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dwight(at)openweave.org Guest
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Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 12:24 pm Post subject: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
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I am currently working my way slowly through the canopy frame fitting
exercise. It is going well (after a long delay due to a kitchen remodel
that took 3 months) but I'm not -quite- there, and want advice.
In general the fit along the split between the forward top skin and the
skin on the canopy frame is good. At least the amount of gap is good. As
I move out from the center, past where the 'goose-neck hinges' go, the
canopy frame skin starts to ride a little high. In the center I have it
shimmed so that it is intentionally a little high, of course, to clear
the forward skin. But along those curves leading down to the side of the
fuselage I need to either lower the canopy frame skin, or shim up the
forward skin. Either works for me.
On the left-hand side (facing forward) it is almost perfect. I have less
than 1/64th of an inch of gap and am quite happy. On the right-hand side
(again, facing forward) I'm not so happy. I have about 1/16th of an inch
of gap and I'd like to close that a bit.
A suggestion I got from Scott Risan was to shave down the canopy frame
bow along the front such that there is less distance for the skin to
cover, and thus pulling that problem edge down lower. I have done that
a _tiny_ bit, but before I shaved more off of the frame I thought I'd
solicit any other input from the collected wisdom of the list. If I can
close that 1/16 inch gap, I'll call it good enough and will be ready to
drill the hinges and move on.
I really really want to move on. So ... help! Anyone got any more
advice beyond what Scott suggested? If so, I'm all ears.
-- Dwight
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stevea(at)svpal.org Guest
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Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 9:31 am Post subject: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
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Dwight,
If I understand Scott's suggestion, trimming the canopy frame will
reduce the flange thickness......the flange the canopy skin rivets to.
You can probably get away with some trimming, the question is how much
trimming before running the risk of the frame cracking later.
My canopy frame has the same problem on the right side. It sits about
1/32 high (if I remember correctly.......the canopy is off the fuselage
at the moment). The left side and center fit flush. I have seen
similar conditions to varying degrees on some other tip up canopy RVs.
You could trim the canopy frame, and add a doubler angle on the inside
of the frame flange. The doubler angle rivets to the forward facing
canopy frame web, and the canopy frame flange/canopy skin joint. The
trick is to make a doubler angle that fits inside the canopy frame
channel and follows the skin curvature. It can be done, but will take a
bit of work
I would opt for shimming the forward skin rather than trimming the
canopy frame. Shimming sounds like the easiest way out of this
particular swamp (other than doing nothing and living with the
gap....but I understand how tough that is!) .
good luck,
Steve
RV-6A - tip up
Dwight Frye wrote:
Quote: | On the left-hand side (facing forward) it is almost perfect. I have less
than 1/64th of an inch of gap and am quite happy. On the right-hand side
(again, facing forward) I'm not so happy. I have about 1/16th of an inch
of gap and I'd like to close that a bit.
A suggestion I got from Scott Risan was to shave down the canopy frame
bow along the front such that there is less distance for the skin to
cover, and thus pulling that problem edge down lower.
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Dan Reeves
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 16
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Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 11:29 am Post subject: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
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Dwight,
My frame was also a bit high outboard of the gooseneck's on both sides. Not only was the canopy skin high in comparison to the front skin but the front end of the side rails also extended a bit beyond the sides of the fuselage. This of course was after all of the riveting was done. Everything lined up perfectly and was flush on the sides before riveting.
I ended up wrapping a tie-down strap around the entire front bow of the frame and ratcheted everything into alignment. The front corners of the frame were pulled downward and inward such that there is no gap in the skins up front and the front of the side rails are now flush with sides of the fuselage. Worked for me.
Another approach might be to drill out the rivets of the joining plate in the center of the frame and also from the tabs on the sides and replace / redrill these such that the sides of the frame are pulled inward / downward more.
Good luck,,,shims / filler may be the best way to go for small variances though. Just thought I'd present some other options.
Dan
RV-7A wiring
Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> wrote:
[quote]--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye
I am currently working my way slowly through the canopy frame fitting
exercise. It is going well (after a long delay due to a kitchen remodel
that took 3 months) but I'm not -quite- there, and want advice.
In general the fit along the split between the forward top skin and the
skin on the canopy frame is good. At least the amount of gap is good. As
I move out from the center, past where the 'goose-neck hinges' go, the
canopy frame skin starts to ride a little high. In the center I have it
shimmed so that it is intentionally a little high, of course, to clear
the forward skin. But along those curves leading down to the side of the
fuselage I need to either lower the canopy frame skin, or shim up the
forward skin. Either works for me.
On the left-hand side (facing forward) it is almost perfect. I have less
than 1/64th of an inch of gap and am quite happy. On the right-hand side
(again, facing forward) I'm not so happy. I have about 1/16th of an inch
of gap and I'd like to close that a bit.
A suggestion I got from Scott Risan was to shave down the canopy frame
bow along the front such that there is less distance for the skin to
cover, and thus pulling that problem edge down lower. I have done that
a _tiny_ bit, but before I shaved more off of the frame I thought I'd
solicit any other input from the collected wisdom of the list. If I Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A. [quote][b]
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dwight(at)openweave.org Guest
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Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 12:14 pm Post subject: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
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Yeah ... Scott also said that it would reduce the flange thickness, but
that it was pretty beefy material and could take some thinning without
harm. I wasn't able to pin him down on a specific amount, though. At
this point I don't think I'm even close to thinning it too much, but I
am going at it -very- cautiously.
As far as fixing the mis-match on the forward edge of the canopy skin
goes, I agree that shimming is the easy solution. The gap I'm having
trouble figuring out how to close (and it is hard to describe, maybe I
need a picture) is the gap between the fuselage side skin, and the
right-hand (looking forward) _bottom_ edge of the tip-up canopy skin.
This is the edge that runs from the front bottom corner of the tip-up
canopy skin along the side rails of the fuselage.
I hope to fiddle with this more tonight, but am looking for any insight
folks might have to offer. It may be the case that I'm not the FIRST to
say that they'll glad when they are done with canopy, but I will be.
Thanks for the input!!
-- Dwight
On Tue May 22 13:30:01 2007, Steve A wrote :
Quote: |
Dwight,
If I understand Scott's suggestion, trimming the canopy frame will
reduce the flange thickness......the flange the canopy skin rivets to.
You can probably get away with some trimming, the question is how much
trimming before running the risk of the frame cracking later.
My canopy frame has the same problem on the right side. It sits about
1/32 high (if I remember correctly.......the canopy is off the fuselage
at the moment). The left side and center fit flush. I have seen
similar conditions to varying degrees on some other tip up canopy RVs.
You could trim the canopy frame, and add a doubler angle on the inside
of the frame flange. The doubler angle rivets to the forward facing
canopy frame web, and the canopy frame flange/canopy skin joint. The
trick is to make a doubler angle that fits inside the canopy frame
channel and follows the skin curvature. It can be done, but will take a
bit of work
I would opt for shimming the forward skin rather than trimming the
canopy frame. Shimming sounds like the easiest way out of this
particular swamp (other than doing nothing and living with the
gap....but I understand how tough that is!) .
good luck,
Steve
RV-6A - tip up
Dwight Frye wrote:
> On the left-hand side (facing forward) it is almost perfect. I have less
> than 1/64th of an inch of gap and am quite happy. On the right-hand side
> (again, facing forward) I'm not so happy. I have about 1/16th of an inch
> of gap and I'd like to close that a bit.
>
> A suggestion I got from Scott Risan was to shave down the canopy frame
> bow along the front such that there is less distance for the skin to
> cover, and thus pulling that problem edge down lower.
|
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stevea(at)svpal.org Guest
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Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 4:03 pm Post subject: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
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Ahh, now I understand what edge we're talking about. How about using an
edge rolling tool or hand seamer to put a slight bend the the top skin
that overhangs the canopy frame?
Steve
Dwight Frye wrote:
Quote: | The gap I'm having
trouble figuring out how to close (and it is hard to describe, maybe I
need a picture) is the gap between the fuselage side skin, and the
right-hand (looking forward) _bottom_ edge of the tip-up canopy skin.
This is the edge that runs from the front bottom corner of the tip-up
canopy skin along the side rails of the fuselage.
|
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List |
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wgill10(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 8:06 pm Post subject: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
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Please post details…price, address, method of payment…and BTW, count me in.
Bill
--
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carlosh(at)sec-engr.com Guest
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Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 8:48 pm Post subject: Tip-Up Canopy Query |
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William Gill wrote:
[quote]
Please post details…price, address, method of payment…and BTW, count
me in.
Bill
--
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Mark Phillips in TN
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 431 Location: Columbia, TN
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