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Pucker Factor

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wjones(at)brazoriainet.co
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 4:01 pm Post subject: Pucker Factor

Hello group ,I have just started fitting my middle  top skin and will try very hard to not  get the dreaded pucker .This is  where it makes a compound bend with the forward side skin .ZAC instructions say  to back drill to 6-B-12-2 then drill to the longerons then to the tube frames  .then install this skin under the forward side skins .Has anyone in the group  got by without any pucker in this area .Is there a better sequence for this  task. Has anyone let the middle top skin go on top of the forward side skin .All  replies will be greatly appreciated .

 Wade Jones    South Texas 

601XL  plans building

Cont. 0200

   [quote][b]

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grs-pms(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 4:49 pm Post subject: Pucker Factor

Hi Wade:

  

 Building my 601HD, I dealt with the dreaded pucker  in that skin the best way I could.  I cut the middle top skin short and  used a separate triangular piece on each side to span the two  tubular frames.  I did this to get a better fit over those two frames, but  I think it also made the pucker easier to deal with. 

  

 Looking at several 601XLs at the Arlington Fly-in a  couple of weeks ago, I was struck by how much better it looks to put the side  skin over the top skin in that area.  One builder assured me that the  pucker is still there, you just don't see it.  I wish I had thought of that  solution.  If you put the side skin over the top skin you would have the  opportunity to notch the puckered top skin between rivets, which would  relieve the pucker somewhat and mostly hide the  remainder. 

  

 Just a thought, for what it's worth.  Good  luck with it, whatever you decide to do.

  

 George

 [quote]   ---

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larry(at)macsmachine.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 5:15 pm Post subject: Pucker Factor

Hi Wade,

The best way to avoid "pucker" is to make sure the bows have enough bend 

in them at the outboard 20% radius.  You need to have or add bend radius 

that will at least make

the last 3 inches of bow roll in to parallel with the fuselage side 

sheets. Only then will the last piece of top skin roll around the 

fuselage curve without difficulty. The last inch of

top skin and the top inch of fuselage must be parallel with no work by 

the pop rivets to hold an angle. Nearly all the problems with this area 

come from people having what looks like a fold-edge at the longeron and 

top skin.  I overlapped the top skins to the fuselage, then the forward 

fuselage sides over the rear and top skins.

http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/topbaggage.gif

http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/rearqtrbubble.gif

http://www.macsmachine.com/images/canopy/full/cnpybowsrearqtr.gif



Good luck,

Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com

wade jones wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Hello group ,I have just started fitting my middle top skin and will 

 try very hard to not  get the dreaded pucker .This is where it makes a 

 compound bend with the forward side skin .ZAC instructions say to back 

 drill to 6-B-12-2 then drill to the longerons then to the tube frames 

 .then install this skin under the forward side skins .Has anyone in 

 the group got by without any pucker in this area .Is there a better 

 sequence for this task. Has anyone let the middle top skin go on top 

 of the forward side skin .All replies will be greatly appreciated .

 Wade Jones    South Texas

 601XL plans building

 Cont. 0200

- The Matronics Zenith-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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xl(at)prosody.org
Guest

Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 9:12 pm Post subject: Pucker Factor

I put mine on top to keep the water out.

I didn't get much pucker - some, not much.

http://www.cleanh2o.com/633z/GeorgiaBelle.jpg



Joe E

N633Z (at) BFI

CH601XL, Jabiru 3300, Sensenich 49x64 wood prop

469 hours

http://www.cleanh2o.com/633z/

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007, wade jones wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Hello group ,I have just started fitting my middle top skin and will

 try very hard to not  get the dreaded pucker .This is where it makes a

 compound bend with the forward side skin .ZAC instructions say to back

 drill to 6-B-12-2 then drill to the longerons then to the tube frames

 .then install this skin under the forward side skins .Has anyone in the

 group got by without any pucker in this area .Is there a better sequence

 for this task. Has anyone let the middle top skin go on top of the

 forward side skin .All replies will be greatly appreciated .

 Wade Jones    South Texas

 601XL plans building

 Cont. 0200

 do not archive

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Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 3:16 am Post subject: Pucker Factor

I used 025 and not a pucker one plus it is a lot  stiffer.



Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL.com.

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wjones(at)brazoriainet.co
Guest

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:58 am Post subject: Pucker Factor

Thanks to all that replied to my request .I am  using .025 material and am well along the way . Thanks  again     Wade Jones    South Texas  

601XL plans building

Cont. 0200

 ---

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