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Fuel Tanks - To Alodine or Not to Alodine - That is the Ques

 
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patrick.pulis(at)seagas.c
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 10:03 pm    Post subject: Fuel Tanks - To Alodine or Not to Alodine - That is the Ques Reply with quote



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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 11:19 pm    Post subject: Fuel Tanks - To Alodine or Not to Alodine - That is the Ques Reply with quote



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patrick.pulis(at)seagas.c
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 10:19 pm    Post subject: Fuel Tanks - To Alodine or Not to Alodine - That is the Ques Reply with quote

Could anyone please tell me the pro's and con's of alodining fuel tanks
prior to construction?

Is this warranted or a wasted effort that will create problems with
proseal adhesion or the like?

My initial thoughts are to alodine the tanks.

Many thanks in anticipation for your response.

Patrick Pulis
#40299

Adelaide, South Ausralia


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acs(at)acspropeller.com.a
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 2:21 pm    Post subject: Fuel Tanks - To Alodine or Not to Alodine - That is the Ques Reply with quote

Pat, the way I see it is the alodine is protection against corrosion and a
good basis for paint adhesion, neither of which should be required inside
your tanks.
The hard thing to do would be to NOT alodine the internal, especially if you
are using a dipping method.
Of course there's much more to alodining beyond your general question:
types, class, application, process control and testing and the question that
maybe should be asked is, given the type of chemical conversion coating that
is used, what is the consequence of any inferior application and avgas
contamination? "After application, the coating shall be continuous
and substantially free from powdery and loose areas" (MIL-DTL-81706B).
Done correctly, added protection, no problem.
John 40315

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sblankdds(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2007 7:38 pm    Post subject: Fuel Tanks - To Alodine or Not to Alodine - That is the Ques Reply with quote

Vernon,

I see it this way.... fuel is hydrophobic (does not like water), so hard to corrode the metal when it has hydrocarbons next to it most of the time. Also, if the tank is kept mostly full, there is little O2 for oxidation. The risk of any alodine reacting with some future gas product or coming off from a poor metal prep seems to be a greater risk vs any benefit it may provide. My 1952 C-170b has just Alclad aluminum in the tail cone and is still fine after 55 years (based in Florida, 1.5 miles from the ocean). How old are you???? I am 49, and figure on flying 20-30 more years... if lucky. The plane should out last me with no extra metal protection.

--
Stephen G. Blank, DDS # 40499 Building the tail cone finally!!
184 NW Central Park Plaza
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986

772-475-5556 >>> Cell
[quote][b]


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apilot2(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 7:10 pm    Post subject: Fuel Tanks - To Alodine or Not to Alodine - That is the Ques Reply with quote

Two points. Virtually all water contains some dissolved oxygen. Any water in the fuel will settle to the bottom and interact with the bare metal on the bottom. Stephen, if your 170 had the original magnesium oil sump on the C-145 or O-300, you would have seen this effect, because virtually all 170s with the Continental engine have corrosion pitting at the forward drain point, because of the angle the engine sits on the ground, and moisture in the oil settles there.
So, IMHO I'd either alodine, or use the cherry juice top coat for PRC across the entire inside of the tank surfaces, or both.
KM
ex-170 owner
On 9/27/07, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)> wrote:[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson < Tim(at)MyRV10.com (Tim(at)MyRV10.com)>

I'd agree that corrosion inside the tank probably isn't a very
big concern. That said, my Beech's tanks were alodined inside,
so I found no reason not to take the time to do the step on
my RV-10. Even though the vapor should keep the O2 down,
tanks tend to collect moisture when heat/cold cycled, so
rather than leave it, I did them. No biggie if someone doesn't
want to. But, I think those who are concerned that there would
be some issue with residue in the future if you alodine
are probably a little over-reacting. Even if the stuff did
come off because someone didn't rinse it well, it's going to
mix with 30 gallons of fuel, and it'll be so small an amount
that it would have no effect on anything even if it flowed
through the system. It won't flake in large flakes that would
plug a fuel filter, and there's no realistic way that if you
do a normal final rinse that you should have to worry about
a negative effect. You can always spray and wipe with a
rag a few times too when it's fully dried if you really want
to try to get all of it off.

Alodining can be an unnecessary process for some, and it's surely
not something that should be proposed as a "Gotta do" except in
some specific situations. but when done properly, in *most* cases
there is only good that can come from it.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
[b]


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