiberfrax insulation.  High temp rtv  works well to seal the edges if it is kept at a reasonable distance from the heat source.  Aircraft spruce carries it, and it is relatively inexpensive.

  If the cowl is really close, and can’t afford to install thick shields, perhaps a ceramic fire paint (google search “fire paint” or “fire free”) would provide the insulation needed.  I am familiar with the use of Ocean Fire Retardant #447 2-part epoxy, and it works quite well.

   

  Cheers,

  Jake Singleton

        

  From: owner-m14pengines-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eddie Moran

Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:11 PM

To: m14pengines-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Heat shieding  ideas



   

    Hi,  My exhaust stack is a tad too close to my fiberglass cowling on the bottom.  I see a future problem there.  Yes I can cut a "little" off and still maintain a good look, no, cant really move cowling too much......... but..........does anyone have an idea of something I can put on the fiberglass there to keep it cool?  Metal?  Some type of filler?  Ideas?



     



    I did a couple of high speed taxis today and  could never get to max power due to a 15kt. headwind that made the Moose want to get airborne at 2200 rpm.



     



    Eddie Moran



    

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DanHorton(at)elmore.rr.co
Guest

Posted: Fri May 11, 2007 8:10 pm Post subject: Heat shieding ideas

Eddie,

     Go here:

  

 http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1178942810-318-111&browse=engines&product=cowl_protector

  

 Dan

    [quote][b]

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