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Mod 74.

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ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserv
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Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 1:01 pm Post subject: Mod 74.

Re Mod 74 and the addition of the backnut to the longer-threaded lift pin, 

the motorglider manual states, by way of comparison, that:



"The pin should be screwed into the backnut, not the nut screwed onto

the pin. Any

mismatch of the angle between the backnut and the rib will be taken out

with the Araldite pad that is

formed in the process. If you try to tighten the backnut, you may end up

with the nut acting as a

locknut, which will hinder removal of the pins if required at a later

date".



We are warned in the Mod 74 instructions that any future removal of

the rear lift pins will require digging again through the wing skin to

access the nut.



What is different about the retention of the nut in the motorglider wing

that allows simple removal of the pins? And what is the simple detail

that reliably captivates the nut? The latter would seem sensible.



I know that Bob H. had given this some thought, but had not included any

captivation of the nut.



Duncan McF.

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jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.a
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Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 1:51 pm Post subject: Mod 74.

Duncan and Fellows



I can't imagine why any locking of the nut is needed either; the pin is 

tight with Loctite and the nut will be encased in the flox mix so cannot 

turn. You would have to heat the pin to remove it. So I also say why the 

nylock or any locking at all needed on the nut?



At least if somehow you ruined the pin you could replace it without digging 

up the wing again.



So I will wait a bit and see what more is said before digging the holes!



JR (Bob) Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz



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ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserv
Guest

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 4:31 pm Post subject: Mod 74.

Agreed; added to which the pin is restrained from unscrewing by the pip pin, 

although it could be argued that a plain nut could vibrate off.



But the instructions don't call for the 'potting' of the nut. And the 

threads are to be coated with flox; so there would be fat chance of getting 

enough heat in to this to debond it without collateral damage, should the 

pin need to be moved.



I had in mind glassing-in the nut to the outboard side of the rib. At least 

then, only a small hole would need to be made to check that the nut had not 

moved, should it be necessary in future to remove the pin.



Duncan McF.

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ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserv
Guest

Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2007 12:46 pm Post subject: Mod 74.

Would some kind soul please measure for me the distance between the inboard 

face of W26 articulating lift pin socket and the centreline of the rotating 

barrel in W26. Then the distance from the barrel centreline to the outboard 

extremity of the W26.



The longer lift pins supplied with Mod 74 don't work with the earlier 

non-articulating W26's, unless the wing root is counterbored, which would 

weaken the very area that started all this modification in the first place.



I'm trying to work out whether the supplied longer lift pins (which have the 

pip pin hole drilled c.1/10" further inboard) would work directly with the 

later articualting W26, as a bolt-compatable swap without having to reset 

the fuselage sides.



Duncan McF.

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jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.a
Guest

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 2:41 pm Post subject: Mod 74.

Duncan

Has someone given you this info yet?

JR (bob) Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz



do not archive

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ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserv
Guest

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 12:53 pm Post subject: Mod 74.

Yes, thanks.



Rgds.,

Duncan

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