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making fuseable links

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CardinalNSB(at)aol.com
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Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:29 am Post subject: making fuseable links

Please critique this idea for making fuseable link for #20 wire (ammeter  shunt, for instance)

  

 Instead of soldering in a piece #24 wire at the end, what if I just  stripped a 2 inch "gap" and then carefully chisled out, perhaps half or so of  the strands.

  

 Is there a milspec of 20 gauge wire that uses the same strands as #24, so  as to maintain the flexability of the smaller wire gauge wire "link".

  

 Am I correct that the reason for splicing the link into both ends of the  protected wire is for physical strength, as opposed to crimping the link portion  to the appliance with only connection to be made to the protected wire?

  

 Question, in the drawings the insulating sleeve is looking "loose" over the  fuseable link, is this a necessary design element, or would a tight fitting  fireproof sleeve work as well?

  

 Thanks, Skip

  

  



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nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net
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Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 7:01 am Post subject: making fuseable links

At 10:27 AM 10/12/2007 -0400, you wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  Please critique this idea for making fuseable link for #20 wire (ammeter 

shunt, for instance)



Instead of soldering in a piece #24 wire at the end, what if I just 

stripped a 2 inch "gap" and then carefully chisled out, perhaps half or so 

of the strands.



Is there a milspec of 20 gauge wire that uses the same strands as #24, so 

as to maintain the flexability of the smaller wire gauge wire "link".



Am I correct that the reason for splicing the link into both ends of the 

protected wire is for physical strength, as opposed to crimping the link 

portion to the appliance with only connection to be made to the protected wire?



Question, in the drawings the insulating sleeve is looking "loose" over 

the fuseable link, is this a necessary design element, or would a tight 

fitting fireproof sleeve work as well?



Thanks, Skip


	


   Do some experiments and find out. What you propose

   seems feasible . . . the processes and materials

   depicted have been bench and field tested. If you

   have your own recipe for success to explore and

   offer to the community, we'd be pleased to know

   it. We can hypothesize a lot of variations on the

   theme but the proof of the pudding is in the

   tasting.



   Bob  . . .

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longg(at)pjm.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 9:12 am Post subject: making fuseable links

Why not just find and use a 20 AWG fuse link? Are we worried about

corrosion or some kind of electron acceleration over a 6" fuse link? For

that matter to make it really elegant, have a custom 20 AWG fuse link

made (or make it yourself) that is seamless between the shunt and the

load meter. Two less connections to worry about.





--

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klehman(at)albedo.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:34 pm Post subject: making fuseable links

I would suspect that such a "fuse link" would allow the wire immediately 

downstream of it to get hotter than the wire farther from the link. 

Basically we would be expecting some current to pass from the continuous 

strands to the broken strands and hope that the rest of the wire would 

share current equally in all strands from that point.  Any corrosion 

would further degrade that and I would expect the continuous strands to 

run hotter outside the link than we might like prior to the fuse link 

open circuiting.  I'd guess the risk is probably small but the wire 

insulation is not equivalent to the glass spaghetti that I have around 

my fuse link segments and I can't imagine any commercial product 

utilizing such a method. If I wanted to use this method I would still 

solder the point that transitions to all strands.



FWIW I found it easy to solder in fuse links and immobilize the solder 

joint with a few layers of heat shrink or silicone tape.



Ken



Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <nuckolls.bob(at)cox.net>



 At 10:27 AM 10/12/2007 -0400, you wrote:



> Please critique this idea for making fuseable link for #20 wire 

> (ammeter shunt, for instance)

>

> Instead of soldering in a piece #24 wire at the end, what if I just 

> stripped a 2 inch "gap" and then carefully chisled out, perhaps half 

> or so of the strands.

>

> Is there a milspec of 20 gauge wire that uses the same strands as 

> #24, so as to maintain the flexability of the smaller wire gauge wire 

> "link".

>

> Am I correct that the reason for splicing the link into both ends of 

> the protected wire is for physical strength, as opposed to crimping 

> the link portion to the appliance with only connection to be made to 

> the protected wire?

>

> Question, in the drawings the insulating sleeve is looking "loose" 

> over the fuseable link, is this a necessary design element, or would 

> a tight fitting fireproof sleeve work as well?

>

> Thanks, Skip

   Do some experiments and find out. What you propose

   seems feasible . . . the processes and materials

   depicted have been bench and field tested. If you

   have your own recipe for success to explore and

   offer to the community, we'd be pleased to know

   it. We can hypothesize a lot of variations on the

   theme but the proof of the pudding is in the

   tasting.



   Bob  . . .

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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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